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Usually there are one or two good sentences of engrish, but every single one on that label is golden. THE ACCIDENT TROUBLE.
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Jan 5, 2010 13:44
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 15:26 |
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on the subject of metal burning tools, does anyone know if i need to use PTFE tape on a sievert torch? it's parallel threaded connectors so i would assume not, but i find it best not to assume things when you're dealing with 6kg of pressurised propane
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Jan 5, 2010 19:00
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Stanko-Prussian posted:on the subject of metal burning tools, does anyone know if i need to use PTFE tape on a sievert torch? it's parallel threaded connectors so i would assume not, but i find it best not to assume things when you're dealing with 6kg of pressurised propane Absolutely NO tape. Test for leaks after making connections by using water with a little bit of liquid soap in it, that includes the regulator connection and valve packing on the cylinder valve. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 5, 2010 19:49
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dv6speed posted:Absolutely NO tape. Test for leaks after making connections by using water with a little bit of liquid soap in it, that includes the regulator connection and valve packing on the cylinder valve. awesome, thankyou very much
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Jan 5, 2010 20:03
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Two projects on the go today. Fired up the forge and made a rose. First one in a year or so I think. Good thing to warm up with. It didn't turn out too bad, either.   The real reason I dragged my carcass outside today is because it was nice. And I need to punch some serious holes in some serious metal. First though, I need a nice big drift to shape the holes. This is 1" 1045 polished and ground steel I got for fairly cheap some time ago. I've meant to cut some of it and taper it down for a while now, but I didn't need it before today.  Cut, tapered.  Ground down a bit.  Time to punch some fuckin holes. Remember this rectangular punch I made like a year and a half ago out of a cheap-as-hell chisel? Made for a situation just like this.  Get out the biggest hammer you've got because these holes aren't going to open up on their own. (I should buy a sledge / make a treadle hammer.)  One bent to shape.  Two bent to shape.  Man it was nice out today. Sun didn't set until just after 5.  Hmm, haven't done any heavy smithing in about 8 months, let's see how those calluses held up...   I'm going to have a massive blister on my index and middle fingers too, but they seemed to go down after a while. Maybe I'll get lucky. loving skin 
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Jan 10, 2010 03:40
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The rose has been in the vinegar since I pulled it out of the forge.  The petals cracked a little, and opened up some more in the acid bath. Not much to be done about that except be more careful next time.  All in all, it turned out pretty well considering I haven't made anything in ages.
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Jan 24, 2010 04:04
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^^I would say so. So, I doubt many people here have worked with Harbison Walker's Versaflow 60 Plus before, but hey, you never know! I need to cast a 1/2" hotface using above material over ceramic wool insulation for the crucible furnace I'm about to build. (Yes, it's finally happening after 1.5 years.) I'm deciding whether it should be cast separately, or in place over the kaowool in the furnace. I'm leaning towards casting it in place. I'm leery to do this however, as when this was done on my friend's forge (used mizzou in that case), we had problems with getting the refractory to ram down all the way between the inner form and the Inswool (we didn't find out till it was too late, the refractory cured, and the inner form was pulled). However, I think part of the problem was due to how the Inswool was stuffed in, which may not have left enough space in some spots for the refractory to fill the cavity by ramming properly. I'm thinking if care is taken with the Inswool lining, and proper sizing of inner form, it won't be an issue. Discuss.
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Jan 24, 2010 06:31
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Hey, what do you figure these anvils are worth? Guy on local craigslist wants $125 each. Picture sucks cocks but it's the only one provided. You can sort of judge size with it anyway.
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Jan 25, 2010 20:00
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They look pretty worn. How much do they weigh?
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Jan 25, 2010 20:13
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Those are very worn. $125 for all 3 sounds more appropriate, unless they are very heavy (over 150 lbs each) Honestly, I woulnd't pay a dime more then what a scrap yard would give you for them, because that's really all they are worth. Are you looking to use them, or sell them to make a profit? The latter is a bad idea, the former would be OK. They are old, but based on the shape, and the fact they have both a hardy and pritchel hole, I doubt they are old enough to be of "historic" value, if you will.
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Jan 26, 2010 00:27
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Thought I might get one to use if it was a decent deal. I guess they aren't though. No idea how much they weigh, my guesstimate based on my 45 olympic plates is somewhere around 100lbs.
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Jan 26, 2010 02:54
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ChaoticSeven posted:Thought I might get one to use if it was a decent deal. Call up dude-man and ask if you can see them in person. Find out how much it weighs, and offer him only a small premium, if any, above scrap value, and explain to him why. (The reasons we mentioned above.)
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Jan 26, 2010 03:09
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My family owns a scrapyard so I actually know the average price offhand. Seven cents a pound for short iron. Everyone around here thinks that an anvil is almost literally worth it's weight in platinum though, so I don't think he'll take 7 bucks for it. I'll just wait until I get the time to make a forge and get my waste oil burner set up and look around again.
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Jan 26, 2010 08:17
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if you can find a 12-18 inch long chunk of 5-6" hot rolled round in the scrap yard, you can use that as an anvil. Even a shorter piece would be fine if you can find a square piece to go with it. Won't be as good as a hardened steel surface but it'll do the same job for a whole lot less money. I wish I had a scrap yard to dig around in and pull stuff out of 
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Jan 26, 2010 08:45
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If you can locate some railroad track, that will work too. What style of waste oil burner are you planning on building BTW?
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Jan 26, 2010 15:15
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My blacksmith buddy saw your anvil post, and said the bottom one was a "vulcan" and is actually worth $125 by itself. The other 2 are worth only scrap value.
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Jan 27, 2010 04:35
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dv6speed posted:My blacksmith buddy saw your anvil post, and said the bottom one was a "vulcan" and is actually worth $125 by itself. What's so special about vulcan anvils? Do they live long and make you prosper or something?
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Jan 27, 2010 05:00
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Slung Blade posted:What's so special about vulcan anvils?
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Jan 27, 2010 05:02
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If the face and horn are in good shape I usually shoot for 75 cents to 1 dollar a pound. That is if they are in good shape. If not I go for scrap value and don't let anyone push me beyond 25 cents a pound. A good machine shop and use a hard filler rod to clean up the best of those three and mill a fresh face on it, not the best optio, but a good one. Luck to you,
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Jan 31, 2010 22:07
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Now that is really weird. This space in my garage used to be empty... but now it has something in it... WHAT THE gently caress COULD IT BE? Oh, that's right, it's a South Bend metal lathe from 1945 that happened to find it's way in my garage.  OK... find is a little bit exaggerated. I had to get a buddy with a pickup truck to take me about 1.5 hours out of my way and give a man $400. I found this man and his lathe via craigslist. Old men have the best tools! This man has a wonderful chain hoist that made loading this lathe in the truck easy as pie. I really wish I had one of those here. A huge block of wood, a total of 4 men, 2 large pry bars, and an engine hoist got the job done for unloading, without damage to toes, fingers, or much more importantly, the machine! So anyway this thing is one solid piece of machinery. If it wasn't for the fact it's 3 phase, I could be making chips as we speak. I will look into getting a phase converter. This lathe will also be getting a complete tear down and full restoration. She will be a beauty when I'm all finished. I'll make a thread posting details about it's restoration for the interested. Fun fact. This is actually a student lathe. I don't believe this was used by any students (it doesn't show abuse), but holy cow, this lathe is built like a brick poo poo house. The carriage and the tailstock are just simply huge. I'll get a dial indicator on spindle and chuck as soon as my buddy brings it over here. I'm a very happy man. And yes, I have the door for the motor housing. I took it off for safe transit, and didn't put it back on yet. Another fun fact: The old man purchased this lathe from the Danbury Mint about 15+ years ago. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Feb 2, 2010 |
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Feb 2, 2010 05:46
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Thats the lathe I learned on! Theyre pretty simple/easy to service since theyre belt drive and all. The oiling system on the front spindle bearing is like a candle wick, make sure its decent and has oil. Pretty sure you can get repro parts for the whole thing if need be. The spindle thread that was on ours at school wasnt particularly uncommon either, though i cant recall what it was. Congrats. ...uhh...wheres the motor, belt and lower pulleys?
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Feb 2, 2010 06:13
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RealKyleH posted:...uhh...wheres the motor, belt and lower pulleys? In the stand, lower left. It's there, trust me. I've seen it  He did hook it up and turn her on. Edit: He has a very large milling machine that I got my eye on. He is moving to Florida eventually. It's a large enough machine, I would have to hire a company to move it to for me. If I don't have the funds for it by the time he moves, I'm begging the grandmother for money! AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Feb 2, 2010 |
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Feb 2, 2010 06:19
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Well, I unbolted the 3 phase motor, and discovered that my 110v single phase, 1/2 HP motor will be a perfect bolt on fit, even down to the shaft location and dimensions. It'll be a little underpowered, and I won't be able to use the electrical reverse switch, but it's a start. Now, I gotta figure out how to properly lubricate this thing, and take apart the carriage.
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Feb 2, 2010 20:14
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dv6speed posted:Now, I gotta figure out how to properly lubricate this thing, and take apart the carriage. Take all the rubber bits off, dip it in a vat of kerosene, light it on fire to get all the crud off it, then spray everything in gear oil. Congrats on the lathe, by the way. I know we've been talking over aim about it, but that is seriously a great deal. I need a workshop for my house, and since even a poll-barn type building with no concrete would cost around 16-20k to have it built, I'm seriously considering something like this:  http://www.sheds.com/vmurryhill.htm It's a pretty sweet looking 14' x 31' steel shed coated in vinyl. I can get them for around 4 grand, and it doesn't need any concrete for a foundation (which is good, because I just want gravel for a floor). I'm currently looking for a local supplier, but I'm curious if any of you guys have seen a shed like this or know anyone with an Arrow product. Thoughts?
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Feb 2, 2010 22:18
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Yay for the internet: http://home.roadrunner.com/~rcbattelle/lathe.html This is a 13"x40"... I have a 13"x20", but everything is built the same. These south bend lathes are really well documented. As far as the building goes, it's better then nothing!
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Feb 2, 2010 22:41
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I am so jealous of the lathe. I have been looking online for them recently. Unfortunately, the kind of lathe I need is one that has a relatively long bed, maybe in the range of 48+ inches so I can make trumpet bells. I don't really have a good place to store one since my parent's garage has a car my dad is rebuilding and other stuff in it, and I live in a basement apartment across town. I love lathing. There is something really satisfying about taking a big rod and making a smaller rod out of it, and maybe adding threads or a hole to it.
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Feb 3, 2010 01:41
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If you get yourself a lathe that long, you may as well learn how to make rifle barrels! I also plan to make/buy a milling attachment. With a 13" swing, I should be able to do a good amount of milling work on this lathe in addition to lathing. In learning about lubricating this lathe, I'm learning there's alot I don't know about lubrication.
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Feb 3, 2010 01:52
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Lathes are pretty awesome. Lubrication is cool, use Way oil on the ways, grease the gears in the carriage, and whatever the gently caress kind of oil for the spindle. P.S. Rifling tools are hard as hell to come by and if you aren't pro at broaching you will gently caress up several barrels. Also, you need a gun drill to bore them out because you will snap any drill under .500" that goes into steel for more than 12". Maybe a long rear end carbide boring bar, but then chattering will gently caress your finish. P.P.S. It's called turning on a lathe, milling on a milling machine. Pet Peeve. EDIT: Motor Oil and Bearing grease will get you off the ground, but don't use it forever. Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 01:59
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Brekelefuw posted:I am so jealous of the lathe. I have been looking online for them recently. Unfortunately, the kind of lathe I need is one that has a relatively long bed, maybe in the range of 48+ inches so I can make trumpet bells. If you aren't aware you can do a lot more than that with a lathe its just a pain compared to a mill. You can drill accurate hole locations and square a block and mill round pockets on square pieces with some math. Probably to do so accurately you'd need a datum that was a hole and its a hell of a lot easier with a mill but in a 4 jaw chuck you have the same 3 axis of movement, just over a shorter distance and for much smaller parts potentially. Also milling on a lathe is generally pretty lovely because of a lack of rigidity. You'd prob be better off with a used HF mill.
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Feb 3, 2010 02:53
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Aren't Trumpet bells shaped anyway and not turned?
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Feb 3, 2010 02:59
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Random Number posted:Aren't Trumpet bells shaped anyway and not turned? Trumpet bells are hand hammered on a mandrel/anvil and then once the rough shape is there, they are placed on a lathe and burnished to the nice round shape they end up as. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRyUt4LC5Zs Here they make two-piece bells and one piece bells. The product ends up looking the same, but two-piece involves brazing the two parts together, instead of just brazing the seam of the brass before turning it. No rifle stuff for me. Don't care for guns in the least.
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Feb 3, 2010 05:13
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I am feeling very down right now and thought I would share my pain with those who can understand. Someone broke into my garage either last night or the night before and made off with: Band saw (metal cutting, 4" clearance, 36" total length) air compressor (1 gallon air frame air compressor) scroll saw mig welder yellow handled axe 1/2 hp plunge router With the exception of the axe which was a standard fiberglass chopping variety the other tools were nice and while of Chinese manufacture (princess auto specifically) they were quite serviceable. I am very sad. At least they left my 50 amp stick welder, wood lathe, metal lathe, and kiln, as all of those are nice old high grade tools (and probably too heavy for two thieves to move on there own).
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Feb 4, 2010 01:53
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Sorry to hear that, got the serial numbers? Make sure to make the pawn shop rounds, keep an eye on craigslist and ebay.
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Feb 4, 2010 03:35
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RealKyleH posted:Sorry to hear that, got the serial numbers? Make sure to make the pawn shop rounds, keep an eye on craigslist and ebay. They were all generic power fist Chinese items, I'm not sure if they even have individual serial numbers or just generic skus. I will keep my eyes open just in case, but I am attributing this to complete loss and just hoping insurance will not have too crazy a deductible.
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Feb 4, 2010 04:19
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Sorry to hear your loss.  Tool thiefs are the worst. This reminds me, I want to look into getting some intrusion detection for my garage. Intrusion detection is all I need... I'll take care of the rest with my Mossberg 590.
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Feb 4, 2010 05:42
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Lathe news: I got the 1/2 horse motor bolted on the machine. The capacitor in the motor died and it won't start by itself. Don't ask me how I got it started. ((Wrap a strap around the cone pulley and start it like a lawn mower!) Don't do what I do.) So now that I had a suitable oil in the spindle bearing reservoirs, and a turning motor, I wanted to see if the bearings would heat up. My nifty Fluke infrared thermometer is perfect for this. The bearing closest to the chuck seemed to be fine. Unfortunately the other bearing is not so lucky. It's temperature started to steadily increase and I pulled the plug once it got just above 100 degrees F. Either the bearing clearance is too tight (not likely) or it's not getting adequate lubrication (very likely.) The spindle will have to get removed from the headstock so the bearings and lubrication system can be serviced and inspected. Since the spindle/headstock are going to require disassembly, I won't be running the lathe till it's fully restored. I'm not going to take apart the headstock twice! Besides... I need a new motor anyway, cuz that's not the safest way to start a machine! Also, I have decided the machine will be kept in the basement. Better climate control down there. I need to dissemble the machine to get it in the basement, so that will coincide with the complete teardown for restoration. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Feb 4, 2010 |
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Feb 4, 2010 05:52
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Linux Assassin posted:They were all generic power fist Chinese items, I'm not sure if they even have individual serial numbers or just generic skus. I will keep my eyes open just in case, but I am attributing this to complete loss and just hoping insurance will not have too crazy a deductible. Call around to local pawn shops give them a description of the items. Just in case.
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Feb 4, 2010 12:45
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dv6speed posted:Lathe news: I demand pictures of the restoration/servicing.
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Feb 4, 2010 13:30
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Brekelefuw posted:I demand pictures of the restoration/servicing. (I plan to make a thread about the whole lathe... A camera would speed up that process.)
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Feb 4, 2010 16:53
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Measured the bearing clearances. The right bearing is in at 0.0035". Removing a 0.002" shim should tighten that up perfectly to within specs. The left bearing (one overheating) has a clearance of 0.0015". This is within the South Bend specifications of 0.001"-0.002". So, we definitely have a lubrication issue going on.
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Feb 4, 2010 20:06
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