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The one downside to a higher clamp force pressure plate is that it put added load on the thrust bearing and clutch mechanism. The EVOX for example has a plastic clutch master cylinder that has a tendency to explode when you upgrade the clutch. As far as pedal feel goes, a wrx is my standard. so when I get in a miata or s2k or whatever I think it's weird how light the clutch is. So it's really a relative thing imo. Even the ACT "Xtreme" pressure plate in an STI doesn't seem that bad to me.
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May 1, 2012 05:47
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| # ? May 27, 2024 04:51 |
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Lazor posted:Took your advice and went to Yimisport, good bunch of guys. I just got the car back today after just over one month and just under $4k and now get to break in a 4th engine. Got the old pistons cleaned up, turns out there were cracks in two of them. #2 http://i48.tinypic.com/2z7fypk.jpg #4 http://i46.tinypic.com/28hosjk.jpg what they're supposed to look like for reference http://i48.tinypic.com/x6lwl5.jpg Looks like I now have 4 awesome paperweights.
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May 1, 2012 06:02
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My '02 is heavier than my '11 (enough that at first I was having trouble going between cars) but both are still some of the heaviest clutches I've ever driven.
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May 1, 2012 06:13
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I had a loaner 09 or so base Impreza wagon. It was a very smooth easy to drive clutch. The only other stick Subaru I've driven was an 03 WRX which was decently heavy.
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May 1, 2012 11:29
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I had two codes pop up this week in the Legacy. I replaced the cat about 3k ago. Codes are P0456 and P0130. It seems like maybe an O2 sensor? What's the best way to test for that? I have Torque for my phone, and it seems like I can get a shitload of data, but I really have no idea what I'm looking for here. Hooray for learning experiences!
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May 1, 2012 13:04
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I guess this is as good a place as any... After my thread here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3480740&pagenumber=1 I'm the proud owner of a 2002 Impreza TS (wagon). It needs some work, and I feel that one of the most pressing is the fact that the rear left spring is broken at the top. The car has 127XXX Km (~78k miles), and I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to do struts & springs all around the car or not. I.e, could I leave the stock struts and just put new springs on all around, or does everything have to be replaced all at once? I've read a few pages back in this thread, and see that Koni are having a sale until the end of May (?). From Sockingtons' thread (and here), I see he went the route of fitting Konis to his stock assemblies. I'd like to do some autocrossing with my car, and don't mind building it up slowly, starting with the suspension as that needs to be done anyway. If I go this route, what (else) do I need to consider?
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May 1, 2012 19:50
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I've got a 2000 Subaru Outback Wagon (5-speed, 4 cylinder, ~150k miles) that makes a rubbing/whining noise when slowly accelerating from a stop - that maybe lasts for a second each time and sounds to me as if its coming from the front passenger side wheel/tire. This is something that I heard once or twice on a long road-trip a few weeks ago - that I now hear every-time I accelerate from a stop. I took that wheel off but my un-trained eyes didn't spot anything obviously rubbing/broken - any hints or typical problems that occur around this time?
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May 1, 2012 20:17
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Captain McAllister posted:I've read a few pages back in this thread, and see that Koni are having a sale until the end of May (?). From Sockingtons' thread (and here), I see he went the route of fitting Konis to his stock assemblies. I'd like to do some autocrossing with my car, and don't mind building it up slowly, starting with the suspension as that needs to be done anyway. If I go this route, what (else) do I need to consider? Track down some used STi springs, new strut mounts, dust boots and bump stops. That way, you won't need to screw with your struts after getting the inserts done. If you're not good with a grinder, cut the struts at the gold coloured lock ring and suck the struts in with some 55mm+ long M12x1.50 bolts and some some washers.
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May 1, 2012 20:25
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Captain McAllister posted:I've read a few pages back in this thread, and see that Koni are having a sale until the end of May (?). From Sockingtons' thread (and here), I see he went the route of fitting Konis to his stock assemblies. I'd like to do some autocrossing with my car, and don't mind building it up slowly, starting with the suspension as that needs to be done anyway. If I go this route, what (else) do I need to consider? Even if you're not setting out to be competitive you'll have more fun/excuses if your car is actually classed well.  Floppy/loose stock suspension and a car that doesn't react quickly is also a really good learning tool.
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May 1, 2012 20:27
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Got my Koni inserts installed and a proper alignment: Loving how much the ride has firmed up. Feels like a new car. Also got the slide pins cleaned and lubricated, the butt puckering rotation under braking at freeway speeds seems to have gone away.
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May 2, 2012 06:25
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roadhead posted:I've got a 2000 Subaru Outback Wagon (5-speed, 4 cylinder, ~150k miles) that makes a rubbing/whining noise when slowly accelerating from a stop - that maybe lasts for a second each time and sounds to me as if its coming from the front passenger side wheel/tire. Just got off the phone with the mechanic and he is telling me its the Expansion valve in the A/C system - so not nearly as scary as I was imagining but still necessary to have fixed ASAP when you live in Texas.
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May 2, 2012 15:48
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I have a catless uppipe and turbo back to install, and I would like to do the stage 2 open source tune. I finally hooked up my cable and logged some numbers. I found that the injector duty cycle is currently 90%, and boost drops off to 9 psi above 6000 rpm. To me, there isn't much duty cycle left to add power. What fuel upgrades are recommended? I know blaise did the same when he was running the stock turbo, I think he did a walbro 255 and some other injectors, maybe sti? Hopefully there is a how-to on changing injector sizes in the tune.
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May 2, 2012 20:22
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The dark blue top feeds on the 07+ wrx/sti flow more and along with a walbro would work good. I don't know much about injector scaling/latency tuning but cobb does have off the shelf maps for larger injectors. Also, if anyone with an 04-07 sti is looking to get a rear swaybar, I'll be getting an unused whiteline 22mm adjustable back that I can let go for cheap. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:40 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 20:34
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My power steering pump failed today. I've never heard of anybody having to replace one at 75k before. I think the power I'm putting down now is forcing some early deaths on all my old rusty parts.
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May 2, 2012 20:50
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How disgusting was your power steering fluid? I pulled something that looked like chocolate pudding out of my power steering reservoir and something that looked like a dirty swimming pool full of cigarette ashes out of my master cylinder reservoir in my '97. If it weren't for my power steering belt missing like half of its teeth I'd imagine it would be a lot worse. 
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May 2, 2012 20:57
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I don't think there was much left by the time I pulled into the dealership, it was pouring out all over the place and smelled like burnt death. I paid to have the fluid drained and refreshed in my 60k service, whether the dealer actually did it or not, I dunno. Pretty pissed off about the whole thing to be honest, but what are you going to do. I guess I'm a bit lucky, the car was ticking all day today and starting and stopping very rough, I thought it might have been rod knock or some type of catastrophic failure. A power steering pump I can deal with.
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May 2, 2012 22:33
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So I posted a page back about hitting 1.2 bar on the highway in a stock STi at high altitude. Well, it turns out thats only in fifth gear. Fourth is 1.05, third is 0.9, second is 0.8 and first is like 0.75 bar. This is all since moving to Denver. When I was in Washington at sea level it was slightly above 1.0 bar every gear every time. I'm also hearing something when shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 while boosting. Any insight? Going to dealership tomorrow morning...
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May 3, 2012 00:29
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Unamerican boost gauges 
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May 3, 2012 01:26
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Shouldn't your target boost be 1.15bar? I'm told that your boost pressure tends to drop at high altitude, and having your your boost scale upward with each gear is the same as what my 2011 wrx does with the target being met in 3rd gear, and it apparently is working perfectly. Of course I have little to no idea what I'm doing though, and I could be hilariously wrong.
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May 3, 2012 02:22
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jamal posted:The one downside to a higher clamp force pressure plate is that it put added load on the thrust bearing and clutch mechanism. The EVOX for example has a plastic clutch master cylinder that has a tendency to explode when you upgrade the clutch. I know someone with an Evo X that blew up two of them at the track within like 1.5 years of owning the car for this exact reason.
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May 3, 2012 02:29
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Danger Doug posted:Shouldn't your target boost be 1.15bar? I'm told that your boost pressure tends to drop at high altitude, and having your your boost scale upward with each gear is the same as what my 2011 wrx does with the target being met in 3rd gear, and it apparently is working perfectly. The ECU has a table that corrects for atmospheric pressure (read altitude) so the boost target should always be correct.
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May 3, 2012 02:33
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Has anyone put together a visual boost leak testing howto for the 08+ WRX yet? I've only seen them for the STI or older gen WRX. I've got the leak tester and compressor ready to go.
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May 3, 2012 02:39
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blargle posted:Has anyone put together a visual boost leak testing howto for the 08+ WRX yet? I've only seen them for the STI or older gen WRX. I've got the leak tester and compressor ready to go.
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May 3, 2012 02:42
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Are you sure? The layout is completely different, I'm not sure where to cap things off.
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May 3, 2012 02:48
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blargle posted:Are you sure? The layout is completely different, I'm not sure where to cap things off.
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May 3, 2012 03:00
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jamal posted:The EVOX for example has a plastic clutch master cylinder that has a tendency to explode when you upgrade the clutch. Lord Gaga posted:I know someone with an Evo X that blew up two of them at the track within like 1.5 years of owning the car for this exact reason. That's why I got an MR.  Also I don't plan on tracking it. Or modding it to the point of exploding things. That's what my Talon is for.
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May 3, 2012 03:31
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Got my stock suspension back on as my KW's take a ride to Sanger for a (free!) rebuild. Holy crap, what a boat. I'm autocrossing this weekend. Having massive body roll but amazing grip (thanks to a front LSD) is, uhm, interesting. It is a snap-oversteer monster.
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May 3, 2012 06:52
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nm posted:Got my stock suspension back on as my KW's take a ride to Sanger for a (free!) rebuild. super jdm time attack diff. how's the car running?
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May 3, 2012 07:15
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jamal posted:super jdm time attack diff. I have a hose leaking oil under the IC, but that will get replaced when I get my shocks back. Also I may have a pinhole leak in my newish Koyo radiator. The motor and transmission are holding up though. nm fucked around with this message at 07:27 on May 3, 2012 |
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May 3, 2012 07:24
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nm posted:Not bad. Direct the pinhole leak so it hits your intercooler. Free water spray!
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May 3, 2012 13:40
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Amandyke posted:The ECU has a table that corrects for atmospheric pressure (read altitude) so the boost target should always be correct. So I guess my initial thoughts were that I would have a higher gauge pressure indicated if the motor is operating at the same absolute pressure as at sea level but the atmospheric pressure is lower. This also makes sense for why I see a weaker vacuum at idle. I expected longer spool times as well. However now that I see that boost corresponds to gear, I'm not sure wtf is up.
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May 3, 2012 15:30
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Doesn't the gauge need to be adjusted for elevation, though?
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May 3, 2012 15:32
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Doesn't the gauge need to be adjusted for elevation, though? It shouldn't need to be. Pressure is pressure, that's one of the turbo motor's greatest assets is that by and large it is unaffected by elevation as the turbo can compensate for the elevation change with more boost. Just keep that drat waste gate closed!
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May 3, 2012 15:38
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Apparantly the car is all good. The guy hooked up the Subaru select monitor or whatever and put it through the paces. Then he did it with another stock motor STi and they are are within 0.1 psi of each other. Also, the head tech has a couple race prepped subarus and worked with trey(?) Cobb on the AccessPORT. He said he thinks the Cobb ots stage 1 tune is much safer and he wouldn't be bothered by it being installed for warranty of, say, kicked ringlands as long as I was honest about it. He even gave me a card for his favorite local tuner. Seems pretty sweet.
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May 3, 2012 18:19
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I doubted the difference of a stage one tune until I got a tactrix cable for deleting the air pump cels on my 06 wrx. It's awesome and I think it's better for the engine as well.
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May 3, 2012 22:39
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Then you get bored and go stage 2 and it's amazing. Then you get bored and throw a bigger turbo in it and it's amazing. Then poo poo starts to break but you still want to throw a bigger turbo in it to feel amazing again. I'm at this part.
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May 3, 2012 22:42
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kylej posted:Then poo poo starts to break but you still want to throw a bigger turbo in it to feel amazing again. I'm at this part.
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May 3, 2012 23:30
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Throw some suspension at it. I have new struts, springs and sways on it. I also would like to take time out to say I might be the only person here to have a bad Whiteline experience. Their rear adj swaybar wouldn't fit on the middle setting with an SPT catback, I had to put it all the way back on the "loosest" adjustment to clear the exhaust. Pretty lame.
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May 4, 2012 00:11
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What if the exhaust wasn't quite perfect?
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May 4, 2012 00:17
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Could be the case, although there were no fitment issues when installing the catback or when mating it with a new downpipe. The SPT is one of the most conservatively sized exhausts, too. Not a big deal either way.
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May 4, 2012 00:57
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