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Replaced the water pump on the P71, because it wasn't the alternator bearings making all that noise. I would have known this before I bought the tool to remove the special snowflake overrunning clutch-equipped alternator pulley (I was just going to replace the bearings, because $200 200A alternator) if I had taken the time to pull the belt and spin everything by hand FIRST. Fortunately the tool was only $25. Also replaced the belt while I was in there, because it was starting to look crack-y. Yesterday, I replace the EGR assembly because the DFPE was bad, and it's integrated. That seems to have done the trick, since all monitors except the catalyst monitor show ready, and no MIL. I'll go get it inspected Saturday morning, so I can finally get it registered on Monday (TX - unified sticker now.) Then my new cop car will be all legal! 
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Apr 10, 2015 20:10
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Finally got the winter tyres replaced with some Dunlop Sport Bluresponse's. Stupid name, excellent tyre so far. Also discovered my front left alignment was way out and that's probably what was lunching the outside edge, not over-exuberance on roundabouts like I thought. *E* I'm so happy to not have horrid squishy tyres on there anymore. 
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Apr 11, 2015 20:29
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Fixed a broken door switch that tells the computer the door is closed on my moms Mercedes C230. Also checked her front tires and found they were bald on the inside edge.
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Apr 11, 2015 21:55
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Finally felt well enough to attempt to swap my winter wheels/tires out with my summer wheels/tires. Managed to do it but holy poo poo am I still drained from being sick for a week with the flu/plague/ebola/whatever. I was sweating (in a ~65*F garage) before I even got the jack under the car and soaked by the time I finished. New summer tires are BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 which are probably hilarious overkill for a Honda Fit but they were cheap ($70 each I think?) and are the highest rated summer tires on TireRack in that size. Haven't driven enough to have an opinion of them other than that they are obviously better than the crappy all seasons that were on there before. I almost want to start a YouTube channel "Will it fit in the Fit?" about all the poo poo I buy and stuff in the back of the Fit but I think it would get boring when the answer is just 'yes, of course' every single time. Today it was a lawn mower and a shopping cart load of other supplies. 
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Apr 12, 2015 00:31
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Galler posted:"Will it fit in the Fit?" AI should do something similar for all the cool dudes (*flicks cigarette*) who daily 2-seater sports cars. Viper, 928, Lambo, probably others.
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Apr 12, 2015 00:51
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I inspected my 98 Silverado's front end today after dealing with some sloppy steering and front end clunking. The truck has 213k miles on it. As a result in the mail is inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings, idler arm, pitman arm, idler arm bracket, wheel bearings, rancho s5000 shocks, and a new steering gear. I'm probably forgetting some stuff off hand, but that's the gist of it. e. and this made me do the math on a SAS, which is still not cost effective since this isn't a wheeler and I'm not looking to run bigger tires.
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Apr 12, 2015 06:42
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Darchangel posted:Yesterday, I replace the EGR assembly because the DFPE was bad, and it's integrated. That seems to have done the trick, since all monitors except the catalyst monitor show ready, and no MIL. I'll go get it inspected Saturday morning, so I can finally get it registered on Monday (TX - unified sticker now.) The EGR, evap, and catalyst tests take the longest to perform on everything I've owned. My car still hasn't completed the evap test, even though it's been 3 months since the ECU was reset.  It has a stored, but inactive, thermostat code - I may try clearing it and see if it comes back, but it's the only not-ready I have, so it'd pass regardless.Since I have to get my inspection done before I can renew my registration anyway, I'm half tempted to do it now - while it has reasonably new tires on it, and while it's not bitching about the thermostat. My registration and inspection are both due in December(so by law I have to get an inspection prior to renewing my registration), but since they don't differentiate between them anymore, and I always renew months early... Oh. Mom got hers inspected. They failed it right off the bat, because they "couldn't communicate with the ECU". Then another inspector came by and mentioned "you need to plug it in all the way, dipshit". Immediately passed, but since they didn't cancel out the first test, it now has an emissions failure on its car history report. Anyone who actually looks at it will see that both inspections were done the same day, with the same odometer reading, but it's still something some jackass could use to browbeat her whenever she goes to sell it.
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Apr 12, 2015 07:25
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Ramsus posted:I inspected my 98 Silverado's front end today after dealing with some sloppy steering and front end clunking. The truck has 213k miles on it. I do this at work on plows trucks of that era. I literally just replaced all of that on a two door 97 Tahoe. It was a 7.8 on the sockington scale. I feel for your pain if you have to do this on a rusty truck. I imagine you will need lots of beer to make this suck a lot less. In my car work today I have to order all new rear end seals for my WJ. Because the scumbag who "replaced" them a year ago obviously hosed up or didn't clean up his mess cause my inside of my rotors are grease city.
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Apr 12, 2015 13:57
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Installed a quicker steering rack, new tie rods and replaced my PS reservoir  Reinstalled my scratched up sideskirt. Decided I don't yet care about getting it repainted after going off track.  Replaced my 75mm studs with 95mm. Apex sent me 19 allen head studs and one bullet nose   500# spring on driver's side. Turns out I had installed the wrong spring last year, 450# looks almost identical to 500#.  And then just cried because the first event is in 3 weeks and there is easily 2ft of snow all the way to the fence where I have to get the car through. 
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Apr 12, 2015 17:15
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Fixed a hole in the beam that the the torsion bar beam is attached to. Re-installed GTV exhaust with better mountings and less holes. Removed the "tuning" exhaust tips installed by the PO and welded-in replacements. OLD:  NEW:   I also made a support for the intake. Still need to find a correct bolt for it. 
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Apr 12, 2015 17:26
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Replaced this loving oval office of a cmc, without replacing the factory hardline. Can you see it? I will see it in my bad dreams for years...
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Apr 12, 2015 17:39
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Shot (well, brushed) the passenger seat bolts with PB Blaster last night and today I could finally pull out the seat to reach my '95 Nissan truck's ECU. Diagnostic ran nothing but "55" (No Malfunctions). Huzzah! Of course, while the seat was out, I vac'd and cleaned the spots I couldn't reach before. Babby's first PB Blaster experience and I see the world differently now. Started to pull the passenger side interior door panel to see what clips to order and if the plastic lock rod holder behind the lock cylinder is the only inner damage from the attempted break-in, but the manual window handle cock blocked me, so I'm going to drop by somewhere and let someone else do it in probably 5 minutes. I know how the handle is attached, but I couldn't press the panel in far enough to see the u-shaped piece. The door panel and parts are in great shape and I don't want to mongo it up without the right tools. Got some Mother's clay, Maguire's soap & polishes, and grit guards incoming via Amazon tomorrow. I hope that next weekend's weather lets me come out to Last weekend my landlord heard my requisite Nissan lifter noise (VG30E w/70K miles) and offered to take a look at it in his garage sometime. Dunno when that'll happen, but I can't wait to see the look on his face if it's manifold bolts. Ooh-ooh... Also I ordered new sunvisors on eBay last night. My passenger one broke irreparably at the mount and I found a pair from Mexico for about  more (after shipping) than one alone elsewhere.
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Apr 12, 2015 19:05
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Figured out why it turned right better than left  : The rear end is a trailing arm so can't be adjusted easily without some extreme percussive maintenance, but at least the front wheels are pointing roughly the right direction now.
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Apr 12, 2015 21:15
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PaintVagrant posted:Replaced this loving oval office of a cmc, without replacing the factory hardline. Can you see it? I will see it in my bad dreams for years... False alarm, missed an o ring that the new cmc didn't come with, when bleeding it started pissing brake fluid everywhere. Tore the whole thing down, rebuilt the cmc properly reinstalled it. It shifts pretty nice now 
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Apr 12, 2015 23:54
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I've been working on a '62 Lotus Seven S2 all winter and finally determined it was ready for the owner to pick up today. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42zp8Q3aNeg Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Apr 21, 2015 |
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Apr 13, 2015 00:24
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Pierced Bronson posted:Seven stuff Wow, they sure mounted the engines right up in the nose- most of the replicas I've seen put it at least 8" aft of that position. I can't hate the cam bearing fix as much as I want to though- if they had taken a little material off the edge of each shell to get rid of the excess crush it would have left that journal alone and (probably) been fine. Junkyard fresh stock stereo went into the Lexus today, luckily my PO did it right and used a good adapter harness that jumps the line level outs on the aftermarket deck to the line level input of the factory amp, so unfucking it was a simple matter of removing the patch harness and dropping the factory poo poo back in. And goddamn, with the right headunit in there it is by far the best sounding car stereo I've ever heard. It puts half my home hifi gear to shame. Though the stock changer sucks rear end (or is on its last legs), I can make it skip with a good hearty fart and it takes a good half minute to switch discs.
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Apr 13, 2015 05:01
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Tommychu posted:Wow, they sure mounted the engines right up in the nose- It's a bit of an illusion from shadows and the angle of the shot making the nosepiece look short, but really only the timing components and water pump are under it. The engine does sit squarely behind the front axle. Also the previous mechanic had sanded the edges of the bearing shells a bit and the car did make it from Texas to Connecticut in that condition, but I mean, come on, a good used cam was only $100. Having someone lathe off the .020" probably cost half that. Just do poo poo right ffs. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Apr 13, 2015 |
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Apr 13, 2015 12:16
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Sevens are sweet. Every time I ride in one I can't decide whether to be scared for my life, overjoyed at the purity of the joy it conveys, or quickly pulling down my helmet visor to keep tire marbles out of my eyes.
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Apr 13, 2015 15:41
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Got it dirty as gently caress at the RallyX season opener. It had been pouring rain the past 2 days so it was muddy as gently caress, and it was deep, nasty mud and the course in general was just in brutal shape. LOTS of de-beaded tires (we lost one), lots of torn off air dams, mud guards, exhaust hangers, bumper covers, etc., and several tows from the sweeper truck. Ground clearance and AWD were the champions of the day, of which we had neither. At least we had M+S tires.  Okay, technically not my ride but I did my fair share of flogging it. Me in the first, my buddy and owner in the second. Last season we ran an N/A 240 Wagon, this season we've got a 740 Turbo Sedan. And our friend who brought out his Forester XT and put down some solid times. He had ground clearance and AWD, and M+S tires. This is what a Subaru should look like, with its satisfied owner:  Fun. As. Hell. Go RallyX, just do it.
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Apr 13, 2015 18:13
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Tire died on the wife's Mini today. Shopping around for tires. 175/65/15. Looking at $500 out the door for Pilot Sports from Costco. Anyone have good experience with them? I deal with SoCal desert for all but a few weeks of the year where I drive up to Oregon. Think summer tire year round but 8 days of rain. No snow/ice driving at all. Any suggestions?
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Apr 14, 2015 05:57
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New headlight/horn/directionals/wipers multifunction stalk unit on the Justy, now the low beams work, the horn works, and the directionals stay on and off when they are supposed to. Blasted the Forester's throttle body out with some cleaner and it runs better, but not 100% and the CEL hasn't gone off yet so I'm reasonably certain I need to install the O2 sensor I bought.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:30
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Crossed over 100K miles 
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Apr 14, 2015 17:47
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Don't that, your car has been reliable and carried you around the world 4 times! Took it to a shop yesterday for the first time in ages.  I can't do flat repairs in my garage
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Apr 14, 2015 19:19
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 I got it out of storage. ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 15, 2015 17:58
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Got those tires mounted today for just over 100bux, this poo poo is expensive.  I got a nice suprise after the change. The steering wheel doesnt oscillate back and forth anymore, and the car doesn't pull to the right anymore either. I thought that was a suspension problem, but I guess tires can cause that too. It feels so much better to drive without it doing that those two things all the time. 
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Apr 15, 2015 18:03
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SouthsideSaint posted:I do this at work on plows trucks of that era. I literally just replaced all of that on a two door 97 Tahoe. It was a 7.8 on the sockington scale. I feel for your pain if you have to do this on a rusty truck. I imagine you will need lots of beer to make this suck a lot less. Naw, rust isn't bad here in Oregon. It's pretty wet here, but we don't salt the roads. Just swapped out the rear shocks today. Bolts came out real easy. Just waiting on the wheel bearings to arrive so I can do everything in the front end at once.
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Apr 16, 2015 09:38
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Bought track wheel set #3
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Apr 17, 2015 01:58
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 The top brake caliper bolt (allen) was stripped and wouldn't budge. So I had to use a box cutter and cut away the rubber boot that was around it. Then I filed two sides relatively flat so that I could tighten vice grips over it. Then I slipped a box end wrench over the vice grips for extra leverage. That did the trick and I was finally able to get it out.
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Apr 18, 2015 04:09
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 Pulled those out of the avalanche, they appear to be the OEM plugs. My truck has ~150k miles on it. I am bad at maintaining vehicles. Also, I found out that an exacto knife with a square blade is perfect for sliding in between the heatshield and the spark plug allowing you to slice up the boot and pull out the chunks so it will all finally slide off. Because it will not want to come off after 150k miles. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 19, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 23:30
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I swapped out my worn-out bench seat in my old man Buick Century wagon for some buckets and a console from a Celebrity Eurosport VR I found at a yard. (Click for bigger.)  
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Apr 19, 2015 02:27
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^^ Those buckets look good but I miss bench seats. Bought some leather seats for my mustang during the winter and went to install them today. Front 2 bolts came out easily on each side. Tried the back bolts and snapped a head on each side.
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Apr 19, 2015 21:24
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Broke not only the original brake pad wear sensor, but the replacement part was incorrect and the only one in town. So gently caress it, crimped the brake pad sensor wire together so the dash light doesn't stay on, and take care of it another day. There's a jack stand under there as well ya worry wort. 
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Apr 19, 2015 23:24
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^ works for all other wires. Should work for yours. I changed the DRL on my WJ. Thank god that little 7mm long rusty bolt came loose. After it came out I anti-seized the poo poo out of it and wire brushed all the corrosion off.
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Apr 20, 2015 00:51
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Found out today that Pick n Pull refuses to sell alloy wheels and instead ships them all direct to a metal recycler. A Pulsar finally came in with it's original wheels still on it, and they wont even let me buy them  Saw them behind a locked gate propped neatly against a wall. They looked in great condition too  At least they tossed the centre caps in the car, and I managed to get the glovebox and a good few other parts from the car. Closest wheels car-part shows is nearly 500 miles north of here, so, I'm probably making a road trip to Oregon soon. I did however get to do a roadtrip with the only other Pulsar owner I know of to the yard, so, at least the day wasn't completely wasted.  
PhoenixWing fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 05:26
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Swapped the non stock 42lbs injectors for original 30s. Though ran into a snag with the turbo t-bird injector harness vs the SVO currently in the car...sigh going to take some surgery there. Pulled 85% of the dash out because all my harness are soldered together. New dash harness should show up this week. Think its got a trans leak now though
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Apr 20, 2015 16:37
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Ramsus posted:
Is it a VW by any chance? Both of mine had the same thing, apparently that little boot is supposed to be packed with grease to stop the bolt head getting too corroded but it doesn't work for poo poo.
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Apr 20, 2015 20:30
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PhoenixWing posted:Found out today that Pick n Pull refuses to sell alloy wheels and instead ships them all direct to a metal recycler. A Pulsar finally came in with it's original wheels still on it, and they wont even let me buy them I adore that you both have the sweet big canopies. My first car was an NX with a busted 5th gear. Loved that car to death. I installed awesome red lugnuts on my Micra, although that's $30 I could have spent on fixing the curb rash...
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Apr 20, 2015 20:40
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Put a new air filter in the 08 Patriot. Butt dyno is telling me the motor has much more smoother power curve than before. Not pictured I also changed the plugs and air filter on my wife's 08 Mazda 3 2.0. The plugs were factory original FoMoCo with 100K miles. Also discovered that she was 1.5 quarts low on oil...
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Apr 20, 2015 21:07
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On my '04 WRX wagon: Added five new ground points to the ground strap on the battery. Holy poo poo the stock Subaru setup was awful; this immediately made my interior lights stop dimming heavily at low rpm, made the power steering more effective while stopped, and smoothed the idle out a bit. Silly, silly difference for the cost of a bit of wire and some weatherproof butt terminals. Also changed the oil and installed a Fumoto drain valve, which I'm looking forward to using next time. Also also swapped the intake filter just because. Next up: New tranny mount, cross member bushings, shift linkage, and shift bushings. Also probably tinted windows by summer.
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Apr 21, 2015 01:04
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Left Ventricle posted:I swapped out my worn-out bench seat in my old man Buick Century wagon for some buckets and a console from a Celebrity Eurosport VR I found at a yard. (Click for bigger.) Those look noice! PhoenixWing posted:Found out today that Pick n Pull refuses to sell alloy wheels and instead ships them all direct to a metal recycler. A Pulsar finally came in with it's original wheels still on it, and they wont even let me buy them I hate it when yards do that. I know it makes them more money, but... I can't find a transmission or carburetor (!) in my favorite yard at all, and you have to go find the aluminum wheels pile and sort through it. Same with driveshafts and fuel pumps (I'm looking for an EFI fuel pump assembly to add to a non-EFI tank.) P71 Crown Vic passed inspection no problem on Saturday, got reg and plates Monday morning. All mine, and all legal! Replaced the missing "Police Interceptor" badge on Sunday:  Need to flush and fill all the fluids, just to be safe.
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Apr 21, 2015 19:02
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