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Kerro posted:Thanks for the advice. Yeah, you're right re: being first-time parents - I thought it was probably not likely to be an issue for too long plus it's not like there aren't existing hazards, but I wanted to try and accommodate that. I might just go with getting some stick on corners that they can pull off once she's a little bit older. Make it nice, and cut a nice bumper/edge trim for it that they can remove "once the danger has passed"
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Nov 7, 2015 04:09
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Picked this beauty up tonight for $25 off craigslist- A little elbow grease later... 
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Nov 7, 2015 05:03
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bimmian posted:A little elbow grease later... Nice. Gonna build some picture frames now?
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Nov 7, 2015 05:55
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Finished a little entrance bench to go next to my front door. Cherry & walnut.  
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Nov 7, 2015 15:39
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Finished a little entrance bench to go next to my front door. Cherry & walnut. That's really nice, I love the mixed colours - I've wanted to do a few projects with mixed wood, but I have no idea how to know whether it would be feasible to laminate different types together or if they are likely to split over time. From seeing other people's work it's clearly possible with some woods but not others but I don't know enough about it to know how you tell. I finished the first project that I made entirely in the home workshop (previously I'd just made stuff as part of a course using much nicer machinery than anything I could afford). Built from recycled rimu (a piece of which I included for reference in the photo) salvaged from house demolitions, of which there have been many in Christchurch due to the earthquake a few years back.  
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Nov 7, 2015 21:50
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Kerro posted:That's really nice, I love the mixed colours - I've wanted to do a few projects with mixed wood, but I have no idea how to know whether it would be feasible to laminate different types together or if they are likely to split over time. From seeing other people's work it's clearly possible with some woods but not others but I don't know enough about it to know how you tell. Thanks, I don't think laminating different species is too much to worry about as once the wood is kiln dried it's not going to move a crazy amount, but of course it also depends on the sizes you laminate. Large pieces will have much more movement than small pieces. If you want to get really serious about it you could calculate the movement using a calculator (http://www.woodworkerssource.com/shop/move.html), there's also plenty of books on the subject. Another thing to consider would be if one wood type moved a lot, would the glue and other wood provide enough strength the keep everything in check? Don't know if anyone has made a calculator or done in-depth research on that.
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Nov 8, 2015 15:55
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Thanks for the advice earlier; using a circular saw and four sacrificial 2x4s on the deck worked well for cutting plywood and acrylic. I used scrap wood and clamps as a guide. I'm looking to build a solar still, with a wood frame, and have a question about joints. There are a number of strong wood joints that involve interlocking, but most/all seem to require sophisticated tools and techniques, so I'm likely going to use butt joints. I'd like to be able to take apart the joints if possible; can I just drive screws into the joints with a drill? Pre-drill, or just have at it with the screw bit? I'm worried about tearing out the joints. What I'm thinking: 
Dominoes fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 21:25
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Dominoes posted:Thanks for the advice earlier; using a circular saw and four sacrificial 2x4s on the deck worked well for cutting plywood and acrylic. I used scrap wood and clamps as a guide. Glueless, screwed butt joints can do fine, depending on the number of screws and the weight they need to hold. Another option is to glue and screw a ledge to the inside of the project and lay the board on that.
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Nov 8, 2015 22:39
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The only child-safe furniture is made of foam rubber. Kids can brain themselves on floors and walls, anything smaller is just a different shape bruise. Make a copy in foam, they can have the real table later 
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Nov 9, 2015 10:52
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Finished a little entrance bench to go next to my front door. Cherry & walnut. This is really nice. I really like the walnut through tenons .
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Nov 9, 2015 14:57
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This turned out great!
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Nov 9, 2015 14:58
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Cakefool posted:The only child-safe furniture is made of foam rubber. Kids can brain themselves on floors and walls, anything smaller is just a different shape bruise. Make a copy in foam, they can have the real table later Absolute, irrefutable fact.
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Nov 9, 2015 15:13
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Update on the the stool from the weekend. I spent a lot of time with a rasp and a file shaping everything. I decided to cut an arced chamfer on the outside corners of the legs, then did a similar treatment to the other edges. A thinkin man would have did this before gluing it all together, but I love shaping walnut, so it wasn't too bad. The top cross members are two really short pieces. I didnt feel like dovetailing them, so I used my kreg jig. They were kind of a pain in the rear end to screw together, but it works.   The next thing I did was shape the bottom of the feet. It curves like this on two of the faces. I cut the bulk of the waste away with a handsaw, then cleaned it up with a file. Like I said before, a thinkin man would have did this with a bandsaw before hand.   Preshaping:   Cleaning up outside chamfer with a spokeshave file:  This shows most of the shaping close to finished:  After lots of sanding I got the first coat of oil on it:  One of my favorite details. Where the chamfer slightly exposes the end of the dovetail on the legs: 
mds2 fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 15:37
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mds2 posted:Update on the the stool from the weekend. I spent a lot of time with a rasp and a file shaping everything. I decided to cut an arced chamfer on the outside corners of the legs, then did a similar treatment to the other edges. A thinkin man would have did this before gluing it all together, but I love shaping walnut, so it wasn't too bad. Hell, that's elegant, a thinkin man probly would have ruined it by over thinkin.
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Nov 9, 2015 15:44
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Somewhat woodworking related. I have some floors that I'd like to re-poly. If I clean the floor with a cleaner (was thinking acetone or similar) to clean up any residue of cleaners or waxes. A few other questions: Not sure if it was oil or water based poly is it okay to put oil over water based.. it's my understanding that the "base" is the solvents that dry so if it's dry (6 months) then it doesn't matter. Am I okay with putting another coat on top or do I have to sand it all down to wood? Do i need to just sand to rough it up abut?
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Nov 9, 2015 15:57
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Acetone might be a bit strong and dissolve the old finish. I dont think it matters if it's water over oil based poly as it sounds like it's fully cured at this point. Poly doesn't stick to itself though, so you'll have to rough up the surface to get a mechanical bond. A lot of people use floor buffers with sanding screens to do this.
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Nov 9, 2015 20:58
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Has anyone here tried making their own riving knife/splitter? I got my saw used so it never came with one, and I'm thinking I should really get something going to increase safety. It hasn't been an issue yet, but I was resawing a lot of 2x4s recently and it can be a bit scary. I found some posts on users who have made their own, and it seems like a pretty good solution. I have a lot of old saw blades I could cut up to make one. My only worry is making sure I do it right. But it seems easy enough. http://lumberjocks.com/topics/63232 https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/power-tools/woodworking-discussion-forum/25492-r4511-low-profile-riving-knife-homemade Another option is just getting the microjig splitter. But in Canada they are $50 locally for the metal one. Seems pricey for a small plastic jig and some metal. They have a plastic version, but I feel like I'll break them often as I use my table saw as a bench a lot (small shop). Ordering online is cheaper but not by much once you count shipping, the terrible CDN dollar, and border fees. http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/ 3rd option is a Frank Howarth style splitter. This would be fast and easy but same as above I think I'd break them. More so since they aren't removable. At least they'd be cheap to replace though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNXuYlwI8N0 The first option seems like the most fun solution. Thoughts? keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 21:05
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tater_salad posted:Somewhat woodworking related. Like the other poster mentioned acetone will take up everything not nailed down. It is extremely hot. Simple Green will clean up waxes and the like. A water based finish should be safe to go over after 6 months, it evaporates and the actual finish is pretty stable. And roughing up the existing finish before applying a new one over it is always a good idea.
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Nov 9, 2015 21:44
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Acetone was the first thing I culd think of, probably would have researched something better like simple green. Okay thanks for the avice.. sanding screen on a buffer, wipe it up.. poly it down.
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Nov 9, 2015 21:57
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thanks, I don't think laminating different species is too much to worry about as once the wood is kiln dried it's not going to move a crazy amount, but of course it also depends on the sizes you laminate. Large pieces will have much more movement than small pieces. If you want to get really serious about it you could calculate the movement using a calculator (http://www.woodworkerssource.com/shop/move.html), there's also plenty of books on the subject. Another thing to consider would be if one wood type moved a lot, would the glue and other wood provide enough strength the keep everything in check? Don't know if anyone has made a calculator or done in-depth research on that. Thanks, that's helpful. I wanted to put some mahogany inlays into the rimu table I'm building but wasn't sure how well that would work in practice. BUGS OF SPRING posted:Has anyone here tried making their own riving knife/splitter? I asked about this a little earlier in the thread, and got as far as getting a template for the riving knife that would have originally come with my saw and some sheet steel of the right thickness, but haven't actually tried making it yet as I've found that for what I typically need to do I can just feed the wood in from one side of the saw so that I'm not in line with the kickback, as someone else had suggested in the thread. It seems like it should be a fairly straightforward process to make a riving knife though - I also had the advice of making it from another saw blade, but I found in my case it wasn't easy to find a saw blade thick enough to use for that purpose since the blade itself is a lot thinner than the kerf on the blade I'm using on the saw.
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Nov 9, 2015 23:43
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Stool update. Construction completed. I had been putting off cutting the seat because I knew the blank was too tall for my bandsaw. The plan was to drive to the other side of town to use my friend's saw. I couldn't remember how much it was over capacity as I glued it up a few weeks ago. Finally I just set it on the saw to see how close it was: Not worth the drive across town. I tried to adjust the saw guide up as far as I could. Even considered cutting it without the cover on the saw as that gave me an extra 1/32" of height. Finally I ended up running the blank over the jointer until it just fit. After cutting and a little sanding:  Cleaned with mineral spirits:  Next I need to mate the two pieces. If I had a domino I domino it, but I don't so I decided to use dowels. I drilled four holes in the base and then placed dowel centers in the holes. I set the seat on top, and then pushed down to create the corresponding center parks.   Remember those kreg screw I used? I hit one drilling the dowel holes and ruined a forstner bit:  Next add glue and clamp it together:  After that I wiped the seat down with BLO.  
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Nov 10, 2015 15:01
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Bravo, it's gorgeous!
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Nov 10, 2015 19:45
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Now I have a lathe. Apologies for crappy cell phone photo. Not sure if I want to keep it permanently at that bench, but it is very heavy to lift! Also scored an old lamp for 5 euros, need to get more of these and put them around the band saw and drill press too.
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Nov 10, 2015 20:34
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Finally saved up to replace the lovely fence on my old craftsman table saw. It was so worth it:  It's like a whole new saw! I've never had a table saw fence that was always aligned with the miter slots and it's amazing. I will never have to measure at the front and back of the blade a half-dozen times to get things right. I've had this saw in my shop since mid-summer and have only used it for cross-cuts because I refused to put the old lovely fence back on. I did notice last night that the blade is just a tiny bit closer to the back of the fence than the front, so I'll have to readjust the trunnions later, but that isn't too big of a job. Also gave me a chance to put the micro-jig splitter on there finally.
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Nov 10, 2015 23:47
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swampface posted:Finally saved up to replace the lovely fence on my old craftsman table saw. It was so worth it: lol, bad memories. I think every woodworking newbie ought to have to start with a craftsman tablesaw.
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Nov 10, 2015 23:57
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Opioid posted:Building this one. So I decided to build this thing but want to make it a bit taller. That means moving the legs out closer to the edge of the table. The plan puts them at 4 1/4 inchs from the edge. If I raise want to raise it 3 inches, that puts the legs at 1 1/4 inches from the edge. Would that cause any problems? I don't think the center of the table is going to lose any strength from moving them out.
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Nov 11, 2015 03:17
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Anyone have any experience with milk paint? I'm going to be using some on a pair of nightstand tables I've been building. I'll be mixing my own, from this recipe http://www.earthpigments.com/milk-paint-with-lime/. On that note, anyone need lime? I now have 30 kilos in my car.
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Nov 11, 2015 10:08
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Free Market Mambo posted:Anyone have any experience with milk paint? I'm going to be using some on a pair of nightstand tables I've been building. I'll be mixing my own, from this recipe http://www.earthpigments.com/milk-paint-with-lime/. Marc from the wood whisperer did a video on milk paint.
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Nov 11, 2015 14:28
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DevNull posted:So I decided to build this thing but want to make it a bit taller. That means moving the legs out closer to the edge of the table. The plan puts them at 4 1/4 inchs from the edge. If I raise want to raise it 3 inches, that puts the legs at 1 1/4 inches from the edge. Would that cause any problems? I don't think the center of the table is going to lose any strength from moving them out. I don't see any issues. The top is thick enough it doesn't need center support. As I look at the plan I wonder if there isn't a simpler way to brace the legs than angled bracing.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:08
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Can someone link a decent 4-6 piece chisel set for lathe work? I'm upgrading from my cheap set but Amazon's not much help here. Under $80 would be great.
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Nov 11, 2015 19:42
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Mr. Mambold posted:lol, bad memories. I think every woodworking newbie ought to have to start with a craftsman tablesaw. It's not so bad now that it's got an aftermarket fence, miter gauge, zero clearance insert, and splitter! Unfortunately my forrest blade seems to have picked up a slight bend after 15 or so years. Guess that was probably worth it in the long run though.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:05
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My impression is the Emerson Craftsman saw was basically well built but crippled by a mediocre fence, I've never used one though.
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Nov 11, 2015 21:52
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My local hardware store sells clear (knot-free) 18mm pine, is this an easy wood to get started with on babies first bookcase? They also sell spruce boards but they're pieced together from a thousand lumps and strips, not proper boards.
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Nov 13, 2015 07:23
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I made a faux-barnwood picture frame! Let's pretend the lovely miter cuts are part of the effect...
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Nov 13, 2015 16:22
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Looks awesome! That's the best part of rustic frames, the more you gently caress up the more 'rustic' they are.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:32
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Cakefool posted:My local hardware store sells clear (knot-free) 18mm pine, is this an easy wood to get started with on babies first bookcase? They also sell spruce boards but they're pieced together from a thousand lumps and strips, not proper boards. 18mm is approx. 3/4", right? You can make bookcases with pine. If they have a grade with small knots, no voids, it should be cheaper- and more attractive, imo.
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Nov 13, 2015 16:32
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The Dave posted:Looks awesome! That's the best part of rustic frames, the more you gently caress up the more 'rustic' they are. Thanks! I caught the framing bug (god that sounds weird...) and have been falling deeper down the rabbit hole (holy poo poo tools and materials add up fast...). It's a fun way to showcase my pictures, but I've been seriously questioning myself recently whether I could ever actually make any money doing this. Anybody here work in the framing business?
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Nov 13, 2015 16:39
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Would love for you to show off your process, because I want to get better at making frames.
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Nov 13, 2015 17:05
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The Dave posted:Would love for you to show off your process, because I want to get better at making frames. I'm just learning too, but I'll throw something together this weekend.
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Nov 13, 2015 17:23
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Which one of you made that neato hidden magnetic lock for a cupboard door to keep kids out? I've been clicking through the thread trying to find it without any luck.
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Nov 14, 2015 19:37
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