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Could not get the Perrin TMIC to fit on a '10 wrx to save my life.
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Mar 5, 2012 03:00
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nm posted:Ok. If youre going to be doing suspension mods gradually, make sure to get an alignment warranty. Mine has paid for itself and them some. most mom and pops wont offer this but most big chains will.
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Mar 5, 2012 03:15
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nm posted:Seriously. Sorry to bring this back up, but how do you make sure that the car checks out okay before buying the plane ticket?
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Mar 5, 2012 03:28
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nm posted:Ok. could be, but their pricing is going to be on the high end in socal. They really need to start bringing in money because that place has been a huge expense for Cobb for the last two years. West End alignment is the best place. Darin is an awesome guy and the pricing is about half what robi charges too. With a bigger tmic on the LGT and 08+ wrx you have to cut off the little tab that holds a pcv line and remove a little rubber sleeve on the hose to the TB. They seem to fit fairly well after that. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Mar 5, 2012 |
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Mar 5, 2012 03:33
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Lord Gaga posted:If youre going to be doing suspension mods gradually, make sure to get an alignment warranty. Mine has paid for itself and them some. most mom and pops wont offer this but most big chains will. I already have the suspension mods, I just need to get my coilovers rebuilt. Neptr posted:Sorry to bring this back up, but how do you make sure that the car checks out okay before buying the plane ticket?
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Mar 5, 2012 07:32
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toplitzin posted:I just got a free Perrin short ram intake. Yay! But it doesn't have the filter oil and stuff. . Can I use the cleaning and oil kit from k&n to clean and re oil the foam filter, or do I need to buy the magic Perrin kit? I answered my own question: Perrin uses the Uni-filter ufm-400 kit. So I can go pick that up at my local motorcycle shop for $15.
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Mar 5, 2012 15:00
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Got my oil leak sorted out. It was the gasket on the Turbo for the oil return line. Also had a cv boot replaced and while they were at it they discovered my inlet pipe had torn and the bpv was leaking at the flange. So now I have a perrin inlet and no boost leaks. Car runs great now! drat leaking air...
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Mar 5, 2012 17:47
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My car has a lot of rod knocks that are trying to escape... Oh well, abused ej25d made it to about 244k miles. That's not bad...
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Mar 5, 2012 20:40
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I wish I had a 99, it has a phase 2 block with bigger rod journals with dohc heads. I'm probably going to do a lot of autox this season and am going to put on a better oil pan. Probably sti, maybe killer b. considering a small accumulator too. Having spun bearings in two cars due to extended high rpm cornering I'd rather not have it happen again. Especially before I have my own lift.
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Mar 5, 2012 21:10
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Changed the manual transmission oil in my 08 LGT and noticed a couple small (2mm in length) pieces of what appeared to be o-ring material sitting on the drain plug. I couldn't find any external leaks from the transmission, so I'm ruling out any seal on the case. Are there any internal o-rings in a manual box? Didn't find any other abnormal debris.
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Mar 5, 2012 21:54
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jamal posted:I wish I had a 99, it has a phase 2 block with bigger rod journals with dohc heads. I'm probably going to do a lot of autox this season and am going to put on a better oil pan. Probably sti, maybe killer b. considering a small accumulator too. Having spun bearings in two cars due to extended high rpm cornering I'd rather not have it happen again. Especially before I have my own lift. Really? I did not know this. Interesting. So the 99 phase1 ej25D block is exactly the same as the SOHC 2.5 block? Also, doesn't the thrust bearing change places? That's pretty interesting, so I assume then you could just use a phase2 block with DOHC heads and get the same compression, etc. Have it work as stock. Just without lovely 2.5D block.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:20
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I "Hogzausted" my car for poo poo and giggles and boy did I regret it, maybe is a sign of growing up but I love how quiet the Legacy GT is, there is a whiff of a high rpm noise from the stock set up that just sounds pleasing. I think the boxer rumble suits the STI's and WRX so well, but on a big plushy sedan it just sounds wrong. I guess it saved me the 600 US I was going to spend on a Magnaflow or Invidia set up. My Subaru friends called me crazy, but I am very pleased that the idle is so smooth and quiet, that sometimes I think the car just turned itself off for some reason. Now... I just need US12,000 so I can buy one of our member's immaculate 22B Sti GC...
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Mar 5, 2012 22:25
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chrisgt posted:Really? I did not know this. Interesting. So the 99 phase1 ej25D block is exactly the same as the SOHC 2.5 block? Also, doesn't the thrust bearing change places? The dish on the pistons is different between the two, but the head's combustion chamber volume and headgaskets are different between dohc and sohc so it works out I guess. The math is floating around the internet somewhere, but yeah, for 99 they just stuck the phase 2 shortblock in the Legacy (I think the Impreza RS got SOHC heads and the MAP based ecu). The other thing is the phase 2 got the thrust bearing put on the #5 journal which also seems to be an improvement.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:46
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The 99 impreza/forester got the SOHC 2.5. But all the ones I've seen had a MAF with a slightly different intake manifold. I have a friend who got a 99 SOHC engine to swap into his 02 impreza because he blow his engine up.. To make it work he had to swap the intake manifold and the crank/ cam gear.mulligan posted:I "Hogzausted" my car for poo poo and giggles and boy did I regret it, maybe is a sign of growing up but I love how quiet the Legacy GT is, there is a whiff of a high rpm noise from the stock set up that just sounds pleasing. I think the boxer rumble suits the STI's and WRX so well, but on a big plushy sedan it just sounds wrong. I guess it saved me the 600 US I was going to spend on a Magnaflow or Invidia set up. Loud exhausts are fun... But on a DD it's wicked nice to have a nice quiet exhaust. Loud exhaust on a DD SUCKS. I was riding with a friend of mine for a few hours and it gave me a head ache.
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Mar 5, 2012 22:54
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Looking to buy the base model '12 WRX. Would be a daily driver and I don't need/want the extra power or insurance hike from going up to an STI. Any thoughts or comments before I pull the trigger? E.g. any reason to look into going up from base or look into other years, etc. Wanted to soak up some opinions since I don't know much about cars (learning!) and it'd be the first new car I've ever bought.
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Mar 6, 2012 19:20
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thechalkoutline posted:Looking to buy the base model '12 WRX. Would be a daily driver and I don't need/want the extra power or insurance hike from going up to an STI. I bought a '11 base model with no options other than the short shifter (I did not want that either). I think the armrest extension thing would have been useful, I don't miss anything else. Do it. I don't think you can get the same mix of simplicity, power and practicality with any other vehicle. The 7500 mile oil change interval they have is lies, do that at 5k or even less. Other than that just enjoy it. If you live somewhere with snow budget for another set of wheels and all seasons or snow tires. sanchez fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Mar 6, 2012 |
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Mar 6, 2012 19:31
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I went ahead and got the 02 Outback Sedan VDC I looked at awhile ago. He dropped his price after it not selling and accepted my offer. I'm loving it so far and hope it holds up.  It's in fine shape other than a few odd things not working. For one, a bunch of interior lights are out, like a few on the instrument cluster and some of the switches for seat heat, foglights, and such. One thing, the auto-dim rearview mirror is stuck on dim. A small portion on top of it is fine, but the rest is dark. I assume that means it's broke so I found the same one here: http://subarupartsstop.com/searchproduct.asp?model=Outback%20Sport&catid=324835902676315&year=02&productdesc=Auto-dimming+Mirror/Compass Any ideas? I'll have to tear into the lights to see what needs replacing, too. I really want to make sure I can see the temperature gauge at night. Also, there's no owners manual. Not that I can't find all the info elsewhere, I can't seem to locate one online anywhere. AzureSkys fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 6, 2012 22:23
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Thought this was an interesting wheel choice. I actually really like it.
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Mar 6, 2012 23:29
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jamal posted:we didn't even use a BOV at 38psi. But yeah, if you get to the point where it is leaking at high boost, replace it with another that still recirculates. Actually, if you stick a stock metal one in a vice and give it a couple of turns they'll hold another couple psi. Oh yeah, not saying you ever need a blow-off valve with one of these cars, just that people tend to do that sort of thing if they're going crazy and doing a rotated kit or the like. Supposedly a blow-off valve can be tuned for, but I have no clue why you'd want to go with anything other than a recirculating, considering the other issues with BOV's (tweaking to get it just right with atmospheric changes is a big issue, I've heard). The stock BPV will definitely work if you squish it a bit - we did mine in with a socket and a hammer to get it to hold 20-21 psi, and it's been great for the last few years. I think I would still prefer to have a real adjustable recirculating BPV though, since I get some minor compressor surge issues when it vents at much lower or much higher elevations. Also, what sort of setup are you making 38 psi on with a Subaru??? BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 00:55
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sanchez posted:I bought a '11 base model with no options other than the short shifter (I did not want that either). I think the armrest extension thing would have been useful, I don't miss anything else. Useful, thanks.
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Mar 7, 2012 01:23
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You guys heard about the V12 BRZ?!?!?! I was just at the local Subaru dealership buying an oil filter and crush washer, so I decided to ask if they had a BRZ on the lot, not really knowing or caring but wanting to check one out in person. The sales guy proceeds to tell me there is a waiting list for the 250,000 dollar V12 BRZ. But the V6 is pretty good to. I thought he was pulling my leg so I laughed. He didn't think it was funny, so I said, "Its a flat 4 cylinder." To which he replied, "they have one of those but I just built a V12 version on line, I know what I'm talking about." He was grumpy in addition to being retarded. I said, "I don't think so" and laughed (this time at him) and left. I think that if people that stupid can make enough money to survive then its only a matter of time until I am rich beyond my wildest dreams. loving moron. I have to continue my rant. In addition to the above, this dealership has: lied to me when I was considering buying from them sold me an incorrect crush washer (I was none the wiser till i tried to fit it) sold me incorrect oil (it was in a box with apparently others mixed. Lesson is to check EVERY quart) left the oil cap off on an oil change but never sold me a car. Don't go to McCurley Integrity Subaru in south east WA unless you are buying parts. And then check them before you leave the store. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 02:21
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Don't go to McCurley Integrity Subaru in south east WA unless you are buying parts. And then check them before you leave the store. Why not just buy OEM parts online for cheaper and never go to a dealer at all?
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Mar 7, 2012 02:47
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thechalkoutline posted:Looking to buy the base model '12 WRX. Would be a daily driver and I don't need/want the extra power or insurance hike from going up to an STI. I went into a Subaru dealership wanting a base model Imprezza, test drove the WRX and ended up with a 2012 STi. I wish I had fog lights and the arm rest extender but otherwise am happy (also had the short throw shifter and the cat-back exhaust installed on it from the dealership as it came with those already). I traded in a 2000 Buick Regal GS and pay about $25 a month more for this car in insurance. I guess being old with no tickets or accidents helps.
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Mar 7, 2012 02:51
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BoostCreep posted:Why not just buy OEM parts online for cheaper and never go to a dealer at all? I think I'll do that from now on. I just honestly don't know how you sit in a Subaru sales office and tell me you built a V12 BRZ online. I just wish I was joking or hallucinating (sadly not).
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Mar 7, 2012 03:51
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Flyinglemur posted:I went into a Subaru dealership wanting a base model Imprezza, test drove the WRX and ended up with a 2012 STi. That's a hell of an upsale. I got some nice oceanfront property in Arizona if you're interested.
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Mar 7, 2012 04:31
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I just honestly don't know how you sit in a Subaru sales office and tell me you built a V12 BRZ online. You should have whipped out a sheet of paper and drawn up a contract for him to buy you a BRZ if he could go back to his computer and successfully order a V12 one for you.
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Mar 7, 2012 04:34
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When I brake, especially when going downhill at highway speeds, I feel heavy vibration in the steering wheel (it will jiggle back and forth rapidly if I don't hold it) and the car shakes like a tire is out of balance. Is this a sign that a rotor is warped or damaged in some way? Car is an '05 LGT with ~83k. I replaced the original brake pads with Stoptech at ~72.5k and had the rotors turned at that time. I was experiencing this same problem before the new pads/turning. The pads/turning fixed the problem for a bit, but around 5k or less later (< 3 months) the problem returned. If this is a rotor issue, should I have them turned again or just replace? If replace, should I do all 4 or only the offending axle? Anything else I should take a look at?
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Mar 7, 2012 05:17
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That can happen if you have snow/mud built up in your wheels or the wheels are otherwise out of balance, not just tires. I'm surprised you'd be able to generate enough pad deposits to make that happen again so soon. Are all your lugnuts tightened properly? Ball joints good? Is your pad wear even or is something weird happening on one side that isn't on the other? Brake fluid bled? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 05:21
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Splinter posted:If this is a rotor issue, should I have them turned again or just replace? If replace, should I do all 4 or only the offending axle? Anything else I should take a look at? it is likely due to the rotors. What happens is that uneven pad deposits/thickness variation cause hot spots on the rotor which become harder. so you turn the rotor flat but the hard spots are still there and come back as vibration. You should also check that the calipers are not sticking and pad wear is even, and possibly re-grease the slide pins. I'd start with just replacing the fronts. centric premium blanks are about $80 ea (pn120.47024). I'll have to check if the 125.x rotor is available in that shape. it's a little higher quality iron they use on some of the slotted rotors and might be worth it if you're hard on the brakes. for ball joints you basically stick a prybar between the control arm and upright and see if there's any play. Also take a look at the bushings in the rear of the front control arms. they tend to not last very long. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 05:33
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I just had new tires installed less than 3 weeks ago, so I assume the lugnuts were properly tightened. I'm not sure about the ball joints. How would I check? I commute 60 miles a day, with a good chunk of that being over a windy hill (highway 17 for bay area folks). That may have something to do with the quick wear.
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Mar 7, 2012 05:33
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Splinter posted:I just had new tires installed less than 3 weeks ago, so I assume the lugnuts were properly tightened. Not always the best assumption
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Mar 7, 2012 07:48
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I'm looking to change the oil soon on my 03 WRX and I'm trying to decide on a brand. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic but some guy on NASIOC said that is a poor choice. I'm not really sure why and I don't really believe that. What do you guys use?
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Mar 7, 2012 15:22
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Safety Dance posted:That's a hell of an upsale. I got some nice oceanfront property in Arizona if you're interested. I don't want to give the poo poo salesman any credit at all, this was all me. I knew pretty much nothing about Subaru but wanted an AWD vehicle and had narrowed down what I wanted to something by Subaru and a Mini Countryman (we already own a Convertible S so I know that I like them, etc). Walk in, look at cars, see a 4 door in the middle of the showroom and salesman starts to talk to me about what I want. There is a blue WRX in the background so I ask if we can look at that. The price seems ok so we test drive it and I like it. Go to the Mini dealership and test drive a countryman. I like that too. Go home, make list of pluses and minuses for each car and the reason I went with the Subaru was for performance and styling (is pretty). So then I look up the STi and what all comes with it and it seems that for the money, the upgrades are worth it. Talk it over with the wife and agree that we should go for the STi instead, so that's kind of how it worked. After the decision was made a comedy of errors by the dealership and a dead distant relative ensued and without getting into details I only owe half of what the sticker price was. So I'm glad I went with the STi. Now about that oceanfront property...is there also a view of the mountains because if so, I'm totally in.
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Mar 7, 2012 15:52
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My how times have changed since I've hung out on this thread. I've recently come to find out that I have low compression in cylinder #2 on my 2010 STi. The speed shop has talked me into doing new pistons, because the dealer blew my warranty over downpipe/exhaust/intake. I've accepted my fate and decided to not only do the pistons, which give safety in significant HP upgrades, but I'm also doing a turbo, injectors, fuel pump, and clutch upgrades. Oh yea, the turbo requires an upgraded inter-cooler also. When all is said and done this will run be about $7k. Worth it to you assuming you'd be driving out in a month slamming down 450 horsepower at the wheels? What does the internet think about my latest vehicular venture? Edit: It's still a top mount IC and original position turbo. I gave them a goal of auto-x low-end performance vs. raw top speed.
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Mar 7, 2012 15:53
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Yakattak posted:I'm looking to change the oil soon on my 03 WRX and I'm trying to decide on a brand. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic but some guy on NASIOC said that is a poor choice. I'm not really sure why and I don't really believe that. What do you guys use? I've heard the same thing about Mobile 1. People love to say "it shears down quickly" though I don't believe half of them know anything about shear in a liquid and less than 1% have seen and can provide UOA to show a substantial loss of properties. That being said, I narrowed my choices to Motul 8100 5w30 or Amsoil sig series 5w30 for my 11 STi. Till now I have been using Subaru oil. The Amsoil should be in the car by Saturday, if you want I can post up some first impressions. Edit to add: I decided on the more expensive Amsoil because it has the API SN, SM and ILSAC GF-4 and GF-5 certifications listed as required in my owners manual. The Motul is API SL, an older certification that is probably fine according to a smart board member here, and I believe it. I went for the Amsoil because I don't ever want to be hassled by a dealership over oil. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 16:20
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I've heard the same thing about Mobile 1. People love to say "it shears down quickly" though I don't believe half of them know anything about shear in a liquid and less than 1% have seen and can provide UOA to show a substantial loss of properties. I think it's more of a 5w30 than a Mobil 1 problem. My Subaru 5w30 synthetic is on the thin side but still within range after 4-5000 miles. I'm fairly sure it'd be below the acceptable range after 7500 but am not willing to run it that long to find out. Because Subaru makes you use 5w30 to keep warranty coverage now the only solution is to run it but change it often. UOA Below acceptable values after 5000 http://205.243.146.146/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2382479 This one is right on the low end after only 3200 miles http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2286448 sanchez fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Mar 7, 2012 |
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Mar 7, 2012 16:27
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sanchez posted:Because Subaru makes you use 5w30 to keep warranty coverage now the only solution is to run it but change it often. Can you point me towards where is states this? I bought a used Outback that fell under the Subaru CPO warranty, and I want to make sure I don't have any issues while it's under warranty.
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Mar 7, 2012 16:41
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Falco posted:Can you point me towards where is states this? I bought a used Outback that fell under the Subaru CPO warranty, and I want to make sure I don't have any issues while it's under warranty. Sorry, I was being 2011 and presumably 2012 WRX specific, not sure what the deal is with anything else.
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Mar 7, 2012 16:44
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sanchez posted:I think it's more of a 5w30 than a Mobil 1 problem. My Subaru 5w30 synthetic is on the thin side but still within range after 4-5000 miles. I'm fairly sure it'd be below the acceptable range after 7500 but am not willing to run it that long to find out. Because Subaru makes you use 5w30 to keep warranty coverage now the only solution is to run it but change it often. I think you are probably right. I just got my STi last summer and changed the oil at 1k miles and then after every autocross, starting autocross around 1.6k miles. I changed it three times between 1.6 and 3.1, and then put less than 800 miles on the car since November. I plan to change it again this weekend, over to the Amsoil, and I’m sure with autocrossing here in the desert heat I’ll be changing it frequently enough to avoid loss of properties. I would prefer to run a 5W40 especially considering how hot it is here, but for warranty purposes I do not. When I go get tuned finally I will switch to 5W40 because I might be screwed anyway. I’m beginning to believe that a simple stage one accessport tune plus an intake can be hidden from the dealer, whether I would try to commit warranty fraud, I’m not sure. That another discussion though. Two questions: Has anyone ever read about Subaru getting a UOA for a car and claiming their oil wasn’t compliant with the warranty specs? I feel like this has been covered in this thread with respect to Magnusson/Moss, but it kind of seems to me that if you don’t follow the recommended oil they could rightfully bone you. Second, how often do people who do autocross change their oil? Before or after every event? After two events? I quantify one event as a full weekend of racing. Another note to the original poster of the oil question for the 03 WRX: I had a K&N filter in my garage but returned it and bought the Honeywell/Fram/Whatever Canadian made (?) blue Subaru oil filter because it turns out none of the aftermarket oil filters for my car have the right by pass valve pressure rating. The factory RX-8 filter made by the apparently awesome (no personal experience) Tokyo Roki is said to fit with the correct by pass valve rating and is also bigger. Bigger may or may not be better, although I don’t really know. I’m thinking pressure head for the oil pump pushing oil through more filter media. It seems like close enough of a wash to me to just use the Subaru filter.
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Mar 7, 2012 16:49
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I've heard the same thing about Mobile 1. People love to say "it shears down quickly" though I don't believe half of them know anything about shear in a liquid and less than 1% have seen and can provide UOA to show a substantial loss of properties. Let me know how you like Amsoil, I am looking to get Subaru oil though. Is there a site I can buy it at or do I have to buy it from a dealer?
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Mar 7, 2012 17:42
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