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Southern Heel posted:I'm feeling better about my ability to churn out rank and file quickly - but I'm wondering if counter and chit-based games might be in my future These guys look excellent man, don't sell yourself short! And orange and blue are complimentary colors, whoever designed those uniforms just had a pretty good grasp on color theory is all. Alokgen posted:Set a goal of finished a model in a single sitting. I take a lot of breaks when I paint and something that can be done in a day usually takes a week or two of evening time to get done.
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Mar 27, 2017 16:06
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 00:21 |
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Greetings from the gunpla thread. I'm looking to try painting pilot figures that come with the models in something other than just flat colors. They're 1/60 scale, so we're talking around maybe half to 1/3rd the size of a Warhammer figure. I could use some constructive criticism before I try it again (the flat color experience is from having tried it). I usually learn better when I write things out. Here's the translated color guide and snapshots of what the figures should look like:  Here's my plan. I'm new to this method of painting stuff and trying to break into it for at least this kit, if not others. I never had a Warhammer phase and there's a HUGE amount of tutorials out there. This is what I gleaned from watching a few. Comments/critique/helpful suggestions are most welcome. I Color callouts are based on what I have. If I need to buy something, my local hobby shop stocks Vallejo, P3, Reaper, and Citadel. I prefer Vallejo solely because I've got racks with cutouts for them but if there's a better color to buy, I'll buy any water soluble acrylic. I'd rather avoid custom washes - I'd much rather have the color and just mix in some water, or thinner, or glaze medium to make a wash. 1) Gray primer 2) White base coat 3) Apply a brown wash (either P3 Flesh Wash or Vallejo Model Color Flat Brown 140) for the face and hair, flat blue wash (either Model Color Prussian Blue 51, Dark Blue 53, or Andrea Blue 65) for the inner pants/jacket parts 4) Mix up some Vallejo Light Flesh 6 with the brown in a 1:5 flesh:brown ratio, thin it a bit but not to wash consistency, and apply over the face 5) Once the last step is dry, mix up some Vallejo Basic Skintone 17 with the brown in a 1:5 skintone:brown ratio, thin and apply as above 6) Once above is dry, repeat but with a 2:3 ratio of skintone:brown 7) For the inner coat, mix white and Vallejo Sky Blue 67, Prussian Blue 51, and the blue wash base color at 1:5 mix:wash base, thin and apply, repeating with progressively less blue wash for another coat or two 8) For the outer coat, mix Vallejo Dark Blue 53 with the blue wash base color at 1:5 blue:wash, apply thin coats as above 9) For the inner pants, mix white + a tinge of Vallejo Sky Blue 67 and the blue wash color at 1:5 mix:wash, apply thin coats as above 10) For the boots, same process with Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue 50 11) For the hair, same process with Vallejo Gloss Black 12) Mix up a wash of black or other applicable color, apply across the whole model, wick away excess with a dry paintbrush I realize this is pretty wordy but it really helps me to write things out and have an actual process. I don't mind going at them with toothpicks or super detail brushes, and I've got a magnifying visor as well. These are wicked tiny so I'm not going for details like pockets, just maxing out at the green chest jewel part.
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Mar 27, 2017 17:18
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MJP posted:Greetings from the gunpla thread. I'm looking to try painting pilot figures that come with the models in something other than just flat colors. They're 1/60 scale, so we're talking around maybe half to 1/3rd the size of a Warhammer figure. Warhammer (and other 28mm-ish) figures are about 1:60 - 1:65 scale. They should be roughly the same size (although obviously different proportions for Warhammer figures since they use "heroic scale").
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Mar 27, 2017 18:15
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Avenging Dentist posted:Warhammer (and other 28mm-ish) figures are about 1:60 - 1:65 scale. They should be roughly the same size (although obviously different proportions for Warhammer figures since they use "heroic scale"). I guess it's all the armor. The figure in question is about the height of the tip joint of my thumb and I wanna say like 8mm across, tops.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:52
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If they looks like these guys then they're probably 20-25mm high: They're about a head shorter than the random Reaper figure I have lying around.
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Mar 27, 2017 19:11
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Avenging Dentist posted:If they looks like these guys then they're probably 20-25mm high: Yep, that's the ones. I was going against my brother-in-law's unpainted Warhammer figures. I also read that guy's post, it doesn't really give too much info about what to do, just in-progress photos. Someone on /r/miniaturepainting mentioned I should be looking at highlighting between washes, or for a more anime-ish effect, highlighting after the washes. I'm taking that to mean mixing a tad bit of white with each color and either drybrushing or normal thin brushing a coat over the color on one side to make it look like there's light coming from that direction. Does that sound right for me to do?
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Mar 27, 2017 19:14
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If you want anime, something like my ship here, then you'll probably want to have extremely saturated colors with high contrast. You want highlights blending into the whites (tip: you actually want off-whites most of the time, go with cooler ones depending on how loud your colors are, whites only for the real tiny bit of edging). Don't drybrush - the "dusty" effect of drybrushing doesn't look anime at all since anime tends to be clean with strong lines. You could do some stippling effects with drybrushing or get stuff really similar to blending but using a drybrush technique, but that's what you want to aim for instead of "drybrushing" as-is. You want to highlight after washing anyway, but what they might be referring to is "tinting/juicing" where it's really just a filtering layer on top to try and make blends more consistent throughout the area. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 19:43
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This is starting to turn super complex and a bit head-swimmy to my noob situation. I think I'm going to just stick to the idea of a basecoat and building up to darker colors, and then see what I can do from there.
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Mar 27, 2017 19:58
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I think it really depends on the level of effort you want to put in. If you wanted, you could just paint every surface a flat color, cover everything with a wash (I'd probably use a bluish-black for the clothes and a dark brown for the skin), and maybe go over top and highlight a couple bits to make things pop. Unless you want to go deep into "fantasy miniature" style painting, I probably wouldn't do anything more than that. Presumably your little pilot isn't the focal point of the model, so I doubt anyone would mind that you didn't use all the techniques a professional fantasy minis painter would use. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Mar 27, 2017 |
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Mar 27, 2017 20:03
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MJP posted:This is starting to turn super complex and a bit head-swimmy to my noob situation. I think I'm going to just stick to the idea of a basecoat and building up to darker colors, and then see what I can do from there. Something that small, and if you're new to this, I'd get your basecoats down as neat as you can, wash it and be done
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Mar 27, 2017 20:05
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I mean, the same techniques can be used on the actual Gunpla models too so it's not like the effort in learning it will be wasted. Depending on the diorama envisioned, I wouldn't assume the pilot isn't the focal point either. There's a lot of them where a pilot is seen escaping from a sinking Gundam or about to enter the Gundam from a raised platform. But yeah, if the descriptions of the techniques sound too overbearing, do what you said you'll do and work on basecoats and working from them. I assume you're working with a light grey or white primer if you're building up to darker colors. I didn't want to assume your level of skill being noob/pro since Gunpla goes from the Gunpla exhibitions to people clipping them out and assembling them with no paint. I assumed you were already painting the stuff due to your detailed layout plan but didn't know how to go about the smaller dude so was suggesting doing harsher highlights than you're used to since you'll need it to pick out smaller details.
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Mar 27, 2017 20:15
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If you want something simple that will look nice at a distance (considering this is a complimentary accessory to a much much larger model), you could do fine with just base coats, colored washes, and gentle highlighting. If you want bright anime colors I'd recommend a white primer rather than gray; it's much easier to darken than brighten.
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Mar 27, 2017 20:22
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Yeah I'd stick to White primer -> base colors -> wash -> highlight with base colors -> final highlight with lighter colors
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Mar 27, 2017 22:00
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Just saw the winners of crystal brush this year. It seems a nice, sobering reminder of how much my poo poo sucks with their typical entries. I'm wondering how much conversion is usually needed for that competition? Or are the minis usually assembled from lesser known manufacturers? I rarely convert at all these days but the entries make it look like it's mandatory. I'm used to the golden demon stuff where you can enter some raw minis and the only real aftermarket conversion work needed is to the bases. Is this still the case?
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Mar 27, 2017 23:45
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What the hell do you do when your matte varnish starts pooling in crevasses and staying white? Because that just happened to me and I'm really ticked off but I don't want to resort to stripping the model.
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Mar 28, 2017 02:54
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SRM posted:This guy's pretty neat. I prefer a richer, warmer/gleaming gold, but it's a good looking mini and you did good work. Thanks. Yeah, I enjoy a nice warm gold that's more orange as well, but I usually switch between this more yellow gold and a richer orange gold depending on what the surrounding colors are. If I was painting reds I'd probably go for a warmer gold, but for this turquoise color and paler skin I figured a more yellow gold might be nice.
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Mar 28, 2017 03:30
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Slimnoid posted:What the hell do you do when your matte varnish starts pooling in crevasses and staying white? Because that just happened to me and I'm really ticked off but I don't want to resort to stripping the model. Gloss varnish, reapply matte varnish afterwards. I ran a paint night at the local library tonight, I'd posted in game groups on Facebook and got the local Warhammer store to supply paints, brushes, and models, and I was hoping to teach some people how to paint. No hams showed up, but I got to teach a few moms and library employees how to paint tiny plastic spacemen. It was a good night.
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Mar 28, 2017 06:06
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Slimnoid posted:What the hell do you do when your matte varnish starts pooling in crevasses and staying white? Because that just happened to me and I'm really ticked off but I don't want to resort to stripping the model. Thinner coats of varnish with some time to dry and set in between coats
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Mar 28, 2017 06:21
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Chill la Chill posted:Just saw the winners of crystal brush this year. It seems a nice, sobering reminder of how much my poo poo sucks with their typical entries. I'm wondering how much conversion is usually needed for that competition? Or are the minis usually assembled from lesser known manufacturers? I imagine it's a case where you technically dont have to, and its technically not painting, but its something thats going to impress judges even if they know its not something that should be taken into account. I kind of want to see a speed painting contest, but with really poo poo conversions. Just yank a bunch of cheap CONVERTED DAEMON PRINCE LORD figures off Ebay. Criteria will be based off before/after comparisons, with a category being based on how well the garbage conversion was made bearable via paint.
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Mar 28, 2017 07:24
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Neurolimal posted:I imagine it's a case where you technically dont have to, and its technically not painting, but its something thats going to impress judges even if they know its not something that should be taken into account. We had a SPEED CONVERSION COMPETITION at my club's most recent open day, couple of quid buy in and then 15 minutes in the communal bits box. I need to find pictures, it was won by my housemate whose only experience with miniatures is playing D&D with other peoples' toys.
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Mar 28, 2017 11:20
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Chill la Chill posted:Just saw the winners of crystal brush this year. It seems a nice, sobering reminder of how much my poo poo sucks with their typical entries. I'm wondering how much conversion is usually needed for that competition? Or are the minis usually assembled from lesser known manufacturers? According to a friend of mine who has competed in the Crystal Brush two times now, there are no official points awarded for conversion. The competition is supposed to be based strictly on one's painting ability, therefore many painters forego sculpting or heavily converting their own models and will usually have them custom commissioned to save them time and effort. In fact, you don't even need to be the painter to compete in the Crystal Brush. Some painters make several entries under their friends' names just to get more of their work under the spotlight. And much of the time, due to the popular vote aspect of judging (asking several thousand mostly 40k players to put forth their opinion on professional-level paint jobs) if you aren't painting a space marine, you've already given yourself a handicap.
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Mar 28, 2017 13:07
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SRM posted:Gloss varnish, reapply matte varnish afterwards. I don't think that would've fixed it, honestly. The matte dried thick in places, and after ~5 hours didn't thin down or dry properly. Ultimately I ended up stripping the paint off. The original glossed layer of brown paint I had down survived for the most part, so it didn't set me back THAT much. I'm putting the blame on the matte itself; it was nearly empty and I'm thinking some of it settled down there and got all funky, for lack of a better term.
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Mar 28, 2017 13:24
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Cross-posting my vow for Skullapalooza 2017 because I'm pretty dang proud of it and also because I'm a bit of a slut (if you've not seen the thread yet check it out, all the entries have been posted and they're all  )quote:
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Mar 28, 2017 15:20
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Neurolimal posted:I imagine it's a case where you technically dont have to, and its technically not painting, but its something thats going to impress judges even if they know its not something that should be taken into account. Deino posted:According to a friend of mine who has competed in the Crystal Brush two times now, there are no official points awarded for conversion. The competition is supposed to be based strictly on one's painting ability, therefore many painters forego sculpting or heavily converting their own models and will usually have them custom commissioned to save them time and effort. In fact, you don't even need to be the painter to compete in the Crystal Brush. Some painters make several entries under their friends' names just to get more of their work under the spotlight. And much of the time, due to the popular vote aspect of judging (asking several thousand mostly 40k players to put forth their opinion on professional-level paint jobs) if you aren't painting a space marine, you've already given yourself a handicap.
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Mar 28, 2017 15:45
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On the bright side, think of the cool vibrant neon gradients you can get with the smooth 'n round SM armor 
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Mar 28, 2017 15:54
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ijyt posted:Cross-posting my vow for Skullapalooza 2017 because I'm pretty dang proud of it and also because I'm a bit of a slut (if you've not seen the thread yet check it out, all the entries have been posted and they're all This guy's so fuckin tight.
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Mar 28, 2017 21:00
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We interrupt your regularly scheduled broadcast for something out of the ordinary: Heavy Gear stuffs. I kickstarted the new Heavy gear Blitz plastic models last year, and finally got around to taking pictures of my little plastic robots: My Northern force. I tried to mimic the Finnish 'cucumber salad' forest camo with these dudes - basically I just sprayed them a light green, painted on splotches of darker green and brown, washed them with a muddy shade of green and drybrushed them with a muted green highlight. They turned out pretty well, in my opinion.  Northern 'Hunter' basic trooper Gears. The sculpts are okay for their price, I feel, though not quite as detailed as I might've hoped. Still, much easier to work with than pewter and resin.  'Jaguar' advanced trooper Gears. I keep mixing these dudes up with the Hunters, they're only just slightly sleeker and taller.  Two 'Cheetah' scout gears and an older 'Ferret' scout design, the EWF specialists in my force. I love the Ferret design, it's so goofy - it's got a bigass wheel sticking out of its rear end that it uses in conjunction with the rollers on tis feet to basically turn itself into an armored scout bike.  Two 'Grizzly' fire support Gears. Northern designs tend to be either lightly armored, nimble speed freaks or enormous plodding slabs of armor and guns; the Grizzly design is very much in the latter camp.  Last but not least, the 'Kodiak' heavy fire support Gear. This thing is basically a Grizzly on steroids, packing an extra anti-tank missile launcher in the box mounted on its back and an advanced particle cannon - it was designed to engage terran hovertanks one-on-one and come out on top.
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Mar 28, 2017 21:48
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I've always loved that the mechs in Heavy Gear are on roller-skates (or roller treads).
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Mar 28, 2017 22:26
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Ilor posted:I've always loved that the mechs in Heavy Gear are on roller-skates (or roller treads). Yeah, and some of the speedster factions have vectored thrust modules for hover. The NuCoal equivalent of the Ferret is less a Gear and more a low-altitude missile.
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Mar 28, 2017 22:27
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Can someone post some pictures of what baseline 3 color "tabletop standard" looks like for games that judge by those metrics?
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Mar 29, 2017 00:43
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I, uh, would pretty much consider the Gears up there my 'tabletop standard' but I'm aware I place the bar somewhat higher than some.
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Mar 29, 2017 01:19
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Due to the "new can" effect my Scourge battlecruiser got a much heavier coating of glosscote than I expected and is now too shiny. Can I get it to "less shiny, but still shiny" by doing a coat of dullcote and then a lighter coat of glosscote again?
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Mar 29, 2017 06:58
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You could but that's still going to be a lot of layers of varnish that might start distorting the detail
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Mar 29, 2017 07:29
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SRM posted:This guy's so fuckin tight. Thanks! I've never really converted much so I've been having fun doing it with my Iron Warriors. vvv: Aaw shucks 
ijyt fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Mar 29, 2017 |
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Mar 29, 2017 08:38
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ijyt posted:Thanks! I've never really converted much so I've been having fun doing it with my Iron Warriors. It's easily one of my favorite conversions. Combined with your painting it's top notch stuff.
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Mar 29, 2017 09:52
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 WIP of a flamethrower nazi. I was really intimidated by doing flame, but it turned out pretty dope.
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Mar 29, 2017 11:17
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I see that you cleave to the Moola School of "delicious-looking bases." Well done, sir!
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Mar 29, 2017 11:42
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Neurolimal posted:On the bright side, think of the cool vibrant neon gradients you can get with the smooth 'n round SM armor I don't have any but I might get a forgeworld one sometime as they look like neat one-off display models. I did find my forgeworld stash though and now I remember why I put them all away: seeing a sea of grey plastic makes me not be able to decide what to spend several hours painting. I got this nice "Renegade Ogryn with DKK Victim" that would probably look nice with bruised purple skin and orange, rusty gears though.
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Mar 29, 2017 15:12
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Big Willy Style posted:You could but that's still going to be a lot of layers of varnish that might start distorting the detail Eh it's not that bad, I'll just leave it.
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Mar 29, 2017 15:44
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 00:21 |
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I know the 40K Imperial Assassin had a painted version in one of the official 2E books - but I don't have them easily available. If anybody has a photo/scan could they post it please? Google Images is only returning the recent repaint and I need the original for next month's oath challenge!
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Mar 29, 2017 16:53
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