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Well that's a shame.
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Sep 27, 2017 00:44
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Can you post a pic of your personal copy for context?
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Sep 27, 2017 07:04
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Kerro posted:Unfortunately it's not just the leading in the glass (which does show up reasonably clearly with the masks - see: http://www.culttvmanshop.com/assets/images/aztekdummy/adnaut03.jpg) but the fact that the window is made up of tons of tiny panes of fairly thick styrene. We tested visibility just with the windows unpainted and you still really can't see very well at all. has it had the obligatory floor wax job? i still have old bottles of Johnsons Klear which i keep for windows and satin gloss jobs, but i believe you can still get future floor wax?
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Sep 27, 2017 08:29
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I haven't but I don't think it would help an enormous amount. Here's our copies of the windows - unfortunately we'd already masked them so you can't see how clear they are, but the fact that each of those little tiny black stickers is a separate window, each of which is on a slightly different angle is enough to substantially distort and minimise any vision through into the cabin even if they were crystal clear. I wish there was a way to keep the original windows and improve vision but I just don't see it happening. I spent some time building an alternate window frame, a bit more carefully this time around and I'm liking how it looks. It's definitely nowhere near as cool as the original but will allow a really clear view into the cabin, and I think once the whole thing is treated with the rust effects paint that I'm intending to use I think it will actually blend in really well with the rest of the model. Worst case scenario I can always retrofit the original windows if I modify them slightly.  The only other option I could see would be if I could very carefully remove just the middle-outer octagonal section of the original windows and replace just that with a flat panel, but I'm not sure how to cut clear styrene like that without it cracking.
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Sep 27, 2017 08:46
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It might be a bit tricky now you've put those masks on but I'd have tried plunge moulding a new window using the injection moulded one as the template. I did that once for a much simpler aircraft canopy and it worked quite well, don't know how all that framing might gently caress it up though.
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Sep 27, 2017 12:09
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I think it loses a lot of character with just a flat window, but to be quite honest, if I owned a submarine with a big window, I'd rather it be like that (but also really drat thick). I want to see what's out there... 20,000 leagues under the sea.
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Sep 27, 2017 12:15
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Would it be at all possible to use the kit window (it really does keep the character of the sub) but maybe rig up some kind of mounting system with some tiny magnets to make it easily removable? I can't really tell if there's much of a lip inside the opening that the window attaches to or what, but I think with a couple very small magnets, you might be able to get it to where you can leave the kit window on during display but just pop the whole thing off for showing off the internals.
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Sep 27, 2017 13:40
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I can understand you want to show off all that internal detail you put so much effort into. But the model will be seen and admired as a whole, and it looks better as a whole with the intricate glasswork in place. Maybe make the glass removable if you really want to be able to show off the internals?
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Sep 27, 2017 16:24
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You gotta use the proper window, all nicely brassy or what ever. The light will guide the eye to look inside. And that's just a thing with N scale interiors, they are hard to "show off" without things being contrived or cut-away. If you could make the window removable to better peep inside that sounds like the perfect solution.
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Sep 27, 2017 23:05
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Yeah I think you're right that I should keep the original window. It does just look amazing so any replacement will be really lacking by comparison. I guess there's no real saving the cabin without, as you say, having something rather contrived. I guess one nice thing about the original window is that it does kinda invite curiosity about the interior and trying to view it from different angles to try and see what all is going on in there. Oh well, back to solving how to mount the LED lights.
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Sep 27, 2017 23:37
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Could you maybe fabricate a little hinge so you could at least flip the window open if anyone wants to take a peek? Or even easier, just don't glue it. Press fit should hold it enough until you want to remove it from time to time.
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Sep 28, 2017 00:19
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Edit. NM you explained it.
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Sep 28, 2017 00:47
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If anyone is interested in the TankArt books I mentioned previously, Rinaldi is doing a $10 discount on the reprint of TankArt 4. https://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/product-page/tankart-4-german-armor-pre-order
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Sep 28, 2017 05:14
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If anyone is interested in the TankArt books I mentioned previously, Rinaldi is doing a $10 discount on the reprint of TankArt 4. Just ordered it myself too. The books look great, but make my own models look even worse. 
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Sep 28, 2017 15:05
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ayyy, I just got the Rinaldi mech book in the post as well as a mech type thing 
Paragon8 fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 17:58
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Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions on window options. I think I'll end up sticking with the kit window and just accept that the cabin will be a bit less visible. I'm not really keen on the idea of opening/popping it out from time to time as I want it to stand alone as a static diorama so happy enough to just do that I think. Not much progress on the Nautilus itself as I've turned my attention for now to the electronics. Since these can't be altered once the hull is glued together (which is pretty much the next step) I want to make sure that all works first. I intend to have 8 internal LEDs and 12 overhead LEDs to create a blue/rippled lighting. Since I don't trust my circuit design skills one bit even just for an LED array I wanted to test it out first before putting the LEDs actually in place so that's what I've done. Thankfully it worked first time as my diagnosis skills are even worse than my design skills, so now I can move onto something I feel more confident about - constricting the hull and mounting the internal lights. I expect this next stage of the build should come together fairly quickly. 
Kerro fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Sep 29, 2017 |
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Sep 29, 2017 00:03
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Tokyo's annual model expo looks good as usual. I snapped to attention like a dog spying a squirrel in a early picture, because it looks like a 1/350 scale kit of a WW1 Zeppelin.
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Sep 29, 2017 15:43
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Wow! Look at all those awesome 1/32 offerings. 
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Sep 29, 2017 17:01
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1:32 is an extremely weird scale. Why can't aircraft people see that 1:35 is the one true scale?
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Sep 29, 2017 18:09
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Ensign Expendable posted:1:32 is an extremely weird scale. Why can't aircraft people see that 1:35 is the one true scale? box scale 4 lyfe
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Sep 29, 2017 19:23
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Ensign Expendable posted:1:32 is an extremely weird scale. Why can't aircraft people see that 1:35 is the one true scale? Here, here! On a similar note Mr. Speaker, can the train people get with the program and adopt 1/72 and 1/144 for HO and N scale?
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Sep 29, 2017 19:31
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all models should be 1:35 regardless of practicality god knows it'd make the planking on the uss West Virginia im building less of a pain
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Sep 29, 2017 20:15
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Truth be told, I don't care what 1/3x scale is better, I just wish they'd standardize. Having things be juuuuuuuust a hair off when next to each other sucks.Raskolnikov38 posted:all models should be 1:35 regardless of practicality Yes, clocking in at roughly 19.5 feet, a 1/35 USS West Virginia would be pushing the limits of practicality.
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Sep 29, 2017 20:20
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I for one am looking forward to Napoleonic wargaming in 1:35th scale.
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Sep 29, 2017 20:23
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Nebakenezzer posted:Tokyo's annual model expo looks good as usual. I snapped to attention like a dog spying a squirrel in a early picture, because it looks like a 1/350 scale kit of a WW1 Zeppelin. Ooo, where's this? Not seeing it. It'd be, what, two feet long?
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Sep 29, 2017 23:40
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Unkempt posted:Ooo, where's this? Not seeing it. It'd be, what, two feet long? Lol, maybe. It's early on, behind a giant 1/72 Concorde / EC-3 Sentry. e: 
Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Sep 29, 2017 |
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Sep 29, 2017 23:46
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I can't wait for 3d printing to get good so we can just buy kits at any scale. Imagine being able to just type in the scale you want within a certain range appropriate for the detail level of the kit. gently caress all these 1:148 kits, now they're 1:160 like they should be.
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Sep 29, 2017 23:56
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Nebakenezzer posted:Lol, maybe. It's early on, behind a giant 1/72 Concorde / EC-3 Sentry. Oh there it is. It might be this 720th one? https://hlj.com/product/MKM72005
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Sep 30, 2017 02:02
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3D printing is already that good, the only issue is cost really. And cost is not going to come down for a long, long time, because the quality 3D printers are in the hands of 3D printing companies, and they have no reason to bring down costs currently.
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Sep 30, 2017 02:03
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Raskolnikov38 posted:all models should be 1:35 regardless of practicality It would be less of a pain because you could just use full size tools and regular wood from Home Depot!
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Sep 30, 2017 06:57
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Baronjutter posted:I can't wait for 3d printing to get good so we can just buy kits at any scale. Imagine being able to just type in the scale you want within a certain range appropriate for the detail level of the kit. I know there's a lot of HO and N scale parts on Shapeways, have guys started 3D printing aftermarket parts for aircraft/auto kits in 1:72 or 1:48?
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Sep 30, 2017 23:42
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On the topic of tools I was at the Leipzig Scale Model and Hobby Expo today and got me this little thing. It's a mini lathe 20 cms long that is modular and can be rebuilt into a jigsaw, rotary sander and drill press.
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Sep 30, 2017 23:47
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Greyhawk posted:On the topic of tools I was at the Leipzig Scale Model and Hobby Expo today and got me this little thing. It's a mini lathe 20 cms long that is modular and can be rebuilt into a jigsaw, rotary sander and drill press. Looks awesome, I was looking for ways to get a lathe in an apartment. What's the model number and how much was it?
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Oct 1, 2017 01:09
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If you're looking for smaller bench tools for apartment/condo use, Proxxon has a wide selection of stuff too.
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Oct 1, 2017 01:23
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Awesome stuff, thanks!
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Oct 1, 2017 02:13
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Greyhawk posted:On the topic of tools I was at the Leipzig Scale Model and Hobby Expo today and got me this little thing. It's a mini lathe 20 cms long that is modular and can be rebuilt into a jigsaw, rotary sander and drill press. I've heard mixed reports on those modular Unimats. Some guys (in the model shipbuilding world) love them, and others say that due to the modular design, they can be very difficult to get set up to be super precise like a Sherline mill or lathe. On the flip side, they are certainly a lot cheaper than buying a Sherline lathe & mill plus a drill press and rotary sander! I am also interested in how much those are running (cost) these days. On Proxxon - I had a Proxxon lathe for a while before I got my Sherline, and it worked fine, but it's definitely not in the same class as the Sherline, even if the quality was the same, the number of accessories available for the Sherline make it a much more flexible (and much more expensive) tool.
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Oct 1, 2017 02:54
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Review Time! Seeing as I have a need to keep buying modelling "stuff" and ever increasing the size of my collection of tools, I recently bought the Paasche H. While firmly within the group of "good" airbrushes, it's the lowest of the low end. Single action, cheap plastic for half the body, it's definitely no Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck. What it is though is one of the most widely used airbrushes in the world, and a legend within the movie effects industry. It painted the Predator, the Xenomorph, the Terminator, and countless others. Easy to use, quick to clean, it was the perfect tool in an industry where speed is as much of a factor as artistry. Still widely used today in the effects industry where artists are given even less time to create the meager amount of practical effects called for, it's a workhorse. So less out of need and more out of curiosity, I picked one up. What I found is a surprisingly capable airbrush that gives many dual-action airbrushes costing hundreds more a run for their money. My very first thought when opening the box was "... man, this this smells oily." I broke it down and gave it a thorough cleaning cause it was fairly grimy, at least compared to the pristine standards most more expensive airbrushes arrive in. I also found that one of the needles had a small loose metal bur in it's outlet hole. Quickly cleared away, but it definitely speaks to the lowest cost standards these airbrushes are probably manufactured in. I even saw a youtube vid of another buyer who found a long vinyl fiber stuck between the needle and nozzle when he unboxed his. You're not going to find the little slip of paper with various test spray patterns in the box for this brush, these things are likely quickly forged, assembled, and dumped in a box as is. I've sprayed some test patterns and some stippling, and despite this brushes humble offerings, it still paints wonderfully. Smooth output, good handling, a breeze to use because of it's single-action nature. You can't really get down to the sub-10psi pressures like more expensive brushes, as this brush uses a suction feed, rather than gravity feed, to draw paint, but it still shines as low as about 14psi. Anything lower and it starts to spatter, which can be useful for different effects depending on your subject. Paint flow is regulated by the aircap, which you twist to open or close before you start spraying. Sort of like an early version of the dial-stops you see on the ends of more modern airbrushes. And what is probably my favorite part of this brush, it is the simplest brush to clean after use, bar none. There are really only three pieces to clean after use, the needle, the aircap, and the color cup. All disassemble in seconds, and the chunky nature of the parts means you can clean them in no time. If you put your mind to it, I bet you could do your end of day breakdown and clean in less than a minute, it's that simple. I splurged and got the H202S package, which included all three needle sizes, some bottles, a hose, a color cup, as well as an upgraded aluminum rear body.That last part is especially welcome, as the cheap plastic rear body on the base model likely won't last long if exposed to harsher chemicals and lacquers. It's also a bit heavier, which balances out the airbrush a bit better. This is a heavy brush, and almost all of that weight is in the front end, so a little back end weight to balance it helps out. You can get the base model with one needle size for as little as $30 if you look around though, so it's not going to set you back much at all if you want to try one out. You could use it as a "burner" brush, for putting your harsher paints through, lacquers and metallics, varnishes and topcoats, but it would still serve you well as primary brush as well. There are some definite caveats to the brush, but if you can deal with those, you can get an excellent airbrush for little more than the cost of a meal out for two. I'm definitely going to mess around with this airbrush a lot more in the future, it's really fun to use and maintenance is practically nil. 
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Oct 1, 2017 04:27
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Boomer The Cannon posted:I know there's a lot of HO and N scale parts on Shapeways, have guys started 3D printing aftermarket parts for aircraft/auto kits in 1:72 or 1:48? I've seen detail kits for that Zvezda star destroyer on Shapeways, though that's a little outside the bounds of your question.
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Oct 1, 2017 05:19
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Turns out the Eastern Express BT turret bustle is way off the required dimensions. I can add some sheet plastic to it, but there's a problem with that. The back of the bustle has a hatch, which I was going to leave open to display the interior... I guess I'll have to put the interior in the Zvezda BT.
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Oct 1, 2017 05:36
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Boomer The Cannon posted:I know there's a lot of HO and N scale parts on Shapeways, have guys started 3D printing aftermarket parts for aircraft/auto kits in 1:72 or 1:48? I think very specific kits sometimes get "fixes" on Shapeways by hobbyists. I'm mostly focussed on Sci-fi so can't really speak to aircraft/auto but it's a lot of like oh here's a round millenium falcon dish to replace the TFA square one etc. aftermarket resin stuff seems mature enough that I'm not sure how much space there is for 3D printing unless it operated on a sort of piracy model. I think the print costs would be prohibitive compared to like a resin seat or missile kit.
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Oct 1, 2017 10:32
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