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I think I'm going to start modding my Monoprice Mini this weekend, starting with some of the axis stabilizers on thingiverse and some new belt tensioners. Then once the couple of parts arrive I'll add a glass bed. 
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Feb 16, 2018 23:36
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I keep looking at upgrading my Rostock Max, but it quickly ends up at about $500 and that's halfway to a new iPrusa Mk3.
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Feb 16, 2018 23:42
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Has anyone ever printed with HIPS? I had a lot of problems getting that plastic to print right and I'm not planning on continuing with it at all, but I still have three rolls and if I could something usable out of them I'd feel better than just throwing them out.
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Feb 17, 2018 00:58
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Parts Kit posted:I think I'm going to start modding my Monoprice Mini this weekend, starting with some of the axis stabilizers on thingiverse and some new belt tensioners. Then once the couple of parts arrive I'll add a glass bed. Rewire your heater bed first so you never have to resolder it.
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Feb 17, 2018 01:10
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 Hatchbox Wood PLA is pretty neat. It feels rough, a bit like raw wood. Not a perfect print but considering finishing this stuff usually involves sanding and optionally staining, I think it looks like a good start.
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Feb 17, 2018 03:03
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Rewire your heater bed first so you never have to resolder it.
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Feb 17, 2018 03:43
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It's finally cooling down enough to print. I've used a bit of kaptan tape on the threads into the radiator (?) ,A bit of light oil on the fan aswell. That seems to be helping in these heatwave conditions. I brought one of these to use on the hotend. https://i.imgur.com/NDd3LpU.jpg to use as a hotend cooler, I'm sure it will be fine, but as a sanity check, this will run fine on a 12 volt system right?
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Feb 17, 2018 10:45
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Jestery posted:It's finally cooling down enough to print. I've used a bit of kaptan tape on the threads into the radiator (?) ,A bit of light oil on the fan aswell. That seems to be helping in these heatwave conditions. It's a 12 volt fan so yeah. It only pulls .6 Watts according to the image you linked as well so it won't use much power. Looks loud, though!
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Feb 17, 2018 11:21
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I'm ok with a little noise, if it means my hotend stays cooler in 37' heat I can deal. thanks a bunch man Edit: I feel obligated to link the cr-10 discord that I moderate. https://discord.gg/mueBanW All are welcome, pm if the link expires 
Jestery fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Feb 17, 2018 |
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Feb 17, 2018 12:11
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Has anyone got advice on printing miniatures with the MK2S? I've been trying 0.05mm detail but the supports never seem to print right and the model ends up a mess and brittle. Could be the white filament I'm using though.
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Feb 17, 2018 14:22
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asmasm posted:I decided to throw a big pile of money at my x5s to get it where I want it. Which wheels did you go with? I'm about *this* close to, at the very least, replacing all of the bearings because I can hear a few of them clicking as the carriages move. If I'm going to take it that far apart anyway, it's probably worth just changing all of the rolling bits while I'm in there.
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Feb 17, 2018 16:42
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Parts Kit posted:Anyone have a link on the short version of why/how? The default wiring job has them cable tied to the Y carriage which can cause some wobble and it'll eventually work itself free from the board for movement. Just Google MP Mini bed rewire for all the reasons why.
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Feb 17, 2018 18:11
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Also it takes like 2 minutes (aside from printing a couple parts if you want it to look good) so if you're already opening up the printer, you might as well reroute the wires too.
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Feb 17, 2018 18:27
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Listerine posted:Has anyone ever printed with HIPS? I had a lot of problems getting that plastic to print right and I'm not planning on continuing with it at all, but I still have three rolls and if I could something usable out of them I'd feel better than just throwing them out. HIPS is great if you only print in natural. The colorants really gently caress with it.
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Feb 18, 2018 01:20
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insta posted:HIPS is great if you only print in natural. The colorants really gently caress with it. And my three rolls are in green. Ugh.
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Feb 18, 2018 06:11
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I keep looking at upgrading my Rostock Max, but it quickly ends up at about $500 and that's halfway to a new iPrusa Mk3. Which upgrades are you looking at? I upgraded my v2 to the injection molded carriages, ball cup arms/platform, HE280 hot end, and EZR Struder. And it was only $255 USD all in. Gained a more mechanically sound arm/platform setup (the new cartridges and platform is much stiffer with zero play), better all-metal hotend for handling exotics, quick and easy auto-calibration, and a extruder that can handle flexible filaments. Aside from the display being mounted up top, my printer is now effectively a V3. In fact as part of the setup after the upgrades, you clear the EPROM, and flash the v3 firmware to the Rambo. Run the G29 auto cal, PID tune, and then your good to go. All the upgrades where easy to install with exception of the hotend... It is really easy to screw up the wiring on it. Better hope you left enough slack on the wiring harness assuming you built the printer yourself originally. stevewm fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 00:02
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Listerine posted:And my three rolls are in green. Ugh. Use a big nozzle then, like .5 or larger.
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Feb 20, 2018 00:33
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Acid Reflux posted:Which wheels did you go with? I'm about *this* close to, at the very least, replacing all of the bearings because I can hear a few of them clicking as the carriages move. If I'm going to take it that far apart anyway, it's probably worth just changing all of the rolling bits while I'm in there. I ended up with the open builds polycarbonate wheels since I'm planning chamber temps of 90c. That said, I just ordered linear rail for the X axis. I will do the Y axis with PC rollers or maybe end up replacing them with linear rail as well.
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Feb 20, 2018 00:34
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What do you guys think of my benchy? It's Atomic PETG filament. Prusa MK2S. Not much for stringiness but I've had a blobbing problem lately where the filament strings build up on the nozzle and eventually smear off. It's gotten better, but still eventually poops off. Any thoughts on how to remedy?    
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Feb 20, 2018 01:57
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asmasm posted:I ended up with the open builds polycarbonate wheels since I'm planning chamber temps of 90c. Ah, cool, I was eyeballing those same wheels the other day while looking for bearings. Not sure it'd be worth the money to replace all 11 of the drat things. I may still just start with some decent quality bearings, and maybe look at wheels later down the road if the Delrin ones start running funny.
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Feb 20, 2018 03:59
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Yooper posted:What do you guys think of my benchy? Jack up your coast/wipe settings. Then I watch the first part of the print- hang around during the first layer- and use a pair of forceps to pluck off any strands that get on the side of the nozzle during the first layer, which is usually when I tend to get accumulation on the nozzle; after it's gotten going, there will still be a little bit here and there that gets caught on the nozzle but the first few minutes is when it's the worst. I've also used ooze shields in the past they don't seem to work that great with PETG, it's stickiness means it's less likely for any extra bit clinging to the nozzle to get transferred to the shield, sometimes it just gets pushed around on the nozzle when it glides over the shield. I haven't used Atomic brand though so maybe it works better.
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Feb 20, 2018 04:12
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I've moved recently and I redid my xyz calibration on my i3 MK2S. The prints I was doing came out fine before the calibration, but I was seeing weird artifacts on the bottom surfaces of objects. I am continuing to see weird artifacts on my print's bottoms and am not sure what's causing it. In this picture, I printed a 75x75mm @ 0.2, from top left to bottom right is with no live z adjust and with -250um adjust. The print is done in diagonals of the x and y axis at the same time. What could be causing this?
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Feb 20, 2018 05:43
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stevewm posted:Which upgrades are you looking at? Injection molded carriages, arms, 24V bed,Duet Wifi, possibly HE280.
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Feb 20, 2018 05:43
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SlayVus posted:I've moved recently and I redid my xyz calibration on my i3 MK2S. The prints I was doing came out fine before the calibration, but I was seeing weird artifacts on the bottom surfaces of objects. I am continuing to see weird artifacts on my print's bottoms and am not sure what's causing it. In this picture, I printed a 75x75mm @ 0.2, from top left to bottom right is with no live z adjust and with -250um adjust. The print is done in diagonals of the x and y axis at the same time. What could be causing this? Uneven bed is what it looks like to me. As in fraction of millimetre variance in height across the area.
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Feb 20, 2018 05:53
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Injection molded carriages, arms, 24V bed,Duet Wifi, possibly HE280. I assume 24v because your heated bed takes forever to heat up? Are you using the power supply Seemecnc supplied? Because the one originally supplied with the v2 was quite poo poo... Voltage dropped pretty significantly when the heated bed and hotend where powered at the same time. I never used the included supply when I built mine as I knew this ahead of time. I bought a modular 650 watt Corsair unit with a ~50 Amp 12v rail. Using that supply my heated bed takes slightly under 3 minutes to reach 60C..And reaches 80C in about 3.5. And has no problems maintaining it. The hotend reaches PLA temps in less than 30 seconds. stevewm fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 05:54
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stevewm posted:I assume 24v because your heated bed takes forever to heat up? Are you using the power supply Seemecnc supplied? Because the one originally supplied with the v2 was quite poo poo... Ah no, that one got replaced a long time ago. I use a 27A 12v HP server power supply.
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Feb 20, 2018 07:00
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SlayVus posted:I've moved recently and I redid my xyz calibration on my i3 MK2S. The prints I was doing came out fine before the calibration, but I was seeing weird artifacts on the bottom surfaces of objects. I am continuing to see weird artifacts on my print's bottoms and am not sure what's causing it. In this picture, I printed a 75x75mm @ 0.2, from top left to bottom right is with no live z adjust and with -250um adjust. I think it comes from the geometry of the E3D nozzle because I had an old J-Head Mk IV that wasn't as finicky. It seems when the E3D is slightly too close the flat area of the nozzle, designed to "smooth the layer" , actually squeezes filament out the side instead and which side it comes out is random so it appears as a waviness.
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Feb 20, 2018 13:56
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I cut new Y axis gantry brackets out of some scrap carbon plate I had.  Upon install I was again reminded that I don't like vslot wheels. The bolt that holds the wheel is of course not a slip fit so you need to locate the wheel for preload and hold them in place with tension on the bolt, but not too much tension or else you begin to compress the bearing and it doesn't spin freely.. . I have found that even after fiddling the preload tends to work itself lose over time. Hiwin MGN12 clones coming in the mail. I like the tronxy x5s, and it did print PLA well out of the box. Admittedly I'm building a printer with very different needs that most people, but I will have replaced: The control board with a duet wifi Extruder with bondtech BMG Hot end with V6 Volcano X and Y linear motion with MGN12 Heated bed with 120v .25" Mic6 That pretty much just leaves the original extrusion, steppers, and Z axis motion.
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Feb 21, 2018 00:36
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That sounds like an interesting set of needs - what are you doing? I'm looking at the x5s as an intermediate step to a really big printer to make casting patterns.
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Feb 21, 2018 04:07
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asmasm posted:I cut new Y axis gantry brackets out of some scrap carbon plate I had. This is cool. I always wondered why there wasn't a carbon fiber version of the prusa i3 acrylic parts. It's just aluminum.
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Feb 21, 2018 04:14
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mekilljoydammit posted:That sounds like an interesting set of needs - what are you doing? I'm making large thin walled automotive parts for engine bay use. I'm starting with polycarbonate but also want to have the ability to print Ultem for future projects (ultem intake manifolds would be pretty cool).
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Feb 21, 2018 14:42
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So I've managed to fix my heatwave induced heat creep by Increasing print speed, decreasing retraction and increasing retraction speed. Like, I guess I get better prints ,but it seems oddly mechanical to fix a problem like this
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Feb 21, 2018 15:01
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asmasm posted:I'm making large thin walled automotive parts for engine bay use. I'm starting with polycarbonate but also want to have the ability to print Ultem for future projects (ultem intake manifolds would be pretty cool). Ha, pretty similar to my goal, I'm just casting them out of aluminum afterwards so PLA is fine.
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Feb 21, 2018 15:59
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mekilljoydammit posted:Ha, pretty similar to my goal, I'm just casting them out of aluminum afterwards so PLA is fine. I think if you sticking to PLA you will be pretty happy with the x5s. Certainly lots of points can be improved, and it will take some tweaking/tuning but mine printed pla really well stock and I have one of the older revisions with more issues.
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Feb 21, 2018 18:31
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asmasm posted:Upon install I was again reminded that I don't like vslot wheels. The bolt that holds the wheel is of course not a slip fit so you need to locate the wheel for preload and hold them in place with tension on the bolt, but not too much tension or else you begin to compress the bearing and it doesn't spin freely.. . I have found that even after fiddling the preload tends to work itself lose over time. By the time you add up 2x shims ($0.58), 2x spacers ($0.58), M5x30mm bolt ($0.60), a nylock nut ($0.10), 2x M5 washers ($0.10), the vwheel ($1.50), and 2x bearings ($2.00) multiplied by 4x points of contact that's $21.84 per carriage and you're now in the linear rail ballpark.
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Feb 21, 2018 18:56
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About to try my second glass bed print, this time with aquanet and a freshly releveled with feeler gauges bed. The feeler gauges are way way better than that stupid paper method by the way.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:03
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Well I was about to post about how this was going noticeably better, but then one corner decided to liberate itself from the raft. 
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Feb 22, 2018 02:22
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I've had a good experience in the last few months with a glass bed and glue stick. Usually if something peels up I didn't get glue on it or the bed isn't level. I usually make the first layer a little fatter than the other layers, like .15mm if I'm printing .1 or .25 if I'm printing .2mm.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:43
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Rexxed posted:I usually make the first layer a little fatter than the other layers, like .15mm if I'm printing .1 or .25 if I'm printing .2mm. If having that extra 0.12mm on the bottom of a model is too much, just sand it down in about 15 seconds with some 800 grit sandpaper 
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Feb 22, 2018 02:54
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Parts Kit posted:Well I was about to post about how this was going noticeably better, but then one corner decided to liberate itself from the raft. PLA? Maybe painters tape as build surface?
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Feb 22, 2018 02:57
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