|
Paul MaudDib posted:I'm also in the "not enough developer" camp here. I'm guessing this is 120? Are you sure your tank takes 500ml? I think my tank uses 590ml for a roll of 120, it's usually printed on the bottom. Definitely 120 and I have developed plenty of 120 film in the past without this issue. I'm also looking at the reel right now and it is all the way at the bottom where the base of the reel holder is. This is a Patterson tank.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 03:02 |
|
|
# ? Jun 3, 2024 03:37 |
|
Paul MaudDib posted:[...] Yeah, what's weird is my Paterson came without that clip. Most of the time I got away without it, developing 120, like Paul said, but one time -- well I didn't. Since then I just load two spools on the spindle anyway, just to be sure. Ninja Edit: Yeah I'm almost certain now that it floated up. It also goes down again in wash (because the tank is being filled to brim) so you usually can't see it after the fact.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 03:02 |
|
VomitOnLino posted:Ninja edit: Yeah then it's very likely that your reel moved up and down the spindle. If you are sure you had enough volume of developer then this is probably what happened.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 03:04 |
|
pootiebigwang posted:Definitely 120 and I have developed plenty of 120 film in the past without this issue. I'm also looking at the reel right now and it is all the way at the bottom where the base of the reel holder is. This is a Patterson tank. It goes up when you agitate, and then there's not enough force to resettle it when you set it back down. One thing I would suggest is changing your agitation style. I pick the tank and tilt it about 15* and then swirl it in like a cone shape. My personal opinion (unfounded) is that this makes the reel less likely to slide upwards or generate air bubbles. VomitOnLino posted:Yeah, what's weird is my Paterson came without that clip. Most of the time I got away without it, developing 120, like Paul said, but one time -- well I didn't. They're really loving easy to lose since they're a nondescript piece of plastic that is removed at precisely the most interesting/busy second of the photographic process (pulling the developed film out of the tank/fixer, seeing your pictures for the first time, then getting it squeeged and drying before it gets hosed up somehow, possibly also dealing with the other tanks you've got in progress). The next time you put in a Freestyle order get like a half dozen of the Arista branded clips. They're like a quarter each or something and it sucks to gently caress up a roll because you don't have one. e: Pootie if you put in a Freestyle order get some Rodinal too ("Compard R09", not "R09 special") , it's awesome and lasts forever Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Apr 25, 2013 |
# ? Apr 25, 2013 03:11 |
|
All my tanks are 590ml for 120 (I always use 600ml for ease). Also did you bang the tank on the side of the sink/ground a couple of times after each set of agitations? This helps the bubbles move and also keep that reel at the bottom of the tank.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 03:55 |
|
I was not even aware that a clip for that existed. I almost always use way more developer than needed though so I have just never run into needing one.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 03:55 |
|
Portra. These are scanned, but on Monday I'm going to try to take the second one up to 16x20 in the wet lab. Also, a squirrel.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 05:04 |
|
Is this in Santa Cruz?
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 05:11 |
|
Nope, down south about three hours in Avila Beach.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 05:13 |
So, I keep forgetting this forum exists a I stumble through figuring some stuff out in my darkroom. I bought a complete setup of Craigslist from someone who was moving. I have an Omega B66 enlarger with all the accessories for 35mm and up to 2 1/4" square EXCEPT the lens for actually projecting the medium format image. I believe I need an 80 mm lens to do this (correct me if I'm wrong), but I also need a lens that will mount. Right now the lens on the head is a Nikon 50mm with a threaded mount of some sort. B&H only has one lock mount for this enlarger and it is an M39 Leica thread. Do I basically just need to find a lens in 80 mm with the proper threads? I appreciate all help. I've got a few older 620 cameras, but I've held off on springing for the film since I can't print it yet.
|
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 17:54 |
|
Mr. Powers posted:Right now the lens on the head is a Nikon 50mm with a threaded mount of some sort. B&H only has one lock mount for this enlarger and it is an M39 Leica thread. Do I basically just need to find a lens in 80 mm with the proper threads? Yes, I think most enlarger lenses have the same threads and one that doesn't will probably have a large-format style thread-and-flange that clamps down on any appropriately-sized hole in the board. At least most lenses of any given focal length should, there may be different hole diameters for larger lenses or something I guess. 50->80mm probably won't be a problem though. My suggestion would be to not spend a lot of money. You can't hardly give this stuff away any more, last summer I literally picked up an entire 4x5 enlarger and a bunch of support stuff for $free. Any random enlarger lens (Enlarging Raptar, some Ektars, anything triplet-based) is worth maybe $5-10. A good one (4-element, EL-Nikkor or Componon) is probably a $30 item. I picked up a set of the nice high-end 6-element Componon-S 50/80/150 for $50 each and that's about normal if you are patient and watch eBay/Apug/wherever. The only thing you should be paying more for is something really exotic like an APO Componon, which were modern lenses released around the time everyone stopped buying enlarger stuff and so never really hit market saturation. Do you have a dichro head? If not, do you have a set of filters? By the way I highly doubt you have everything, there's ALWAYS another thing that will make your life easier working in pitch black with photosensitive materials Got a grain focuser? It's a PAIN to get focus without one. Speed Easels? 4-blade easels? Fancy contact printing frame? Glassed carriers to keep things flat? Vacuum easel? Cold light head? Enlarging is an awesome, fun process but I will be the first to admit that it nickels and dimes you in a way that not even shooting film does. Also don't hold off springing for the film. Go shoot some film now and get some practice with the rest of the process. You can do contact prints even with your 50mm (since you will just be using it to throw a nice even square of light for you to expose with). Get a piece of foam and a sheet of plate glass, put the paper on the foam and position the negative sleeve over the paper, press down gently with the glass, and trigger the enlarger. Note that depending on the 620 camera you may not get great results from enlarging - Kodak's business model was to get a camera in every hand to sell the film, and large negative sizes compensated for the low lens quality by allowing lower magnifications. Some of them were intended for contact printing or small prints only and won't really stand up to much enlargement. Others had real lenses and will do just fine, there's a few real gems too. I'm not a huge fan of 620 since it needs to be respooled, but I see you haven't posted in the film thread before and if you haven't experienced pulling wet negatives out of the fixer you really need to go do that right now. It's pretty much the best part of photography for me - you spend all that time working on something that is entirely in your head and you can't see, you have to fumble around in the dark and then gamble you didn't mess any of it up, and then suddenly you open the tank and there's beautiful little pictures on a piece of dripping plastic. Medium format slides are something else you should really try at least once.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 18:34 |
Paul MaudDib posted:Yes, I think most enlarger lenses have the same threads and one that doesn't will probably have a large-format style thread-and-flange that clamps down on any appropriately-sized hole in the board. At least most lenses of any given focal length should, there may be different hole diameters for larger lenses or something I guess. 50->80mm probably won't be a problem though. I actually have most of what you listed. The guy had a pretty good dark room setup, and basically sold off his B&W setup. The carriers are glassless, which has worked fairly well for 35mm. I've used this setup with 35mm for a few rolls (I don't use it as often as I'd like) and it works well. I spent about a month trying to figure out why all my prints were low contrast. I thought I had a light leak because I was getting a lot of light around the image. It turned out there was just years of dust on the back of the enlarging lens so it was scattering the light. The head is just a condenser. I picked up a set of Ilford filters for multigrade printing (when I was trying to figure out my contrast problem). If I ever step to color, I'll probably pick up some new cheap equipment. I'll measure the threads on the 50 on it right now. Are there are known good places to pick up cheap used enlarging lenses? B&H has a used Nikkor 75 with the threads for $80 which is more than I've spent on everything else in the room combined. Edit: I have a grain focuser but it's either missing a piece, broken, or I have no idea how to use it. Basically I just see light when looking through it, even when the image is pretty sharp to the eye.
|
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 18:55 |
|
Mr. Powers posted:I'll measure the threads on the 50 on it right now. Are there are known good places to pick up cheap used enlarging lenses? B&H has a used Nikkor 75 with the threads for $80 which is more than I've spent on everything else in the room combined. Dichro isn't a big deal, just nice to have. I would look up which Nikkor model specifically from the focal length and f-stop, some of the EL-Nikkors are also 6-element and that would be decent if so. APUG would be my go-to here, there's very frequently someone drying to get rid of some darkroom basics like that. Grain focusers are really tricky to get used to. They have a really narrow viewing angle and also can't be viewed if you are too close or too far away. Try playing around with where you position your head, or it could just be broken. You just want to focus wide open until you see pepper grain and get that as sharp as possible.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 19:17 |
Oh, another thing: I'm guessing all my chemicals are bad now. It's been almost 2 years since I've developed/printed anything. They were diluted from concentrates. It's it possible the concentrates are okay still? There would have been air in the bottle with them.
|
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 19:42 |
|
Develop a test roll. If the images are worth enough to you that you don't want to lose them, just buy new chemicals.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2013 20:03 |
|
Mr. Powers posted:Oh, another thing: I'm guessing all my chemicals are bad now. It's been almost 2 years since I've developed/printed anything. They were diluted from concentrates. It's it possible the concentrates are okay still? There would have been air in the bottle with them. Dump them if you care. They may work but is saving the $30 for new chemicals really worth messing up a $5 roll of film plus all the time you spent shooting it? By the way what format will you be enlarging? 80mm is only meant for 6x6, it will not handle 6x9 if that's what you have. Your enlarger won't go bigger than 6x6 either. One thing you may also need is a different lens cone. Omega D2s need them for sure. I think the B66 should be OK but I'm not positive. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Apr 25, 2013 |
# ? Apr 25, 2013 21:05 |
Paul MaudDib posted:Dump them if you care. They may work but is saving the $30 for new chemicals really worth messing up a $5 roll of film plus all the time you spent shooting it? The only medium cameras I have shoot 6x6 on 620 film and the only medium film carrier I have for the enlarger is 6x6 as well. I've got a friend that wants to do some printing, so we'll probably just split costs on a new batch of chemicals.
|
|
# ? Apr 26, 2013 01:42 |
|
There is someone in my area selling a darkroom setup that I can pick up for $175. It includes:quote:Simmon Omega D2 Enlarger (with base and German Rodenstock-Omegaron 1:3.5 50mm (with f stops of 3.5 - 5.6), film holders, etc. Also have all size developing trays, GraLab timer, darkroom lights.
|
# ? Apr 26, 2013 20:27 |
|
FACKER posted:There is someone in my area selling a darkroom setup that I can pick up for $175. It includes: That's an ok deal. Nice lens.
|
# ? Apr 26, 2013 21:17 |
|
Why isn't Ektar 400 a thing?
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 02:13 |
|
I have a feeling it's that Kodak wanted to make a slide film replacement and didn't really see any point going faster than 100, as the vast majority of the now defunct Ektachromes were 100 iso or less.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 03:33 |
Speaking of slide film, is there a way to print slides? My grandfather had tens of thousands that he took over the years (we buried him with a lot of them because he never let any go), and though a bunch have been digitized, I'd love to print some of them in my dark room. The other problem I'd probably run into would be that they're all color slides and I'm only setup for B&W printing.
|
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 06:15 |
|
Mr. Powers posted:Speaking of slide film, is there a way to print slides? My grandfather had tens of thousands that he took over the years (we buried him with a lot of them because he never let any go), and though a bunch have been digitized, I'd love to print some of them in my dark room. The other problem I'd probably run into would be that they're all color slides and I'm only setup for B&W printing. It's called a Cibachrome print. Unfortunately, the materials have been discontinued. This is really a shame, because it takes a really good scan to match a print done with a precisely set-up enlarger system. An Epson 500 is no match for a grain-focused aligned 6-element lens projecting straight off the negative onto a vacuum easel. At this point, positive enlarging is lost for anything bigger than a 3x4 Fujiroid print. Maybe Impossible Project will bring back some big color Polaroid film someday. At best you could probably do some B+W positive prints, as that paper is still made. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Apr 29, 2013 |
# ? Apr 29, 2013 06:25 |
|
Kodak just announced they're selling their film business. RIP Kodak.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 21:17 |
|
On the other hand, maybe Kodak's film line will be in a more sustainable position with a new company instead of being chained to a dying dinosaur of a company.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 21:25 |
|
From what I've read, it'll all still be sold the in the yellow Kodak boxes, made at the same factory by the same people. And like HPL said, the big positive, not attached to a failing ink jet printer company.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 22:22 |
|
Quantum of Phallus posted:Kodak just announced they're selling their film business. RIP Kodak. We have known Kodak was going to do that for months. Get worried when they stop producing motion picture film, then it's over.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 22:36 |
|
But...they just released Vision3 8mm...for some reason...
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 22:55 |
|
Quantum of Phallus posted:But...they just released Vision3 8mm...for some reason... See? We will have Portra for a long rear end time.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 23:00 |
|
Just as an update on the Kodak PI division sell off: http://www.bjp-online.com/british-j...0pension%20plan Basically they've sold the film division to the Kodak pension plan, who are looking to this as a growing revenue stream to fund ex-Kodak employee pensions. It's UK based, but all the coating facilities in Rochester will come under their control, along with the paper coating facilities in the UK.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 23:02 |
|
Quantum of Phallus posted:But...they just released Vision3 8mm...for some reason... It's a good sign.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 23:03 |
|
Spedman posted:Just as an update on the Kodak PI division sell off: Dear Kodak UK, please sell your poo poo to Ilford when you are done with it. TIA
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 23:07 |
|
Would Ilford touch colour film? That'd be sweet.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 23:46 |
Quantum of Phallus posted:Would Ilford touch colour film? That'd be sweet. If they get a complete production line and formulary they'll probably do it. If Harman (i.e. the "UK Ilford", not the actual Swiss company named Ilford which only produces inkjet paper) buys Kodak's film division I think they might market it under the name Kodak Harman. Question is what they'd do to the B/W films that overlap their own range. Would they kill off Tri-X and T-Max entirely or actually try to sell it alongside the traditional Ilford lines? Another possible buyer might be whoever runs the weird film businesses in Germany. (I think it's might actually be Maco somehow? Whoever produces the films marketed under Rollei and Agfa brands these days.)
|
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 00:07 |
|
You know who should buy Kodak? loving Freestyle that's who.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 00:22 |
|
Maybe the Chinese company that's cranking out Shanghai GP3 will buy it.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 01:59 |
|
8th-samurai posted:You know who should buy Kodak? loving Freestyle that's who. Ugh, yes, this please. "Arista Premium NC 160" aka $3 portra
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 16:51 |
|
And then you'll only be able to buy portra from Freestyle and they'll be an order limit and no cheap shipping. Sounds great!
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 17:11 |
|
Mr. Despair posted:And then you'll only be able to buy portra from Freestyle and they'll be an order limit and no cheap shipping. Sounds great! Even with their $25 minimum and a high shipping estimate of $10 you'd be paying $40 for ten rolls instead of five (5 rolls of 35mm portra is currently $36 on amazon)
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 17:34 |
|
|
# ? Jun 3, 2024 03:37 |
|
As long as we are posting film pipedreams let's go ahead and hope Freestyle starts fulfilling through Amazon and makes their poo poo prime eligible.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2013 19:02 |