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Blarfo posted:My dog somehow managed to get a baby bird in her mouth. The bird didn't seem entirely harmed, but we're trying to find a number for a nearby humane/something to take care of it. Generally if you're wondering if you should take a dog to the vet for something, you should call the vets themselves, give them the symptoms and see what they say. That said, I'm pretty sure dogs don't get infected from delicately mouthing a live baby bird for 15 seconds. You know dogs eat poop barf and stuff, right?
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May 30, 2012 03:24
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Hey, sorry I missed this. I've been traveling and using mobile internet, and it kind of sucks.Toriori posted:I see. She hasn't been acting at all out of the ordinary otherwise so this is a huge surprise to us. I checked her ears just now and they look okay, when my JRT had an ear infection it was pretty obvious from the snapping of his head, scratching and malaise but Presthe basset seems regular. I'm going to keep an eye on her behaviour and see if I can get her into the vet for a check up. Could it be the weather? Last week it rained off and on, and we've had consistent heavy rain/thunderstorms since Saturday where I live. We had a few Bassets growing up, and all were affected by thunderstorms. I don't know if it is a breed thing or we were just unlucky. I guess it would be hard for me to say more without knowing if this is typical weather for you. If you don't often get storms like that, I'd say it could definitely be a factor, either from an emotional thing like fear of thunder, or a physical thing like dampness affecting arthritis (though she seems a bit young for that). One of our Bassets even didn't like going outside when it had been raining because the wet grass touching her belly bothered her. When she had a bit of pea gravel to go on, she was fine. I hope things are going well with her now. Bassets are really temperamental dogs in my experience, but they're lovely. I want to get a rescue Basset again someday when my lifestyle fits it a bit better.
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May 30, 2012 06:28
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It's been 8 days since our lab cross Stella got spayed and the lack of being able to run and jump is starting to make her act a bit batty. The vet said I should wait until Tuesday before I can let her run off-leash again. She's still really bad on-leash so while we're doing a lot of leash training in the backyard/beside the house taking her for a long walk isn't really a solution because we have to stop every two steps and even then I feel like every time I take her out somewhere interesting she's just reinforcing herself to ignore me and pull. Any suggestions?
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May 30, 2012 14:38
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prom candy posted:It's been 8 days since our lab cross Stella got spayed and the lack of being able to run and jump is starting to make her act a bit batty. The vet said I should wait until Tuesday before I can let her run off-leash again. She's still really bad on-leash so while we're doing a lot of leash training in the backyard/beside the house taking her for a long walk isn't really a solution because we have to stop every two steps and even then I feel like every time I take her out somewhere interesting she's just reinforcing herself to ignore me and pull. Any suggestions? Have you considered getting her a standard harness and allowing her to pull in that? A lot of dogs learn to differentiate between being walked on a harness (can pull) and on a flat collar (can't pull). If she's not able to go off-lead at all at the moment, she's going to need to get that energy out somehow.
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May 30, 2012 14:59
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Would that not reinforce "ignoring my owner on walks gets me great stuff! gently caress that guy, smell pee all day!"
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May 30, 2012 17:24
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prom candy posted:Would that not reinforce "ignoring my owner on walks gets me great stuff! gently caress that guy, smell pee all day!" I think the point Fraction was making is that many dogs learn behavior walking in a harness that they would not connect to walking with a collar, thus mitigating this problem.
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May 30, 2012 17:39
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My wife and I will be adopting a second cat (also a rescue). Where can I find some more information on successfully and safely getting the two comfortable with each other? Our current cat has been with us for over a year, and the new one is a stray that's we're picking up from a local shelter. We're so excited! 
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May 30, 2012 18:31
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prom candy posted:Would that not reinforce "ignoring my owner on walks gets me great stuff! gently caress that guy, smell pee all day!" Pretty much what Dogen said but just to reiterate: you'd still be doing training type walks on the flat collar, but allowing to pull on the harness when you're on walks just to help her chill out. If you're already having difficulty training loose leash, you could just pick up a front-clip harness and use that. It will naturally pull her back toward you if she pulls, but if you walk her on that instead of her flat collar you can allow her more space to move and not have to start-stop constantly.
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May 30, 2012 20:00
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Thanks for the previous advice on my semi-adopted border collie. I ordered him one of these so we'll see how we go with it: Now I have another question. He's a hairy dog. A really hairy dog. It's getting loving everywhere so I'm taking him to be clipped at the weekend. How short can I ask them to cut his hair without it upsetting him? At this stage I would happily shave him bald as long as he wouldn't mind it. Here's a couple of pics of him basically being a big hairy twat and getting hair everywhere:   And this is my preferred look after the clipping:  Alternative solution; make him wear a dressing gown to catch the hair: 
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May 30, 2012 21:15
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One of my dogs has become very over-protective of the other dog. Whenever I'm messing with him (bathing, clipping toenails, sometimes even just putting on a leash), she paces around with lots of panting and whimpers. Sometimes she bristles up the hair on her back and paws my legs, but if I correct her she'll stop. When I finish with him, or if he comes inside from a car ride, she'll pin him down and sniff him all over, again with the whining and bristling. She has 20 pounds on him so it's not difficult, but she doesn't hurt him and he doesn't seem to mind overly much. I'm more worried about her just being so anxious. She's always been a bit neurotic, I posted a thread a while back about fearful behavior and she's better towards me but seems to have transferred some of that anxiety to the other dog. (They are both fixed, she's about 6 years old and he's 4). There's the obvious solution of not grooming him within her sight but I wanted to address the behavior, and it's not always possible to keep them totally separate and out of eye contact with each other.
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May 30, 2012 21:18
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Sanford posted:Thanks for the previous advice on my semi-adopted border collie. I ordered him one of these so we'll see how we go with it: Don't do this. Your dog's coat protects him against heat and harmful, cancer-causing UV rays. Shaving it will ruin the texture, color and quality of his coat, and it will take months, if not years, to return to normal, during which time he'll be exposed to constant UV. Shaving is a recent 'Omg look at my dog lol' trend and it's useless in all aspects. To reduce shedding and keep him cool, bring him into a groomed and ask them to thin out his undercoat and give him a de-shed treatment. It'll remove all that excess hair and he still gets to look good and be healthy.
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May 30, 2012 21:32
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Captain Foxy posted:Don't do this. Your dog's coat protects him against heat and harmful, cancer-causing UV rays. Shaving it will ruin the texture, color and quality of his coat, and it will take months, if not years, to return to normal, during which time he'll be exposed to constant UV. Brilliant advice, thank you. The place I'm taking him has got a good reputation so I'm sure they'll know what they're doing. What about brushing? I think he would happily lie and let me brush him all day, but it doesn't seem to make him shed any less. Can I brush too much?
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May 30, 2012 21:38
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Sanford posted:Brilliant advice, thank you. The place I'm taking him has got a good reputation so I'm sure they'll know what they're doing. What about brushing? I think he would happily lie and let me brush him all day, but it doesn't seem to make him shed any less. Can I brush too much? The more you brush, the less hair you'll have around your house. As long as your brush isn't hurting (like pressing too hard with a slicker or something i guess) then I can't see how you could brush too much.
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May 30, 2012 21:46
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Sanford posted:Brilliant advice, thank you. The place I'm taking him has got a good reputation so I'm sure they'll know what they're doing. What about brushing? I think he would happily lie and let me brush him all day, but it doesn't seem to make him shed any less. Can I brush too much? This shedding season seems particularly bad. For my herder I use a shedding blade and a pin brush to work at the tangles and pick up loose fur. It works pretty well if you do it daily/weekly. Don't shave your dog.
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May 30, 2012 21:52
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Sanford posted:Brilliant advice, thank you. The place I'm taking him has got a good reputation so I'm sure they'll know what they're doing. What about brushing? I think he would happily lie and let me brush him all day, but it doesn't seem to make him shed any less. Can I brush too much? If you shave him, he won't shed less, he'll just shed little spiky coarse hair that magically appears in your food and on all of your stuff instead of long hair.
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May 30, 2012 22:30
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Fraction posted:Pretty much what Dogen said but just to reiterate: you'd still be doing training type walks on the flat collar, but allowing to pull on the harness when you're on walks just to help her chill out. Ah, I've heard that dogs don't generalize well but I didn't realize it went that far  We have one of those leashes that loops around underneath the dog's front legs but I usually just use it like a normal leash and don't loop it. Do you think it would be enough of a difference to loop when I'm going to let her do whatever and attach like normal when we're training or should I get some new hardware?
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May 30, 2012 23:01
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Sanford posted:Now I have another question. He's a hairy dog. A really hairy dog. It's getting loving everywhere so I'm taking him to be clipped at the weekend. How short can I ask them to cut his hair without it upsetting him? At this stage I would happily shave him bald as long as he wouldn't mind it. My husky chow is blowing out her winter coat at the moment also. It's pretty annoying. A professional grooming will help. I also bought myself one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-W6110-Grooming-Undercoat-Rotating/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1338415804&sr=1-1 Which is supposed to loosen up all the undercoat hair and get it out. Hair flys everywhere when I use it. 3 brushings a week make a big difference using that to loosen everything and then a slicker brush to get all the hair just sitting on top of her coat. I also went just bought one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Force-Steel-Commander-Variable/dp/B004UPTSUE/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1338416002&sr=1-9 I haven't had a chance to actually use it yet though. It's what the professional groomer uses to blow out the loose undercoat though. We'll see.
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May 30, 2012 23:14
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a life less posted:Don't shave your dog. I got that. I think I'm going to slick all his hair back with gel and make him look like a giant otter. Thanks for the advice, everyone!
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May 30, 2012 23:18
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prom candy posted:Ah, I've heard that dogs don't generalize well but I didn't realize it went that far You could also help further the different mindset by cuing her to pull whenever she's in the harness, and lightly/rarely cuing that when she's on a flat. I'm not sure exactly what you mean with regards to the leash, but it sounds like that would just move the leash. IMO you're better off just picking up a cheap harness and letting her pull on that to wear her out.
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May 30, 2012 23:18
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Sanford posted:Now I have another question. He's a hairy dog. A really hairy dog. It's getting loving everywhere so I'm taking him to be clipped at the weekend. How short can I ask them to cut his hair without it upsetting him? At this stage I would happily shave him bald as long as he wouldn't mind it. I've never shaved any of my dogs, but they do drop pretty much everything after puppies at which point I'm inclined to clip all the remaining longer hair. I'd say the result is maybe a half inch coat, which is something I'd go for, if I were to shave one of my dogs. Their coat is back to normal in maybe six months or a bit longer for furnishings, so it's a long process. But you need to know this is unaltered females I'm talking about. My experience with fixed dogs is that they shed constantly. The amount of loose hair varies, but it never seems to cease completely, which is what I get with my girls for about 10 months a year. (Unfortunately my girls don't shed in the same schedule, but according to their seasons, so with three dogs, I do have excess hair around for maybe five months a year, which is definitely more than enough.)
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May 30, 2012 23:28
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Sanford posted:Brilliant advice, thank you. The place I'm taking him has got a good reputation so I'm sure they'll know what they're doing. What about brushing? I think he would happily lie and let me brush him all day, but it doesn't seem to make him shed any less. Can I brush too much? If you think his coat will be easier to deal with short, shave him. If you don't end up liking it, don't do it again! Don't expect things you won't get from the shaving though. He won't shed less, he'll just shed shorter hairs (this may or may not be better for you, I found long hair got into food just as well or better than the short ones do). He may or may not stay any cooler, but it's definitely not something to count on. He will dry faster. He will be easier to find ticks on. He may or may not sunburn more easily (depends on his coat, his skin color, etc). He may or may not get cool too easily. I bought into all the "OMG don't shave him" stuff for our dog for a long time. But he had to have ~1/4 of his body shaved for medical reasons (attacked by another dog and they needed to clean him up/look for bite wounds) this past year and you know what, it grew back just fine, did not bother him in the slightest, and was easier to deal with in some ways. This year we bit the bullet and shaved him for the summer and we're completely happy with the results. I shaved him with a number 5 blade (which leaves hair ~1/4" long) and he honestly he just looks like a shorter haired dog (people who have just met him assume he is one). It doesn't bother him in the least and means he stays cleaner and dries faster so we are able to relax and let him have more fun when we go camping and hiking or take him to our friend's farm. He's not any worse off for cold or sun than the other dogs we hang around. And finding ticks (which have been a problem this year) is much easier than when his hair was long. I'm not saying shave your dog. Just that I think a lot of the hype about how evil shaving is is pretty overblown and that there ARE some benefits depending on your situation and what you want out of the shaving. And yes, it may take a while (I will diagree with years, months is reasonable and I can't see why anyone would expect it to grow back any faster than that) to grow back out. And until the hairs that you cut are replaced it may look different. But you aren't showing him so unless you have some special attachment to him looking exactly as he does now (which seems unlikely if you are interested in shaving him) I would not stress a whole ton about it.
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May 30, 2012 23:33
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Riiseli posted:I have three unaltered females with slightly different coats, but pretty much the only grooming tool I use is a flea comb. Other methods do get the fur of, but I'd rather not have it fly around and stick to my clothes, which happens with say a Furminator or a similar product. A flea comb's teeth are so close together the fur gets stuck in the comb, which naturally results in one having to pull it from the comb, but this is good as I like being able to stick them to a garbage bag as I go. http://youtu.be/oRImpshLzG0 Couldn't film a better one even if I wanted as we are getting to a point where nobody is shedding (yay!). Healy, who is in the video, is shedding the remainder of her coat after giving birth in February. Healy doesn't have the longest hair, but this does work with longer coats, too. It's best for the undercoat and for topcoats I might actually even use a rubber brush, which isn't quite as good about collecting the hair as a flea comb, but is not as bad as most other options either.
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May 31, 2012 00:24
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Ok, so a momma cat had some kittens here, sadly she passed away from poison, they're about a 3 weeks to a month, they have their fangs and everything. Anyway I've been giving them milk and such, I bought it at the vets office so I know its good, I bought some kitten chow as well but they vastly prefer the milk, I've been keeping on the schedule listed on the can(every 4 hours.) They seem to be getting more and more demanding in regards to milk, I'm just wondering if I should ignore them or just give them a bit more till they quiet down, I usually give them 3 tbsp(listed on the can as well), other times the kitten itself will stop me from giving them anymore.
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May 31, 2012 00:54
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Ceridwen posted:If you think his coat will be easier to deal with short, shave him. If you don't end up liking it, don't do it again! Don't expect things you won't get from the shaving though. He won't shed less, he'll just shed shorter hairs (this may or may not be better for you, I found long hair got into food just as well or better than the short ones do). He may or may not stay any cooler, but it's definitely not something to count on. He will dry faster. He will be easier to find ticks on. He may or may not sunburn more easily (depends on his coat, his skin color, etc). He may or may not get cool too easily. For double coated breeds, shaving absolutely does ruin the coat, its not alarmist to say so. Double coats are designed to guard against UV, so shaving entirely ruins that, and the outer guard hairs take a ridiculously long time to grow back, if they ever do. Mostly the roots are cut back too far, so the guard hairs grow back patchy and aren't as effective. Double coats protect against sunburns and possible melanomas; that's one of their primary functions, not just keeping them warm or cool. If you don't have a double coated dog, like herders or spitz, shaving isn't so terrible, but the DC breeds aren't okay to shave. Your dog is a retriever mix, so you're free to shave without ruining his coat, do what you choose, but I wouldn't apply your situation to others, it's just not the same. Even if I had a short coated breed, I still don't think I'd shave my dog, though. IMO, it's a silly fashion trend and the same results can be achieved through a nice close clip and regular brushing. The way I see it, shaving just encourages lax grooming. Captain Foxy fucked around with this message at 01:28 on May 31, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 01:24
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Alteisen posted:Ok, so a momma cat had some kittens here, sadly she passed away from poison, they're about a 3 weeks to a month, they have their fangs and everything. I would start trying to feed them "glop" - high quality kitten food (Wellness Kitten and Innova Cat and Kitten both treated my babies a lot better than Royal Canin Babycat did) mixed with your KMR. Feed through an oral syringe if you have to at first, and then try to get them to eat from a bowl. After than you can schedule feedings every 4-6 hours. At 5.5 weeks my babies eat 3x a day - a half a little can a day per kitten. They get 1/4 can in the morning after their 8-10 hour night, and then I split the second can in half for around a 4-5pm and a 10-11pm feeding depending on my schedule. I leave them with some dry food overnight because they seem to eat it an it's not giving them any issues. Don't forget to leave water down while they transition off the milk. If they get diarrhea during the transition that's ok. Hopefully within a week or two they'll be on solid food full time (still wet food!). If their diarrhea lasts more than a meal or two, check for signs of dehydration and give them some pedialyte or similar through an oral syringe. If its really persistent your vet can sell you a powder called fortiflora that will help give them beneficial gut bacteria. Go slow, but at 4 weeks they should be ready to get off the kmr, and bowl feedings will help them be less demanding of you. Yes, you can ignore them if you're sure they're done eating. Maybe give them a stuffed animal to redirect the desire for nursing/comfort onto?
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May 31, 2012 01:40
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Alteisen posted:Ok, so a momma cat had some kittens here, sadly she passed away from poison, they're about a 3 weeks to a month, they have their fangs and everything. If they're a month old they're just getting about old enough to start weaning them; they might be crying because the milk is leaving them still hungry. If they're not enthused about kitten chow, try mixing it with some of the milk to make a disgusting smelly slurry which kittens seem to enjoy.
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May 31, 2012 01:45
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So I have a dog. Her name is Wendy. She is 4 years old and an essential part of our family. She is a corgi/jack russel mix (if that matters). Anyhow, about a year ago we had a baby. Wendy doesn't like small children very much, and that goes especially for the baby. There have been a few instances of growling and such, but we've been pretty good on correcting that. Over the weekend, Wendy nipped the baby in the face. The kid is totally fine, he was more freaked out than anything, but it becomes increasingly evident that something needs to be done. Our first instict is to find a new home for Wendy. at the same time, it is very hard to let a member of our family go just like that. We're not willing to put the baby at risk for the sake of the dog but... aside from getting rid of her, what other reasonable options exist? Can you change something like that in a dog, or do we just need to pack up her stuff and send her on her way?
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May 31, 2012 03:14
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Roydrowsy posted:So I have a dog. Her name is Wendy. She is 4 years old and an essential part of our family. She is a corgi/jack russel mix (if that matters). Get a trainer. You need to change your management of the situation considerably. The dog and baby need enough space from each other that she never feels the need to correct your child. A nip shows that's she's pulling her punches, which suggests it's still a recoverable situation. Your corrections for her growling have probably just made her more unpredictable. Growling is wonderfully useful in this sort of situation because it telegraphs when the dog isn't comfortable and should be removed from the situation posthaste. So keep the baby away from the dog. Get the dog comfortable with a crate if she's not already, and use baby gates to separate the two. Keep her well-exercised and set aside 15 minutes a day to train obedience or tricks when your kid is sleeping or supervised in another room. A few links: http://www.doggonesafe.com/growling_at_the_kids http://www.doggonesafe.com/baby_safety_around_dogs http://www.doggonesafe.com/Baby_Grows_Up
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May 31, 2012 07:06
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Roydrowsy posted:So I have a dog. Her name is Wendy. She is 4 years old and an essential part of our family. She is a corgi/jack russel mix (if that matters). First up, seconding the suggestion for a professional trainer or behaviourist. Make sure you find one that ONLY uses positive reinforcement - in this case, punishment is only goin to make matters much, much worse. How were you 'correcting' her growling? As EL said growling is very useful, and if you've been suppressing it then of course her next reaction is going to be to escalate. You need to keep dog and baby seperated for now. Furthermore, Wendy is a mix of two dogs that are infamously nippy. Both corgis and jrts are bred to nip (to herd and to kill rats). Personally I think it'd be unfair to rehome your dog. If she's only nipped then the situation can be redeemed. Your dog didn't create the situation, so it is your responsibility to fix it (with a trainer or behaviourist's help).
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May 31, 2012 08:20
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Riiseli posted:I have three unaltered females with slightly different coats, but pretty much the only grooming tool I use is a flea comb. Other methods do get the fur of, but I'd rather not have it fly around and stick to my clothes, which happens with say a Furminator or a similar product. A flea comb's teeth are so close together the fur gets stuck in the comb, which naturally results in one having to pull it from the comb, but this is good as I like being able to stick them to a garbage bag as I go. I have a comb that is similar to this. It's a Spratts 76, and it's a sturdy little metal thing. The loose undercoat comes out great with this, and it all stays in the comb so I can pull the clumps of hair out as I go along. Campbell sheds a LOT. It's like there are long ginger hairs everywhere I go. On my glass, on the couch, on my plate. EVERYWHERE. But his coat is changing from cream puppy fluff all over to a smooth long red coat. I think most of the hair shedding now is coming from his big fluffy legs. The brushing daily/combing every couple of days really does help though
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May 31, 2012 09:55
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Roydrowsy posted:So I have a dog. Her name is Wendy. She is 4 years old and an essential part of our family. She is a corgi/jack russel mix (if that matters). First, you need to determine how happy Wendy is in that environment. Is she constantly stressed? (If she is, it will continue to lower her biting threshold.) Is she generally relaxed and happy? If she's stressed out, rehoming may be the best option for both you and her. I'm normally an avid "work through your dog's problems" type of trainer, but that she's already made contact with your child means that this is a Very Serious Situation, and will require a great deal of effort to address. The kind of effort that may not be viable for you, as you juggle the new addition to your family. Your next step is to absolutely speak to a behaviourist about the issue. Not a trainer. Not a vet. A qualified, accomplished behaviourist. Let them come by and assess your situation first hand, and get their honest opinion on how best to proceed. Lastly, do you cannot allow your child access to the dog, and vice versa. Spend some time walking/running the dog a bit more so she's more likely to sleep when you're home, and keep the two of them in different rooms unless they each have 110% of your attention, and there is no chance that an incident will occur. Your dog needs to have a several foot buffer around her at all times - never ever allow your child to wander into the dog's space.
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May 31, 2012 16:52
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I have a question about big cats. I'm not talking about your fat-rear end tabbies, but cats like lions and pumas and Jocelyn Wildenstein: Do they rub their faces against stuff when they're happy?
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Jun 1, 2012 00:07
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criscodisco posted:I have a question about big cats. I'm not talking about your fat-rear end tabbies, but cats like lions and pumas and Jocelyn Wildenstein: Oh yeah: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6BbUs0bSuM
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Jun 1, 2012 00:16
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I once watched at tiger at Disney accidentally knock her ball down a hill into the moat, then yowl angrily at the ball when she discovered she couldn't push it back up the hill. It was exactly the kind of fit you'd see from a pet cat.
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Jun 1, 2012 00:30
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I found a duckling getting hammered by waves against a pier today. There was no other ducks in sight. When I reached for it, it was exhausted and barely resisted me. I took it home. It's doing better now. It has its energy back. I have it in an aquarium, with a heat lamp on one end. Temp is ~75F. I put a shirt on the other end. Water dish and slice of bread in the middle. Now what do I do? How do I take care of a duckling?
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Jun 1, 2012 04:41
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Bazino Bazino posted:I found a duckling getting hammered by waves against a pier today. There was no other ducks in sight. When I reached for it, it was exhausted and barely resisted me. I took it home. Find a feed store near you and pick up some duck (or duckling, if you can find it) food, as bread isn't enough for him.
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Jun 1, 2012 04:45
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Wanna thank everyone for the previous advice given, really helped a lot. Had another question because my cats are idiots, anyway one of them is meowing at me like the area around his chest hurts, like between his legs, only when I apply a tiny bit of pressure to it though. Otherwise he's fine, drinking water, eating plenty, hell he cuddling on my lap a moment ago, did he hurt a muscle or something? He is mostly an outdoor cat.
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Jun 2, 2012 03:02
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I'm up to like 3500 cats now, and I've found that each one has it's own unique spot that it yowls about having touched. I'm not saying that you shouldn't get it looked at, at some point, but I wouldn't necessarily worry too much about it. Took an ambien, though, so grain of salt and all that. Did he always hate that spot touched, or is it all of a sudden?
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Jun 2, 2012 04:42
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Also, I had a thread here for a while about cats, and asked this once, but I never really got an answer: Do you think that your cats think that you hunt up the food that you bring home from the store, or do you think that they can comprehend pet stores? I think my dogs understand, because they've been to the pet store, but I had to stop taking them, because the birds were giving them stigmata.
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Jun 2, 2012 04:48
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criscodisco posted:I'm up to like 3500 cats now, and I've found that each one has it's own unique spot that it yowls about having touched. I'm not saying that you shouldn't get it looked at, at some point, but I wouldn't necessarily worry too much about it. Took an ambien, though, so grain of salt and all that. He always kicked the crap out of anyone who touched it, its probably just my crazy paranoia, I lost a cat yesterday so I'm just looking for any tiny thing.
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Jun 2, 2012 06:50
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