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I think thats an apple technology. Not sure if anyone else uses it.
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Nov 17, 2016 20:34
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Appletv works fine with whatever.
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Nov 18, 2016 00:32
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So I bought the C7, and using my old wifi card I'm getting something like 20MBPS. What wifi card should I get to take advantage? Am I really looking at ~$50?
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Nov 18, 2016 06:57
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Is there any difference between the C9 and the Netgear Nighthawk series besides cost? I see the Nighthawk has a better rating on Amazon.
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Nov 19, 2016 03:05
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E2M2 posted:So I bought the C7, and using my old wifi card I'm getting something like 20MBPS. What wifi card should I get to take advantage? Am I really looking at ~$50? Not really? Also if you have something that you don't need to carry around, like a desktop, and getting one of these is too much, consider picking up a bargain bin AC router, plugging into its ethernet jack, and setting its mode to Media Bridge Mode to connect to your Archer C7.
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Nov 19, 2016 07:48
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Pooperscooper posted:Is there any difference between the C9 and the Netgear Nighthawk series besides cost? I see the Nighthawk has a better rating on Amazon. To give you an idea of the power you're spending for on the Archer C9: its CPU and general radio setup have the same Broadcom (BCM4709) ARM Cortex-A9 pedigree as more expensive offerings like the Asus RT-AC68 family and the venerable Nighthawk R7000. But really, please just get the C9 and leave it on stock firmware, unless there is actually a very specific feature wireless routers can offer that you absolutely know you can not live without--there's not going to be a noticeable difference in reliability or speed between AC1900 routers for most people. You are most people, right? Sidesaddle Cavalry fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 08:05
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I recently got a Ubiquiti Amplifi mesh system to replace my C7. If your needs are just "plug in and forget it" I highly recommend this - it just works. I don't love that you use a smartphone app for configuration, but neither was it an issue at all - the app is intuitive. I was able to quickly reserve some static DHCP leases and set up port forwarding, which is about as advanced as this thing gets but also as advanced as my needs. I'd recommend it for most normal users, particularly parents. One thing I don't like is the lack of USB ports - no adding drives or printers easily if that is something you need. But the performance is excellent. I found that the base router has a much stronger signal than the C7, and then adding the two mesh points greatly enhanced the coverage throughout my sprawling house.
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Nov 19, 2016 13:21
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Got a weird question that maybe somebody here can help with. I recently moved around our TV in our house so now it's connected to my PC via a powerline connector (ethernet through home wiring) along with a couple other things (roku, xbox, smart TV) via an ethernet switch. My PC is now plugged directly into the router when before it was connected to the powerline connector. Before, I was able to easily stream media from my PC to my TV using Serviio. Now, I can't seem to get a connection for Serviio even though my TV is picked up by my PC as on my network. I've refreshed Serviio and it finds the TV but for some reason I can't connect. Before I was using an old wifi router with 5 ports as a switch and thought that might be screwing things up, so I bought an actual ethernet switch and it still does the same thing. Where should I start troubleshooting? For the record, the Roku2 works just fine and gets ethernet supplied, but it doesn't seem as though my TV hard wire connection works. If I plug the powerline connector directly into the TV, Serviio works and gets a connection, so something is getting screwed up in the switch region but I'm not sure where to go from here.
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Nov 19, 2016 20:43
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So I purchased the Gigabyte adapter mentioned a few pages ago because my ancient USB adapter has been dropping me more frequently.. I got it installed, windows installed the latest drivers and it worked fine.. But it's slower than my old USB TP-Link tl-wn722N. I could get download speeds of 1.4MB regularly on that.. But this 8260 seems to max put at 1MB, but most often only in the 800k MB range. I've reinstalled fresh drivers from Intels website, did various tweaks mentioned in intel forum, and moved the antenna around, but still can't pass 1MB. It is connecting via 802.11n to uverse router, same as in the past. Did I get a bad card? Or is it because i installed the bluetooth USB cable, splitting the power? i've disabled that in Windows, and if it really is the problem, i can reinstall the card?
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Nov 20, 2016 01:57
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Femur posted:So I purchased the Gigabyte adapter mentioned a few pages ago because my ancient USB adapter has been dropping me more frequently.. I got it installed, windows installed the latest drivers and it worked fine.. Might be related to congestion on the 2.4GHz band. Download Acrylic WiFi and see which channel (1, 6, or 11) has the least amount of users and switch to that.
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Nov 20, 2016 02:28
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Rukus posted:Might be related to congestion on the 2.4GHz band. Download Acrylic WiFi and see which channel (1, 6, or 11) has the least amount of users and switch to that. I am on 6, everyone else is 11, and 2 1, 3 on 6 I just plugged back in the old usb adapter and getting 1.1MB, the 8620 was in the 800s. Femur fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 03:17
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Femur posted:I am on 6, everyone else is 11, and 2 1, 3 on 6 Is this an internal adapter? Try a different pci-e slot
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Nov 20, 2016 04:07
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Don Lapre posted:Is this an internal adapter? Try a different pci-e slot Yes, the new one I have is the Gigabyte WB867D recommended earlier in the thread. I picked the slot farthest away from the gpu, space might be tight, but if it helps.. Can i leave the bluetooth connected?
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Nov 20, 2016 06:32
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Larrymer posted:Got a weird question that maybe somebody here can help with. I recently moved around our TV in our house so now it's connected to my PC via a powerline connector (ethernet through home wiring) along with a couple other things (roku, xbox, smart TV) via an ethernet switch. My PC is now plugged directly into the router when before it was connected to the powerline connector. Before, I was able to easily stream media from my PC to my TV using Serviio. Now, I can't seem to get a connection for Serviio even though my TV is picked up by my PC as on my network. I've refreshed Serviio and it finds the TV but for some reason I can't connect. Before I was using an old wifi router with 5 ports as a switch and thought that might be screwing things up, so I bought an actual ethernet switch and it still does the same thing. Only thing I notice is that my IP address for my TV changes from 192.168.1.67 (powerline) to 192.168.2.3 (switch). Ran through the network stuff from my TV menu and it says my TV has an internet connection, so all is well on that side. Maybe it's Serviio. Edit: I'm a dumbass. Turns out an old wifi modem increments my IP address (see above) and those two networks can't talk to each other or something, so says the internet. I plugged the switch back in and it works today. 
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 15:06
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Rukus posted:Might be related to congestion on the 2.4GHz band. Download Acrylic WiFi and see which channel (1, 6, or 11) has the least amount of users and switch to that. Thanks mate, this is a good program. Was looking for something like this for the last 2 days.
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Nov 20, 2016 15:27
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Larrymer posted:Only thing I notice is that my IP address for my TV changes from 192.168.1.67 (powerline) to 192.168.2.3 (switch). Ran through the network stuff from my TV menu and it says my TV has an internet connection, so all is well on that side. Maybe it's Serviio. FWIW, it looks like you might have multiple levels of NAT going on in your network. You're likely to get weird behavior and connectivity issues when some of your devices are double-NAT'ed. Unless you have a good reason not to, I'd shoot for one device (your internet router) doing NAT and handing out addresses via DHCP. Every other device should have DHCP turned off and be in "bridge mode" (or "passthrough mode" or whatever they call it; the important thing is that they're passing packets around dumbly and letting the main router handle things.
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Nov 20, 2016 21:24
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I'm looking for a way to hide my computer tower in my apartment, since it's a very small studio; ideally, I'd like to keep my computer tower in my one closet (about eight feet away from the monitor) and transmit audio and video wirelessly to my monitor and speakers. I already have a wireless keyboard and mouse, so it's just those two that I'm stuck on. Is there a best way or device that you all are aware of that could let me do this?
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Nov 21, 2016 01:16
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I'm looking at wiring my new home with ethernet, and am looking at switches for the first time in a long time. I'm looking at the TP-Link 24 power switch, and there's a 'Rackmount' version and a 'Desktop' version, but they don't really list the differences anywhere that I can see. The prices on Amazon are currently $69.99 for the rackmount, and $98.99 for the desktop version of the 24port switch. If I can save $30 going for the rackmount, and it's doable without a rack, then I'd rather go for that one. As seen here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BU0EKW Are the differences just cosmetic/method of mounting?
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Nov 21, 2016 05:10
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Ravendas posted:I'm looking at wiring my new home with ethernet, and am looking at switches for the first time in a long time. I'm looking at the TP-Link 24 power switch, and there's a 'Rackmount' version and a 'Desktop' version, but they don't really list the differences anywhere that I can see. The prices on Amazon are currently $69.99 for the rackmount, and $98.99 for the desktop version of the 24port switch. If I can save $30 going for the rackmount, and it's doable without a rack, then I'd rather go for that one. The rackmount version comes with attachable ears you can mount it in a rack with. You don't have to use them. I have the rackmount version of that switch on a shelf. It may have even had optional rubber feet in the box, I can't remember.
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Nov 21, 2016 05:18
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Pinball posted:I'm looking for a way to hide my computer tower in my apartment, since it's a very small studio; ideally, I'd like to keep my computer tower in my one closet (about eight feet away from the monitor) and transmit audio and video wirelessly to my monitor and speakers. I already have a wireless keyboard and mouse, so it's just those two that I'm stuck on. Is there a best way or device that you all are aware of that could let me do this? Steam link box...?
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Nov 21, 2016 05:53
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I have a wireless Xfinity router that my Google Pixel XL is having issues with. I live in a large apartment building with a lot of other wifi networks and I discovered it was on a pretty busy channel at 2.4GHZ. I tried setting my router settings to manually pick a channel and now my phone won't connect to my router at all. Android just says Authentication Problem and does not continue connecting.
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Nov 21, 2016 06:16
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Anyone know of any cheap routers with built-in bridging capability? I attempted to use my old ActionTec MI424 using DD-WRT. Bricked it. Not a big deal. Frankly I'd rather not deal with firmware updates and risk bricking something I care about. I've got a decent wifi signal outside my shed but inside it kills almost everything including cell coverage. It's like a lead lined box. I have tried to use a powerline adapter, however due to being on different circuits, the DL speed is cut to <5Mbps (wierdly enough upload is 7.25) so I want to run a wifi antenna outside through a hole in the shed and use a wireless router for my tv and PS4 inside. I just need a bridging router that isn't 100 bux because I've already wasted a lot of money on other ideas. Running cat5 outside is not going to work, it's about 60feet and I'd have to bury it.
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Nov 21, 2016 06:20
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Pinball posted:I'm looking for a way to hide my computer tower in my apartment, since it's a very small studio; ideally, I'd like to keep my computer tower in my one closet (about eight feet away from the monitor) and transmit audio and video wirelessly to my monitor and speakers. I already have a wireless keyboard and mouse, so it's just those two that I'm stuck on. Is there a best way or device that you all are aware of that could let me do this? Just use longer cables. Wireless is too unreliable for this.
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Nov 21, 2016 18:27
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Rexxed posted:The rackmount version comes with attachable ears you can mount it in a rack with. You don't have to use them. I have the rackmount version of that switch on a shelf. It may have even had optional rubber feet in the box, I can't remember. It's just weird the rackmount version is ~$30 cheaper with no real differences between them as far as I can tell.
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Nov 22, 2016 01:44
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As an FYI, my local shop recommended the Asus RT-N12/D1 300Mbps Wireless-N300 3-in-1 Router/ . I bought it and it was super easy to connect to my existing wifi and use it as a bridge.
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Nov 22, 2016 01:46
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Pinball posted:I'm looking for a way to hide my computer tower in my apartment, since it's a very small studio; ideally, I'd like to keep my computer tower in my one closet (about eight feet away from the monitor) and transmit audio and video wirelessly to my monitor and speakers. I already have a wireless keyboard and mouse, so it's just those two that I'm stuck on. Is there a best way or device that you all are aware of that could let me do this? If you have a line of sight connection to a good access point, you could do this with a Steam Link I think. I know that Steam streaming works great for me when I'm sitting in the same room as my AP, but much farther than that and it's hit or miss. You need a connection that can reliably do a steady 30Mbps or more, though, and it sounds like a much bigger pain in the rear end than just getting a 10' or 15' HDMI cable. (I also think you'd be locked to 1080p/60Hz max?) If your monitor has a 3.5mm audio output then you could presumably plug the speakers into that and use HDMI audio out to just have the one cable.
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Nov 22, 2016 02:10
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Is there any point in buying a 6x6 or 4x4 router if most of your devices are 2x2, or maybe 3x3? Do the extra streams just sit unused, or can multiple devices communicate at once?
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Nov 22, 2016 03:20
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zergstain posted:Is there any point in buying a 6x6 or 4x4 router if most of your devices are 2x2, or maybe 3x3? Do the extra streams just sit unused, or can multiple devices communicate at once? only if they all support mu-mimo
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Nov 22, 2016 03:59
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Probably a strange question, but can anyone tell me anything about wifi range extenders? Got about 900 feet between my router and my workshop, and really don't feel like dragging wire all over the place. Someone mentioned just getting an antenna setup but I have no idea what to even look for, and everything I see on amazon seems to be from '95 and doesn't support anything newer than winXP.
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Nov 22, 2016 04:53
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Naturally Selected posted:Probably a strange question, but can anyone tell me anything about wifi range extenders? Got about 900 feet between my router and my workshop, and really don't feel like dragging wire all over the place. Someone mentioned just getting an antenna setup but I have no idea what to even look for, and everything I see on amazon seems to be from '95 and doesn't support anything newer than winXP. I haven't used them, but these are probably good: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833664013
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Nov 22, 2016 05:01
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CrazyLittle posted:only if they all support mu-mimo I don't think they do. So something like the AC87U would be pointless unless some devices had 4 antennas?
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Nov 22, 2016 05:17
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I know not ideal, but how well does a 3 pack of UAP-AC-Lites work, with only one of them hard wired? Is this effectively the same as the 'mesh' systems that are coming out now, or is there more to meshing?
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Nov 22, 2016 13:19
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MeKeV posted:I know not ideal, but how well does a 3 pack of UAP-AC-Lites work, with only one of them hard wired? While they may mesh wirelessly, they are not designed to do this as their main function. I suggest if you want mesh APs that work consistently and don't require reboots try OpenMesh units. Specifically this: https://www.amazon.com/Open-Mesh-OM...ywords=openmesh
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Nov 22, 2016 15:18
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MeKeV posted:I know not ideal, but how well does a 3 pack of UAP-AC-Lites work, with only one of them hard wired? They work fine, but as in most wirelessly uplinked systems, each wireless hop cuts the available bandwidth in half. (i.e. If a wired AP is capable of 450Mbps real throughput, the wireless uplink APs will top out at 225Mbps) For the UniFi system, the APs you intend on being wireless still have to be "adopted" to the controller software via a wired connection. Once they are adopted you can make them wireless. Instructions here: https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/205146000-UniFi-Set-up-UAPs-in-wireless-uplink-topology (ignore the bit about wireless uplink not being available on UAP-AC units, this is no longer true)
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Nov 22, 2016 15:26
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MeKeV posted:I know not ideal, but how well does a 3 pack of UAP-AC-Lites work, with only one of them hard wired? Its basically the same thing. Although there is something to be said for how efficiently the software manages the spectrum and, in the case of three APs, load balances traffic across the two paths (think of it like a triangle, there are always two paths between any two points). Said software might vary quite a bit from vendor to vendor. I don't know if any of the mesh systems out there include more than one 5ghz antenna but if they do they could use one for the mesh and the other for client communication. This would be a serious speed improvement over single antenna designs (like the UAP). You could do the same thing with the 2.4ghz spectrum but there are only 3 non overlapping channels in the 2.4ghz band and what space there is tends to be quite crowded so it would be less efficient than doing it with the 5ghz band. Ideally each AP would have three antennas for the 5ghz band for 2x mesh connections and a client connection all running at once and then two 2.4ghz antennas for an uplink and a client connection. So 5ghz would be a mesh with each AP connected to two others and 2.4ghz would be more like connect the dots with each AP connected to one other AP. Then the software would need to dynamically control which APs connect to which other APs and on what bands dynamically based on traffic load and spectrum interference. But hardware costs money to make and software costs money to write and there is always a limit on how much people are willing to spend. So corners will be cut somewhere along the line. Also without a central controller there is a limit to how far such a network can scale due to the CPU power of the APs and the bandwidth between them that can be used for mesh management traffic. In any case, I have never used a UAP in wireless up-link mode myself. So I am not sure how it would compare to something like the Eero. Does the Eero have more than one 5ghz antenna in each AP? Antillie fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 15:27
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Eletriarnation posted:If you have a line of sight connection to a good access point, you could do this with a Steam Link I think. I know that Steam streaming works great for me when I'm sitting in the same room as my AP, but much farther than that and it's hit or miss. You need a connection that can reliably do a steady 30Mbps or more, though, and it sounds like a much bigger pain in the rear end than just getting a 10' or 15' HDMI cable. (I also think you'd be locked to 1080p/60Hz max?) If your monitor has a 3.5mm audio output then you could presumably plug the speakers into that and use HDMI audio out to just have the one cable. I checked out the Steam Link; it looks pretty suitable for my purposes. Will it work if my only monitor is connected to the Link and not to the tower for setup? The long HDMI cable is also a good idea; I'd just need to figure out how to hide it along the walls of the room. Thank you for the advice!
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Nov 22, 2016 16:21
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I don't know how/if Steam streaming works with a headless PC, I've only ever used it with a monitor attached to the source machine.
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Nov 22, 2016 18:49
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I work about half a mile from my house. Work is a large academic institution with lots of wifi coverage and both "free" (AT&T) and institutional (eduroam) networks. My neighborhood is full of trees and I don't have direct line of sight to any work buildings. How feasible would it be for me to tap into my work's WIFI from home given the right equipment, and at what cost?
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Nov 23, 2016 03:49
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Smashing Link posted:I work about half a mile from my house. Work is a large academic institution with lots of wifi coverage and both "free" (AT&T) and institutional (eduroam) networks. My neighborhood is full of trees and I don't have direct line of sight to any work buildings. How feasible would it be for me to tap into my work's WIFI from home given the right equipment, and at what cost? Well, how much does a can of Pringles cost in your neck?
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Nov 23, 2016 04:08
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Smashing Link posted:I work about half a mile from my house. Work is a large academic institution with lots of wifi coverage and both "free" (AT&T) and institutional (eduroam) networks. My neighborhood is full of trees and I don't have direct line of sight to any work buildings. How feasible would it be for me to tap into my work's WIFI from home given the right equipment, and at what cost? Couple of these, line of sight, on some antenna poles. Done. With no line of sight.. who knows. https://www.amazon.com/MikroTik-RouterBoard-5NDR2-802-11a-16dBi/dp/B00BTKPTNI/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1479918073&sr=8-22&keywords=mikrotik
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Nov 23, 2016 17:21
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