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NLJP posted:I;ve got an i5-4590 and the stock cooler seems to be dying. Cleaned out case etc. but it's very loud under load. What should I be looking into getting that's not mondo expensive? Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is the go to for a good, reliable, price-conscious cooler. It's like $35 USD on Amazon.
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Aug 11, 2017 23:20
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We also recommend the Cryorig H7: https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ It's a bit more expensive, but it's better-engineered than the Hyper 212 EVO. In both cases, look up the vertical clearance necessary to fit them and ensure there's room in your case first.
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Aug 11, 2017 23:22
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My computer is starting to show its age with newer games. It's an i3-4330 with only 4gb of DDR3 RAM, is it worth buying a faster Haswell or Broadwell processor and more DDR3 RAM or should I just bite the bullet and invest in a new motherboard and DDR4? I only play games at 1080p and just bought a GTX 1060 6gb
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Aug 11, 2017 23:43
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BIG HEADLINE posted:We also recommend the Cryorig H7: https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ Only an extra.. $83 for someone to come to your house and install it for you. What a racket.
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Aug 12, 2017 00:04
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tofes posted:My computer is starting to show its age with newer games. It's an i3-4330 with only 4gb of DDR3 RAM, is it worth buying a faster Haswell or Broadwell processor and more DDR3 RAM or should I just bite the bullet and invest in a new motherboard and DDR4? I only play games at 1080p and just bought a GTX 1060 6gb I would get at least 16gb of DDR3 if I were you.
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Aug 12, 2017 00:21
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Wirth1000 posted:Only an extra.. $83 for someone to come to your house and install it for you. What a racket. To be honest, it was the hardest part of my first build outside of "what the gently caress CPU holder thing is this Asus"
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Aug 12, 2017 01:22
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Arivia posted:To be honest, it was the hardest part of my first build outside of "what the gently caress CPU holder thing is this Asus" Yeah wtf is that thing?
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Aug 12, 2017 02:38
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Building my first mini-ITX motherboard, and in a small case to boot. (Wifey space requirements) This is the PC: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kK83Yr The issue I'm having is with the heatsink/fan fitting in the case with the PSU. PartsPicker says it didnt know if the case and HS/Fan, but if you read the Q&A, they say you need something under 92mm. The HS/Fan should be 65mm. Despite them saying 92, the PSU will not sit flat. I went back and read the reviews and one said "Caution: if you use CPU heatsink with fan, you have only 50 mm height clearance. (I am installing an ASRock Q2900-ITX motherboard which uses passive cooling.)" A bunch of other reviews talk about using just the stock heat sink that came w/ CPU since it actually fit. I havent taken the fan off this heatsink, but if that or the stock heatsink fit - would that be acceptable or am I entering cramped space/overheating zone? If not acceptable, which <50mm hs/fan combo should I get? Edit: and as far as use it's just a htpc to stream shows/movies, download torrents, web browse. Never gaming, editing, or any other flimflam. Will likely be in our tv cabinet at some point so meh on airflow. Edit2: Opened the CPU box and it had a pretty slim HS/Fan that would undoubtedly fit - safe to use that as the final answer? Duxwig fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Aug 12, 2017 |
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Aug 12, 2017 03:25
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NLJP posted:I;ve got an i5-4590 and the stock cooler seems to be dying. Cleaned out case etc. but it's very loud under load. What should I be looking into getting that's not mondo expensive? Newegg had the Hyper 212 Evo for $20 after rebate last week. It's now back up to $30 unfortunately. If $30 is too much, I suggest waiting until the next sale on a Hyper 212.
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Aug 12, 2017 04:21
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BIG HEADLINE posted:We also recommend the Cryorig H7: https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ The 212 cooler is like the Arctic Silver 5 of thermal paste: people still keep recommending them even long after better alternatives exist at similar pricing.
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Aug 12, 2017 04:32
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Palladium posted:The 212 cooler is like the Arctic Silver 5 of thermal paste: people still keep recommending them even long after better alternatives exist at similar pricing. Well, much like Arctic Silver 5, the 212 EVO is the most respectable HSF that you can pick up *anywhere*, even if retail stores will overcharge horribly for such an item because they're generally shelf queens that *never* get bought except by "mine died, I need a new one NOW" customers.
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Aug 12, 2017 04:41
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Looks like I've reached the limits of my LGA1155 socket mobo and various other parts. I'm looking at picking this up: ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 Mini I am not getting a small case but this seems to be the lowest price GTX 1080 8GB that is in stock. Does anyone have any experience with ZOTAC? Are they decent quality?
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Aug 12, 2017 04:42
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a helpful bear posted:Looks like I've reached the limits of my LGA1155 socket mobo and various other parts. I'm looking at picking this up: Their boards *work*, but their support and support network is widely recognized as being bad to horrid. To the best of my knowledge, they do not keep RMA depots in North America, simply administration offices to receive them. Your replacement board comes from *Asia*, which means the turnaround time is significant. They're definitely a second-tier AIB seller, and while I'd probably have no problem using a mid-grade card from them in a non-primary computer, anything x70 and higher I'd definitely stick to the first-tier sellers. ZOTAC used to sucker a lot of people in with a 'lifetime' warranty when you registered your card, but people soon found out that the price they paid for that lifetime warranty was turnaround on RMAs that could be or exceed a month.
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Aug 12, 2017 04:49
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That's exactly the insight I was looking for. Thank you! I know we can't predict things, but do we expect AMD to drop prices on their Ryzen line when the new Intel chips land? I'm having a rough time waiting the two weeks (impulse buys tonight).
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Aug 12, 2017 05:05
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a helpful bear posted:That's exactly the insight I was looking for. Thank you! AMD's margins on both the Ryzen and Threadripper are already about as low as they can get to steal as much market share away from Intel as they can. Short of promo codes, you're not going to be seeing deep discounts on them any time soon.
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Aug 12, 2017 05:21
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Thanks for humoring me. I'll put a hold on any mobo/cpu purchases until 8/21 like has been said over and over.
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Aug 12, 2017 05:24
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I've seen some big discounts on the 1800 and 1800X but you should just buy the 1700 and overclock it anyways.
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Aug 12, 2017 05:24
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Wait, so is it worth holding out for a Z370 motherboard and an 8700k processor if I've got a laptop that will be pretty serviceable in the meantime? I have some DDR-4 3000MHz RAM. How can I tell if it'll be compatible?
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Aug 12, 2017 07:06
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If it's compatible with Z170/270 boards, it won't have a problem with Coffee Lake. Ryzen is the CPU you want to buy memory specifically cleared to play nicely with it.
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Aug 12, 2017 07:17
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What's a good case to get when you want to use your Nvidia 1060 but only one regular 3.5" hard disk? I was thinking of getting an mATX board, as anything smaller scares me. One of those cases by Fractal look cool: "Define Mini C". Comments welcome.
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Aug 12, 2017 12:00
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Palladium posted:The 212 cooler is like the Arctic Silver 5 of thermal paste: people still keep recommending them even long after better alternatives exist at similar pricing. I have seen the Cryorig HSF that is often recomended as a better alternative to the Hyper 212 on sale in one store here in the UK - and it was out of stock.
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Aug 12, 2017 12:57
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lllllllllllllllllll posted:What's a good case to get when you want to use your Nvidia 1060 but only one regular 3.5" hard disk? I was thinking of getting an mATX board, as anything smaller scares me. One of those cases by Fractal look cool: "Define Mini C". Comments welcome. Honestly, it looks pretty attractive to me--only concern is the report that it's usually necessary to slide the PSU out to attach cables to it and whatnot. http://techreport.com/review/30904/fractal-design-define-c-case-reviewed The case supports ATX boards, but I think you should suit yourself when you decide on a motherboard size. ATX may just wind up giving you a little more breathing room is all.
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Aug 12, 2017 17:12
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I think I'll get it then. Thanks!
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Aug 12, 2017 17:38
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The Define C supports ATX, the Define Mini C does not. They're virtually identical other than height, iirc.
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Aug 12, 2017 18:06
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Oops, that's right. One more reason to throw everything into pcpartpicker to make sure it's all cool. I've been trying to game on the Mac lately and the experience of that is making me less interested in waiting for a new generation of desktop CPUs... If I'm mainly interested in gaming, how much longer do you figure an 8700k over a 7700k would increase the lifespan of the machine? Also, it's too late to cancel my order with Amazon anyway.
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Aug 12, 2017 19:30
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I'm honestly partial to the Air series: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-air-240-high-airflow-micro-atx-and-mini-itx-pc-case Turn it on its side and never have to worry about GPU or HSF sag. It even comes with the rubber feet to do it. Newegg has the black version for $79.99 after a $10 rebate and the white version for $69.99 after a $20 rebate. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Aug 12, 2017 |
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Aug 12, 2017 20:13
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BIG HEADLINE posted:I'm honestly partial to the Air series: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-air-240-high-airflow-micro-atx-and-mini-itx-pc-case Curious, have you or anyone else here tried the Thermaltake V21? It looks like you can have a horizontal mounted motherboard and lots of different ways to configure the case (or even join two together!). Corsair is a solid bet though, I have an R series case that has been great. Massive side panel fan!
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Aug 12, 2017 20:21
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priznat posted:Curious, have you or anyone else here tried the Thermaltake V21? It looks like you can have a horizontal mounted motherboard and lots of different ways to configure the case (or even join two together!). Never tried it, but I'm definitely a fan of cases that sequester the PSU away from the main system compartment.
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Aug 12, 2017 20:24
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Never tried it, but I'm definitely a fan of cases that sequester the PSU away from the main system compartment. Yeah it looks pretty slick with the options. I am still planning on a phanteks enthoo evolv with the tempered glass (mATX or ATX, depending on motherboard), but I'd like to try out one of those V21s too. Case related, if anyone is looking for an open case platform for workbenching or whatever, check out http://www.highspeedpc.com I have ordered their stuff for work and they're great platforms if that's the kind of stuff you're looking for. Not something for most home users but who knows, someone might find it useful.
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Aug 12, 2017 20:33
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Thanks friends, I['ll check out how much those coolers are in Sweden and whether they'll fit in my nanoxia deep silence 4
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Aug 12, 2017 23:09
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What kind of value is $260USD for an i7 4770 (4c/8t non-OCable), some generic mobo and psu, Win 10 Pro, 8GB ram, matx case? No GPU/HDD. Looking for a second system for the office but can't figure if this is good value for older tech. Don't have my ear to the ground on second hand prices. Shrimp or Shrimps fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Aug 13, 2017 |
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Aug 13, 2017 03:17
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I'm selling new 1TB Samsung Evo M.2 drives for $400 each: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3830143
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Aug 13, 2017 06:15
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I mostly use my ancient PC for gaming, but nothing too onerous - rarely the latest AAA title, which I'm more likely to get on PS4, but stuff like XCom 2 and Civ 6. Here in Australia, I think I've worked out i can get something mostly contemporary if I get a new box for around $1,000, but I'm a bit cash strapped so I'm trying to work out how far just a GPU and a SSD will go as an upgrade. After reading the OP and skimming over the last few pages of posts, I suspect it's probably worth replacing the whole thing, but I still have a really hard time understanding how much my CPU is a handbrake on performance (which then involves getting a new mobo, RAM etc). I currently have: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30 ghz (Sandy Bridge) 8 GB DDR3 RAM @ 668MHz Asustek P8P67 (LGA1155) mobo 1 gig GeForce GTX 560ti 1 TB samsung HDD (a bit worried this is going to go soon as disk usage is through the roof, part of the reason I'm thinking upgrade). My monitor is only 1680x1050 but after I sort out whether I ugprade or replace it will probably be the next thing I consider replacing. How far can I get with just a GFX and SSD upgrade? I assume there's not much point getting a GTX 1060 because my CPU/RAM will be throttling performance - is there an upgrade that makes sense for a significant performance boost, or is it just a waste of time and I might as well wait a while longer and just replace the whole thing?
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Aug 13, 2017 10:28
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Blamestorm posted:
Very. Wrong. Your CPU is very unlikely to bottleneck anything. There are paths (coffee ryzen) but really you can just keep trucking with your current setup, drop in a GPU and SSD. Get a cooler and overclock if you have'nt already, and you can transfer the SSD, GPU, And cooler pretty easily once you have 
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Aug 13, 2017 10:41
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Aesculus posted:Very. Also get another 8gb of RAM and check to see if you need to replace your PSU.
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Aug 13, 2017 10:44
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Thread title just needs to be "overclock your drat 2500k" by now. It'll save about 1/3 of posts being made.
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Aug 13, 2017 13:29
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Thanks guys. Much appreciated. How would I know if I need to change the PSU? Just in reference to the increased wattage of the GPU, or due to age? I'll double check what I have but I think it was pretty solid, I've had them die in the past so I would have probably been overkill.
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Aug 13, 2017 13:35
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Blamestorm posted:I mostly use my ancient PC for gaming, but nothing too onerous - rarely the latest AAA title, which I'm more likely to get on PS4, but stuff like XCom 2 and Civ 6. Here in Australia, I think I've worked out i can get something mostly contemporary if I get a new box for around $1,000, but I'm a bit cash strapped so I'm trying to work out how far just a GPU and a SSD will go as an upgrade. After reading the OP and skimming over the last few pages of posts, I suspect it's probably worth replacing the whole thing, but I still have a really hard time understanding how much my CPU is a handbrake on performance (which then involves getting a new mobo, RAM etc). Grab a program like SSDLife before you write that piece of hardware off either. It's got great capacity so you want to stretch the life of that piece out before you replace it, so definitely check out the vitals before you start looking for a fresh one.
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Aug 13, 2017 14:29
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Blamestorm posted:Thanks guys. Much appreciated. How would I know if I need to change the PSU? Just in reference to the increased wattage of the GPU, or due to age? Just due to age. If you're buying new components you don't want them to get blown up on you or whatever. Plus, if you get a good one you can use it in that new system down the road. Out of everything we're suggesting you pick up, the only thing you couldn't carry forward to a new build would be the RAM. But 16gb will go a long way if you can afford it.
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Aug 13, 2017 15:27
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Hey building/upgrading thread. Last time I was in this subforum, I got an excellent recommendation for a refurbished Lenovo T440 that has served me supremely well for school in the US in the last 34 months. Trackpad seems to be dying a slow death now, but excellent value for money over the time. Now that I'm back in Germany, I'm looking to buy a new desktop rig for the first time since 2009. I'm looking to get the base setup with no monitor or other peripherals, a decent SSD (have good experience with an 850 Evo 250GB so far), and CPU/GPU to play the most current gaming titles in good quality. Doesn't have to be ultra-high quality, looking good at high fps on my 1.920 x 1.080 is fine for me. I'm using the second HDMI connection to hook up my television, but since I can easily play World of Tanks while watching Game of Thrones on the secondary screen, I doubt that's an issue 8 years later. As a new feature for me, I'd love to have an option for low-effort gaming recording/uploading if that's not expensive or complicated. My budget is in the 800-900 Euro area, and since it looks like hardware is quite a bit cheaper in the US, I think that'd leave me somewhere under a 1,000 dollar equivalent. I used the Parts Picker in the OP, and went with a selection process that saw me pick something in my price range if it had a ton of high ratings, that's pretty much it. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant How does this look? (Not sure about a 6 core CPU, or whether the motherboard is overkill, they both seemed popular, but I'd be happy to downsize them if instead spending an extra 60 bucks on the GPU gets me better performance) I also don't plan on overclocking, so if I should downgrade the CPU, that's fine. CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($71.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($118.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.64 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB SC GAMING Video Card ($219.88 @ OutletPC) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($41.89 @ Newegg) Total: $860.13 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-13 14:06 EDT-0400 /edit: I guess the suggested 'moderate build' for gaming also looks pretty comparable if I switch out the HDD for an SSD https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/wMgXsY/modest-gaming-build Duzzy Funlop fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 13, 2017 |
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Aug 13, 2017 19:20
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