|
BIG HEADLINE posted:It's only the 1TB+ NVMe drives that are still commanding premiums, if you can settle for a 500GB boot drive, they're affordable. There'll also eventually be 22110 M.2 drives that might make higher capacities possible while making existing capacities cheaper since there'll be more space on the very small PCB to use larger/cheaper NAND. I'm using a 250 GB as my boot drive right now so I I'll probably go with a 500 GB boot drive & replace my HDD with a WD Blue then. My other two SSDs are running great but I'm a sucker for even faster boot and loading times.
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 21:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 00:45 |
|
|
If you could choose between the two at $100-110, would you get an ASUS Strix R9 380 4GB or a Zotac 1050ti mini? The 380 seems faster, but it's also older and out of warranty. But it could probably OC better as well. I've got something like a 600W PSU that's less than a year old at this point, so power draw isn't a problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 21:26
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:If you could choose between the two at $100-110, would you get an ASUS Strix R9 380 4GB or a Zotac 1050ti mini? The 380 seems faster, but it's also older and out of warranty. But it could probably OC better as well. I feel a little crazy asking this, but what does an R9-290 cost around you? Said 4 year old GPU would be a better option than either of those, and in any sane world should cost about the same.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 21:28
|
|
|
There's an XFX black edition 290 asking $150, but I was hoping to avoid going that high. I play at 1080p and (I promise I'm not trying to start a fight) can't consciously tell the difference between 30 and 60fps. Maybe I could talk him down to $120?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
Does anyone here have experience selling older PCs? I was considering holding off on a graphics card upgrade until next year, but my 960 WINDFORCE is 20 feet long and is killing any plans for a sexy mini build. It'd be easier to swallow throwing down for a 1080 if I could sell my old machine except I, like many others here, have been running just fine on a 5-year old i5. Huge mix of old and new(ish) parts. I'm thinking I can throw my entire rig (Sandy Bridge (?) i5, 16gb RAM, 960, newer power supply, newer 128gb SSD) up for a modest price of like $230~, advertised as "your SO can play Overwatch with you and it'll last a couple years". Do potential buyers for rigs like this exist? The entire thing will just collect dust otherwise..
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 21:39
|
|
|
Massdrop is going to be doing another drop of the Gigabyte Aorus 1080Ti: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-extreme-11g $679.99 - but you have to wait for it. "Limited Quantities Available," and the drop is not live yet. AORUS cards carry a four year warranty to the usual three found on other cards with registration, even though Gigabyte's support isn't known for being stellar. Aorus items evidently get ~speshul support~, though. EDIT: This might have already happened and ended. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Aug 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 21:40
|
|
|
Are buying Windows 10 cd-keys for ~$30 legit? Reeks of piracy to me but it was linked on a reputable site.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 00:28
|
|
|
FooF posted:Are buying Windows 10 cd-keys for ~$30 legit? Reeks of piracy to me but it was linked on a reputable site. SCDKey looks shady, but everyone I've heard of using it says the keys activate without issue. And Kinguin offers 'insurance' for a non-insane upcharge.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 00:41
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:SCDKey looks shady, but everyone I've heard of using it says the keys activate without issue. And Kinguin offers 'insurance' for a non-insane upcharge. Kinguin was the site in question. If it works, it works. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't shady.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 00:46
|
|
|
FooF posted:Kinguin was the site in question. If it works, it works. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't shady. There's also this potential route: https://www.howtogeek.com/266072/you-can-still-get-windows-10-for-free-with-a-windows-7-8-or-8.1-key/ People have also had success in activating Win 7 keys by calling Microsoft Support directly and having them verify the validity of it and then green light it for Win 10.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 00:52
|
|
|
So got everything in the case, go for first prime up. Lights come on (case, motherboard "tracks" light on GPU), things look good, but nothing on the screen. No bios. Mobo EZ debug LED says CPU not detected or fail. -Took the plastic out of the holder that protects the socket on the mobo -at the moment I do not assume any pins were bent due to the ease of it going in -triple checked to make sure it was going in the correct way -did not touch any surfaces with my fingers -liberal thermal paste was applied -I took the plastic off the heat sink -heat sink went on with out issue as far as I could tell -I had to disconnect the mobo to get the CPU cord in because I do not have dainty hands, that looks in and firm -no visual issues with pins not matching up -all power connections appear to be in correct placement and in firm (GPU etc) -motherboard was sold as a combo with the CPU so they are compatible I am checking the front panel plug ins again as I type this, but initial x2 looks seemed correct hagie fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Aug 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 04:06
|
|
|
possibly too much thermal paste or your CPU cooler isn't totally seated? Last time I had hangups with installing a CPU that's what it was for me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 07:31
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:SCDKey looks shady, but everyone I've heard of using it says the keys activate without issue. And Kinguin offers 'insurance' for a non-insane upcharge. Is there something similar for Office? I'm guessing no, but I would also have guessed there weren't legit $30 Windows keys out there either. E: Me dumb, just checked and Kinguin has it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 09:31
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there something similar for Office? I'm guessing no, but I would also have guessed there weren't legit $30 Windows keys out there either. https://www.scdkey.com/office2016-professional-plus-cd-key-global_1530-20.html (entering SKdealnews22 should take $7.40 off of this - just confirmed it works) SKPRO supposedly takes 10% off Windows 10 Pro, and SCD carries both Retail and OEM keys. The promo code is only usable on the OEM key, but get this, the codes are stackable at checkout. You can snag Win 10 Pro OEM + Office 2016 Pro Plus for $38.48. Office 2016 Home & Student is $19.47 after promo code SKTechbargains. I do want to say that I'd have more peace of mind going through Kinguin, since they offer anti-scam insurance. Evidently the promo code GAMERANDOMIZER will knock 10% off your Kinguin order. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Aug 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 09:58
|
|
|
BIG HEADLINE posted:https://www.scdkey.com/office2016-professional-plus-cd-key-global_1530-20.html (entering SKdealnews22 should take $7.40 off of this - just confirmed it works) Quick question, does it matter where I buy a Windows Pro or Office Key from when I'm in Germany? I've looked into OEM keys here, but my first try (with an Amazon-licensed seller, no less) yielded a 'blocked' key, and - upon bugging the seller - a second key that was blocked server-side by the company it was originally licensed for. So while I'm now somewhat disillusioned regarding OEM keys, I've still not entirely given up on the concept, nor am I quite ready to shell out 120 Euroubles for a Windows 10 Home license. Can anyone recommend the Windows 10 deals from SCDKey or Kinguin (or could recommend either over the other)? /edit: I'm seeing Windows 10 Pro keys for 26 Euros on Kinguin plus 5 Euros for their buyer protection, I'd be perfectly happy with that if it's legit /another edit: As an ancillary question, would I need to reinstall windows WITH the new product key? If I recall correctly, I've always gone with a bootable USB stick straight from the Microsoft page, installed, and then entered a key after the installation. Is it enough to just use the "change product key" in the settings? Duzzy Funlop fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Aug 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 11:28
|
|
|
stump collector posted:possibly too much thermal paste or your CPU cooler isn't totally seated? Last time I had hangups with installing a CPU that's what it was for me. Looks like I had a surprise autocorrect on there and "literal rice grain" turned into liberal some how. I really did not use much of the paste
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 13:05
|
|
|
I really only check in on this thread around upgrade time, but I've got to say I really appreciate the work that goes into maintaining the guides. I've used them for my last 2-3 builds and they've lasted me quite a while. My current PC was built based on the old "sweet spot" specs, and with the exception of a GPU change, has been able to handle everything up to BF1 after 6 years of constant use. That said, if there is going to be a new example builds list, it would be great if that sweet spot balance between cost and utility could be included.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 15:39
|
|
|
The fact that those keyseller sites even need to offer paid insurance against dodgy sales tells you how reputable some of their sellers are. If you're looking for cheaper Win 10 keys, go check the SA mart threads. There is a seller with good feedback in there. (Check my recent post history)
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 17:01
|
|
|
Deanut Pancer posted:The fact that those keyseller sites even need to offer paid insurance against dodgy sales tells you how reputable some of their sellers are. So these Windows 7 keys work via the free-upgrade-deal that Microsoft never cancelled, or what's the deal there? I'm looking to get a Windows 10 Pro license on the fresh install I just did two days ago on a brand new system.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 17:53
|
|
|
Duzzy Funlop posted:So these Windows 7 keys work via the free-upgrade-deal that Microsoft never cancelled, or what's the deal there? Microsoft never ended the Free upgrade deal people who need to use the accessibility options in windows. It doesn't actually check if you use those things though so they just never ended the free upgrade. They just hid it a little bit. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 18:20
|
|
|
Duzzy Funlop posted:As an ancillary question, would I need to reinstall windows WITH the new product key? If I recall correctly, I've always gone with a bootable USB stick straight from the Microsoft page, installed, and then entered a key after the installation. Is it enough to just use the "change product key" in the settings? I need to know this as well, I'm still waiting for an answer to that question in that SA-Mart thread  .
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 18:24
|
|
|
My PC has been having some random power issues. The other night, it started trying to turn itself on over and over again, which was kind of terrifying. Now, it just won't turn on at all, and I'm pretty certain the power supply has gone bad. It's a Thermaltake model that they don't seem to make anymore: Thermaltake Toughpower TPD-0550M I was hoping somebody who knows a little more about PC building could recommend me a replacement power supply. I don't mind shelling out a little bit of extra money for a reliable brand, but I don't think I'll be upgrading my video card or anything any time soon, so I don't need to go crazy. This is my current build (created with a lot of help from an earlier thread): PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: ASRock - H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($227.58 @ OutletPC) Memory: Mushkin - ECO2 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($112.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.64 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card Case: Antec - One ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.94 @ Amazon) Monitor: Asus - VS24AH-P 24.0" 1920x1200 Monitor ($216.99 @ SuperBiiz) Keyboard: Microsoft - Keyboard 200 Wired Standard Keyboard Total: $763.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-19 13:35 EDT-0400 Thanks guys!
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
silencekit posted:My PC has been having some random power issues. The other night, it started trying to turn itself on over and over again, which was kind of terrifying. Now, it just won't turn on at all, and I'm pretty certain the power supply has gone bad. It's a Thermaltake model that they don't seem to make anymore: Thermaltake Toughpower TPD-0550M The Rosewill Capstone 650 Modular is a decent price on amazon right now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00822BTLC/ Also good FSP Group 650: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5LX0UU/ Seasonic 650: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R7V48d/seasonic-power-supply-ssr650rm Otherwise I'd look at one of these but definitely cross-reference what you're buying with some quality reviews like from jonnyguru: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=Search
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 19:28
|
|
|
Trip report with Kenguin (NextKeys seller, had the highest positive scores and no negative feedback): got the keys immediately but my parts are still en route. It's literally a photo of the product sticker key. I got a Win 10 Pro, 2012 Office, and some anti-virus thing which I won't use for ~$43 (this included the $5 insurance). I mean, they can redistribute the same photo I guess but it's not a piece of paper emailed to you. I'll give a try when I build. Edit: drat, if I had checked SA-mart I would have went with that guy. Cheaper and far less risk, probably. P.S. This is what I settled on: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.65 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($82.75 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($122.90 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($127.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card ($241.43 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master - N400 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.34 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.99 @ B&H) Total: $888.55 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-19 15:29 EDT-0400 It sucks but my state has shipping centers for both Newegg and Amazon, thus, I'm paying state tax (9.74%) on everything. A few prices jumped yesterday, like my RAM was only 111 and I had rebates on my PSU and Mobo. My final build (including OS and Office), after rebates, was $894: just under my $900 budget. If I didn't have to pay taxes, I would have went with a 6GB 1060. 
FooF fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 20:20
|
|
|
Hello. I'm going to be putting together a server or servers in a few months for a couple of purposes and boy could I use some advice (UK market). The old part picker doesn't really cater to servers. I need two purposes served. First is a highly parallel astrophysics simulation that I'll be coding myself, so whether that's x86 or CUDA or OpenCL I'm flexible about. The second is more garden variety x86_64 service virtualisation, probably docker on top of smartos or similar running web apps and DBs for me business. To be honest every time I read Intel's product lineup for coprocessors and high-core Xeons and such I black out and immediately forget all the codenames and the specific form factors. I don't need much disk space as I have a hefty NAS available and I'd like to go rackmount since I have a cabinet with space in it. The main thing I'm after is rundowns or pointers on (co)processor system architectures and ranges, particularly with Intel's 8th gen coming out shortly. Budget is flexible, but I'd like to get good bang for buck, I don't need the absolute biggest and newest just for the sake of it. I'll probably post again later asking about cases, cooling, RAM and such things where the devil's in the details once I know the broad approach I'm going for.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 20:53
|
|
|
FooF posted:It sucks but my state has shipping centers for both Newegg and Amazon, thus, I'm paying state tax (9.74%) on everything. Check B&H when you buy computer parts. They are only in NY so you don't get that bullshit 10% sales tax (out of state) and their prices are usually reasonable. They will occasionally price match as well but ymmv.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 21:21
|
|
|
havenwaters posted:Microsoft never ended the Free upgrade deal people who need to use the accessibility options in windows. It doesn't actually check if you use those things though so they just never ended the free upgrade. They just hid it a little bit. You don't even need to do an in-place upgrade. I can confirm that as of a week ago you can still install Windows 10 from an official image and just punch in a $5 Windows 7 key from eBay and it'll permanently activated.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 21:32
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:I feel a little crazy asking this, but what does an R9-290 cost around you? Said 4 year old GPU would be a better option than either of those, and in any sane world should cost about the same. Going back to this, the one asking $150 must already have been sold, and the rest are all asking $200. Are there any other cards I should be looking at that would seem not worth it because of their numbers? Are there any good sites for refurb/open box cards? Amazon/Newegg/Microcenter all still seem to have higher prices, maybe the bitcoin bubble is still in effect some places?
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 22:10
|
|
|
I want to upgrade my system. I want to spend around $400. Current specs: i7-2600k @ 4.2 GHz Z77 motherboard 32 GB DDR3-1600 1 TB SATA3 SSD + RAID-5 array for bulk storage RX 480 8GB Primary monitor is a 4k 40" Samsung I have two main concerns: 1. The motherboard is slowly dying. I'm being forced to slowly lower my overclock over time (-100 MHz every few months now) in order to keep the system stable. USB ports are starting to act up. 3.5mm audio connectors are getting loose. Etc etc. 2. I would like to be able to play most/all games at 4K on at least high. The RX 480 can play older games at 4K on high or ultra (Diablo III) but on newer games (Mankind Divided, Battlefield 1, etc) I have to either play at 1080p on Ultra or 4K on medium. What's the best I can do with $400? I suppose I can get a new motherboard and CPU (either Ryzen 1700X or the upcoming Coffee Lake 6-core), but 16 or 32 GB of DDR4 is astronomically expensive right now. CPU+motherboard+RAM will easily take me over $400. With respect to getting a new graphics card, miners have driven up prices to ridiculous levels, so a GTX 1080 is more expensive now than it was a year ago. And it doesn't seem that a GTX 1080 can reliably do 60 fps at 4k. The GTX 1080 Ti seems to be out of my budget. Lastly, I can keep waiting and save up more in the meantime. Is the DDR4 shortage/graphics card shortage going to get better any time soon?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 00:12
|
|
|
sincx posted:I want to upgrade my system. I want to spend around $400. I would only suggest an upgrade to a Ryzen 5 1600 based on the wear and tear and decaying performance of your system. Those parts will sit you right at $400: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KdWKRG Some games like Battlefield 1 that take greater advantage of Ryzen should see a noticeable performance boost, while other games will be a wash. Graphics card prices no one can predict but it doesn't look good, RAM prices will probably not go down for the foreseeable future. I would hang on to the RX 480 for now. Your assessment of gaming at 4k is pretty spot on - it's just not affordable right now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 00:38
|
|
|
sincx posted:I want to upgrade my system. I want to spend around $400. We don't have pricing yet for the Coffee Lakes, but it's pretty safe to say they'll probably cost a touch more than the current Kaby Lake i5s and i7s simply because you can fit less viable six-core dies on a wafer than you can four-core dies (considering both are 14nm processes), so that's a built-in yield issue for Intel. There's an artificial ceiling in place in the sense that I'm pretty sure Intel knows it can't charge what they currently want for a 7800X Sky-X, which is also a 6C/12T processor currently retailing for $395 (MSRP $389), albeit one mated to the way more expensive X299 chipset. I'd *guess* that they're going to try and launch the 8700K at $349 because it's a number that enthusiasts seem to like. nVidia chose the $329-349 pricing bracket for a reason with the 970 and it sold like gangbusters. The 6C/6T i5 is anyone's guess. I can't see them pricing it at $249 because then no one will buy the 8350K @ ~$199. Again, my *guess* for the i5-8600 will be ~$279-289, simply because charging $299 creates a "why wouldn't you spend $50 more" situation. Round numbers are everything when pricing tech. +$50 is way more attractive than +$70, because ~reasons~. As for the DDR4 shortage - the DRAM makers have stated that "they're working on it," but at the same time, they're profiting *immensely* as a result of the shortage right now. RAM prices were completely in the shitter this time last year and they're recouping a lot of lost profit at the moment, which completely removes their incentive to actually move their asses to increase output. GPUs are just straight up *hosed*. There's a GDDR5 shortage since the PS4 Pro and upcoming XBox One X use 8 and 12GB of GDDR5 respectively, and both consoles are going to be on *a lot* of Christmas lists this year. Memory makers *love* consoles because unlike DIMMs, it's one central vendor they're supplying chips to, making AIB card makers like ASUS, EVGA, MSI, and Gigabyte take a backseat. Add that together with the buttcoin mining craze and you've got the single worst climate for personal GPU buying *ever*. TL;DR: It's gonna be another few months before DRAM supply will appreciably affect the pricing. Until then, your best bet is being eagle-eyed for promo codes. GPU prices are going to remain hosed for quite some time unless someone tanks BTC and ETH, and even then, every cratering of BTC has been followed up *eventually* by a resumed rise to insane sale pricing. Short of ASICs getting better, I think GPU pricing is going to stay permafucked for a long time. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Aug 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 00:54
|
|
|
2666 should still be the RAM max for the Z370, right? I still can't tell when the 3xxx figures are with or without overclocking.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 01:24
|
|
|
quote:GPU prices are going to remain hosed for quite some time unless someone tanks BTC and ETH, Goon project?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 01:26
|
|
|
ufarn posted:2666 should still be the RAM max for the Z370, right? I still can't tell when the 3xxx figures are with or without overclocking. 2666 will be the max for the H370 and lower. Z370 will be able to use higher-rated DIMMs in the 3000-4000Mhz+ range.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 01:34
|
|
|
Ah, I see. I never understood what the limit was about, cheers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 01:36
|
|
|
ufarn posted:Ah, I see. I never understood what the limit was about, cheers. No problem - just be conscious that if/when you're purchasing RAM that clocks in higher than ~3200Mhz (specifically the 3866Mhz+ modules), you really want to consult the motherboard's QVL sheet (they all have these available on their respective support pages) indicating which vendors and which DIMMs at which capacities have been green-lit to work without issues. That being said, the ultra-high-speed modules are really the purview of the ~hobby overclocker~ crowd (since you generally start to hit diminishing returns around 3200-3400Mhz) and I don't care if they've got *lifetime warranties* - good luck finagling 4000Mhz+ DDR4 modules out of Corsair or G.Skill in 4-5 years' time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 01:40
|
|
|
Not sure if this would be the right thread but, I am looking for recommendations for a high res scanner that has a large scanning window. At least a foot wide by a foot and a half long, but bigger would probably be better.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 05:07
|
|
|
Johnny Aztec posted:Not sure if this would be the right thread but, I am looking for recommendations for a high res scanner that has a large scanning window. Pretty much anything with a window larger than legal size is going to count as a wide-format scanner, and a decent one of those will run you north of $1-2k. Not sure what your budget is.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 05:20
|
|
|
A Bag of Milk posted:I would only suggest an upgrade to a Ryzen 5 1600 based on the wear and tear and decaying performance of your system. Those parts will sit you right at $400: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KdWKRG Some games like Battlefield 1 that take greater advantage of Ryzen should see a noticeable performance boost, while other games will be a wash. BIG HEADLINE posted:We don't have pricing yet for the Coffee Lakes, but it's pretty safe to say they'll probably cost a touch more than the current Kaby Lake i5s and i7s simply because you can fit less viable six-core dies on a wafer than you can four-core dies (considering both are 14nm processes), so that's a built-in yield issue for Intel. There's an artificial ceiling in place in the sense that I'm pretty sure Intel knows it can't charge what they currently want for a 7800X Sky-X, which is also a 6C/12T processor currently retailing for $395 (MSRP $389), albeit one mated to the way more expensive X299 chipset. Thanks for the answers everyone. I really appreciate your help. Looks like the best thing to do right now might be to wait and see how long my current system can last while hoping DDR4 prices come down. I supposed if my motherboard suddenly dies, I'll put the $400 towards a Ryzen or Coffee Lake system. One reason I rather go for Coffee Lake is that Ryzen doesn't seem to have motherboard support for RAID-5. I supposed I could switch to Windows RAID-5 instead of the Intel motherboard RAID-5, but that a lot of data to move around.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 06:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 00:45 |
|
|
SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:split the difference and get a 1050ti Cheers It's only primarily being used for 3D cad and some low level gaming (dota, PUBG, dawn of war 3) while I save to build my new gaming rig. I figure a 1050ti would've done the job  The downside is I've had to move up on building this rig a lot quicker than planned due to my current rig becoming significantly less usable with Win10
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 13:53
|
|
