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Krailor posted:One thing to keep in mind which was brought up in the thread and might have skewed their 3tb stats is that a large majority of the 3tb drives that failed for them were purchased right after the severe Taiwan floods of 2012 which really screwed HD manufacturing in general. It wouldn't surprise me if some of the manufactures loosened up on their QC in order to get some product out the door and back on their feet. Yeah that's totally possible. I've seen a bunch of seagates from that era fail lately with just huge numbers of read errors which cause the system to hiccup all the time while it tries to error correct. Some were 2TB and some were 1TB but they were all from 2011-2012 with the same behavior. I'm just skipping seagate all together now but either way it'd be worth trying to distance your purchase from products that may have an issue, even if it's not known what that issue is or if it's fixed, just for a little more security. I can't wait until SSDs get a lot bigger and cheaper, I'm really tired of platters. I wonder if seagate or WD will actually try to compete in the SSD market at some point or if they have new future tech planned for platters to not be worthless in a few years. I know WD sells SSDs, they're just nothing special.
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Jun 30, 2015 00:19
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149396 Would this be good for games? I already have 2 SSDs for games that take a long time to load, but I also like to have a giant drive for other games and I'm looking to replace some older drives, one of which has started clicking. The price looks great, but I want to be sure it isn't slow and mainly for storage. If it is, what is recommended?
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Jun 30, 2015 00:19
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Anonononomous posted:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149396 As discussed above, HGST disks seem to have the lowest failure rate, but other manufacturers are okay as long as they don't just happen to be having a bad product run. I have a Toshiba 3TB with 631 days of power on time that's working perfectly but there's no guarantees. Luckily they have a 3 year warranty. If you have any files you value make sure they're in at least 2 places.
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Jun 30, 2015 00:26
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Cheers for all the feedback in earlier pages, So I asked myself the question, will I want to overclock this?  CPU: Intel I5-4690K CPU-HS: Noctua NH-12S Mobo: ASUS Z97-A GPU: ASUS NV GTX 970 RAM: G.SKILL 16GB DDR3 HD1: Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB HD2: Seagate Barracuda 4TB PSU: Seasonic X-650+ Goldv3 Case: Still TBA Again for those playing at home, am Australia, gets loving hot where I am - I like those fractal cases, but I read "Scandinavian" and my internal voice screams "gently caress YOU YOUR SUMMER COLDER THAN OUR WINTER". I'm not kidding, it can get to 45 C for a week straight where I am and Aircon is something that happens to other people, hence my desire for a big arse airy case. This will probably be used mostly for work and playing old isometric poo poo that runs perfectly fine on my laptop, but I lit a stack of cash on fire over Star Citizen and I have been known to play more contemporary games.
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Jun 30, 2015 00:49
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My 2TB Seagate 7200RPM just up and died on me last week, so I'm planning on getting a 4TB to replace it in the next few days at the same time as that new mITX motherboard and CPU cooler. Is this HGST 4TB a good buy if HGST has the lowest failure rate? It has NAS in the title so that makes me think it's not the best for everyday use in a desktop. In the past couple years, I've had both a Hitachi and now a Seagate fail on me after a short time. I don't know what was wrong with those drives but I really want something reliable 
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Jun 30, 2015 00:54
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Rougey posted:Cheers for all the feedback in earlier pages, 45C is outdoor temperature, right? What's the indoor temperature? Remember that the CPU cooler is physically incapable of getting the CPU temperature below the ambient air temperature, so that's the absolute minimum the CPU could run at and it'll probably idle at a good ten or twenty degrees higher. I'm saying this because you might not have enough thermal headroom to get a good overclock. Especially since you're saying you don't have AC, correct?
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Jun 30, 2015 02:34
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:My 2TB Seagate 7200RPM just up and died on me last week, so I'm planning on getting a 4TB to replace it in the next few days at the same time as that new mITX motherboard and CPU cooler. NAS drives usually just have settings in the controller to make them respond quicker if they detect an error, it's called TLER or Time Limited Error Recovery (depending on the brand of disk and its implementation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TLER ). It's important for a RAID controller because if a disk doesn't respond to the controller after a time the controller assumes it's failed, freaks out, and drops it from the raid volume. TLER gets around that by limiting how long a disk can work on an error. So NAS disks are fine for normal storage uses, and they're a really, really good idea in a RAID volume or other redundant storage method. While you might wonder, what if my disk could recover from the error given more time, and carry on serving my data for years to come? Well, the original designers of HD controllers assumed that that would be a normal thing, but over time it turns out that if a disk gets an error it's usually because it's beginning to fail and then it gets worse. It's not impossible for a disk to have a bad sector or two and continue on for a few more years but it's very uncommon in modern disks. Generally if you see one bad sector it's time to RMA it or replace it.
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Jun 30, 2015 02:39
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Rexxed posted:NAS drives usually just have settings in the controller to make them respond quicker if they detect an error, it's called TLER or Time Limited Error Recovery (depending on the brand of disk and its implementation: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TLER ). It's important for a RAID controller because if a disk doesn't respond to the controller after a time the controller assumes it's failed, freaks out, and drops it from the raid volume. TLER gets around that by limiting how long a disk can work on an error. So NAS disks are fine for normal storage uses, and they're a really, really good idea in a RAID volume or other redundant storage method.  That's cheaper than the WD Black 4TB I had been looking at, too. I have a Samsung 840 500GB SSD as my main OS/program/game drive and I use the HDD for storing music, videos, install files for programs, etc. If that NAS drive is fine for storage, then I'll just get that one.
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Jun 30, 2015 02:48
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Rougey posted:Cheers for all the feedback in earlier pages, Rather than overclocking an i5 with a big fat cooler, you should probably just pony up the money for a 4790K, 4.4GHz from the factory. The stock clock of a 4790K is about where most 4690Ks tend to hit a wall.
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Jun 30, 2015 03:12
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So is there a way to force to 4790k to give me 4.4 GHz? I don't have a Z97 MB and I'm worried Intel is blue balling me on my sweet gigahertzes.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:04
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INTJ Mastermind posted:So is there a way to force to 4790k to give me 4.4 GHz? I don't have a Z97 MB and I'm worried Intel is blue balling me on my sweet gigahertzes. Turn on multi core enhancement in the BIOS. By default it does 4.4GHz on 1 and 2 core loads, 4.3GHz on 3 core and 4.2GHz on 4 core. Multi core enhancement (MCE), changes the turbo behaviour to be max turbo on all cores.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:20
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BurritoJustice posted:Turn on multi core enhancement in the BIOS. By default it does 4.4GHz on 1 and 2 core loads, 4.3GHz on 3 core and 4.2GHz on 4 core. Multi core enhancement (MCE), changes the turbo behaviour to be max turbo on all cores. Is this fine to do with my 4790k as long as my temps are fine?
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Jun 30, 2015 04:26
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Ledhed posted:So I ditched the CS550M for an EVGA GS 650. The GS are ok like the G2, right? My understanding is only the G1 EVGAs are bad, is this correct? The GS is good. Not quite as good as the G2 series, but still excellent (and available at more sensible wattages than the G2 is). GS is built by Seasonic, G2 is Superflower.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:34
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BurritoJustice posted:Turn on multi core enhancement in the BIOS. By default it does 4.4GHz on 1 and 2 core loads, 4.3GHz on 3 core and 4.2GHz on 4 core. Multi core enhancement (MCE), changes the turbo behaviour to be max turbo on all cores. Does that option exist on all motherboard BIOS?
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Jun 30, 2015 04:34
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Are there any good, cheap 3TB HDDs out there? Like how do the WD green, caviar green, red, black and so on compare in reliability and performance for desktop usage as a secondary drive to an SSD? What about other brands? Greens are poo poo and people shouldn't buy them. Blacks are overpriced 'high performance' drives that cost too much and make a ton of noise and don't really make sense in a world where affordablr SSDs exist. Reds are designed for reliability, storage, and raid arrays - they're what you buy when you have another drive for your OS, and want a big >1TB drive to store your music/movies/pregnant horse porn. If you only need a single TB you might as well just get a blue though.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:39
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Bum the Sad posted:Is this fine to do with my 4790k as long as my temps are fine? Yes. A lot of motherboards do it by default without even asking. It is only really more taxing on the motherboard VRMs, which are gloriously overbuilt on any thread recommended motherboard. The Lord Bude posted:The GS is good. Not quite as good as the G2 series, but still excellent (and available at more sensible wattages than the G2 is). GS is built by Seasonic, G2 is Superflower. EVGA just announced that they are releasing G2's at 550 and 650w, to fill out the range. Both Leadex based. Another thing to note comparing the GS and G2 is that the GS are all shorter (150-160mm typically versus 180mm+) and have fan curves tuned for silence compared to thermal performance on the G2's. Just emphasises the performance focus of the 2 serious versus the silence/size focus of the S series. To add to your earlier recommendation, the B2 series PSUs from EVGA are also basically the best bronze PSUs available. AVeryLargeRadish posted:Does that option exist on all motherboard BIOS? Every manufacturer that we recommend has it as a standard feature (ASRock, ASUS, MSI and even Gigabyte, god forbid). The earlier controversy with Gigabyte releasing cut down "revisions" of their motherboards also involved the original motherboard using MCE and the cut down revision not using MCE, as with the cut down VRMs it caused throttling. It is probably missing from some ECS and Biostar boards.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:53
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Rougey posted:Cheers for all the feedback in earlier pages, Just bear in mind, the stock clocks of the 4790k are about what the 4690k overclocks to - so its perfectly viable to just buy a 4790k and an H97 mobo and not bother overclocking. You can buy high end H97 boards these days that have all the luxury features - top end audio, quality Intel NIC, etc of top end $500 z97 boards, only they're priced like cheap, low featured z97 boards like that z97-A you've picked (Asus H97-pro gamer for eg) On cases: Smaller size doesn't necessarily mean crap cooling if you have a good case - the fans end up being closer to the components and the airflow is better directed. Large cases can end up with pockets of dead air. Nanoxia cases tend to have better airflow (for a quiet case) than the fractal designs. Otherwise, phanteks makes awesome cases - the Enthoo Evolv mATX case or the Enthoo Pro full tower. The corsair obsidian 450D is also pretty good. Bear in mind that phanteks and Nanoxia products are exclusive to PCCasegear in Australia, so you'd need to shop there. Another really good option is the thermaltake core V21 - a compact mATX case that is very affordable. It has a 200mm front fan, and you'd buy a 140mm fan to stick in the rear. Phanteks also makes CPU coolers - the tc12DX is better than the Noctua U12S. Cryorig coolers are also excellent.
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Jun 30, 2015 04:54
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The Lord Bude posted:Greens are poo poo and people shouldn't buy them. Blacks are overpriced 'high performance' drives that cost too much and make a ton of noise and don't really make sense in a world where affordablr SSDs exist. Ugh, the reds seem to have crap reliability. Why is everything even vaguely reasonably priced such garbage? 
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Jun 30, 2015 05:20
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Ugh, the reds seem to have crap reliability. Why is everything even vaguely reasonably priced such garbage?
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Jun 30, 2015 05:27
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Er, according to who? https://www.backblaze.com/blog/best-hard-drive/ I mean it's not as bad as the Seagates but ~7% per year is way higher than I'd like.
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Jun 30, 2015 05:31
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Rougey posted:I'm not kidding, it can get to 45 C for a week straight where I am and Aircon is something that happens to other people, hence my desire for a big arse airy case. edit: after what you'd spend on extra cooling, you'd probably only reach roughly the same performance of the i7 after overclocking the i5 with a lot more heat. It'd probably just be best to get the i7-4790k. Incomplete Fish fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 05:44
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:https://www.backblaze.com/blog/best-hard-drive/ The purpose of a hard drive is to fail; data storage is a useful side effect. We still generally write off Seagate because they did deceptive poo poo with their SMART data like suppressing known impending-failure indicators (I don't know if they still do but they'd have to not do it for A While for us to deal with them again). As for Western Digital, you'll notice that two of those were oddball sizes and one was a small sample size (the latter also affects Toshiba). Hitachi, despite being a WD joint, came out of it okay, so your call. In any case, if you care about the data, buy drives from different lots and don't leave the data in one place (and ideally not at one physical location).
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Jun 30, 2015 07:18
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Sir Unimaginative posted:The purpose of a hard drive is to fail; data storage is a useful side effect. Do you have any source on the Seagate SMART data thing? All I have ever heard about it is hearsay, and google returns nothing (pretty damning for what is supposedly such a big issue). Also in those stats the seagates all have some of the best failure rates, except for the 1.5TB and 3TB drives which are abnormally high. Not enough to write off all their drives, just maybe those in particular.
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Jun 30, 2015 10:29
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Fellas, I've been posting in the laptop megathread and getting a bit of advice on what kind of machine(s) to get for grad school. I'm a heavy gamer but have never built my own PC before. I am located in the US and will be moving to Atlanta for grad school in the fall. I plan to use whatever machine I get (desktop or "gaming laptop", feel free to roll your eyes) for moderate to heavy gaming, depending on what PC titles release in late 2015 to 2017. Additionally, I am getting my master's in databases and software engineering, but generally speaking the workload I have been given thus far in school hasn't been anything my old lovely gaming laptop couldn't handle. My basic budget is $1500, and I can go a bit over that if I like. I got some dumb rebranded Logitech keyboard from an Alienware giveaway about three years ago and I have a mouse, so all I would need is a monitor, absolutely no less than 1920x1080, although I don't really feel a need for it to be greater than that either. My family will likely rebuy my old laptop for an as-yet undisclosed price which I am guessing will be anywhere from $300-500. Potential extra funds but no guarantee. If I do decide to try to build a desktop, I'm going to need a laptop for school. GATech provides me with some requirements for hardware but they essentially boil down to "don't get a toaster, idiot". I'm not here for laptop recommendations, but just keep in mind if you give me advice on "my" build that the price of a sort-of not lovely laptop is going to have to fit in there somewhere. I'm pretty sure I can grab something good from Lenovo. This is the build I am currently looking at that I literally stole from some guy on PartPicker who built his machine six days ago (it's featured on the frontpage, I'm that pathetic). Everyone on the site seemed very excited and encouraging about the build, so it seems like nothing in it is a total fuckup. Given that I know next to nothing about motherboards, cooling units, and PSUs, this seems to have a good pick for CPU/GPU along with the kind of memory I am looking for: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.50 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($65.38 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ NCIX US) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.7 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.89 @ OutletPC) Other: Silverstone Sleeved Extension - 24 Pin ($12.99) Other: Silverstone Sleeved Extension - 8 Pin PCI-E ($8.49) Other: Silverstone Sleeved Extension - 8 Pin EPS12V ($7.99) Other: PWM Fan Splitter ($8.86) Total: $1050.04 I'm fairly certain the build doesn't include tax. Additionally I'd need a monitor, so I think that would put it around $1200-1300. The only other mention-able is that I don't overclock. I've got enough to worry about (see: building a PC).
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Jun 30, 2015 10:31
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Concerning 550W semi-/full-modular PSU's The Cooler master v550s is a good PSU right? In my country I can find it cheaper than: Seasonic G series Super flower Leadex XFX XTR EVGA GS
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Jun 30, 2015 10:33
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Hulebr00670065006e posted:Concerning 550W semi-/full-modular PSU's Yes, the VS series are high quality. How much is the price difference for a Leadex or GS? They are top quality gold units, so if the price difference is small it may be worth it.
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Jun 30, 2015 10:46
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BurritoJustice posted:Yes, the VS series are high quality. How much is the price difference for a Leadex or GS? They are top quality gold units, so if the price difference is small it may be worth it. Just to double check: I know the V series is seasonic built, but is the V***S series also seasonic? I tried looking it up once at it was a little confusing, coolermaster has a huge mishmash of different OEMSs
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Jun 30, 2015 10:55
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The Lord Bude posted:Just to double check: I know the V series is seasonic built, but is the V***S series also seasonic? I tried looking it up once at it was a little confusing, coolermaster has a huge mishmash of different OEMSs The VS series is actually made by Enhance, a lesser known OEM. Still well made and with high quality componentry.
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Jun 30, 2015 11:11
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BurritoJustice posted:Yes, the VS series are high quality. How much is the price difference for a Leadex or GS? They are top quality gold units, so if the price difference is small it may be worth it. Can't actually find a super flower leadex lower than 750W looking again and the evga gs (the 2nd cheapest of what I listed) is approx 25$ more than the cooler master vs. The other day I saw a leadex 650w for the same price as the 550vs. Now they don't even list a 650 leadex. Must have been a mistake I think. Shoulda jumped at the opportunity. Hulebr00670065006e fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 11:15
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Zodack posted:Fellas, Are you going to be taking this desktop to school with you, keeping it in a dorm or whatever? I ask because you can fit a full performance desktop into a really tiny form factor these days. I have a few issues with the above build so let me give you 3 options, mainly based around Case/Form factor: Option A - Compact mATX tower PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($86.98 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK 82.1 CFM 140mm Fan ($14.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: LG 23MP57HQ-P 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1324.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-30 06:22 EDT-0400 Option B - Slightly smaller mITX tower PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.98 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($86.98 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: BitFenix BFF-SPRO-23030KK-RP 156.3 CFM 230mm Fan ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK 82.1 CFM 140mm Fan ($14.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: LG 23MP57HQ-P 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1364.74 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-30 06:26 EDT-0400 Option C - super small console sized form factor PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12LS_BK 53.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($36.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case: Silverstone RVZ01B Mini ITX Desktop Case ($79.99 @ Directron) Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Gold 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($88.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) ($86.98 @ OutletPC) Monitor: LG 23MP57HQ-P 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1371.76 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-30 06:33 EDT-0400 Additional notes: Add a wifi adapter (intel please) if you need one (Builds B and C already come with wifi built into the mobo). I kept the 16gb of RAM, because I'm not sure if that will be hugely useful to your work stuff or not - if you don't think it will be, drop down to 8gb, which is fine for any gaming build. The coolermaster Hyper 212 EVO is there because the Cryorig H7 is hard to find in the US at the moment. If you can get your hands on an H7, buy one of those instead. Add a DVD drive if you feel you need one - many people do without these days. Build A will require an external USB optical drive, build C can take a slimline slot loader (but they cost a fortune and you should just buy an external drive). The key thing to look for in a Screen is that it is IPS - if you want more detailed advice beyond that you should consult the monitor thread. Build C will likely be a bit noisier than the other two options - a price you pay for small size, since it means smaller noisier fans.
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Jun 30, 2015 11:33
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BurritoJustice posted:The VS series is actually made by Enhance, a lesser known OEM. Still well made and with high quality componentry. Ah, thanks.
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Jun 30, 2015 11:34
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Zodack posted:The only other mention-able is that I don't overclock. I've got enough to worry about (see: building a PC). You might save like 50-75 bux by getting an h97 motherboard and not getting a k series cpu. I personally don't recommend getting the non-k i5, and looking at your budget, the non-k i7 is out of reach. I'd keep your build as is because at 1080p that i5/970 will let you max out the settings on every currently available game, and probably a good deal of the upcoming ones. SP120 fans are for being mounted right up against something, HDD cage, radiator, huge cpu cooler, etc. I'd get the AF120's unless your (or the pcpartpicker guy who originially put together that list) plan on using those fans on the CPU cooler as opposed to mounting somewhere in the case, which would probably be a good idea. I know you don't care about OC-ing but there isn't a lot of different ways to both save money and get better parts beyond the list you have now and if you cant get the non-k-i7 you might as well stick with the i5-4690k just in terms of value/$. I mean, you can get the non-k i5 (its a newegg price difference of 225 and 239 respectively) but it doesnt really make sense to. Low effort overclocking on z97 motherboards is literally just making the CPU multiplier a bigger number and then making sure it doesnt get too hot under load, should you decide to take advantage of those features one day if you were to buy that parts list as-is. If i would change /anything/ about your list I would get the "msi gaming 4g gtx 970" because of it's superior cooling. Maybe you can look for a gold rated power supply in the OP and change that out too. There's really nothing worth changing from that list in terms of both "spend less money for the same performance" and "spend slightly more for noticeably more performance", i5-4690k and the gtx 970 are pretty much the value per dollar "sweet spot" right now if you plan to play games at 1080p. The i5 is more than capable of compiling software and whatnot too, I regularly compile entire android system images and it takes, idk... an hour and a half, 2 hours.
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Jun 30, 2015 11:44
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The Lord Bude posted:Are you going to be taking this desktop to school with you, keeping it in a dorm or whatever? I ask because you can fit a full performance desktop into a really tiny form factor these days. I have a few issues with the above build so let me give you 3 options, mainly based around Case/Form factor: This is a desktop that will follow me to school and stay in my dorm/apartment, yes. I appreciate that you added a monitor to those builds - I'm fairly clueless about that stuff. Option B looks the most appealing - I think for a first-time build I don't want to deal with something too small, plus I really like the aesthetic of the case. The builds are a good price and I can shave off about $30 by getting a student discount on Windows 8.1. It'll leave a nice reserve to help get a class laptop as well, something maybe $300-400. Honestly, I can just sell my old laptop to my folks or aunt for that much as a worst-case and just get a new machine that way. It doesn't leave a lot of wiggle room in my initial budget, but I have other savings I can use if I need to. Incomplete Fish posted:You might save like 50-75 bux by getting an h97 motherboard and not getting a k series cpu. I personally don't recommend getting the non-k i5, and looking at your budget, the non-k i7 is out of reach. I'd keep your build as is because at 1080p that i5/970 will let you max out the settings on every currently available game, and probably a good deal of the upcoming ones. I'll look into that GPU (looks about just $20 more), I think the guy who did the build said that he picked it because it was the "cheapest available". As it stands I could probably afford to use all $1500 on a desktop (not sure if that's a good idea or not, although Lord Bude's builds are pretty appealing and come close; granted, I can drop back to an i5 on those and save $100) and then sell my old laptop to afford a cheap new one, or cut some kind of in-between. I feel kind of like a desktop Philistine: paranoid and worried about building, unconfident on OC, and lacking quite a bit of knowledge about hardware. I appreciate you both taking the time to look over what I posted and school me on it. Zodack fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 12:05
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Don't worry about overclocking, I just mentioned it because your partlist was compatible with it and because I wanted to point out its not really worth going down to the non-k i5 just because you're not interested in OC. If you do decide to spend all of your budget on a desktop, (including a monitor) you could pretty much redo every single part and get like, the good i7 and a 980. If you choose to go this route it would be very worthwhile to make another post. The Lord Bude posted:The gtx 980 is really bad value for money compared to the 970 and the 980ti - the 970 is also more than adequate for 1080p gaming - it's entry level 1440p territory really. suggesting someone get more than a 970 for 1080p is pretty ridiculous. I don't disagree, but I will say that I was very humbled when I went to go look at benchmarks after reading your post. The 970 is way more potent than I thought..... it even turns out SLI 970's are kinda sorta equivalent performance wise to a Titan X. Still, regardless, I think if he were to do his entire budget it would be worth making another post. Incomplete Fish fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 12:23
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Zodack posted:This is a desktop that will follow me to school and stay in my dorm/apartment, yes. I appreciate that you added a monitor to those builds - I'm fairly clueless about that stuff. Option B looks the most appealing - I think for a first-time build I don't want to deal with something too small, plus I really like the aesthetic of the case. The bitfenix prodigy is a great case - those handles and feet are a tad flimsy though - they absolutely aren't intended to be used for lifting the case for eg. They are decorative, and the bottom ones are designed to buckle a bit under the weight of the case - they are a soft material. It's also pretty easy to build in (I have one myself). The key thing to remember is that in an mITX case installing one part can prevent you from reaching something else, so you need to plan what you're going to do in advance. You can find youtube videos of people assembling a PC in a Prodigy. You replace the stock fans with a 230mm front fan and a 140mm rear fan to optimise the airflow. Also bare in mind that different colours of the case are slightly different - some have mesh sides (essential for allowing the GPU to draw cool air from outside the case), others have windows. Most have solid front panels, which neuter air flow. The black prodigy however has a mesh front panel (filtered) and a ventilated side. On the i5 vs the i7 - the i7-4790K has such a high clockspeed out of the box that you can't really overclock it further without spending serious money on hardcore cooling. The i5, taken as far as you can on normal person coolers, will reach about what the i7 does out of the box - but you need a more expensive z97 motherboard to overclock it,a more expensive CPU cooler to cool it; and you need to go through the fuss of overclocking the CPU. That's why we often suggest the i7 plus a cheaper H97 motherboard. Plus that way you get hyperthreading, which may help your database workload. (the SSD definitely will). The MSI is the best gtx970 - the Asus comes a close second. For $30 difference, and because I was skirting close to your budget, I went with the Asus, but both a perfectly good purchases. Remember to overclock the GPU - it's very simple (unlike CPU overclocking) and you leave 20% performance at least behind if you don't. Beyond that, there isn't really anything you can do to give you a value for money improvement to those builds - maybe buy a 500gb SSD if you have more money to play with, since you'll probably want to put your databases and stuff on it. Beyond that, money would be better spent upgrading keyboard/mouse/headphones/etc. Incomplete Fish posted:If you do decide to spend all of your budget on a desktop, (including a monitor) you could pretty much redo every single part and get like, the good i7 and a 980. If you choose to go this route it would be very worthwhile to make another post. The gtx 980 is really bad value for money compared to the 970 and the 980ti - the 970 is also more than adequate for 1080p gaming - it's entry level 1440p territory really. suggesting someone get more than a 970 for 1080p is pretty ridiculous. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 12:40
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edit: i meant to edit my old post not post this one im dumb
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Jun 30, 2015 12:59
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BurritoJustice posted:Do you have any source on the Seagate SMART data thing? All I have ever heard about it is hearsay, and google returns nothing (pretty damning for what is supposedly such a big issue). All I know is that over a year ago I had a Seagate 1 TB disk that kept locking up, and the whole computer with it, yet it passed all SeaTools tests. When I went to Haus, Alereon mentioned the same "Seagate hides errors" thing (no source though) and we found out it had close to 2000 reallocated sectors and an even higher threshold. Maybe they just are that confident their drives aren't really breaking down even though they're internally replacing sectors constantly, or maybe a bit later it would have failed completely. Either way, I understand hard disks fail but I'm not going to make things worse by getting products from a manufacturer who seems to be trying to hide disk health because it may or may not turn into an expensive RMA.
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Jun 30, 2015 14:03
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orcane posted:All I know is that over a year ago I had a Seagate 1 TB disk that kept locking up, and the whole computer with it, yet it passed all SeaTools tests. When I went to Haus, Alereon mentioned the same "Seagate hides errors" thing (no source though) and we found out it had close to 2000 reallocated sectors and an even higher threshold. Maybe they just are that confident their drives aren't really breaking down even though they're internally replacing sectors constantly, or maybe a bit later it would have failed completely. A program not calling particular SMART errors a fail and SMART not reporting particular errors are completely different things. Most programs work on older assumptions that you can have errors on your disks (reallocated sectors and the like) and they can still function, whereas the more modern ideal is that as soon as a drive experiences errors of any sort it is on its way out. The problem in your case is Seatools being mediocre, as I'm assuming the SMART data was indeed correct and that is how you got the figure of "2000 reallocated sectors". So yeah, Seatools might be a bit ambitious but that doesn't mean the drive isn't reporting errors in its SMART data. Again, this seems to be all be circular hearsay (mostly from Alereon).
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Jun 30, 2015 15:28
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:For the Windows install, you really want to back stuff up and do a new install when you move to a new system. Windows will detect that they system is pretty much new and you will need to call MS to get them to activate windows for you, at least that was how it worked for my last rebuild, dunno if anything has changed since then. Thanks again... Hopefully I can dredge up my old Win7 disc somewhere... I really dislike Win 8. As for transport I might just try and get a case in Turkey and just bring all my good stuff like GPU CPU etc in my carryon to avoid thievery. Do you think the case I currently have is insufficient and needs to be bigger?
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Jun 30, 2015 15:38
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Mr. Grapes! posted:Thanks again... Hopefully I can dredge up my old Win7 disc somewhere... I really dislike Win 8. Assuming you have access to your Windows 7 key then you can download a suitable image from Microsoft - http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-recovery
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Jun 30, 2015 16:32
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