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The Ferret King posted:Preparing to do my first ever brake service on my 2007 Nissan Altima. I have some basic tools already but here's the shopping list I came up with from AutoZone. Anything obvious missing? I'm a little late to brake chat but i didn't see it mentioned. I like taking a wire brush to the caliper brackets when you take the old hardware out and clean the rust out real well. Also taking the old slides out and cleaning the old grease off really well. And regreasing them.
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Feb 23, 2017 22:54
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When I bought my 2008 G6 I got a single key, no remotes and want to pick up a backup key and at least one remote. I've been doing some research online and there seems to be a lot of either confusion or misinformation re: whether my car can be set up for factory remote start (AP8 is stamped on the code list in the glovebox, no AP3, there seems to be a lot of confusion as to what the full difference is). If I call up a local GM dealership would they be able to let me know what I'd need to do just from those codes?
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Feb 24, 2017 05:42
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AP8 gets replaced by AP3 once the dealer installs the remote start kit. AP8 basically says the necessary equipment is there, but it hasn't been enabled. There's an actual kit to do the swap (which includes a sticker to cover up AP8 with AP3 on the RPO sticker). It's basically keyfobs with the remote start button added, and an authorization code. They call GM, trade the code for some other kind of code, and program the body control module to add it. I don't know the part number for a G6 though. There's supposedly a way to add it without the "kit", but you risk losing it if the body control module ever gets updated for any reason. Possibly even losing it if the battery is disconnected. You still need the Tech2 (a GM dealer tool) to add it either way. A large dealer with some older service advisors (and techs) may know how to add it. It might be possible for a good locksmith to just add the remote-start-enabled keyfobs to your body control module and gain it that way, but I can't say for sure. I'm not sure if you can add keyfobs yourself or not. You may be able to; if you are, it'll be in the driver info center under Personalization. If you see anything in the DIC at all about remote start, it's already been enabled. Owner's manual is available from GM here. e: vvvv in my own experience, that's about what most places will charge to clone your existing key to an aftermarket key that they already have on hand, at least for regular cars like a GM, Honda, Ford, etc. May as well skip spending the money on an OEM key if you're doing that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 07:05
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Go to the dealer and get a key cut. You will need the title and id with u. Tell them u don't want it programed. Do some home work and find a mom and pop shop that can program your key. My guy does it for 50 bucks.
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Feb 24, 2017 07:57
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Kazinsal posted:I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 (J30A1) and the idle revs after a warm start are really low. Cold start it idles around 1000, maybe 1100. Warm start, it idles 300-500 and sometimes stalls. I have to give it some gas after it turns over when warm just to keep it around 1000 for a few seconds so it doesn't stall or surge. It's always idled fairly low on a warm start but in the past couple weeks it's been low enough to stall. You should talk to a good Honda mechanic. A lot of people like to replace parts on Honda's and not take the time to diagnose anything.
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Feb 24, 2017 09:08
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^^^^ This guy knows what's up. I know I said I thought the IACV was causing your issues (and I still think that's involved), but Hondas are their own kind of special breed. Their V6s aren't as special as the 4 cylinders of that time (in terms of figuring out Honda-specific issues), but the J series was Honda's most advanced mainstream engine at that time. The J30 was Honda's first mass-market engine to use a mass airflow based ECU (if my memory is correct); their 4 cylinders were still using speed density ECUs as late as 2005 (depending on the engine family - the Accord moved to a MAF-based engine across the board for the 2003 model year, the F23 used in 4 cylinder models till then was still speed density based). Speed density was largely abandoned by the late 80s by most other mainstream car makers. I'm still amazed that Honda was able to get through relatively modern emissions standards for so long like that.
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Feb 24, 2017 10:27
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:AP8 gets replaced by AP3 once the dealer installs the remote start kit. AP8 basically says the necessary equipment is there, but it hasn't been enabled. Thanks for clearing that up! Nothing about Remote Start in the DIC so it's definitely not enabled. From everything I've read it doesn't seem like I'm able to add keyfobs myself so it looks like my best bet is to go to a dealership to get them added somewhere down the line.
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Feb 24, 2017 18:35
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I have a 2012 nissan altima and it has started making noises at low RPM. A mechanic I trust said it is the CVT (transmission) and that Nissan even extended its warranty on it given how many problems they were having. Because I drive a lot, my car is past the 120k miles extended warranty for the CVT. He suggested taking my car to the dealership and then essentially bugging them until they at least provide parts since the fact that they extended the warranty is indication of a problem there. So a couple of stupid questions: anyone ever have any luck in a situation like this (of getting the dealership to cover at least partial costs after a similar situation)? And would I be better off calling someone at corporate nissan directly? Googling the issue indicates that Nissan simply stated that they would "work to reduce the cost of replacing CVTs for cars past warranty," but no follow ups.
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Feb 24, 2017 18:45
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Steve Lehto did a video on this last month: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waT2ASY-mk0
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Feb 24, 2017 18:53
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Is there a non-destructive way to remove the rear seats from a 2007 Hyundai Accent and float a flat plywood floor on top? I move a fair bit of farm stuff around, and would love the extra space without destroying the fold-down seats and what little resale value the car has left. The obvious answer is 'buy a truck', but I've been trying, and drat finding a good Ford Ranger/Toyota Tacoma/Other Smol Truck with a crew cab that's not black in my area in my price range is a pain. Also, still kinda attached to my Accent, hasn't let me down yet. Suspect Bucket fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 23:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Steve Lehto did a video on this last month: Thanks. But just as my luck would have it, once I got there the ignition button wouldn't work. I've read it online that it is likely a BCM problem. Might be time to get a new car.
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Feb 25, 2017 01:00
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bikesonyx posted:You should talk to a good Honda mechanic. A lot of people like to replace parts on Honda's and not take the time to diagnose anything. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:^^^^ This guy knows what's up. I know I said I thought the IACV was causing your issues (and I still think that's involved), but Hondas are their own kind of special breed. Yeah, I'm going to find a Honda mechanic. I'm not in a super big city so I might end up just taking it to the local Honda dealership's service department, see what they can figure out. Thanks guys!
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Feb 25, 2017 02:09
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joepinetree posted:I have a 2012 nissan altima and it has started making noises at low RPM. A mechanic I trust said it is the CVT (transmission) and that Nissan even extended its warranty on it given how many problems they were having. Because I drive a lot, my car is past the 120k miles extended warranty for the CVT. He suggested taking my car to the dealership and then essentially bugging them until they at least provide parts since the fact that they extended the warranty is indication of a problem there. So a couple of stupid questions: anyone ever have any luck in a situation like this (of getting the dealership to cover at least partial costs after a similar situation)? And would I be better off calling someone at corporate nissan directly? Have you tried finding any specific technical service bullitans about it? Have u done all the schedualed maintenence at appropriate intervalls? If they don't have any official TSBs and u have done all if any schedualed mainenence pertaining to the cvt, with proof, u can go and bitch and they might hook u up. Car companies often have what they call "campains" that fall in a grey area between issuing a recall and admitting they have a problem. Campains are reserved for people who come in and make a scene in the service department Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Feb 25, 2017 |
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Feb 25, 2017 03:14
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Suspect Bucket posted:Is there a non-destructive way to remove the rear seats from a 2007 Hyundai Accent and float a flat plywood floor on top? I move a fair bit of farm stuff around, and would love the extra space without destroying the fold-down seats and what little resale value the car has left. Why not just remove the seats and carpet and get the self roll in bed liner stuff for trucks? The car is worth maybe $4k tops?
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Feb 25, 2017 03:16
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Preoptopus posted:Have you tried finding any specific technical service bullitans about it? Have u done all the schedualed maintenence at appropriate intervalls? If they don't have any official TSBs and u have done all if any schedualed mainenence pertaining to the cvt, with proof, u can go and bitch and they might hook u up. Car companies often have what they call "campains" that fall in a grey area between issuing a recall and admitting they have a problem. Campains are reserved for people who come in and make a scene in the service department Thanks. There seems to be no TSBs about it. Dealership guy said I could try calling Nissan directly. Bigger problems right now, though. I got out of the car at the dealership, spoke to their service agent, he went and looked at the mileage and came back. As we both went back to the car, the open door warning wouldn't go away, all the warning lights on the panel kept flashing, radio wouldn't turn on, and ignition button wouldn't do anything to turn it on or off. They had to push the car into the bay, and the service agent claimed to never have seen anything like it. He also was supposed to call me back today and didn't. Part of me is suspicious of the issue, but I have no proof that the guy did anything in the 5 minutes he was alone with the car. I guess i'll find out on monday that besides a bad transmission i might have to go to bat for whatever electric component went haywire.
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Feb 25, 2017 03:36
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Christobevii3 posted:Why not just remove the seats and carpet and get the self roll in bed liner stuff for trucks? The car is worth maybe $4k tops? Yeah but doing all that will make the car worth maybe a grand. That's robbing myself of 3 k of value I could put in towards a future trade-in for a real truck.
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Feb 25, 2017 04:08
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Why would that? You can put the carpet back in and the seats back in after cleaning the truck bed lined body pan? Most running cars with a/c are worth at least $2k
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Feb 25, 2017 04:44
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Christobevii3 posted:Why would that? You can put the carpet back in and the seats back in after cleaning the truck bed lined body pan? Most running cars with a/c are worth at least $2k I mostly want a flat bottom though so I can slide animal crates and easily ripped bag of feed bags in easier. Wont just rhino-lining the bottom still leave a fair bit of structure and knobby bits exposed? I was kinda hoping there would be a way to cut some really thick plywood to shape, slide it in and secure it, and be able to shove stuff in there without it getting caught up on the bottom, but still have access to the doughnut in the back. The real issue here is that I'm sick of loosing space to the seats and have ripped open several bags of feed having to man-handle them into place in the back. Also, with the seats in it's impossible to carry hay. Again, I'm wondering if this modification can be done non-destructively or with as little modification as possible, for the cost of some good plywood and a couple brackets. If not, I'll forget it, and just wait until I find the truck I want and deal with multiple runs to the feed store. Suspect Bucket fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Feb 25, 2017 |
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Feb 25, 2017 04:54
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Suspect Bucket posted:Yeah but doing all that will make the car worth maybe a grand. That's robbing myself of 3 k of value I could put in towards a future trade-in for a real truck. Pretend you're trading in your Accent for a truck. Mod the car to where it's the equivalent of a truck and drive it into the ground. Resale value then is no longer an issue. How long do you think you'll have to wait to find a real truck worth swapping for it? What will be the value of the unmodified car at that point? That's the actual value you're losing. Its current value doesn't matter because you wouldn't be selling it now - and in the meantime, you're having to put up with a vehicle that doesn't meet your needs.
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Feb 25, 2017 04:54
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The bedliner paint would protect whatever you're hauling from making it nasty/scratched. You could build a courier setup on top of that. Something to bring foot area of back seats up and basically a 3/4 plywood on top of that.
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Feb 25, 2017 04:58
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Accent dude should just get a motorcycle trailer. joepinetree posted:Thanks. There seems to be no TSBs about it. Dealership guy said I could try calling Nissan directly. joepinetree posted:Thanks. There seems to be no TSBs about it. Dealership guy said I could try calling Nissan directly.
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Feb 25, 2017 05:47
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joepinetree posted:Thanks. There seems to be no TSBs about it. Dealership guy said I could try calling Nissan directly. Was the engine off when it was parked? A dying battery makes car electronics do all kinds of weird poo poo. So does a loose ground cable.
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Feb 25, 2017 05:55
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Was the engine off when it was parked? Yes, it was. Reading online it seems to be a not too rare problem with the body control module on Nissans.
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Feb 25, 2017 06:36
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I've been an AI lurker for about 6 years now, made a few posts in the RX-7 threads but now I finally have a question. I moved to Hong Kong in December and am considering purchasing a car, but I have no idea where to look and who to avoid seeing Japanese imports with rolled back odometers. Do any of you goons live in HK or anyone have any advice?
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Feb 25, 2017 13:17
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Preoptopus posted:Accent dude should just get a motorcycle trailer. That would be awesome if I had the tow package. I'll have to look into that.
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Feb 25, 2017 16:53
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Suspect Bucket posted:That would be awesome if I had the tow package. I'll have to look into that. See what u haul will charge for a hitch. Otherwise buy your own (you will need a class 2 hitch) and find a shop to throw it in. My shop charges like 150 to 250 depending on how complicated the job is.
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Feb 25, 2017 17:09
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DirkDonkeyroot posted:I've been an AI lurker for about 6 years now, made a few posts in the RX-7 threads but now I finally have a question. Sure you want to buy a car? I know it's not very AI, but the roads are busy, public transport is great and you'll spend more time getting to/from the car park than you will actually driving. Then you'll be dualling with taxi drivers talking on 3 phones simultaneously and minibus drivers who makes tweakers look calm. That said, I think the classified of the SCMP are a good place to start, but you'd better know how to judge whether a car is a good 'un or a lemon yourself.
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Feb 25, 2017 17:58
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Can anyone explain this uneven pad wear?  I'm thinking the dealership forgot to change the pads on one of the wheels but I want to make sure this doesn't indicate some mechanical problem.
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Feb 25, 2017 19:48
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Dietrich posted:Can anyone explain this uneven pad wear? That looks more like you have a caliper bolt/slider issue on that one wheel. Replace or clean and lubricate the pins/bolts/sliders and make sure that caliper can float side-to-side easily. Then bleed the hell out of the brakes and make sure it's flowing the same out of that corner as the others. Most shops would probably just stick you for the entire caliper if they saw this.
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Feb 25, 2017 19:58
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Getting into my brake pad/rotor replacement project today. Driver side front pads look like this:  Are these really in need of replacement now? Seems like a fair bit of material on them. But the car hasn't been braking the best and I don't know what the other wheels look like yet.
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Feb 25, 2017 20:07
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Hey dudes. Moving back to the US soon, and looking to buy a beater ASAP so I can take my time doing a proper car/housing search. Hoping to sell it after without taking too big of a hit. When I look on Autotrader, there's nothing below $3k. Shouldn't there be some ~$1k cars avail? Near Goldsboro, NC. Maybe Raleigh. I've noticed the used car market's pretty fickle, ie a HUGE bid/ask spread, but that might be because my exp has been with impractical cars, ie MX-5/RX-8. Any recommendations for places to look? Unrelated: Are Teslas only feasible if you live in a hous?
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Feb 25, 2017 20:08
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The Ferret King posted:Getting into my brake pad/rotor replacement project today. Probably not. If pads are super cheap and you have them right there is probably take the lazy tax and change them
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Feb 25, 2017 20:41
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Dominoes posted:Hey dudes. Moving back to the US soon, and looking to buy a beater ASAP so I can take my time doing a proper car/housing search. Hoping to sell it after without taking too big of a hit. When I look on Autotrader, there's nothing below $3k. Shouldn't there be some ~$1k cars avail? Near Goldsboro, NC. Maybe Raleigh. Try Craigslist. Lots of them below 2k in both eastern NC and Raleigh listed there. Maybe there's something worthwhile.
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Feb 25, 2017 20:41
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The Ferret King posted:Getting into my brake pad/rotor replacement project today. I would probably change them just because I have everything disassembled already and I have the parts.
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Feb 25, 2017 21:30
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I took my car ('04 Mazda3) in to get a replacement for the downstream O2 sensor last month. Dropped off the car, did some work at a coffee shop for an hour, then got a call from them saying something about it being stuck and requiring extra work to remove and that they'd have to bill the extra time, tacking another ~$50-75 onto my bill. Is this standard procedure or are they milking me for whatever extra they can get? Somewhat separately: I'd waited awhile between the O2 sensor first triggering the engine light and getting it replaced just because I was very strapped for cash at the time. I don't drive that much, but still was about a year before I brought it for the replacement. I finally got around to it as I'd noticed a steady decline to my gas mileage over the last few months. With it replaced, I did seem to actually see a boost to my MPG, but has since returned to its downward trend and is now even worse, averaging slightly under 20 miles per gallon. No check engine light's come on, but I've read that a faulty O2 sensor will place strain on the catalytic converter, so I guess I'll be looking for a new mechanic to check things out. Anything else that might cause such a drastic reduction? My tires are properly inflated and I don't drive like a maniac.
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Feb 25, 2017 22:44
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Cugel the Clever posted:Is this standard procedure or are they milking me for whatever extra they can get? Did they give you a quote before starting the job, and if so how much? Most mechanics work on "book time;" ie, the books says X job will take Y hours to complete, and the mechanic doing the work will only be paid for what the book says...so generally if a job takes longer the customer is only charged the initial quote based on what the book says it should take. Unless they gave you a ridiculously low quote they're milking you.
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Feb 25, 2017 22:50
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spog posted:Sure you want to buy a car? If it was totally up to me I'd never drive here, but since we live out in yuen long my wife wants us to get a car. Been looking at things like Suzuki Swift, the jazz/fit pairing just to get her to the boarder for work in case she misses the bus or if we need to go somewhere transport isn't so readily available I've lived here since 2013, but finally made the entire move. I agree taxi and minibus drivers are terrifying. Thanks for your suggestion on the SCMP
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Feb 26, 2017 00:26
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Dominoes posted:Hey dudes. Moving back to the US soon, and looking to buy a beater ASAP so I can take my time doing a proper car/housing search. Hoping to sell it after without taking too big of a hit. When I look on Autotrader, there's nothing below $3k. Shouldn't there be some ~$1k cars avail? Near Goldsboro, NC. Maybe Raleigh. As suggested, definitely troll through CL. Raleigh CL has plenty of beaters under 3k and I troll through pretty often. Just gotta find the ones where folks are being realistic about pricing without going VINTAGE MUST SEE$$!
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Feb 26, 2017 00:46
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O2 sensor rusted in place? Sounds normal. Ask them what they did but probably required torching and getting it out without messing stuff up. Rarely do they come out easily but probably were optimistic
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Feb 26, 2017 01:34
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The Ferret King posted:Getting into my brake pad/rotor replacement project today. I'd say those are a bit under half worn (guessing based on the Altima I used to own, but it was a 2nd generation, not a 3rd or 4th like yours). You had picked up pads and rotors for all 4 wheels, right? If it were me, I'd go ahead and slap the new pads on up front (since you've already done all the work, and the new ones were ceramic, if I remember right? so you won't have to touch them again for a long time) and call it a day, return everything else. If the rotors are grooved, throw the new ones on, but otherwise return them and get your money back. Also, if this is your first brake job, know that the first few stops will do almost nothing (you'll have to pump the brake pedal several times before you even think about driving off, just to extend the pistons far enough to work with the new pads), and you'll have to "bed" them before they work decently.
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Feb 26, 2017 05:02
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