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Changed the oil in the Ion about an hour and a half ago. Only a couple of hundred miles after the "change oil" alarm went off. It's had nothing but various versions of Mobil 1 since I've owned it. The last oil change was Mobil 1 High Mileage, with a Napa Gold (aka Wix) filter.  Okay, that filter has seen better days. I didn't expect that much deformation, especially for only 7900 miles, but it has 6 months on it.  One word comes to mind: gently caress! I had a Blackstone kit here, got a sample mid-stream, so we'll see just how bad this is. There's a slight chance this is just... condensation. I hope.  It sees 99% short trips (under 5 miles each way), and has a stuck thermostat. On the coldest days, it'll get up to 150-160 and toss a check engine light (always the same code, poor thermostat performance), but with the heat wave it hits its normal 180-185. Last summer saw it hitting 215+ in traffic, with a 180 degree thermostat, which makes me think the thermostat has been stuck for a very long time. The ECU doesn't even kick on the fan until the engine hits about 210F, unless the a/c is on. The only reason I didn't think this was abnormal is the rental 2008 Cobalt I had for 6 weeks in 2010 ran just as hot (actually, a bit hotter, I saw as high as 225F) in traffic.
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Jan 30, 2015 13:20
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| # ? May 25, 2024 15:01 |
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I filled its tires since they all seemed a bit low (hadn't checked in a few months...), then one decided to go flat by lunchtime. Filled it back up and dicked about with the valvestem plunger, hopefully it doesn't leak again. I swear, every time I do something nice for it, it goes and shits on my parade.
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Jan 30, 2015 13:24
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that reminds me. Bought those silly valve stem caps that show green when close to 32 PSI, red when way far out. Put them on during the oil change. 3 of them show red. Removes a lot of  from actually using a tire gauge.(doorjamb sticker shows 32 PSI all the way around) I'm a life lesson in lazy.
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Jan 30, 2015 13:28
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some texas redneck posted:that reminds me. Don't loving use those. They stick out from the rim, and the cap can break off or leak very easily, leaving you with essentially an open valve stem that promptly vents all the air from the tire.
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Jan 30, 2015 23:57
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Changed plugs and one of the ignition coils in the dakota. Worked on getting one of those bolts out of the underside of the zx2, but it won't budge. I beat on it with a hammer and center punch for a while and it didn't move. I tried using the floor jack to push the punch upwards and press the bolt out using the car's weight, but instead the bolt stayed in place and the front half of the car started to rise instead. Last attempt was to drill the bolt out, but my biggest drill bit was 1/16th of an inch narrower than the bolt so I need to buy a bigger one. I didn't bother messing with the other bolt at all because it's completely enclosed in the frame. Even if I remove that one there is no way to put a new bolt in its place.
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Feb 1, 2015 02:16
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Fucknag posted:Don't loving use those. They stick out from the rim, and the cap can break off or leak very easily, leaving you with essentially an open valve stem that promptly vents all the air from the tire. Valve stem caps shouldn't be an essential part of the valve. What are you talking about? I mean, you want caps to keep dirt out and corrosion down, but I don't see how a missing cap can cause prompt venting to atmosphere.
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Feb 1, 2015 03:01
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My BRZ was hit by a Volvo, their insurance adjuster gave a $6700 estimate so far. I noticed a bent coilover while swapping the factory wheels at the body shop and I'm wondering how much more damage might be there? I also doubt the insurance will pay for a set of 4 coilovers, and I don't know how I'd get one individually. I'm considering some options, like selling the car as is and putting the insurance money towards something else, or just getting zipties and one new headlight. Are those terrible ideas?   
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Feb 1, 2015 04:40
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You might be able to talk to the manufacturer and see what can be done.
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Feb 1, 2015 05:34
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Geirskogul posted:Valve stem caps shouldn't be an essential part of the valve. What are you talking about? I mean, you want caps to keep dirt out and corrosion down, but I don't see how a missing cap can cause prompt venting to atmosphere. Normal dust caps that would be the case, but these are different.  They depress the schrader valve inside the stem so that air pressure pushes against a spring. When pressure overcomes tension, that green bit covers up the red bit and your pressure's good. That's the thing, though: instead of a nice, sturdy metal valve stem and valve holding pressure in, your weak point is now that clear plastic cap that's basically press-fit into place. And, especially in places with a lot of sun like Florida or Texas, plastic gets brittle really drat quick due to UV exposure, which leads to them cracking at the slightest provocation. And remember that the cap has depressed the schrader valve when you screwed it on, and that bit is still intact, and is now venting your tires.
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Feb 1, 2015 07:59
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Chriskory posted:My BRZ was hit by a Volvo, their insurance adjuster gave a $6700 estimate so far. It would be one thing if your policy was covering the car (they'd probably tell you to go pound sand because you didn't declare aftermarket equipment values, or even if you did they're generally honeypots so the insurer can collect more money from you for something they'll never cover), but since the other person is apparently at fault you shouldn't have to settle just because a non-stock part was damaged. If they can't source you a single coilover that's their problem.
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Feb 1, 2015 08:12
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Took the amp out because it started going crazy. Crosspost http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908&pagenumber=38&perpage=40#post440967053
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Feb 1, 2015 15:21
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Geoj posted:
Exactly. They owe for all the damage. I'm sure they can get a single coilover, it's not like this is an uncommon scenario.
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Feb 1, 2015 17:24
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Chriskory posted:My BRZ was hit by a Volvo, their insurance adjuster gave a $6700 estimate so far. That sucks, I really liked your car.  I'd get it fixed properly and try getting another coilover on it. Press insurance to deal with the fix, IMO.
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Feb 1, 2015 19:06
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Chriskory posted:My BRZ was hit by a Volvo, their insurance adjuster gave a $6700 estimate so far. I had a really similar situation with my 135i a couple months back. I had one off wheels on it which were damaged when some dude decided to drift through a parking lot into my car. Since the wheels were no longer available the body shop basically gave me a choice of any wheel on the market with a similar value. I ended up getting a new set of wheels since the original wheels were no longer available and they were obligated to fix the car back to the way it was. It went as far as them contacting the manufacturer and trying to get 2 more wheels made but I didn't want to wait the ~3 months they quoted them so I took option B.
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Feb 1, 2015 22:28
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New milestone on the Wrangler. I think I may have to update my yearly mileage estimates with my insurance company. New stubby antenna and more decals next week. Why on earth Jeep decided to equip the JK Wranglers with the largest and most flexible A pillar destroying AM/FM antenna is beyond me.
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Feb 1, 2015 22:28
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Another Sunday spent working on the Mini. First job was to put a new clutch master cylinder on - why a car with an 848cc engine has a hydraulic clutch I do not know: Pretty simple job in itself - just unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one and bleed the system. The only part that was a ball-ache (literally) was getting at the clevis that attaches the pedal to the master cylinder rod, which is right up in an awkard recess in the firewall, so you have to take a rather undignified position to get to it:  It was worth it though, as after resetting the linkage clearances I now have a clutch with the biting point in the proper place rather than 3mm off the floor and the gearbox that doesn't crunch on every change. Next up was changing the water pump, which has been grumbling ever since running dry following a serious head gasket failure. This is a job to strike fear into Mini owners everywhere, simply due to the terrible access at every single stage. For example:  Having taken the top half of the fan shroud off you have to get the fan off before lifting out the radiator. The only way to do this is to slide a slim spanner down the front of the fan and tease each bolt off one-half of a flat at a time until it's loose enough to undo by fingertips.  Exhibit B: There's a wonderfully convenient hole in the inner wing to get at the radiator bottom mounting bolts (is the Mini the only car where you have to remove a wheel to change a water pump?) but it's there only for the benefit of whoever had to do them up in the factory. As you can see, there's a solid brake line running across it so you can barely swing the spanner (hindsight says that I should have a set of ratchet spanners - or it would be quicker to remove the brake line and just rebleed the system),  The old pump looked fine (they're often horribly clogged up) and there was no play, just noise from the bearings. So it can serve as an Emergency Sunday Afternoon Replacement Spare.  New pump on. Putting everything back together was just as much of a bitch as taking it apart, so I was finishing up just as it got dark. But now the engine purrs at idle, instead of rumbling, so it was worth the pain and the spilt blood.
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Feb 1, 2015 22:30
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How much slack is in the soft brake line there? You might be able to get some extra clearance by pulling the retaining clip that mounts the soft line to the chassis, and bend the line slightly up out of the way. But yeah, ratcheting wrenches are the bees knees.
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Feb 1, 2015 22:49
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Got RS-3 V2s mounted on the M3 and played with coding so I have shift lights on my manual car and sport mode memory. Next step is getting M-Track mode.
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Feb 1, 2015 23:08
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Raluek posted:How much slack is in the soft brake line there? You might be able to get some extra clearance by pulling the retaining clip that mounts the soft line to the chassis, and bend the line slightly up out of the way. That's a good idea! There's quite a lot of slack. In the photo the front end of the car's on axle stands so the suspension is at full drop. Really the line needs to be lower - the reason I was having to poke the spanner in through the loop of the brake line rather than above it was because the mounting bolts for the rad don't sit flat on the subframe, they sit at an angle pointing slightly outboard, so if you approached from the top of the access hole the spanner just wouldn't fit. Ratchets are the answer
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Feb 1, 2015 23:20
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BalloonFish posted:That's a good idea! There's quite a lot of slack. In the photo the front end of the car's on axle stands so the suspension is at full drop. Really the line needs to be lower - the reason I was having to poke the spanner in through the loop of the brake line rather than above it was because the mounting bolts for the rad don't sit flat on the subframe, they sit at an angle pointing slightly outboard, so if you approached from the top of the access hole the spanner just wouldn't fit. Yeah you're right, looks like the line would go down rather than up once you pull the clip out.
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Feb 1, 2015 23:27
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BalloonFish posted:Another Sunday spent working on the Mini. First job was to put a new clutch master cylinder on - why a car with an 848cc engine has a hydraulic clutch I do not know: Haha - that's the same clutch master as on a Saab 99 - and the replacement procedure is exactly the same involving lots of lying upside down and cursing to insert the pin.
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Feb 2, 2015 00:33
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Tomarse posted:Haha - that's the same clutch master as on a Saab 99 - and the replacement procedure is exactly the same involving lots of lying upside down and cursing to insert the pin. The clutch hydraulics from a Mini and the engine from a Triumph Dolomite? What were Saab thinking? 
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Feb 2, 2015 00:40
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Started stripping my c10 down to start rebuilding it. Front clip bed doors and all glass removed. We are close to go time.
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Feb 2, 2015 16:23
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I did the transmission and differential oils in my Miata today. The drat fill plug on the transmission was in so tight I needed to use the jack to force the wrench, had to do it several times too as it only came loose after about a whole turn. Got a nice cut on my elbow and an exhaust burn for my troubles and while the car really doesn't feel that different I'm just glad it's done for now.
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Feb 2, 2015 16:34
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msghall1229 posted:Started stripping my c10 down to start rebuilding it. Front clip bed doors and all glass removed. We are close to go time. What year is it? I have a 67 and you should make a thread for yours.
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Feb 2, 2015 16:39
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RillAkBea posted:I did the transmission and differential oils in my Miata today. The drat fill plug on the transmission was in so tight I needed to use the jack to force the wrench, had to do it several times too as it only came loose after about a whole turn. Got a nice cut on my elbow and an exhaust burn for my troubles and while the car really doesn't feel that different I'm just glad it's done for now. This is why I always tell people to remove the fill plug first. Better to find out you can't put new fluid in a gearbox when it still has the old fluid in it...
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Feb 2, 2015 17:06
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BalloonFish posted:Another Sunday spent working on the Mini. First job was to put a new clutch master cylinder on - why a car with an 848cc engine has a hydraulic clutch I do not know: Hydraulic clutches have a much better feel than mechanical linkages. I've driven larger vehicles with mechanical clutch linkages, they alway feel clunky and poppy compared to a hydraulic clutch.
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Feb 2, 2015 18:06
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EightBit posted:Hydraulic clutches have a much better feel than mechanical linkages. I've driven larger vehicles with mechanical clutch linkages, they alway feel clunky and poppy compared to a hydraulic clutch. On a bigger car, or one with a heavier-duty drivetrain, I'd quite agree, but as well as the Mini I have a Citroen 2CV with a cable clutch and the action is just as good, if not slightly better. I've driven plenty of other cars with sub-2-litre engines with cable clutched and frankly can't tell the difference between them and all the BMC/British Leyland stuff with hydraulic clutches. I did think that it might be to do with how packed-in everything is to the Mini's engine bay - maybe the cable runs would be too tight for smooth operation - but that doesn't explain why there was a fad for every British car, no matter how small, having a hydraulic clutch in the 50s and 60s. I actually think it's just part of the general approach in the industry at the time, which obsessed with zany high-end engineering details like rubber suspension, hydraulic clutches on everything, gearbox in the sump, the world's smallest production disc brakes, all-alloy OHC engines in cars designed to putter to the shops and back etc. etc. etc. etc. but never bothered to do the basic stuff like engines that retained their oil, bodies that kept the rain out and electrics that actually stood up to the British climate.
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Feb 2, 2015 19:08
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Metal vacuum fitting in your throttle body? Hell yes I'm going to POP RIGHT THE gently caress OUT while you're replacing 25 year old brake booster hoses. 
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Feb 3, 2015 23:17
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RTV it and shove it back in  no, seriously e; I knew RTV was the wrong, lovely PO answer, but JB Weld was completely escaping my brain when I posted. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Feb 4, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 23:19
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gently caress RTV, brakleen that bastard (throttle body cleaner actually) and the hole it goes into and jb weld it. It will literally be fine.
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Feb 3, 2015 23:46
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RillAkBea posted:I did the transmission and differential oils in my Miata today. The drat fill plug on the transmission was in so tight I needed to use the jack to force the wrench, had to do it several times too as it only came loose after about a whole turn. Got a nice cut on my elbow and an exhaust burn for my troubles and while the car really doesn't feel that different I'm just glad it's done for now. I put Rotella T6 in my NA's motor, Motul Gear 300 in the trans, and Amsoil SVG in the diff the other weekend. Previously I had Mobile 1 10W30, Redline MT90, and Mobile 1 75W140 (or what ever it is you put in the diff). Havent done anything crazy yet and mine feels about the same. Shifting is worse when its cold and feels a little better to me when hot but that could be my imagination. Havent got a lot of heat in the motor yet but seems to keep a little more pressure hot than before.
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Feb 4, 2015 02:15
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I went to tokyo and therefore SuperAutoBacs. Brought back new hotness. poo poo is close now. 
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Feb 5, 2015 01:04
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Hey neat, I also bought a new steering wheel today.
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Feb 5, 2015 02:01
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DropShadow posted:Hey neat, I also bought a new steering wheel today. That's an expensive present.
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Feb 6, 2015 05:18
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Just fixed the horn on my clio by beating the hell out of it with a hammer. 
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Feb 6, 2015 11:13
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GoodbyeTurtles posted:Just fixed the horn on my clio by beating the hell out of it with a hammer. I fixed mine by replacing it with Mitsuba Proud Horns I bought at the same time as the steering wheel above. the installation of my intercooler seemed to have interfered with the original (aftermarket) Mitsuba horns and made them sound like they were full of water when you shook them. these ones fit better (smaller) and sound better!
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Feb 6, 2015 11:24
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wallaka posted:That's an expensive present. Nothing but the best for my 4cyl automatic station wagon.
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Feb 6, 2015 19:13
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I washed it for the first time in at least 6 months. Taking a date on a mountain run after breakfast tomorrow so I can be scaring her in a dirty rear end race car. 
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Feb 6, 2015 23:11
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| # ? May 25, 2024 15:01 |
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Put the vic push bar on the sti.
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Feb 6, 2015 23:21
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