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biracial bear for uncut posted:Less waste than just using the spools that come with 99% of the suppliers you can buy from? One nice feature of the spools themselves is that you can re-ziptie them (or velcro strap them) at any time using the 3x passthrough slots and de-spool it for storage or weighing. This would eliminate the guesswork that comes with trying to figure out if you have enough filament left to print something because you can easily weigh just the filament itself. Currently I weigh every regular non-master spool I use before it goes into service so I know the approximate tare weight of the spool. Storage space is also reduced because storing just the filament takes up less room than having a dozen half full spools.
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May 3, 2018 16:35
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If only that kind of design took into account the headache that comes with tangled lines of filament that are coiled up and zip-tied for shipment.
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May 3, 2018 16:50
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Built my extruder on the new Mk 3 last night. Should get all of the electronics and initial self tests done tonight. I'm pretty handy as a rule, but so far I'm really impressed with how the kit has almost put itself together so far.
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May 3, 2018 17:59
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mewse posted:Agreed <1kg spools are dumb thank god for our hosed up shipping prices Maybe this is an opportunity to solidify a 1kg masterspool standard
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May 3, 2018 18:16
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NeurosisHead posted:Built my extruder on the new Mk 3 last night. Should get all of the electronics and initial self tests done tonight. I'm pretty handy as a rule, but so far I'm really impressed with how the kit has almost put itself together so far. The one thing I enjoyed noticing after is the stepper motors can detect if they are ramming into the side and immediatly notice it. No end stops at all. The most fun part is the bed calibration. The first layer calibration and using Live Z Tuning and knowing Live Z Tuning works when ever it's printing is a godsend.
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May 3, 2018 18:33
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I made the terrible mistake of installing the prusa multi material upgrade that had been sitting on mah shelf since august and boy is that whole thing a turd. Eeeverything jams.
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May 3, 2018 19:52
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Oovee posted:I made the terrible mistake of installing the prusa multi material upgrade that had been sitting on mah shelf since august and boy is that whole thing a turd. Eeeverything jams. That's probably why they redesigned it.
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May 4, 2018 00:33
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mattfl posted:When did you order and how long did it take to come? It's definitely tempting although I'm not really having any issues with the PEI bed right now. I don't really notice the noise from the hotend fan, where I think my noise comes from is the stepper motors, is there a proven way to quiet those down? I pre-ordered from Prusa when they first were announced, took me several months to get it, though I understand it's a shorter wait now.
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May 4, 2018 00:34
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 Considering my setup, what can I do to dampen vibrations? I have those little clear rubber feet under the printer, but I still see some ringing. I think the belts are tight enough. I think the table is sturdy enough, too. Should I add something more between the printer and the table? I've read before that people use patio stone slabs, or those rubber puzzle pieces you can get at Home Depot.
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May 4, 2018 02:05
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Do you have dampers on your steppers?
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May 4, 2018 02:10
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Revol posted:
I pretty much cut out 100% of the vibrations when I used an F-clamp to clamp the base of my printer to the table it was sitting on.
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May 4, 2018 12:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I pretty much cut out 100% of the vibrations when I used an F-clamp to clamp the base of my printer to the table it was sitting on. Have you got a really sturdy table? With the setup in the photo it seems like it would just increase the vibrations traveling into that wooden table. If you've ever pressed a vibrating tuning fork into a piece of wooden furniture, the wood acts like an amplifier. I would give the paving slab a shot, it works by having enough mass that it doesn't pick up vibrations from the printer. I've used the jigsaw mats on a counter in my basement and it doesn't isolate as much as I'd like. I ended up putting the printer on a concrete floor with a jigsaw pad between them.
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May 4, 2018 14:18
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mewse posted:Have you got a really sturdy table? With the setup in the photo it seems like it would just increase the vibrations traveling into that wooden table. If you've ever pressed a vibrating tuning fork into a piece of wooden furniture, the wood acts like an amplifier. Yep. It's an old cart that was originally used by an ancient dot-matrix printer that held the paper in a compartment below that fed up thru a slot into the bottom of the printer. Dot-matrix printer is gone, 3d printer sits on top, F-clamp thru the paper slot holds the 3d printer in place.
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May 4, 2018 14:55
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EVIL Gibson posted:The one thing I enjoyed noticing after is the stepper motors can detect if they are ramming into the side and immediatly notice it. No end stops at all. I got everything done and calibrated last night, and it was awesome to see all of my hard work pay off. I figured I'd take today to get the machine dialed in really tight, and discovered that my SD>USB adapter disappeared so I guess I'll have to wait for best buy to open to get a new one. 
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May 4, 2018 15:14
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Looking at designs to crib off of for my Big Printer Mk1 (yes just belts at this revision level) and with as much whinging as I'm seeing about how you can't just expand a Voron 2 to more than 300mm or so, thinking of redesigning the sucker for bigger extrusion/rails. Anything fundamentally wrongheaded here?
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May 4, 2018 15:19
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mekilljoydammit posted:Looking at designs to crib off of for my Big Printer Mk1 (yes just belts at this revision level) and with as much whinging as I'm seeing about how you can't just expand a Voron 2 to more than 300mm or so, thinking of redesigning the sucker for bigger extrusion/rails. Anything fundamentally wrongheaded here? You basically have to scale up the sizes of your components in all directions to have the same rigidity you have with the smaller machine. This is not only true for the frame, but for the motion system. You'll need bigger diameter rods as you go longer in a particular axis direction, for example (and all of the scaling up to fit/work with larger diameter rods applies). I don't know what the threshold is, but at some point you'll have to invest in higher torque steppers that can handle the momentum change of the larger mass in the hotend motion system. Also thicker/stronger/more rigid belts to reduce the deflection in said belts when the printer tries to change direction.
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May 4, 2018 16:08
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You basically have to scale up the sizes of your components in all directions to have the same rigidity you have with the smaller machine. The scaling up of the motion components was part of the plan - Voron uses linear rail which is nice and available in larger sizes. Also going to rectangular extrusion here and there instead of square... anyway, those are the known knowns. The known unknown is how big a CoreXY can get before belt stiffness gets to be an issue, though I figure I can try to compensate for that by just using fatter layers and not as much X-Y speed, which gets around the issue with bigger steppers. I had the idea of ball screws and servomotors some pages back but the big limiting factor is that I just want a big printer, not that I want to spend the next year reinventing every part of it.  I don't know what the unknown unknowns are though, obviously.
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May 4, 2018 16:41
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Luminaflare posted:Honestly for miniatures themselves your better off just putting up the extra cash and getting a DLP or SLA printer. I'd stick with FDM for 90% of terrain though, just use some filler primer instead of normal primer. This is kind of where my uncertainty lies, I guess I don't really have a mental image of exactly what the difference between say a dialed in smallest layer possible Prusa vs an equivalent SLA looks like, and how much/what kind of post processing each needs. What would I be looking for for filler primer and how much detail does it obscure? For reference, I'm mostly looking at doing stuff from Printable Scenery for my prints, I don't know if anyone has experience with them or not.
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May 4, 2018 18:19
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In my experience filler primer is "light surface scratch filler" level performance not "obscures layer lines" performance FWIW
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May 5, 2018 18:24
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Yeah, if you actually want to make the layer lines invisible, you've got to sand the surface or use a real filler like Bondo. (Or ideally both).
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May 5, 2018 18:27
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 Very happy with how my set up looks with the concrete paver. I got a 20" square that is a perfect fit, and spray painted it black. Over the next few weeks I plan to reprint the extruder mount, along with replacing the woodcut LCD faceplate, in yellow. (I bleed Pittsburgh black and gold, after all.) This didn't seem to help any with ghosting, though. I see no difference in the XYZ cube test. I think I might know why. When I was putting the paver under the printer, I was surprised to see how light the printer felt. In fact, it can slide along the concrete pretty easily. If this is the case, I can't imagine the concrete is going to be able to help eat vibrations. Maybe I should find a way to weight the bottom of the printer down? Maybe I'll print another XYZ cube after placing some of the weights from my ankle weights onto the sides of the printer.
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May 6, 2018 01:48
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Revol posted:
Maybe throw a non-slip pad in there between the printer and paver?
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May 6, 2018 01:54
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Made some more mods to my Rostock Max v2.. Since upgrading to the Duet Wifi I have really been missing the local display on my printer (the old character display it had is not supported by the Duet Wifi). However I also didn't really want to pay ~$100 for the official PanelDue display. Given that the Duet Wifi interface is web based, I figured a small 7-8 inch tablet running a full screen browser would do the trick.. And I was right! Bought a 7" 5th gen Fire Tablet from a friend for $20.. Installed a "kiosk browser" app so I could run the website full screen. It works great. The Duet web interface interface is responsive and will change to suit small screens. My printer is powered by a ATX power supply. So I took a USB port connector from a old PC case and wired it to the +5V Standby power rail on the ATX PSU. This way the tablet will always be powered. And then I took the old display mount, removed the display from it, and mounted the tablet to it. I did this by removing the back of the Fire tablet and drilling a few screws through it into the old display mount. The tablet is mounted very solidly and isn't going anywhere. I need to tackle the USB power next... I think might just solder the +5v and ground directly to the back of the USB connector on the tablet so I don't need to plug in a USB cable. So now instead of the limited PanelDue interface, I have the full web interface on the front of the printer. Pictars!   
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May 6, 2018 06:10
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If I want to scale some models from thingiverse, is Microsoft Build 3D the easiest way?
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May 6, 2018 06:27
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goodness posted:If I want to scale some models from thingiverse, is Microsoft Build 3D the easiest way? Scaling is most easily done in the slicer itself, in my experience.
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May 6, 2018 06:30
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After fretting about I have the cube constructed. Protip Make sure you have enough of all the parts you need before you start  
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May 6, 2018 06:40
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Decided to go ahead and hide the power wire to the tablet I added to my printer... There where some conveniently labeled test points for USB power. Soldered some wires and ran them out a hole drilled into the back case.  Crimped on a 2 pin locking connector so I could disconnect from the printer if needed.  It works!  No visible cables  
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May 7, 2018 04:11
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Has anyone come up with or seen a good design for a "pop fit" mechanism for boards rather than treaded inserts? I have a screwless raspberry pi case that is injection molded that has bosses lined up with the screw holes to index and support the board, and then a tab that the board pops past and holds it in place. I would really like to do this instead of heat staked inserts, but it looks like you need a lot of precision with things like the tab and the sizing of the bosses to get a good hold. Does it seem reasonable to try this or should I just stick with the inserts?
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May 7, 2018 19:28
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Are there any good podcasts about 3D printing? I have a log drive and could use some fun info. E- I see there’s some out there but it would be nice to not have to wade through a bunch of crap E2- wtfff seems pretty good so far Snowy fucked around with this message at 22:19 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 21:26
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Mr. Powers posted:Has anyone come up with or seen a good design for a "pop fit" mechanism for boards rather than treaded inserts? I have a screwless raspberry pi case that is injection molded that has bosses lined up with the screw holes to index and support the board, and then a tab that the board pops past and holds it in place. What kind of crazy situation do you have where plastic screw holes are too weak to hold the board in place?
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May 7, 2018 23:50
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stevewm posted:Decided to go ahead and hide the power wire to the tablet I added to my printer... I don’t think this is getting enough love. It’s “maker” as gently caress and looks amazing. Great job!
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May 8, 2018 01:49
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You wouldn't download a car... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kd4ZLn-Ouw
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May 8, 2018 02:35
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BMan posted:What kind of crazy situation do you have where plastic screw holes are too weak to hold the board in place? Do you mean just threads in the plastic rather than heat staked inserts? I can't tap the hole as there's not enough clearance to tap and I don't think the threads would be strong enough if printed (m2.5x.45).
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May 8, 2018 02:56
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Mr. Powers posted:Do you mean just threads in the plastic rather than heat staked inserts? I can't tap the hole as there's not enough clearance to tap and I don't think the threads would be strong enough if printed (m2.5x.45).  e: there are like a billion designs for pi cases available to download. The official case has those standoff pegs and is actually kinda annoying to wedge in to fit properly, it's much more secure with a 3d printed case just to screw m3 screws into the 3d printed holes, you don't need heated inserts wtf mewse fucked around with this message at 03:15 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 03:08
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If I needed just a Pi case, I would use any of the ones I have sitting around, but I don't need just a Pi case, I need a case to hold a Pi and a number of other things. I was asking about the pop fit for the convenience factor. Whether I use heat set inserts or mash a screw into plastic as an alternative to the pop fit isn't relevant.
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May 8, 2018 03:29
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Well I assume these hypothetical pop fit tabs would be printed standing up? I can tell you from experience that they would be extremely weak and probably snap immediately.
BMan fucked around with this message at 04:09 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 04:06
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BMan posted:Well I assume these hypothetical pop fit pegs would be printed standing up? I can tell you from experience that they would be extremely weak and probably snap immediately. They would and that was my primary concern. I was hoping someone had done it before, but I'm guessing most people don't bother because of what you said. I appreciate the feedback. I guess I will just have to wtf the boards with threaded inserts.
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May 8, 2018 04:10
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Mr. Powers posted:Has anyone come up with or seen a good design for a "pop fit" mechanism for boards rather than treaded inserts? I have a screwless raspberry pi case that is injection molded that has bosses lined up with the screw holes to index and support the board, and then a tab that the board pops past and holds it in place. Here are some tips for doing snap fit joints. https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing
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May 8, 2018 04:20
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Ordered an assembled Prusa i3 mk3.  X110
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May 11, 2018 23:07
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Got my chinese mk42 heat bed clone and surprisingly it's made with aluminum instead of pcb material
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May 11, 2018 23:39
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