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fwiw i would never buy a late-90s/early-00s F150 ever again (that one was a 2000). I bought it with a little under 70k miles on it, did all the routine maintenance, and that fucker still started falling apart at 100k miles. I don't think I ever want another pickup truck unless it's practical for whatever I'm doing in life.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:26
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Yeah this thing is obnoxiously loud even though it's just a 600w amp and single 12" sub. I don't intend on keeping it to intense because I don't like it and neither does dakota when it's cranked. It sounds great though.
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Dec 30, 2015 19:39
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I plan on never hauling anything or working on a farm but boy I can't wait to get the f9050 turbo diesel
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Dec 30, 2015 19:43
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Nm
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Dec 30, 2015 20:21
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I barely know anything about cars, but I've got a 96 Dodge Ram 1500 that was my main vehicle for a while. I don't know how it still runs, but it does spew white smoke out the tailpipe after starting up for about 5 minutes  . I'd really like to fix it up and make it nice, take it out to the mountains and go fishing with my dad before he gets too old.
Mike-o fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 20:30
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Mike-o posted:I barely know anything about cars, but I've got a 95 Dodge Ram 1500 that was my main vehicle for a while. I don't know how it still runs, but it does spew white smoke out the tailpipe after starting up for about 5 minutes Probably a crack in the head gasket letting oil leak into the cylinders as it sits. When you start up that burns off as a huge white cloud, then everything heats up and expands, sealing the crack. For now; if it gets worse poo poo will get real bad, real fast. Ask me about the Bronco I had where the oil ended up brown and foamy because of this. (it was a $500 beater that lasted me a year. Zero fucks were given)
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Dec 30, 2015 20:33
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Cole posted:I had four 12s in my f150. I was definitely "that guy" and it loving ruled. I still have the Mmats 2000 amp. Possibly the most white trash thing I have seen this year
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Dec 30, 2015 20:35
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Teflon Don posted:Possibly the most white trash thing I have seen this year It was way too expensive to be white trash. More like white people who have too much money at 17 years old. But you can thank my dad for kicking the bucket and leaving me a bunch of money for that. Only thing he ever did for me!
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Dec 30, 2015 20:38
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My last car was a base model 4 cylinder tacoma that is the only vehicle I have ever owned that was 100% reliable during my ownership. I don't really need a truck, because let's get real, you can put a dead deer on a roof rack or in a trunk, too, but I really just want another indestructible toyota truck. My worst was the mazda b2200 I had in high school that I bought for $120. It leaked so much oil that my landlord at the time used to give me the dirty oil he'd change out of his boats and I would just put that poo poo through my truck's engine. Ran fine other than being a massive environmental hazard right up until I abandoned it and went to navy boot camp. edit: My mom told me some mexicans bought it from her for $300 a couple months later, so hopefully those guys got that main seal fixed or whatever US Berder Patrol fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 30, 2015 20:38
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You can take Cole out of an enlistment, but you'll never take the enlisted out of Cole.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:43
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I own a 04 F250 Diesel. Well my wife is the sole driver of it so she can haul horses/do horse things, but it's in my name. So yeah, I own a big truck, I rule.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:47
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SumYungGui posted:Probably a crack in the head gasket letting oil leak into the cylinders as it sits. When you start up that burns off as a huge white cloud, then everything heats up and expands, sealing the crack. For now; if it gets worse poo poo will get real bad, real fast. Confirmed definite headgasket symptom. We bought a 95 Taurus station wagon in '06 that had < 50k miles and was minty showroom shape. (Ask me about the previous 2 women owners who both died of cancer while that car sat garaged) Like clockwork, that headgasket gave out right at 50,000- it was an admitted Ford issue, which they would recall and fix as long as you notified them within 10 years of manufacture......(sadtrombones.com) Got it fixed though.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:50
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EVA BRAUN BLOWJOBS posted:You can take Cole out of an enlistment, but you'll never take the enlisted out of Cole. If only you could see how frugal I am living now.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:53
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Mr. Mambold posted:Confirmed definite headgasket symptom. We bought a 95 Taurus station wagon in '06 that had < 50k miles and was minty showroom shape. (Ask me about the previous 2 women owners who both died of cancer while that car sat garaged) Like clockwork, that headgasket gave out right at 50,000- it was an admitted Ford issue, which they would recall and fix as long as you notified them within 10 years of manufacture......(sadtrombones.com) Well, blow head gasket or cracked cylinder head. Can't tell from symptoms, have to pull it apart to see which is which.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:57
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Stultus Maximus posted:Well, blow head gasket or cracked cylinder head. Can't tell from symptoms, have to pull it apart to see which is which. Conceded. Either way is deep-poo poo repair syndrome.
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Dec 30, 2015 21:01
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Probably better to not drive it for now then. It spews out the white smoke, but also rumbles and shakes like gently caress for the first minute and when I step on the gas. That smooths out over time too though.
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Dec 30, 2015 21:06
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I'm thinking about getting a 4 wheel drive jeep soon with winter approaching. Maybe one ~10 years old if I can find it under 100k miles and cheap enough to pay cash E: lol with winter "approaching" on December 30th. Been like 70 degrees here.
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Dec 30, 2015 21:09
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Teflon Don posted:Possibly the most
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Dec 30, 2015 21:54
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Burning oil is bluish. White smoke is antifreeze, which is actually worse. Nthing probable head gasket as already described. Oil just burns off and wrecks your emissions numbers, but when antifreeze hits the hot piston top it actually can cause pitting and damage that looks like its melting the metal. Depending on the engine, you might be able to do the job yourself with a torque wrench as your most advanced tool. A shop will probably charge $1500 or so. I've got a JBL amp/MTX 12" sub sitting in my garage with no prospect of being used anytime soon. Really should throw it on craigslist for $100 or so just to get rid of it.
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Dec 31, 2015 00:39
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Guess I need to get off my rear end and read that haynes manual and learn some poo poo. Idgaf if I gently caress something up, and from what I've been looking at it's pretty straightforward to disconnect some poo poo and get at the head gaskets for my truck.
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Dec 31, 2015 01:07
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Some folks have way too much time on their hands. http://i.imgur.com/zNJ4r1g.webm
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Dec 31, 2015 01:08
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Mike-o posted:Guess I need to get off my rear end and read that haynes manual and learn some poo poo. Idgaf if I gently caress something up, and from what I've been looking at it's pretty straightforward to disconnect some poo poo and get at the head gaskets for my truck. If you're confusing the valve cover gaskets for the head gaskets boy are you in for a surprise
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Dec 31, 2015 01:43
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Nope. I know it'll be way harder to get all that poo poo off (not just the covers) but I've got time and money and don't give a gently caress if I gently caress it all up.
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Dec 31, 2015 01:51
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Mike-o posted:Nope. I know it'll be way harder to get all that poo poo off (not just the covers) but I've got time and money and don't give a gently caress if I gently caress it all up. the dumbest loving mouthbreathers you can imagine make their livings doing it, just be patient and organized and you'll be ok
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Dec 31, 2015 01:52
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One of the reasons I want a jeep is because I hear the v6s are easy to work on.
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Dec 31, 2015 01:54
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Mike-o posted:Nope. I know it'll be way harder to get all that poo poo off (not just the covers) but I've got time and money and don't give a gently caress if I gently caress it all up. Get a torque wrench, find the correct #'s pound-pressure wise, keep notes of what you took off in what order, and goonspeed. As mentioned, there could be other collateral damage to the motor- but it sounds like it never overheated terribly- get the heads surfaced....I can't recall all the poo poo you'll need to do. and also, there's no guarantee all will be well after.
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Dec 31, 2015 01:56
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Cole posted:One of the reasons I want a jeep is because I hear the v6s are easy to work on. Get an 06 with the inline 6 and you won't even have to work on it.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:02
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Cole posted:One of the reasons I want a jeep is because I hear the v6s are easy to work on. I6, not V6. The inline 4.0 is virtually indestructable and dirt-simple. The V6 that replaced it (3.8L) was just as slow and inefficient but without the aftermarket/junkyard support or reliability. I've got the current V6 (3.6L) which replaced the 3.8...almost 300 hp and a beautiful torque curve, but at 3 years/62,000 miles I'm looking at a possible warranty replacement of the left cylinder head due to factory defect (known and has a dedicated extended warranty) and probably replacing the radiator, oil cooler, and heater core due to another factory defect that is not covered by warranty so unless I can sweet-talk some 25 year old dude who's the Chrysler case manager into cutting me a deal on the cost of repairs, I'll be paying for that out of pocket. You could say I'm having mixed emotions on this engine. Edit: Mike-o, what engine does your truck have?
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Dec 31, 2015 02:05
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Cole posted:One of the reasons I want a jeep is because I hear the v6s are easy to work on. I think you mean the inline-6. Mr. Mambold posted:Get a torque wrench, find the correct #'s pound-pressure wise, keep notes of what you took off in what order, and goonspeed.  Taking off a cylinder head isn't hard to do, but it is super easy to gently caress up if you don't know what you're doing. Find a message board dedicated to whatever you drive, and you're pretty much guaranteed to find a DIY walkthrough complete with pictures.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:05
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Cole posted:One of the reasons I want a jeep is because I hear the v6s are easy to work on. What, the newer V6 penta star or do you mean the old straight 6? edit: wow, beaten like a red headed stepchild
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Dec 31, 2015 02:07
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Godholio posted:I6, not V6. The inline 4.0 is virtually indestructable and dirt-simple. The V6 that replaced it (3.8L) was just as slow and inefficient but without the aftermarket/junkyard support or reliability. I've got the current V6 (3.6L) which replaced the 3.8...almost 300 hp and a beautiful torque curve, but at 3 years/62,000 miles I'm looking at a possible warranty replacement of the left cylinder head due to factory defect (known and has a dedicated extended warranty) and probably replacing the radiator, oil cooler, and heater core due to another factory defect that is not covered by warranty so unless I can sweet-talk some 25 year old dude who's the Chrysler case manager into cutting me a deal on the cost of repairs, I'll be paying for that out of pocket. You could say I'm having mixed emotions on this engine. 5.9L V8 for the 1996 ram 1500
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Dec 31, 2015 02:11
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Godholio posted:I've got the current V6 (3.6L) which replaced the 3.8...almost 300 hp and a beautiful torque curve, but at 3 years/62,000 miles I'm looking at a possible warranty replacement of the left cylinder head due to factory defect (known and has a dedicated extended warranty) and probably replacing the radiator, oil cooler, and heater core due to another factory defect that is not covered by warranty 
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Dec 31, 2015 02:16
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Yeah I meant the inline 6. Whoops.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:25
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Rad Lieutenant posted:Get an 06 with the inline 6 and you won't even have to work on it. you must have missed all my posts about how mine was a total hunk of poo poo and cost over $6k in repairs
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Dec 31, 2015 02:53
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Dad chat: Cogged belt on my carpet cleaner broke. Manufacture site (bissell) is out of stock Ordered from a 3rd party, wait 3 weeks on shipping and when I finally call it magically goes out that day Get belt, wrong belt. I thought both sides had the same but the left side has a belt that goes to the motor gear. Right side holds the brushes togetjer (and left side is exactly the same) The belt I need is like 5mm longer. Why the gently caress can't they be the same size? Being old sucks
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Dec 31, 2015 03:21
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ded posted:you must have missed all my posts about how mine was a total hunk of poo poo and cost over $6k in repairs Weird. I've never heard any complaints about the 4.0 My XJ had close to 300k miles with only regular oil changes and the thing that finally killed it was a speeding u haul
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Dec 31, 2015 03:39
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Dad chat: We've had good luck with our Shark. It's been about 18 months of hard use. Now that I've praised it I'm sure it's gonna bust tomorrow.
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Dec 31, 2015 03:53
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It's my fault for letting some rear end in a top hat borrow it who couldn't have the decency to vacuum first. Oh I checked a local store too and they had the belt for the old model (which is seriously within 1/2" the size COME ON I know this is whitepeopleproblems but why do manufactures have to use different sizes for poo poo that is right next to eachother. Within reason of course. Screws, bolts, belts Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Dec 31, 2015 |
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Dec 31, 2015 04:00
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Dad chat: loving hell, this is the day bissel carpet cleaners go upstream to die. (we went to walmart and got another after the wife fought it all day, then gave up) It's the big red one, and the only thing wrong is it won't spray. You're welcome to any parts if it matches.
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Dec 31, 2015 04:06
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Yeah. The cylinder head issue is related to valve seats/guides on cylinder #2. The problem manifests as a check engine light for #2 misfire, which I've had intermittently but the codes aren't being stored so by the time I've gotten to the dealer there's nothing for them to work with. I think Chrysler is covering this issue for 100k miles; the third version of the cylinder head (part number ends in AC instead of AA and AB) appears to have resolved it. It's fairly common on Pentastars manufactured up through about March 2012 (mine was Feb), across Jeep and Chrysler. The coolant issue is due to casting sand leftover in the engine block's water jackets, where the coolant flows through the engine. Eventually it gets flushed out and collects in the tiny passages in the radiator, oil cooler, and heater core. *Note: this is what stop-leak does too...by design. Don't use that poo poo!* The sand effectively closes off sections of these heat exchangers, and sometimes collects in the overflow bottle. My bottle seems clear, but I've definitely got mud built up under the radiator cap and the service guy outright said there was sand and gunk in the system when they flushed it. My problem manifested by the driver's side vents not blowing hot air, only cold. From left to right, each vent gets a little warmer, but when this thing was new the heater was like a loving furnace. Now I keep a pack of handwarmers in the console so I can drop them in my gloves if I have to drive more than an hour away. My cruise control is also not working, despite a new switch (which is what the 4 codes in the computer said was bad). I can deal with this. No heat on a monthly thousand mile round trip drive through sub-freezing temperatures kind of sucks though. So does being stuck with the bill even though they know it's a factory problem.
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Dec 31, 2015 04:30
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