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looks like water pump seal. $8 part, but takes a bit of work to replace.
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Feb 15, 2012 04:11
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jamal posted:looks like water pump seal. $8 part, but takes a bit of work to replace. A bit? Doesn't it require removal of the timing belt?
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Feb 15, 2012 04:16
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If I wanted a proper lighting setup for a bugeyes, I would need a projector housing + HID kit right? The only housings I can find look like this: Click for big Notice how the low beam is the projector, and the high beam is a standard reflector. For HID high beams, wouldn't both have to be projectors so I don't blind everyone? Or can some reflectors be made for HID's so the light isn't just scattered?
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Feb 15, 2012 05:10
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most hid setups use a halogen bulb for the high beam, usually with a reflector. the hid bulbs don't take kindly to being flicked on and off constantly. I think bi-xenons use a movable shroud to change the beam pattern. these guys would probably know best on how to get some hids in your housings: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/
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Feb 15, 2012 05:14
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daslog posted:A bit? Service manual says...Drain Coolant. Remove radiator fans + shrouds. Remove radiator outlet and heater hoses. Remove V-Belts. Remove timing belt. Remove automatic belt tension adjuster. Remove belt idler No. 2. Remove camshaft position sensor. Remove left-hand camshaft sprockets by using ST. Remove tensioner bracket. Remove left-hand belt cover No. 2. Remove glorious leaky water pump. What the hell is an ST? Service tool? Do I really have to buy it or can I fashion something that would work? Would it be worth doing anything else while I'm in there? Timing belt should only have about 10k miles on it.  I'm probably in way over my head - but I'm going to do it myself or wreck my car trying. 
NuclearFusi0n fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Feb 15, 2012 |
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Feb 15, 2012 07:51
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On EJ motors typically you replace the water pump as the same time as the timing belt and if you buy a "timing belt kit" it usually includes a water pump. As you and many others have seen it was a really really bad idea not to. ST is service or Subaru tool. I haven't done this job myself but I'd suggest looking on NASIOC to see if you need a Subaru tool. If you've never removed the crank pulley you will probably need the Subaru tool. Some people replace the oil pump "while they are at it" but generally this isn't necessary.
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Feb 15, 2012 10:42
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I recently got a 2003 WRX sedan with 98k on the odometer. One thing I've noticed is when I try to start it cold some mornings it hates to turn over, it will but it takes a second or two of cranking. I've seen people replacing their battery and spark plugs saying this helped, but do you guys have any quick solutions?
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Feb 15, 2012 13:22
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MrZig posted:If I wanted a proper lighting setup for a bugeyes, I would need a projector housing + HID kit right? The only housings I can find look like this: You could always go with the stock version. 02-03 JDM STi HID projector headlights with oem ballasts, rare black chrome, beautiful shape- $900
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Feb 15, 2012 13:41
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Yakattak posted:I recently got a 2003 WRX sedan with 98k on the odometer. One thing I've noticed is when I try to start it cold some mornings it hates to turn over, it will but it takes a second or two of cranking. I've seen people replacing their battery and spark plugs saying this helped, but do you guys have any quick solutions? Replacing the battery is a quick solution!  Sticking to "quick": clean the terminals and check voltage across the terminals with no drain on the battery before you shell out for a new one. If you want to push the boat out, check that the battery is charging when the engine's running to rule out a problem in the charging system itself.
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Feb 15, 2012 15:28
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Yeah, it sounds like your battery has gone to pot. I replace mine about every five years because the cold weather just slaughters them wholesale.
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Feb 15, 2012 16:05
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Saga posted:Replacing the battery is a quick solution! Yeah I was referencing more to the spark plugs, hopefully it's just the battery!
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Feb 15, 2012 16:06
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Yakattak posted:I recently got a 2003 WRX sedan with 98k on the odometer. One thing I've noticed is when I try to start it cold some mornings it hates to turn over, it will but it takes a second or two of cranking. I've seen people replacing their battery and spark plugs saying this helped, but do you guys have any quick solutions? So it cranks as soon as you turn the key, but has to crank over a second or two to fire?
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Feb 15, 2012 16:13
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chrisgt posted:So it cranks as soon as you turn the key, but has to crank over a second or two to fire? Yeah, pretty much. If I stop it, put it in ACC or ON and then try to start it, it'll turn over, rev kinda high and then drop to idle.
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Feb 15, 2012 17:31
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Yakattak posted:Yeah, pretty much. If I stop it, put it in ACC or ON and then try to start it, it'll turn over, rev kinda high and then drop to idle. When it's freezing cold out cars don't really like to be started. Oil is thick, initial lubrication is low, tolerances are increased, etc. No engine starts as well freezing cold as it does nice and warm.
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Feb 15, 2012 21:32
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AI Top Tip: Warm up your cars before a buyer comes over. 
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Feb 15, 2012 21:41
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Sockington posted:AI Top Tip: Warm up your cars before a buyer comes over. It works, too: I caught a guy coming out of his condo, pouring two quart bottles of oil into the car and then starting it.
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Feb 15, 2012 22:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:My dad gave me a tip for buying a used car, and that was to always arrive 30 minutes to an hour early for the appointment and wait for the owner to show up and try to start it. 8ender offered to do an oil change on the car before I came to pick it up. loving 8ender posted:If you're feeling brave I have no problem limping it down but I'd prefer you come and take a look, and well, buy it first before we attempt it. Hell I'll even change the oil before the trip down if you bring the supplies. Heh. Sockington fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Feb 15, 2012 |
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Feb 15, 2012 22:20
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So my beloved GL sorta bit the dust today. Replaced the rear struts and while I was back there I found really bad structural rust. Then a rear axle shat itself. Not a big deal, but it's stuck like all gently caress to the diff. And to top it all off the fuel tank leaks. loving hell  This makes me sad. Such a great car, sad to see it go like this.
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Feb 15, 2012 23:20
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chrisgt posted:So my beloved GL sorta bit the dust today. http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...onal&listType=1
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Feb 16, 2012 00:27
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jamal posted:most hid setups use a halogen bulb for the high beam, usually with a reflector. the hid bulbs don't take kindly to being flicked on and off constantly. I think bi-xenons use a movable shroud to change the beam pattern. I just did a full bi-xenon retrofit to my Legacy lights, since they don't make anything even super-ebay-aftermarket for my car. It was surprisingly easy and pretty entertaining. I talked with Caesar at Lightwerkz.net and ended up ordering some parts to do the assembly and cutting and fun things myself. Mine use one HID bulb with a movable little shroud in the projector assembly to raise and lower the beam cutoff for hi and low beams. I tried a set with an HID low and halogen hi and was really underwhelmed, but I might have gotten a crappy one I guess. Also, retrofitsource is awesome and has lots of pictures and diagrams and cool things like that.
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Feb 16, 2012 04:04
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Lord Gaga posted:On EJ motors typically you replace the water pump as the same time as the timing belt and if you buy a "timing belt kit" it usually includes a water pump. As you and many others have seen it was a really really bad idea not to. ST is service or Subaru tool. I haven't done this job myself but I'd suggest looking on NASIOC to see if you need a Subaru tool. The Crank pulley can be removed without the Special tool,you can just put a breaker bar on the socket and turn the engine over for just a moment
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Feb 16, 2012 04:25
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daslog posted:The Crank pulley can be removed without the Special tool,you can just put a breaker bar on the socket and turn the engine over for just a moment This didnt work on mine. Nor did a snap on impact gun.
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Feb 16, 2012 05:00
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get an accessory belt about 50% longer than the stock one. hook it over the ac/alternator bracket and then wrap it around the crank so it gets jammed under itself and you rotate the crank backwards. remove bolt with 24" breaker bar.
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Feb 16, 2012 05:36
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jamal posted:get an accessory belt about 50% longer than the stock one. hook it over the ac/alternator bracket and then wrap it around the crank so it gets jammed under itself and you rotate the crank backwards. remove bolt with 24" breaker bar. I just had my wife stand on the brakes with the transmission in reverse and e-brake set...
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Feb 16, 2012 05:50
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It's better to avoid using the clutch and crankshaft to hold the pulley in place.
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Feb 16, 2012 05:58
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jamal posted:get an accessory belt about 50% longer than the stock one. hook it over the ac/alternator bracket and then wrap it around the crank so it gets jammed under itself and you rotate the crank backwards. remove bolt with 24" breaker bar. Rotafix for cars. http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm ---  Am I correct in thinking that, after lining up all the marks with the previous timing belt still installed, once I pull the timing belt, the left hand (driver side) camshaft sprockets will rotate into their zero-lift (all valves unlifted) position without any interference? And the right hand sprockets will simply stay put in their zero-lift position? And on reinstallation, the LH intake camshaft should be rotated clockwise and the LH exhaust camshaft counterclockwise, one at a time. I remember reading a warning to not rotate them together. So then what is this:  #12 is the RH camshafts, #13 is the LH camshafts. tl;dr: Will the valves really poo poo themselves if I pull the timing belt without locking the camshaft sprockets together? Also, any tips for removing the LH camshaft sprockets without the special sprocket-holder tool and without making GBS threads up the valves? I'm scared now.
NuclearFusi0n fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Feb 16, 2012 |
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Feb 16, 2012 13:34
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No, the valves won't poo poo themselves. Just don't rotate the drivers side sprockets opposite of the way the FSM says to. Getting those cam sprockets off was a big pain in the rear end. Here's how I did it (after getting the "use the old belt" idea from Jamal): http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973186&userid=33033#post392757428
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Feb 16, 2012 14:47
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jamal posted:It's better to avoid using the clutch and crankshaft to hold the pulley in place. What about using the starter to pop the bolt loose? Rest the breaker bar against the inner fender with a towel under it. Edit: realize we aren't talking about the crank pulley
Sockington fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Feb 16, 2012 |
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Feb 16, 2012 16:11
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So m Legacy GT has been the best car I've ever driven but I have some quick questions: The car sits at close to 66,000 miles, when should I change the timing belt? When is very cold outside when I start it up, there is a weird clanking noise for about half a second and its all fine after that... but If I turn it on again it fires perfectly and remains like that for the rest of the day, any ideas? I want this car as reliable as possible so aside from a axel back, my plans are panel filter and Sti up pie (I want the turbo to last 100K miles), banjo bolt was clear, last check.
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Feb 17, 2012 02:18
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mulligan posted:So m Legacy GT has been the best car I've ever driven but I have some quick questions: quote:When is very cold outside when I start it up, there is a weird clanking noise for about half a second and its all fine after that... but If I turn it on again it fires perfectly and remains like that for the rest of the day, any ideas?
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Feb 17, 2012 02:19
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'd check the manual and then take a few thousand miles off of their estimate. My brother's IS350 F sport sound horrible on start up too, but it's a pretty horrible sound, good thing it goes away in less than a second and never comes back, I had a Legacy B4 twin turbo with arround 100,000 KMS and never heard that sound.
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Feb 17, 2012 02:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sounds like piston slap to me. Pretty common on Subarus, nothing to worry about. Yup, currently at 168k and it's been doing that since about 50k. I call it Subaru Slappin.
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Feb 17, 2012 02:37
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NuclearFusi0n posted:Am I correct in thinking that, after lining up all the marks with the previous timing belt still installed, once I pull the timing belt, the left hand (driver side) camshaft sprockets will rotate into their zero-lift (all valves unlifted) position without any interference? And the right hand sprockets will simply stay put in their zero-lift position? no, you don't need any of those tools or to hold the gears in place when you take off the belt, and all the valves will spring shut like you're thinking. with the crankshaft timing mark aligned, all the pistons are mid-way into the bores. so no valves can ever hit the pistons. with the passenger (right) cam gears aligned, all the valves are shut. nothing is hitting anything there. with the drivers side cam gears aligned, some valves are partially opened. So, if you were to rotate the upper cam into place, and then rotated the lower cam the wrong way, you would have intake valves hit exhaust valves and bend. with the pistons partway down the bores and all the valves closed, you could rotate any individual cam around 360 degrees without hurting anything. here is how I put on a belt: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU If you want a hand with it, you could try to get ahold John from gfunk's cousin Paul.
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Feb 17, 2012 02:58
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mulligan posted:My brother's IS350 F sport sound horrible on start up too, but it's a pretty horrible sound, good thing it goes away in less than a second and never comes back, I had a Legacy B4 twin turbo with arround 100,000 KMS and never heard that sound.
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Feb 17, 2012 07:28
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I just finished installing the Epic Engineering springs on my 2010 WRX. It lowered it about an inch, but the ride feels exactly the same as stock (except, obviously, when I'm cornering or accelerating/braking aggressively). Pretty happy with them so far!
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Feb 19, 2012 02:11
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Just came back from upgarage and found these wheels for somewhat (I think) cheap. Picked em up for around 400 dollars, but have no idea what model they are or what they are worth. I do know that they are 17" 5x100 Syms wheels with light scratches that will get repainted. I am somewhat familiar with Syms and their Subaru tuning (got these for my 2012 WRX) but cant find anything out there with more information. Can anyone shed some light on what these are? 
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Feb 19, 2012 10:42
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Monstertruck posted:Just came back from upgarage and found these wheels for somewhat (I think) cheap. Picked em up for around 400 dollars, but have no idea what model they are or what they are worth. I do know that they are 17" 5x100 Syms wheels with light scratches that will get repainted. I am somewhat familiar with Syms and their Subaru tuning (got these for my 2012 WRX) but cant find anything out there with more information. Can anyone shed some light on what these are? drat you are lucky, Im a big SYMS fanboy but their stuff is so rare.
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Feb 19, 2012 14:22
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I'm also jealous. I think if I ever went to Japan I would spend all of my time just buying wheels. There was a guy here who would import wheels (including Speedline and Rays) and had a giant warehouse showroom for them, but he never had anything in 17" when I just had my WRX and closed down before I got my OBS and was on the hunt for 15" and 16" wheels.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Feb 19, 2012 |
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Feb 19, 2012 16:59
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2 days after changing the oil the car stars normally now, no more piston slap in the mornings, I used Motul X-cess 10-40 (my weather is comparable to Arizona) full synthetic. Can anyone recommend a good e-tunner? I want a AZ/CA 91 octane map tuned for a mix reliability (fix the horrible stock tune) and minimal power gains with an axle back and panel filter.
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Feb 20, 2012 03:05
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mulligan posted:2 days after changing the oil the car stars normally now, no more piston slap in the mornings, I used Motul X-cess 10-40 (my weather is comparable to Arizona) full synthetic. Sounds like what you want is the Cobb stage 1 map.
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Feb 20, 2012 07:55
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