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Acid Reflux posted:You did a fine job on that.  beatenErr what a grind turn of events. But seriously that looks cool as hell.
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Jan 14, 2018 19:23
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For people who are concerned about their Lack enclosure catching on fire, you could always install one of these inside: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nyC48QdLSCo
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Jan 15, 2018 07:59
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Are Lack enclosure fires a documented problem? I'd assume if it's sealed well enough, that the fire would run out of oxidizer quite quickly.
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Jan 15, 2018 20:50
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Been printing 24/7 in a Lack enclosure with my Monoprice Mini for weeks without issue. Line it with flame retardant material if you worry that much. Another decent alternative is an old filing cabinet, could probably find one at the local Goodwill for less than 20bux.
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Jan 15, 2018 23:39
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What are the current good boards to buy if you're going to attempt to make your own 3d printer? I know about the RAMPS and the Duet, are there any others worth looking into? Edit: seeing as I'm doing this, any other recommended 'best' parts/components? Nema 17 motors seem like the hot choice at the moment. Keket fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 19:10
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One of the Smoothieboards or the ARCHIM maybe. Or the Einsy Rambo whenever it's available.
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Jan 16, 2018 19:17
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I've got an odd issue lately. I'm trying to print a large part, the base is a hollow cylinder that is nearly the entire size of my 10" bed. Because of this, I'm opting to print it at 400 micron using my .8mm nozzle. I've printed successfully a lot with this before, but I'm having a difficult time with my first layer. The issue is that my layer height is not uniform, there are some points (often at the beginning/end of a line, but not necessarily) that bubble up, or are otherwise slightly higher. This causes catastrophic issues once it comes back for the second layer. It catches the nozzle, which will never have a chance to put down the next layer correctly. What do I need to focus on to troubleshoot this? What do you work on to get an even, flat layer?
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Jan 16, 2018 23:30
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Beds are never actually flat, and thicker layers exacerbate any issues from printing without a raft. Hard to say without observing your print and machine but I'd guess that first layer isn't mushed down enough and due to the above issues it results in lifting/not bonding enough. If it were my machine I'd first try increasing bed temperature if things looked OK otherwise (I get better bonding on buildtak with higher temps) but who knows with yours. I can say that when printing with my 0.8mm nozzle I found that 0.3mm layer height was the top end I settled on for "garden hose extrusion" style prints. I know I tried 0.4mm but backed away from it because performance wasn't there, don't remember the details offhand. Mathematically 0.4mm should be "fine" as it's half the dia of the nozzle but in practice it was not. It's was easier and more reliable to go 0.25mm layers on a 0.4mm nozzle than it was to go 0.4mm layers on a 0.8mm nozzle.
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Jan 16, 2018 23:47
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Revol posted:I've got an odd issue lately. I'm trying to print a large part, the base is a hollow cylinder that is nearly the entire size of my 10" bed. Because of this, I'm opting to print it at 400 micron using my .8mm nozzle. I've printed successfully a lot with this before, but I'm having a difficult time with my first layer. The issue is that my layer height is not uniform, there are some points (often at the beginning/end of a line, but not necessarily) that bubble up, or are otherwise slightly higher. This causes catastrophic issues once it comes back for the second layer. It catches the nozzle, which will never have a chance to put down the next layer correctly. If you're using Cura there is an option to change the first layer thickness, but you have to enable it under your preferences (Settings -> Quality -> Initial layer height). Another thing that helped me was jacking up the bed heat for the first few layers, which helped it stick. Slowing down your printing speed for the first layer might also help. ed: A brim instead of a skirt also helped.
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Jan 17, 2018 02:10
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My bed is terribly not level. I solve this issue printing on a raft. Works every time
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Jan 17, 2018 10:43
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Mofabio posted:Are Lack enclosure fires a documented problem? I'd assume if it's sealed well enough, that the fire would run out of oxidizer quite quickly. Under the top layer, Lack is just wood and cardboard.  fuel and kindling yay
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Jan 17, 2018 11:17
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Yeah Lack furniture is like a step removed from Aerogel. It's ~98% air
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Jan 17, 2018 17:17
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biracial bear for uncut posted:One of the Smoothieboards or the ARCHIM maybe. Surprise! It's available! https://ultimachine.com/products/einsy-rambo-1-1
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Jan 18, 2018 01:29
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bring back old gbs posted:Yeah Lack furniture is like a step removed from Aerogel. It's ~98% air The entire Lack line of furniture is the unholy cost-savings lovechild of cheap plastic veneer, particleboard, and cardboard boxes. There is a very good reason why they can sell you a $10 end table, and it's because it has more in common with a pizza box than it does to a real wood table.
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Jan 18, 2018 01:44
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It's an extremely well-designed product (i.e.: it meets its goals, primarily "works as an end table" and "costs $9.99") and it's a fascinating example of how to use unorthodox materials to the edge of their capacity in a role you'd never expect them to fill. The structural components of the product are literally made of cardboard and sawdust. What it is not is a very good piece of furniture.
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Jan 18, 2018 01:48
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God yes, from an objective metric of "incredibly cheap 'furniture' you can use to fill your college dorm", it's amazing. From a structural design, and a design for manufacture standpoint, it's an astonishing use of cheap materials and ultra modern design and fabrication tech to produce a product that meets it's design goals as cheaply as possible. They honeycomb mesh they use as a stiffener is normally a technique used for aerospace or defense applications, and they used the same technique to make your college dorm furniture cheaper. What was apparently not high on the list was 'robustness' or 'long term use', because if you get it wet or hit it slightly too hard, it sorta delaminates and falls apart on you. Which rolls back to the 'a place to put your beers that is as cheap to manufacture as modern science can accomplish'. In actual 3d printer news, if your cheapo glass CR-10s bed isn't level, you can get a 6-pack of 12" square mirrors from Home Depot for like $10 and never have to deal with a bowed print bed again.
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Jan 18, 2018 02:28
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Revol posted:I've got an odd issue lately. I'm trying to print a large part, the base is a hollow cylinder that is nearly the entire size of my 10" bed. Because of this, I'm opting to print it at 400 micron using my .8mm nozzle. I've printed successfully a lot with this before, but I'm having a difficult time with my first layer. The issue is that my layer height is not uniform, there are some points (often at the beginning/end of a line, but not necessarily) that bubble up, or are otherwise slightly higher. This causes catastrophic issues once it comes back for the second layer. It catches the nozzle, which will never have a chance to put down the next layer correctly. 
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Jan 18, 2018 02:42
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EngineerJoe posted:Surprise! It's available! It does have some caveats that I notice:
All in all, if you're looking to make an identical MK3 clone in all respects, it is perfect. If you're looking at it as a more generalized solution, you may find that you're going to have to adapt a few other pieces of your hardware to be compatible.
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Jan 18, 2018 14:28
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I'm debating 3D print policy with a coworker. Our new lab has two Lulzbot Taz 6 printers, which is an upgrade from the old Lulzbot Mini we had. He was told by a faculty member that we can't have them powered on overnight. I've run a number of 8 hour prints with no problems and am saying that overnight prints should be OK as long as a staff member checks that there's enough filament, the gcode is compiled with the the right settings for the filament, and the print is going well for the first hour or two. Am I stupid to say that overnight printing will be safe?
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Jan 18, 2018 18:16
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I've been using a Peopoly Moai printer for about a month. It produces unbelievably detailed prints, but today I finally discovered the failings of resin prints - too brittle. Tried making an articulated figure with ball joints. The ball joint cups basically explode when you try to pop the ball in. I've tried a bunch of variations on the design but this stuff has zero flex. Might have to mix regular FDM joints in with these parts!
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Jan 18, 2018 18:33
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GWBBQ posted:I'm debating 3D print policy with a coworker. Our new lab has two Lulzbot Taz 6 printers, which is an upgrade from the old Lulzbot Mini we had. He was told by a faculty member that we can't have them powered on overnight. I've run a number of 8 hour prints with no problems and am saying that overnight prints should be OK as long as a staff member checks that there's enough filament, the gcode is compiled with the the right settings for the filament, and the print is going well for the first hour or two. Am I stupid to say that overnight printing will be safe? It's not unreasonable to have someone or a virtual "someone" on firewatch if it's long term unattended prints if the worry is about a malfunction or something, but yes if the print starts well and has enough filament then normally things go as you say.
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Jan 18, 2018 18:40
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GWBBQ posted:I'm debating 3D print policy with a coworker. Our new lab has two Lulzbot Taz 6 printers, which is an upgrade from the old Lulzbot Mini we had. He was told by a faculty member that we can't have them powered on overnight. I've run a number of 8 hour prints with no problems and am saying that overnight prints should be OK as long as a staff member checks that there's enough filament, the gcode is compiled with the the right settings for the filament, and the print is going well for the first hour or two. Am I stupid to say that overnight printing will be safe? I'm not gonna personally take a side but the author of octoprint posted to this thread saying never leave your printer running unattended because of fire risks
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Jan 18, 2018 19:50
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Synthbuttrange posted:Under the top layer, Lack is just wood and cardboard. Sorry, are people in this thread complaining about a product made with solid outer layers and a honeycomb like infill?...
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Jan 18, 2018 19:55
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Tomarse posted:Sorry, are people in this thread complaining about a product made with solid outer layers and a honeycomb like infill?... Complaining? No. Mentioning that they're flammable? Yes.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:07
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I got the joke...
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Jan 18, 2018 20:20
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Blackchamber posted:I got the joke... Me too
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Jan 18, 2018 20:22
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i don't
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Jan 18, 2018 20:26
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Harvey Baldman posted:I've been using a Peopoly Moai printer for about a month. It produces unbelievably detailed prints, but today I finally discovered the failings of resin prints - too brittle. Tried making an articulated figure with ball joints. The ball joint cups basically explode when you try to pop the ball in. I've tried a bunch of variations on the design but this stuff has zero flex. Might have to mix regular FDM joints in with these parts! Yeah. I'm going to go out on a limb and say resin printers' niche is going to get smaller and smaller over the coming decades. The range of material properties available to thermoplastics dwarfs that of UV cured resins. There was a great deal of research effort in the latter half of the 20th century to discover organic polymers, few stones left unturned, and the result was dozens of thermoplastics and few resins. In terms of detail, it's a positioning and hydraulic energy problem. Thermoplastics are capable of arbitrary fineness (think about like, polyester thread, micron-thick, with excellent diameter control). Resin printer prototypes can print quickly but, so can thermoplastics in injection molds (again, it's a hydraulic energy problem). I think I read this in the fusion energy thread here years ago, but, scientific endeavors must overcome 3 barriers: the materials, the physics, and the engineering, in decreasing order of difficulty. Resin printers are stuck with bad materials, the hardest to overcome -- the universe just might not have strong, or high-tensile, or low water absorption, or high-temp, or chem resistant resins. There might not ever exist a PEEK or PTFE resin because it can't physically exist. The physics challenges are similar, perhaps slightly more difficult for modeling thermoplastic prints (shrinkage and polymer chain direction). There are great engineering opportunities, being investigated today at lab-scale, for high-pressure FFF prints with experimental dies, >3 axis prints, to someday match resin detail. I think resin shows the potential of the manufacturing method but will remain a niche endeavor.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:53
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Tomarse posted:Sorry, are people in this thread complaining about a product made with solid outer layers and a honeycomb like infill?... nobody even mentioned ITS BIODEGRADABLE!!!
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Jan 18, 2018 21:04
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Just to throw it out there, what would be a good idea to have safely unattended prints? Thermal shutoff of power to the whole thing, fireproof enclosure, thermally activated extinguisher spray?
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Jan 18, 2018 22:25
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mewse posted:I'm not gonna personally take a side but the author of octoprint posted to this thread saying never leave your printer running unattended because of fire risks If I remember correctly, that was in the context of cheap printers like Anet A8 and friends. In general I stand by this advice, especially if you don't have much experience with electronics and can't judge if a connection looks fishy or not (which is probably true for the majority of printer owners these days). That's btw something that people usually misunderstand - the main fire hazard of 3d printers doesn't come from the hotend or the bed overheating and igniting something but rather some terminal, wire or even a pcb trace somewhere in the mix not being rated for the current going through it and heating up enough in the process to catch fire. Considering the currents involved for bringing your 210x210mm or larger bed up to temps at what is commonly still only 12V, that shouldn't be that surprising a risk. And once such a fire gets started, cutting the power remotely won't necessarily make it go out again. With that being said: I have left the house while a print was running, as I do trust my own printers to a degree (additional plus: their beds are 24V). And a brand name printer is usually not equivalent to a cheap one when it comes to used components and quality control. Nevertheless I have a fire extinguisher mounted to my printer table - I simply saw too many pictures of burnt printer electronics the past years to not have that in place just in case, especially since the place I'm forced to keep it as a simple apartment dweller isn't optimal from a fire safety perspective. In the end it boils down to: do your homework, check your electronics, make your own decision based on your results and then stand by it. It's your responsibility.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:42
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Here's my finished enclosure Sitting on a small concrete pad which is then sitting on a small rubber mat. Basically zero vibration issues now. Mounted in the upper left is a pi zero with camera for remote monitoring. 4 Led lights mounted on the top give plenty of light for working on the printer and being able to see it at all times. Plenty of room at the top for the Z axis to move all the way to the top and the filament not to get tangled or caught up or anything. Yes I know the front door isn't the correct size, gently caress up on my part but it works.
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Jan 19, 2018 00:27
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Awesome build dude. Love the lighting too. Do any test ABS prints? Correctly built, an enclosure should reduce risk of fire, not increase it. If you use fireproof insulation, or metal, or any other non-organic or fireproof lining, and it is sufficiently sealed, it should delay the fire from ever reaching the combustible portions of the enclosure, until enough oxidizer is consumed to snuff it out. Those spray fire suppressors are overkill, imo.
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Jan 19, 2018 04:41
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Stick a baton on the inside of that door along the top and pretend it’s a feature  I leave my printer running when I am out but it is a xyz jr with plastic enclosure. The only dodgy electronics are my heated bed...
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Jan 19, 2018 11:36
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Mofabio posted:Awesome build dude. Love the lighting too. Do any test ABS prints? I’ve only had the printer a few weeks and still printing with PLA, dunno if I’m ready to move onto new materials yet lol
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Jan 19, 2018 13:03
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I have a similar setup to that one, but my walls are 1/4in pressure treated ply. Woodworking and 3D printing complement each other very well. I am concerned that my Mono Mini may not fit after I increase the build size to 250x250x200mm, but I can always remove the internals and mount them elsewhere. It has an awfully large base enclosure that is very, very empty. Could've integrated the power supply at least.
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Jan 19, 2018 14:53
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Overthinking things terribly, but I'm at the point of thinking of thermal cutoffs, steel enclosure and something like https://www.htgsupply.com/products/the-watch-dog-automatic-fire-extinguisher-2-kg at the top of the enclosure. I guess I'm just swinging from risk tolerant to risk averse the more I think about it.
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Jan 19, 2018 16:12
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They're spendy, but these cover larger ranges. I had one save my VW bus from a potential catastrophic fire when a carburetor fuel barb popped out, and if you install them above the table your 3D printer is on it protects the whole area: https://www.blazecutusa.com/collections/blazecut-for-vehicles/products/blazecut-for-vehicles When I got mine back when it was only $100 but now even at $150 it's a good investment.
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Jan 19, 2018 17:35
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Also spendy, but my solution was 4" thick rockwool for, iirc, $60. However the enclosure used approx $10 worth. Rockwool is sound-dampening and fireproof, and my enclosure gets up to around 70C (I do ABS exclusively). Rockwool is primo insulation so perhaps patrons of your local makerspace could split the difference. I actually did have a small fire that killed my AZSMZ board, although if I was looking at it I doubt I'd have even noticed. It was caused by using solid-core wire in a screw terminal. I thought I was being clever when I 'flattened' the wire end with a c-clamp. Always use stranded!
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Jan 19, 2018 19:14
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A condensed aerosol fire suppression system would be perfect for an enclosure if they were more readily available.
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Jan 19, 2018 23:50
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