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Chinatown posted:Nice car, but its still crazy how big the 3-series has become. Wild, according to wikipedia the F30 is within 10mm of the dimensions of my E39 5 series. Someone a while back posted a picture comparing the 1 series vs a 2 door E46, which are very similar in size.
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Mar 25, 2012 02:32
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After I swapped diffs I'm getting a knocking from right rear on hard right turns. It doesn't appear to affect the suspension or handling at all. At first I thought it was a starbar I keep in the spare tire well, but it wasn't that. I had the car in the air and hit everything with a 5lb rubber mallet; control arm, trailing arm, axle shaft, diff and carrier, shock and spring assemblies. Subframe mounts look fine, sheetmetal is good. Everything is solid. I'm putting it back in the air tomorrow and pulling the wheel to have a better look but I don't understand what the noise could be. I'm pretty sure it's not pad knockback because I've dealt with the issue before in the rear and handled it and I know what the sound is like and it's not this. Also per the AC thread I now have ice cold air in my E36 it is glorius. The condenser barely gets warm now instead of boiling hot before and I'm getting super cold vent temps. I got 0f with a laser thermometer which is clearly not realistic but it's cold enough to get visible condensation on the vents. Also saw this puppy. My buddies coworker bought it. Only one in Kentucky that I'm aware of. 
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Mar 25, 2012 03:20
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Chinatown posted:Nice car, but its still crazy how big the 3-series has become. Wheel base E39: 111.4" F30: 110.6" Length E39: 188" F30: 182" Yep, it is a big car. Sure that's comparing apples to oranges, but still big. The front end is growing on me. I am curious to see what the M cars will be like. Edit: Crap! beaten, but I will leave the stats up
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Mar 25, 2012 03:50
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It's less than 2 inches longer than the outgoing e90.
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Mar 25, 2012 04:06
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ppp posted:It's less than 2 inches longer than the outgoing e90. Or ~5" longer than a Civic sedan
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Mar 25, 2012 04:50
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LifelongFan posted:Pulled the trigger on it. F30 328i sedan, sport package. It's loving awesome. Nice. That color silver is so much better on the F30 than the darker silver that the dealers got a ton of in the initial allocations.
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Mar 25, 2012 04:56
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destructo posted:The F30 front end is so angry -- I love it. BMW America actually did research which showed that people tend to prefer angrier-looking front ends on cars. Shows why cars these days tend to look like mean, grumpy motherfuckers.
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Mar 25, 2012 05:04
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Last December, I bought a 2007 Z4 Coupe from a dealership here in Minneapolis. I love the car and have been having great fun driving it. Yesterday morning, I noticed that the passenger headlight had condensation in it. After some Googling, I figured this was caused by the seal breaking or being poorly applied. I found some instructions for how to remove the headlight assembly, grabbed a friend, and got to work. After popping the hood, we found that the passenger light assembly had no sealant at all, unlike the driver headlight where it was clearly visible. This was the first sign that something was wrong. Next, while removing the front bumper, we found that where we expected to find seven bolts, we found only one. This was the next sign. We pop the bumper off and find:  Oh no! Clearly the PO struck a lamp post or something. I wasn't informed of this at all during the purchase, either on CARFAX or from the dealer. That miffed me a little bit, but since it seems purely cosmetic, the damage itself didn't make me too angry. But what does anger me is the crap repair job. Notice how the undercarriage trim hangs on the right side. That's due to yet another missing bolt. The headlight was obviously replaced, but they never sealed it to keep moisture out, causing my problem in the first place. For some reason, the replacement headlight had to be modified with hard, black, moldable plastic to make it fit, clearly a bit of a hack job. The bumper itself wasn't replaced. It looks fine from the outside, but the back side has good amounts of broken and/or missing plastic. We placed ribbon sealer around most of the headlight, leaving a bit unsealed that we can easily access later to finish the job once it's dried out. Everything went back together smoothly, and the car is back to looking good. I'm mostly posting here because it was a surprise I felt like sharing. But I would be interested to hear if anyone has thoughts about the fact that I wasn't told about this at purchase time. Is it just a "buyer beware" situation, and I've learned my lesson to be more careful? Or should I bring this up with the dealer and see what they have to say? Any thoughts on the quality of the repair job, and anything else they might have missed that I should check out?
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Mar 25, 2012 14:11
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You probably should sue that dealer.
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Mar 25, 2012 14:18
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Wamsutta posted:You probably should sue that dealer. I'm already talking to seven lawyers in five states E: Wait, were you serious? ColdPie fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Mar 25, 2012 |
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Mar 25, 2012 14:28
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Have you guys read the Motor Trend comparo featuring the F30? It wins, and by an enormous margin according to them. They claim there was never a chance for the seven other cars. I'll just say that if the lower end models are as fantastic as people say, I can't wait for the M3. ColdPie posted:I'm mostly posting here because it was a surprise I felt like sharing. But I would be interested to hear if anyone has thoughts about the fact that I wasn't told about this at purchase time. Is it just a "buyer beware" situation, and I've learned my lesson to be more careful? Or should I bring this up with the dealer and see what they have to say? Any thoughts on the quality of the repair job, and anything else they might have missed that I should check out? Looks to me like they actively tried to hide the damage, which I'm pretty sure is hugely illegal. Sue them not only for repairs, but also for loss of value and the labor you have so far put into it. I could be wrong but that looks like some pretty significant samage. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Mar 25, 2012 |
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Mar 25, 2012 14:44
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Since the OP says Minis can play too - I'm looking at purchasing an R56 - we drove a few this week and had an absolute blast. Is there anything in particular to look out for when shopping around? How do they last beyond 100,000 kms? Trying to decide between private sales or Mini-Next pre-owned as well - any reconciliations? I've read that the R50 can have a lot of problems pre-07, is there any merit to that?
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Mar 25, 2012 16:16
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So after fixing up everything and then taking it to BMW to get radio functions to work they said that my Dice iPod adapter was shorting stuff out. I have a 2002 M3 with the HK system. Is there an alternative to Dice adapters out there for AUX / iPod hookups? (Aux is much appreciated since I have an Android.)
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Mar 25, 2012 23:44
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VibrioCholera posted:So after fixing up everything and then taking it to BMW to get radio functions to work they said that my Dice iPod adapter was shorting stuff out. The factory AUX input is like $25, but you'd probably have to add on a half hour labor for them to reprogram the car to recognize it.
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Mar 26, 2012 01:27
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wallaka posted:The factory AUX input is like $25, but you'd probably have to add on a half hour labor for them to reprogram the car to recognize it. I've got it on my ZHP and it's great as long as you are fine with picking up your phone/mp3 player to swap songs. With a retractable 3.5mm cable (http://i.imgur.com/nOA0R.jpg) it hides perfectly in the little compartment when you're not using it.
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Mar 26, 2012 01:58
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I've got an E30 that seems to be torque steering. At high speed, when you apply throttle, the car veers right. When you let off, it veers left. It's somewhat scary, and was significantly worse when I was having some dynamic camber/toe issues from the rear trailing arm bolts working loose. That has since been fixed, and the alignment has stayed in place without issue. Everything else in the front suspension seems to be tight and nothing is out of place. The only conclusion I can think of is that the rear subframe bushings are bad, which is a pain in the rear end. When I get in the car, I can kind of hear a squeak from the rear seat area, which is where the bolts are located for the subframe. God damnit.
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Mar 26, 2012 18:07
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Lightbulb Out posted:I've got an E30 that seems to be torque steering. At high speed, when you apply throttle, the car veers right. When you let off, it veers left. It's somewhat scary, and was significantly worse when I was having some dynamic camber/toe issues from the rear trailing arm bolts working loose. That has since been fixed, and the alignment has stayed in place without issue. Mine does that too but I've got fresh subframe and trailing arm bushings, along with new control arms etc up front. I think I've got a blown front shock or two.
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Mar 26, 2012 18:23
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Woops http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-17514172 BMW recalls 1.3 million cars
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Mar 26, 2012 18:59
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wallaka posted:The factory AUX input is like $25, but you'd probably have to add on a half hour labor for them to reprogram the car to recognize it. Sweet! I'd consider throwing the Dice back on but literally the radio controls so many goofy functions in the car I don't want to have to take the car back to fix it.
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Mar 26, 2012 19:03
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Dyscrasia posted:Mine does that too but I've got fresh subframe and trailing arm bushings, along with new control arms etc up front. I think I've got a blown front shock or two. I've got all good shocks, my trailing arm bushings are tack welded in their aligned spot, so I know it's not that(before it would have dynamic toe/camber on one wheel because the bushings would lose their alignment). I had the rear subframe bushings replaced when the suspension was redone, but I think its broken again. That or the diff bushing?? This car gets autocrossed pretty hard, and I recently installed poly trans/motor mounts because heavy launches would break them with my star specs.. Next thing in the chain I guess
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Mar 26, 2012 19:58
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My E60 is having more issues: -There's an oil leak somewhere - my shop says there's a sensor mounted to the oil pan that's loose so they need to open the bottom & replace the sensor. I dunno why on earth the designers would put a thru-hole for mounting a sensor you'd need to remove the pan to replace anyway. Seems really stupid afaik. They also want $400, incld oil change. -My passenger seat occupancy sensor died - has anyone had luck with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6HsUapqNs4
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Mar 27, 2012 00:16
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Decided to stick with OEM headlights. A/C is blowing ice loving cold and my blower is working again. Also I ordered an Ireland Engineering catback. Can't wait.
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Mar 27, 2012 02:48
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So, I got my rear E36 wheel bearing swapped out. This was terrifying, as I am stuck doing 50 miles a day in an 8MPG truck until I get this thing rolling. I got it out and in with nothing more specialized than: 3x 3/8" x 4" bolts and some nuts (to back out the hub via lug nut holes) 1 foot 5/8" threaded bar 2x nuts about 8x of the biggest washers I could get. 2" OD. Wanted 2.5 or 2.75",no luck. Cast iron flange for 1.5" pipe Elbow grease, family size container Oh, and the PO rounded the axle nut off on that side. So, before I could even get the poo poo off I had to drill/dremel/insult that thing off. I rented all sorts of slide hammers and pullers and poo poo but nothing was even close to helping pull the hub and bearing, so I brought it all back and got crafty in the Home Depot hardware aisle. The bearing itself was so blown out that I could not get purchase on the back side, so it had to be Dremeled out. Imagine my surprise when I got two full length cuts across the bearing off one of the *cheap* Dremel cutoff wheels. I thought these bitches were hardened steel? I swapped cutoffs for the inner race just cause I bought a big old tube of em, and it tore through it no problem. Bearing itself was missing all of its seals and had a handful of dark metal powder, and just pretty much shattered as I worked it out. This all cropped up right aroudn the time that some rear end in a top hat hit-and-ran on that side and I suspect he may have smacked the wheel pretty well on his way in (which still appears straight), might have been the straw that broke the camel's back. --- I did learn that Amazon Prime is fuckin' amazing for car stuff on the quick. I got the 30mm 12 point socket for the hubs overnight for $2 cheaper than Grainger quoted me, and it was going to take them a week. Parting note: When they say "you'll have to drop the sway bar to pull the halfshaft," don't second guess them. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 11:46 on Mar 27, 2012 |
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Mar 27, 2012 11:36
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I'm a lucky bastard and have access to a four post lift, but myself and the owner of said lift mostly have experience lifting up FWD cars. What do I need to do to lift the rear of a RWD BMW? Chuck the front wheels? I mean, they're just spinning, and I'm lifting on the diff, so technically the car could roll right off.
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Mar 27, 2012 12:51
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Fermunky posted:I think it is only "normal" for people like me who diff mounts are either on their way out or already gone. Yeah that's what it was! I mentioned the sub-frame but apparently it's only really an issue for the coupes and convertibles. They checked it and I'm fine though.
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Mar 27, 2012 12:57
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bolind posted:I'm a lucky bastard and have access to a four post lift, but myself and the owner of said lift mostly have experience lifting up FWD cars. Leave it in gear and use the handbrake? I'd be more worried about lifting the car up via the diff though.
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Mar 27, 2012 13:11
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Yeah that's what it was! I mentioned the sub-frame but apparently it's only really an issue for the coupes and convertibles. They checked it and I'm fine though. Hey, I got one right! Did you have them replace the diff bushings? If so, mind me asking what they charged? Or at least how many hours they quoted you?
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Mar 27, 2012 14:22
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ppp posted:Leave it in gear and use the handbrake? I'd be more worried about lifting the car up via the diff though. Both things would result in the rear wheels being locked, and the front wheels rotating freely, as it is an RWD, and the handbrake engages the rear wheels. The diff is the factory jacking point, along with the center of the front crossmember and the four jacking points at the sides. 
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Mar 27, 2012 14:36
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dodatron posted:Since the OP says Minis can play too - I'm looking at purchasing an R56 - we drove a few this week and had an absolute blast. Is there anything in particular to look out for when shopping around? How do they last beyond 100,000 kms? I have an R53. While it's fun to drive it's a pain to maintain. BMW prices on parts plus they seem to use all their reject parts in these cars. Even in the new ones the interior feels cheap despite it's nice looks. Do not buy one with a sunroof ever, it will drive you nuts. On the R56 make sure if it's under the coolant pump recall that it has been done, otherwise fire is potentially in your future As you get over 60k you will need to replace all the suspension bushings
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Mar 27, 2012 15:09
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Can anyone confirm the E46 sway bar end links are as easy as they look? I've noticed a bit of a clunking on bumps recently, finally got the chance to jack the car up today, and sure enough the passenger side link is rusted off at the bar.
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Mar 28, 2012 06:01
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Lightbulb Out posted:I've got an E30 that seems to be torque steering. At high speed, when you apply throttle, the car veers right. When you let off, it veers left. It's somewhat scary, and was significantly worse when I was having some dynamic camber/toe issues from the rear trailing arm bolts working loose. That has since been fixed, and the alignment has stayed in place without issue. My subframe bushings were destroyed. Let's hope polyurethane fixes the problem.
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Mar 28, 2012 16:12
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wolrah posted:Can anyone confirm the E46 sway bar end links are as easy as they look? I've noticed a bit of a clunking on bumps recently, finally got the chance to jack the car up today, and sure enough the passenger side link is rusted off at the bar. Easy, yes. It is easiest to change them on ramps or use two jacks (one under each side's control arm) because they are naturally resistant to being unequally loaded.
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Mar 28, 2012 18:10
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televiper posted:http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3443970 It's coming very soon, I promise.  The car is coming back home next weekend, and I'll be doing the final assembling in the evenings after work. I'm really hoping to be back on the road before mid-April.
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Mar 28, 2012 21:52
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgPpfMBCvUU This is very similar to the noise I'm getting on right turns. Happened right after dropping the diff and catback, but I'm thinking I might have broke loose the RTABS playing with my new diff. A/C is still blowing ice cold. I wish we'd get a hot day to really test, but I'm getting at least a 30 degree drop so far.
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Mar 28, 2012 22:11
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Ick. If you live in rust country, cleaning behind your emblems is probably a good idea. I got some black and white ones to replace the chipping ones on my hood and trunk, and when I pulled off the front one, the entire concave back part was filled with like a golfball worth of pure crud. At first I thought it was like tar or something to help the emblem stay attached, but no, it was just many years of filth that gets stuck under it. On that topic, anyone know where I can get black and white 70mm roundels for the wheel center caps?
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Mar 28, 2012 22:50
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Now that the weather is nice again, I've got a laundry list of things to do on my E46: -Clean/detail, along with oil change + filters maintenance. I should also change my spark plugs, as they're probably original to the car and with 112,000 km, they're definitely due for replacement. -Replace water pump, expansion tank + cap, thermostat and Part 01; it's bulging a bit at the quick-connect on the thermostat end, and I'm not comfortable with it. Should I replace the other radiator hose while I'm at it (even though it looks fine)? -Replace front control arm bushings - I've heard from here and from my indie shop that Powerflex bushings are the way to go. First of all, are they more durable than the OEM rubber bushings? Are there any other issues I should be aware of? -Flush brake fluid (I'm also seriously tempted to take out the CDV - gently caress that thing). Finally, my passenger seat headrest has developed an irritating rattle. I've heard that the solution is to pull the headrest and rails out of the seat and coat them with lithium grease. Any input on that?
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Mar 28, 2012 22:59
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LifelongFan posted:Pulled the trigger on it. F30 328i sedan, sport package. It's loving awesome. Love it... And I so want those wheels on my '07 328i.
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Mar 28, 2012 23:50
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1996 328is. I'm in Canada. My windshield wipers suck balls. They rattle, they hang up on each other, they leave smears and don't hold against the window. I bought them back in about October, and we had such a boring winter I hardly used them at all so I didn't realize just how crappy they are until last night driving home in the rain. Any recommendations?
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Mar 30, 2012 03:52
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I use Bosch wipers on every thing I own. I like em, sure they are a little pricy, but is good vision worth cheapening out on?
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Mar 30, 2012 05:10
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ExecuDork posted:1996 328is. I'm in Canada. So you're saying the wiper arms themselves are not behaving? First thing to try is to tighten down the bolt that holds them on. Sounds like they are getting loose. If the splined part of the wiper arm (that goes over the piece they bolt to) is all chewed up you may need new arms. And if they won't stay on the windshield anyway, you probably want new arms (or at least springs).
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Mar 30, 2012 16:06
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