|
drill that sucker down into the slab
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 02:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 13:48 |
|
|
BoyBlunder posted:I just checked and my safe only has mounting holes on the bottom, and it's sitting on top of carpet. You want to drill holes into something that is intentionally made to be hard to drill into? Good luck with that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 02:37
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:You want to drill holes into something that is intentionally made to be hard to drill into? Good luck with that. I'd be more concerned about the fire/water rating in case it has (had?) any.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 03:05
|
|
|
Alright, so I'll drill into the carpet/floor through the mounting holes. Should I cut the carpet first, or should I just drill the pilot hole through the carpet?
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 12:09
|
|
|
BoyBlunder posted:Alright, so I'll drill into the carpet/floor through the mounting holes. Slice the carpet with a utility knife first or the drill bit will grab carpet fibers and unravel them. If you're able to fold back the carpet a bit without unstretching the whole room, it's probably safer, but not entirely necessary.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 15:28
|
|
|
My wife and I just bought our first home about three months ago (Yay!). The second day we were there we found that there was an issue with the drain lines and sewer water was backing up into our basement (Boo!). Our finished basement (Double boo!) Fast forward a little bit, the sewer issue has been dealt with, and I cut most of the cost of clean up by tearing up all the carpet and padding myself. I also took out all the wooden tack board (or whatever you call the strips of wood that hold a carpet into place) going around the perimeter and most of the nails securing the wood to the concrete floor. So, right now I'm left with a concrete floor, topped with linoleum, and the plan is to eventually put carpet in there again. A few questions though. First, when I took up the nails that held in the tack board, in most of the spots a decent chunk of concrete came up with the nail (about the size of a marble, sometimes a little bigger). I imagine that those should be patched before putting down anything else, right? Second, what is the best way to get the linoleum off the floor? I'm having flashbacks to hammering and scraping from when I helped my parents redo their kitchen when I was a kid, and I was hoping that technology had advanced in the the past 20 years. Third, if I wanted to make this pretty nice, what's the best thing I could do down there, carpet wise? The original pad and carpet seemed like kind of a cheap, amateur job, but maybe that was just me being angry while I was tearing that poo poo up. It seemed really hard and unyielding to walk on, and the pad was pretty thin. I'm not expecting the same warmth as if it was carpet over wood on a first floor, but we want it to be a rec room eventually, and we want it to be as comfy as possible.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 22:34
|
|
|
Beware that old linoleum often had asbestos in it (or in the mastic that holds it down). You're better off just covering it up again than you are removing it. edit: and they're called tack strips, which is pretty close to what you called them edit 2: As to the holes, you can get a vinyl concrete patching material that works pretty well. You definitely want to patch anything that's not on the edge of the room as you'll notice it under the carpet. On the edge of the room where you won't be walking its not as big of a deal. Flash Gordon Ramsay fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Aug 12, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2014 23:17
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Slice the carpet with a utility knife first or the drill bit will grab carpet fibers and unravel them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 01:42
|
|
|
What safe is it? Because if it is a pos sentry safe bolting isn't worth going beyond the spec of the safe.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 14:47
|
|
|
Fighting a door that sticks. It rubs on the side with the knob, down forwards the bottom. Played around with the hinges and noticed this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-Sj29hY3II New hinge or is that split in the frame my issue?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:00
|
|
|
PuTTY riot posted:Fighting a door that sticks. It rubs on the side with the knob, down forwards the bottom. Played around with the hinges and noticed this: I wouldn't think that the hinge there would cause much trouble. It's kind of weird but whatever. Best guess is someone took multiple doors off their hinges at some point (e.g. to paint a large section of the house) and mixed the different components up when they put them back together again. Rubbing could be something as simple as there just being too much paint on that part of the door, but it's hard to say.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:11
|
|
|
I recently have done a complete remodel of my bathroom, and stripped everything down to the concrete, and am now rebuilding. I bought some Saniflex, a german waterproofing compound designed to go under tiles. It says to paint it in 1mm thickness with a notched trowel and smooth, OR if painting with a brush, multiple layers. I brushed it on very very thickly, but only had enough for one layer. I would prefer not to buy more if I can prevent it, because I want to start tiling, no, need to start tiling. My question, if every underlaying surface is poured concrete (no drywall or wood, it's an icelandic house, basically military spec by US standards) will a thickly painted layer of this, with properly installed tile and grout over top be sufficient?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:17
|
|
|
PuTTY riot posted:Fighting a door that sticks. It rubs on the side with the knob, down forwards the bottom. Played around with the hinges and noticed this: If the hinge is moving because one or more of the screws don't bite anything, you can pack some toothpicks into the old screw hole with a bit of wood glue, cut them flush, and then put the screw back into that. I live in an old house with old doors and have fixed a number of issues with them. In some cases the house settles and the frame goes out of square, sometimes there is paint built up on the frame, sometimes the door was swapped with another one in the house for some reason and doesn't fit quite right. My doors also tend to stick more in the summer when the humidity level is higher. If you have a block plane, you can shave a bit off the edge of the door where it sticks and that will usually fix it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
The screws are all biting, and are as tight as they will go. Sounds like my best bet is to do some sanding/planing. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:26
|
|
|
A few strategically-placed 3inch screws to pull the door frames tighter against the studs behind then solved all of my sticky door problems.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:30
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:What safe is it? Because if it is a pos sentry safe bolting isn't worth going beyond the spec of the safe. It's a 200lb stack-on safe.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 16:53
|
|
|
How can I fix this hole in my cotton shirt? Do I just get a needle and thread and start sewing over it? http://imgur.com/a/jme8U
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 17:11
|
|
|
Grouco posted:How can I fix this hole in my cotton shirt? Do I just get a needle and thread and start sewing over it? You could, but it will look like poo poo. You have to patch holes like this, and that will also look like poo poo. Buy a new shirt.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 17:27
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:A few strategically-placed 3inch screws to pull the door frames tighter against the studs behind then solved all of my sticky door problems. I actually think this might be the way I go, I was able to visibly move the frame just by pushing on it a little bit, enough that the door should clear now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 20:52
|
|
|
PuTTY riot posted:I actually think this might be the way I go, I was able to visibly move the frame just by pushing on it a little bit, enough that the door should clear now. Be careful when you do that. It's a good way to crack the trim around the door on either side if the trim has nails going into both the jamb and the wall. Also, you could look along the inside of that jamb and look for the old finishing nail holes that the original carpenter used to hang the door. Try tapping them back in with a nail set and see if that helps.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 21:10
|
|
|
I need advice on cutting 3"-diameter PVC pipe into straighter, cleaner rings (2" in length). My last project for my wife was a rack for her photo backdrops. It functions just fine, but I'd like to make the rings more symmetrical for her next installation.  As I was cutting with my miter saw, the downward force seems to flex the PVC, resulting in a cuts that were less than ideal. So instead of a perfect circle on both sides, they are slight ovals. Should I be using something else like a table saw and/or cutting thicker rings (3" in length instead of 2")? I would have experimented but the only saws I have are miter, bandsaw, circular and hand saw.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2014 21:41
|
|
|
I was on vacation...finally responding...thanks for the text.AFewBricksShy posted:As far as waterproofing systems go, I really like Custom's Red Gard. Out of all of the different companies that have some sort of waterproofing, it seems to be the easiest to use and doesn't require a lot of brand specific parts. Tape the corners with pretty much any mesh tape, roll out the liquid to the specified thickness, come back an hour later to do the second coat and you're set. They also have the pre-sloped shower floors as well as shower niches and stuff, same as schluter, but it lets you use modified thinsets, which is way better for the installation. AFewBricksShy posted:I generally don't like hardiboard for use in showers or in general, we've had issues with it in the past. Wonderboard or durarock are usually our preferred substrates, so Kripes is good to go, but we've installed wall tile over waterproofed green board in the past as well, or sometimes just over green board. Whatever they specify, we'll do, although I did warn them about that installation.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 04:54
|
|
|
Suave Fedora posted:I need advice on cutting 3"-diameter PVC pipe into straighter, cleaner rings (2" in length).
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 13:01
|
|
|
Suave Fedora posted:I need advice on cutting 3"-diameter PVC pipe into straighter, cleaner rings (2" in length). Or buy a pvc cutter. Second choice is Vanessa. Thank you auto correct , bandsaw is second choice. Either should allow you less than 1" cuts.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 14:17
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Or buy a pvc cutter. Second choice is Vanessa. Thank you auto correct , bandsaw is second choice. Either should allow you less than 1" cuts. I'd be concerned with a bandsaw causing the pipe to spin while you cut it, but if you have some way to brace the pipe so it can't turn then a bandsaw should work well. Something as simple as putting a C-clamp onto the end so you have a handle would probably work.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 15:20
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Or buy a pvc cutter. Second choice is Vanessa. Thank you auto correct , bandsaw is second choice. Either should allow you less than 1" cuts. The second choice should always be Vanessa.  I'll look up PVC cutters. I'm cost-averse right now so I'll try the hacksaw and bandsaw. Hacksawing will be slower, but if the cuts are nice I'll deal with it. The bandsaw will require me to cut up the PVC pole (10 feet) into 2.5' lengths. It's worth a shot. That's if I have the 3-inch clearance on the bandsaw. Flipperwaldt posted:I would do this with a hacksaw. I saw 18 teeth per inch suggested in a youtube video and that seems about right. By hand anyway, so you've got perfect control of the pressure you're applying. I would also cut very slightly beside the measured line and bring the pieces to exact length using sandpaper. You could also create a small piece of wood that fits inside the pipe exactly (at least in the direction you'll be applying pressure) so it supports it while you're sawing. And/or use thicker walled pipe. You have some intriguing ideas here. The sandpaper would be overkill, but I really like the idea of using a block of wood to keep the shape of the circle. I might even be able to use something like that with the miter saw, and just push down the block as I cut each successive ring.  Lowe's only had one type/thickness of 3"x10' PVC but I'll keep an eye out for thicker material.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
Get a single PVC end cap and pop it on prior to cutting on your current saw.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 16:33
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 18:48
|
|
|
Just get the pvc cutters. They're like $10 and give FANTASTIC cuts, every time. No burrs, nothing. I will never saw another piece of pvc so long as I live.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 19:51
|
|
|
I should use a wood-burning tool to put an image on a board before I stain it and not after, right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 20:44
|
|
|
Hello Sailor posted:I should use a wood-burning tool to put an image on a board before I stain it and not after, right? Yes, before. And then give it a light sanding to clean up the edges (at least that usually helps - give it a try on some scrap first).
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2014 21:08
|
|
|
So both my neighbours plants/trees seem to be growing through the fence into our side. Anyway to fix this? Gets pretty annoying to cut it down every once in awhile. One fence is a chainlink fence and the other one is semi privacy fence.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2014 16:15
|
|
|
You can ask your neighbors if they feel like cutting 'em down. Otherwise it's cut them back every once in a while.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2014 17:37
|
|
|
I didn't think this deserved a thread of it's own. It's just a quick fix to the problem of me not having a router table. Flush trimming on a table is as good as I dreamed it would be.   
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 04:13
|
|
|
I have a 70x42 frameless mirror. I had a new vanity and granite put in beneath and I guess the new vanity is higher, as the top of the granite trim to the bottom of my ugly light fixtures is exactly 42". Is there a way I (or a glass guy) could score/cut/whatever it to make it 70x36?
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2014 22:52
|
|
|
PuTTY riot posted:I have a 70x42 frameless mirror. I had a new vanity and granite put in beneath and I guess the new vanity is higher, as the top of the granite trim to the bottom of my ugly light fixtures is exactly 42". Is there a way I (or a glass guy) could score/cut/whatever it to make it 70x36? http://youtu.be/6SYDudIujRM
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 01:44
|
|
|
My house has two new american standard cadet toilets from 2012. Both have slow leaks and top off the tank every few hours. The flappers on both look flawless and have no burrs. The gasket is the same and the insides of the tank are nice and clean The fill line is not siphoning water away and is set up correctly. I tried lowering the float and the chain has slack. Any other ideas besides "lol lovely QC"?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 02:34
|
|
|
Check out the floats. Are they leaking and taking on water? Also check out the fill valves. It's possible that the rubber washer that seals the valve when the float rises is leaking, or just has crud on it that is keeping if from making a good seal. You will have to take the top off the fill valve, so turn off the water under the tank first.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
Nice. Just need to find something straight and 6 foot now....
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 02:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 13:48 |
|
|
PuTTY riot posted:Nice. Just need to find something straight and 6 foot now.... Most hardware stores and Home Depot/Lowes will have a rack of aluminum angle stock in ~8 ft lengths for $10-20.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2014 05:40
|
|
