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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I had my car on jacks the other day, all four wheels off the ground. Ebrake was off. Stick was in neutral. My front wheels were spinning for a minute or two after I turned the car on. What is going on here? Is that the hill assist? The car was pretty level. 2011 STi with 3750 miles. Busted?
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Feb 22, 2012 02:08
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I am having a bear of a time getting this crankshaft pulley off. I tried the rotafix method and ripped an accessory belt in two places. I tried wrapping the pulley in a piece of the ripped accessory belt and then putting this chain clamp over it but I can't hold the chain clamp in place while I push on the breaker bar. Is it really that bad to put it in 5th, hold the brake, and let the drivetrain hold it in place?
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Feb 22, 2012 02:24
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NuclearFusi0n posted:I am having a bear of a time getting this crankshaft pulley off. I used a Kobalt Strap Wrench to remove the pulley on my EJ25: http://www.lowes.com/pd_253674-16878-50540_?PL=1&productId=1072405 Did the trick nicely.
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Feb 22, 2012 02:49
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Slow is Fast posted:My 02 looks loving awful, it just photographs okay from a distance. Yeah, I have huge scratches in the paint only visible from within 5ft from driving under tree branches. It looks like someone dragged a rake over my hood and roof. At a distance it looks totally mint though! 
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Feb 22, 2012 03:01
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ack! posted:I used a Kobalt Strap Wrench to remove the pulley on my EJ25: surprise surprise, it broke. I'll try the Lowe's one with an appropriate cheater bar. In the meanwhile, I'm going to try this method: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t113885-better-way-remove-your-crank-pulley.html when I find a long enough screwdriver. I wish I had some PB blaster and some bigger cheater bars =\ NuclearFusi0n fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Feb 22, 2012 |
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Feb 22, 2012 03:25
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What's AI think about group N mounts? I was thinking of spending my tax return on new engine/pitchstop/tranny mounts, as well as a Kartboy short shifter. All for my 2002 TS. Research online says it really helps improve the feel of the car & shifting. Are they all the same?
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Feb 22, 2012 03:42
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MrZig posted:What's AI think about group N mounts? I was thinking of spending my tax return on new engine/pitchstop/tranny mounts, as well as a Kartboy short shifter. All for my 2002 TS. Research online says it really helps improve the feel of the car & shifting. Are they all the same? I think other manufacturers just make solid mounts.
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Feb 22, 2012 04:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Thick gear oil can do that on the STIs sometimes. I knew a guy whose car would drive forward a little bit when starting it in neutral in -20'C. Wild. Thanks for letting me know. It would still be less disconcerting if it had been all four wheels. The car is maintained painstakingly (maybe to the point that I'll never buy new again) but did get a few days of autocross last year after break in. Thanks.
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Feb 22, 2012 04:16
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for an every day regular mount upgrade go with group n. for track/autox/competition car get cusco. pitch stop can be whatever you think looks coolest. I'm partial to kartboy but have to admit I have a cheap AFI/AP/FAT one.
jamal fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Feb 22, 2012 |
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Feb 22, 2012 04:38
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jamal posted:Yes, to use ans 02-03 strut you need a small spacer or some washers between the strut and top. When its all apart if you stick the top on the strut you'll see the problem. Turn in Concepts actually makes spacers that are the right size and is what anyone with an 04-07 who wants tokico d-specs needs to get. This is all irrelevant because kyb does make struts for that car. There is a catalog on the kyb website. Well, he's now gone out and looked at his struts just to make sure, and in fact he has some sort of weird inverted strut, which supposedly means he has an end of '04 production car which has '05 suspension. At this point I'm VERY confused. Anyway, replacing all four from Subaru or getting anything comparable fromt he aftermarket would apparently be so expensive that he's actually going to return the car to the dealer and get his money back. Not what I would have done, but then I buy cheap old beaters.
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Feb 22, 2012 10:35
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Is it really worth $60 for a pitch stop?
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Feb 22, 2012 10:49
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Lord Gaga posted:Is it really worth $60 for a pitch stop?
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Feb 22, 2012 16:03
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Describe the difference please. I am thinking about taking some plastic and my mill and just punching two holes in an aluminum bar and then putting some plastic bushings in. Group N: (Not sure if this one is also plastic) http://admotorsports.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_78&products_id=1168 Aluminum one for $70 shipped: http://www.wesellcarparts.com/store/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=9404
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Feb 22, 2012 17:49
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Sounds like a wise investment for $239.99! I'm really banking on the "IMPROVEMENT SHIFT FEEL" for the money 
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Feb 23, 2012 02:07
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Lord Gaga posted:Describe the difference please. I am thinking about taking some plastic and my mill and just punching two holes in an aluminum bar and then putting some plastic bushings in. there really isn't much to a pitch stop. the mount on the transmission is even slotted so there's quite a bit of leeway if it's not the exact right length. the best place to get oem/group n parts is from a place like subaru genuine parts or subarupartsforyou. I know a few people who keep breaking the stock plastic pitch stop while auto-xing (even the group n one, which just has stiffer bushings). Plus, if you have a bigger aluminum radiator it will decrease the clearance between the upper hose and the alternator pulley. I had a car that split a hose because of this even after I shortened it to provide what I thought was plenty of clearance. So yeah, a solid pitch stop mount is a good idea, but it should be combined with stiffer engine and transmission mounts, because otherwise most of the forces end up going into the firewall when it should be distributed between all four drivetrain mounts. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Feb 23, 2012 |
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Feb 23, 2012 02:25
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I have a Cusco trans mount cause it came with the clutch and flywheel I bought. Worth getting/making anyway? I will probably make it rather that buy it cause I mean...look at it. Hell I could just make ends and put threaded rod for an ultra cheap one. Anyone know what bolt goes through there? I feel like I could get away with two heim joints and some 1/2" steel threaded rod. What do you guys think?
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Feb 23, 2012 02:54
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Yakattak posted:Got this bugeye a week ago, I loving love this car: That's a beautiful old bugeye - I always think they look better wingless (particularly when they're boasting loads of power). If you're actually gonna track it, you'll probably want a better spoiler than the OEM option anyways. I would be really happy to find a WRX that looks that clean. Congratulations! Sockington posted:Sounds like a wise investment for $239.99! What on earth is that for?
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Feb 23, 2012 03:08
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McMasterCarr posted:2 each 59935K74 Metric Ball Joint Rod End M10 X 1.5 RH Fem Shank, 10mm Ball ID, 21mm L Thrd in the morning $8.65 each 17.30 Googling showed that the front bolt is an M10 which is the reason for the choice. Ideally I'd go with something larger and then put a 60A durometer bushing in it but they start getting expensive quick.
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Feb 23, 2012 03:47
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Sockington posted:Sounds like a wise investment for $239.99! The "Makes Headlights Brighter" is what does it for me. Plus the instructions say to connect it to the negative terminal of the battery and to the car's body. I can't believe it's that easy, and only costs $240!
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Feb 23, 2012 03:50
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Last night my 2008 sti with a stock engine and 30k miles started throwing a check engine code P2096 post catalyst fuel trim system too lean (bank 1). Do you guys have any insight on what the could be?
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Feb 23, 2012 15:47
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So I'm all but set on getting my 2011 STi tuned at Surgeline in a couple weeks. It will be a 92 octane tune on a stock motor and I'm going to insist that it's on the "conservative" side for timing and boost. I asked the guy if the Crawford AOS was a good idea. I expected him to say yes since I told him I'm willing to buy it and they stock them there at Surgeline, but he said it wasnt worth it or really going to be beneficial for a simple "stage 1" tune. He was saying they usually come in much further down the road. Even when I told him the car gets autocrossed and perhaps eventually a track day, it didn't change his mind. I'm pretty inclined to listen to his guy and his "less is more" philosophy, but what are you thoughts, Subaru goons?
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Feb 23, 2012 17:06
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I do not have an AOS on my stage-1 91 octane autocrosser '06 WRX. I have to top up the oil around 5-6k km on a change.
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Feb 23, 2012 17:08
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Does anyone have an opinion on the ISC Suspension N1 Coilovers? Import image has a great deal on them with free thrust bearings and custom spring rates for under 900. NASIOC seems to like them, but I wondered if anyone here knows anything.
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Feb 23, 2012 20:27
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same as all the other junk like megan, bc, stance, k-sport, fortune auto, etc. they're all made in the same place the same way but with different colors. it's probably hurting potential business but I refuse to sell any of that stuff.
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Feb 23, 2012 20:39
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jamal posted:it's probably hurting potential business but I refuse to sell any of that stuff. You don't want that business.
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Feb 23, 2012 20:49
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What about the RCE Tarmacs or KW setups? People seem pretty gay for them but I would have though good coil overs were more than 2400 dollars.
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Feb 23, 2012 21:41
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What about the RCE Tarmacs or KW setups? People seem pretty gay for them but I would have though good coil overs were more than 2400 dollars. I'm pretty gay for them too. It's probably my favorite stuff for a street/track car. For track use on an R-comp or slick you should have a little more damper and for that I prefer JRZ or the KW competition stuff, etc but that costs A LOT more. KW race doubles are almost $4k, 3-ways are around 8, and the JRZs on the time attack car go for $10k. Although one thing I don't like about KW is the springs they provide with them. For an 04-07 sti, you get an 8k (~450lb/in) front spring paired with a really soft progressive rear spring that maxes out at somewhere around 5k (280lb). They do this to make the car ride nicer but it really hurts performance and generates a ton of understeer if you go out to a track day. RCE fixes this problem by offering them with linear springs all around and uses revised valving more suited for performance and higher spring rates. Plus the T2s don't really cost any more than a Variant 3. They might not ride quite as nice as a V3, but it's still pretty good as long as you keep spring rates reasonable. 8-9k (450-500lb/in) is the most you should have with a street tire anyway. On a GD 7k/6k f/r is a good starting point, on a GR, which has different rear suspension geometry, I would go with 7/7 or 7/8. That's the other thing these cheapo coilover makers don't get. They offer the same front biased spring rates across all the cars, when the GR's rear motion ratio requires a spring at least as stiff as the front. Plus, they have much less shock travel than stock or a KW, so you have to increase the spring rates past what they should be to keep from riding on the bumpstops or bottoming out the damper. On a KW, you could go as low as 5k on the front of a WRX. if you tried that with megan racing coilovers, you'd end up with the shock nearly completely compressed at rest. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Feb 24, 2012 |
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Feb 23, 2012 22:02
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What about the RCE Tarmacs or KW setups? People seem pretty gay for them but I would have though good coil overs were more than 2400 dollars. They also last a long time. My rces are at 60k mi, and I've just started considering rebuild options.
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Feb 23, 2012 22:06
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So in other words, just spend $700 on the Koni Inserts or $500 on the GR2/AGX's? I mean for $850 I'm willing to experiment, post a trip report, and worst case sell them locally for enough to cover the Koni's.
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Feb 23, 2012 22:10
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toplitzin posted:So in other words, just spend $700 on the Koni Inserts or $500 on the GR2/AGX's yes. you can even build your own coilovers with these using ground control sleeves. I did this once for a guy with a WRX wagon who spent a lot of time offroad. Put 12" long ~250lb/in springs on some AGXes and lifted the car about 1-1.5." He loved it. Suspension Techniques (ST) is the one low cost coilover that I do like. KW has a galvanized steel housing that is cheaper than the stainless "inox" one, and the STs are the non-adjustable Variant 1 in this housing. They're around $1000 for Subarus, which is an amazing deal.
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Feb 23, 2012 22:22
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jamal posted:yes. you can even build your own coilovers with these using ground control sleeves. I did this once for a guy with a WRX wagon who spent a lot of time offroad. Put 12" long ~250lb/in springs on some AGXes and lifted the car about 1-1.5." He loved it. KW V1s are pretty cheap (I got quoted $1500 once) and they have a lifetime warranty, but it would kind of piss me off to have to keep taking them out of the car and returning to stock every summer when I return their rusted husks for replacement.
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Feb 24, 2012 00:22
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I think the heim joint and threaded rod pitch stop idea might have a problem in that I do not know what sort of side loadings there are on the pitch stop. It would only limit travel along the shaft...not that a plastic one or one with large bushings is really going to resist bending anyway. Anyway I was thinking about making something this:  It would be a Class 8.8 10mm threaded rod with aluminum ends and 60A bushings. Only problem is I'd need to make about 4 of them at $40 + shipping (Solidworks estimates a weight of about 0.5 pounds) each to recover the cost and time of making one. Would anyone want one?
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Feb 24, 2012 00:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I didn't realize this was an option (but then again I don't know much about coilovers in general). I love the spring rate on my RCE wagon springs but would love a stock ride height. Would it just be custom length springs at the RCE spring rate? The V1 housings are stainless steel and use composite spring perches/lock rings, so they should hold up just fine. In an area with a lot of salt on the roads I would probably consider finding some sort of a spray coating for them. Maybe just clearcoat or something on the lower parts of the housings.
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Feb 24, 2012 00:49
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Anyone have experience with the PIAA Forza Hybrids on 02-07 Imprezas? I had them on my 99 Maxima but they don't make a 17'' blade :maddowns:. Could I just get the 16s or the 18s and cut the blade an inch? Here are the blades I'm talking about : http://www.tirerack.com/wipers/detail.jsp?ID=1092&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Impreza+WRX+Sedan&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=
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Feb 24, 2012 01:54
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Yakattak posted:Anyone have experience with the PIAA Forza Hybrids on 02-07 Imprezas? I had them on my 99 Maxima but they don't make a 17'' blade :maddowns:. Could I just get the 16s or the 18s and cut the blade an inch? Here are the blades I'm talking about : I have the generic autozone version of those and they're fantastic: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s;jsessionid=D55A631DB7423C29A136D3D769F5CB52.diyprod3-b2c13?itemIdentifier=183510
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Feb 24, 2012 01:57
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jamal posted:I have the generic autozone version of those and they're fantastic: Those are similar to the SI Tech silicone ones, the hybrids are a tad stronger and well suited for winter.
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Feb 24, 2012 02:10
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jamal posted:The V1 housings are stainless steel and use composite spring perches/lock rings, so they should hold up just fine. In an area with a lot of salt on the roads I would probably consider finding some sort of a spray coating for them. Maybe just clearcoat or something on the lower parts of the housings. Same stuff as the V2s? Grease the poo poo out of the threads before winter, they'll be fine. My RCE T1s (V2s) did Minnesota winter and unlike the rest of the car pretty much show no signs of it.
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Feb 24, 2012 04:25
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Update: I posted a few pages back about my 04 Forester XT getting CELs p0011 and p0021, along with bad noises and some glittery oil. Turns out the motor was partially sludged, and the filter in the turbo oil feed line was clogged. Bye bye TD04. After having a shop drop the oil pan, flush oil through the motor a few times, bolt on a few parts, and throw it on the dyno, I'm left with this:  The parts: vf39, sti tmic, sti up-pipe, 3" tbe, 3 port bcs So far it's running perfectly, but my fingers are definitely crossed. Think it will keep going?
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Feb 24, 2012 04:38
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You could find a spray can of undercarriage oil spray and use that with a rag to wipe them down.
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Feb 24, 2012 04:38
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My A/C isn't working as of a day or two ago. It sounds like the compressor isn't being engaged. Any recommendations for trouble-shooting?
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Feb 24, 2012 19:11
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