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Wow, makes me glad to see I'm building a third gen legacy as a daily driver. And at the risk of sounding like a huge rear end in a top hat, I want those tail lights for my car...
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Jul 21, 2012 04:17
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Terrible Robot posted:if there is a noticeable thunk/jerking in the drive-line the center-differential is probably hosed (I didn't drive mine long enough to notice this until I got it home Ours just started clunking a bit on hard right turns, 1500 miles or so after we got it. The dealer we bought it from told us he just put a new transmission in (it's really a transmission shop with a small used car dealership as a side company), guess it's time to give them a ring...
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Jul 21, 2012 04:47
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), and that means transmission replacement.
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The dead stock 2000 Legacy GT popped the radiator today between the plastic tank and the core. I'm seeing options ranging from OEM list at $317, OEM mail order at like $230, auto parts store generic at about $140, or ebay at $70 shipped. Is this another of those cases where generic ebay parts are crap or are they a valid option?
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Jul 21, 2012 05:02
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Faerunner posted:Ours just started clunking a bit on hard right turns, 1500 miles or so after we got it. The dealer we bought it from told us he just put a new transmission in (it's really a transmission shop with a small used car dealership as a side company), guess it's time to give them a ring... If it's only doing it in one direction it may just be a front CV-axle, which is much, much cheaper to fix. edit for clarification: When I say a noticeable thunk/jerk, I mean that the entire car will shake and lurch with the noise, and you may even notice that the front or rear wheels lock up for a second each time this happens. It is horribly disconcerting. Also, the torque-bind only becomes noticeable after the car has been driven around for a while, so if it does the clunk all the time even when cold it's probably just an axle. Also also, it is pretty drat loud. Everytime I'd pull into a parking space at the apartments, the people that have nothing better to do but sit outside literally all day and stare at other tenants would look up from their cigarettes to laugh at my hosed up car  .
Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jul 21, 2012 |
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Jul 21, 2012 05:33
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Oh. Well, maybe it's just the axle after all then (Though I think he said he replaced those too... I should call him anyhow just to see if he can't forward me the work order for my records, if there WAS one anyhow) as it's just a barely noticeable clunk at nearly full lock
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Jul 21, 2012 06:04
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If the axles have also been replaced recently than my only other guess is a bad tie-rod.
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Jul 21, 2012 06:21
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Sorry for double post. Last week I got a new-to-me transmission which has 90k miles on it installed. Since then I've noticed that the shifting is kinda stiff and notchy, sometimes flat-out refusing to go into gear unless I put it in neutral, let the clutch out and try again or just force it which I don't like doing. I've heard that Subie manuals can be really picky about the kind of fluid used, and I'm thinking the shop just threw in whatever kind of 75w90 they had lying around. There's a shitload of talk on all the Subaru forums about using Redline Shockproof Lightweight (smurfblood), or a 50/50 mix of this and Motul synthetic. Other people swear by Subaru's Extra S gear oil. Wondering if any one here has used any of these and their experience with them. I'm really hoping that a fluid change will sort out this problem and that I didn't get a transmission that was driven by a ham-fisted shithead.
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Jul 22, 2012 14:35
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Terrible Robot posted:Other people swear by Subaru's Extra S gear oil. You should probably use this. Keep it simple and OEM versus gambling further on a cocktail.
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Jul 22, 2012 14:48
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Ordered a set of gently used 4/2 pots off NASIOC, going to swap them onto my 04 WRX. I know I need to buy the Kartboy rear brake adapters, but what about shims and clips and all that stuff?
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Jul 22, 2012 19:21
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I'm trying to figure out if the WRX has been the best selling Japanese performance car in America in the past decade. Does anybody know if this is true, or does that crown go to the S2000, Z, G, RX8 or IS?
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Jul 22, 2012 21:20
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Hey guys, the info you are all giving out to folks like me is GOLD. I'd really appreciate some input on my problem. My 2003 automatic transmission Forester has what I believe is torque bind. At full lock in either direction the whole car shudders. Installing front-wheel drive fuse stops the problem completely. Googling tells me to either: * Flush the transmission and add some type of friction modifier * Replace the tranfer duty solenoid * Replace the clutch pack in the centre diff I'll be flushing the trans in the near future however I'd like some advice from anyone that's successfully fixed the problem or has some advice.
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Jul 23, 2012 03:21
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I don't know poo poo about Subarus, but you should definitely not add any kind of "friction modifier" unless the manufacturer specifies it.
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Jul 23, 2012 03:27
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If the FWD fuse stops the problem, than yeah it's a drat good bet you have torque-bind. I know with the 5 speeds you cannot just replace the center-diff unless you find someone selling a known good unit since Subaru refuses to sell the part seperately  . I'm not sure if the same is true with the 4EAT, since it uses a completely different system to split the power.Do not add friction modifier to it. I cannot stress this enough. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 03:29
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Yeah, do not add friction modifier. At worst, flush the transmission and replace the fluid and filter with Subaru OEM stuff. I'm not experienced with the automatic transmission but the transfer duty solenoid seems like a pretty common replacement on cars of that age. The solenoid regulates the transfer clutch position so I'd replace that before thinking about tinkering with the clutches themselves.
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Jul 23, 2012 05:02
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In doing some cursory glances, it would appear that a good first step is to replace the transmission fluid in the 4EAT. If that doesn't do it, check the duty solenoid, and finally the center diff itself.
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Jul 23, 2012 05:40
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THANKYOU! I almost didn't ask here so it's lucky I did. Friction modifier (I don't even know what that is) was going to be first on my shopping list. There's SO MUCH I love about the car except for that damned torque bind. I'll update with results if anyone is interested.
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Jul 23, 2012 05:46
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My new tires come today, I can finally start driving the WRX regularly after they're on tomorrow morning.  Long story short, I discovered two days after I bought the car that what I thought was a need for front alignment turned out to be a broken belt on the front-passenger tire. My life being as busy as it is, and having another car in working condition and a short commute, it kind of got put on the back-burner. I guess I'm lucky the car was only driven below 45mph and the tire didn't fall apart. I decided not to make a stink about it considering the price I got on the car and that they threw in the factory wheels/tires. I could have mounted those in the meanwhile, but as both sets are at the wear-bar, I figured I may as well just invest in new ones right now as opposed to when it starts to snow. Very eager to get back in the car, I was just at the point where I wasn't stalling it at lights anymore too. I (fortunately) didn't even get a chance to take it on the freeway Once those are on it, it's time for its timing belt kit soon, and it has to go in for its control arm recall. babies havin rabies fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 17:48
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Hey gang, I'm new to this forum/thread but I wanted to check in and get your opinion. I've been in the market for a new car for a month now and finally got around to test-driving the 2012 Impreza Hatchback yesterday. I absolutely loved it and am totally sold on getting one. I enjoy driving, but I'm not enough of an enthusiast to justify the WRX or anything. The price doesn't seem too bad for a new car, but I want to make sure I find the 'sweet spot' of new/used pricing. I've heard that the older Imprezas have a head gasket issue around 100k miles...is there a year range I should avoid? I know the 2012s are in a new generation...is it worth sticking around for the 2013s, and does anyone know when those might be out? Are any of the older models significantly better & worth getting used instead?
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Jul 23, 2012 18:19
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Terrible Robot posted:Sorry for double post. I'll throw my two cents in and recommend the Extra-S. It is expensive but worth it. I have an anecdote: My '94 Turbo Legacy 5-speed was really notchy and had a poor synchro on fourth that would grind badly whenever I downshifted from 5th to 4th. Couldn't select first unless I was at a dead stop, and overall it just felt really bad. I drained the name-brand synthetic gear oil that the PO had put in less than 20k ago and replaced it with Extra-S shortly after buying the car, and it shifts like a new transmission now! No more grind even under the quickest of quick downshifts, it's smooth and buttery into every gear and I can easily make it select 1st gear at speeds exceeding 15mph, although I have only done so to test. This transmission went from the poorest shifting Subaru 5-speed I have ever driven to the best Subaru 5-speed I have ever driven in half an hour of work. Added to that, so far it has withstood several full 18psi 1st gear launches with all 4 tires spinning. I don't know if I can thank the Extra-S for that, but I'm sure it can't hurt to keep the gear loads evenly distributed and well lubricated.
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Jul 23, 2012 18:20
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure that Extra-S is leprechaun blood at this point. It's so worth the cost.
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Jul 23, 2012 18:34
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Anyone know which Yakima landing pad is right for my 08 Impreza? Their finder thing sold me the landing pad 11, which is a single screw, but mine are 2 screws. Either that or I'm looking at it wrong. Anyone know?
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Jul 23, 2012 20:08
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Would anyone be interested in a group buy of extra-s? The cans are 20l, and I need to change my fluid, so there would only need to be 4 other people (or 9, 14, etc). I need to go to the dealership and see what my cost is but I could probably do it for less than the $15/qt fred beans charges.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:34
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jamal posted:Would anyone be interested in a group buy of extra-s? The cans are 20l, and I need to change my fluid, so there would only need to be 4 other people (or 9, 14, etc). I need to go to the dealership and see what my cost is but I could probably do it for less than the $15/qt fred beans charges. Im in, as long as you can mail it of course.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:42
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FYI, our local Subaru club tried to throw together an Extra-S group buy through both Boston Motorsports and 42 Autosports and failed both times to get something that was cheaper than just individual purchases. Then again, we were shipping it to Canada which is unpleasant. I still have to put in my Extra-S that I got from Boston.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:46
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Yeah, you can, as long as it's packaged well. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/postal-letter.php
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Jul 23, 2012 20:46
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I'd be in as I can pick mine up in Michigan.
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Jul 23, 2012 20:56
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I'd be down for getting some extra-s but seeing as I'm from Canada I doubt it'll be worth it for me. But I do have a Subaru question that hopefully someone knows the answer to. I bought a 2010 Impreza WRX roll over and I'm going to be using the motor for a swap, from the accident the drivers side of the car got pretty beat up and the fuse box and wiring on that side got irreparably damaged. I've already bought a replacement for the fuse box but I can't seem to find the plugs that go from the body/dash harness to the fuse box. I'm talking about the fuse box that sits in front of the drivers side strut tower in the engine bay, not the one behind the dash. Does anyone know where I can find someone who sells these plugs or if any other Subaru uses the same plugs? Only thing I've been able to find is full harnesses for $too-much$ and I'd rather not buy a whole harness if the rest of the wiring I have is intact. I was thinking of posting a thread on the swap once I gather all the parts I need and I'm ready to drop the new motor in. It's going into a 03 Baja, what do you guys think?
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Jul 23, 2012 21:27
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Well, its happening. I've started buying the bits and pieces and will upgrade the turbo to a Blouch Dominator 2.5 XTR (Polka Pickle) by mid August assuming that certain back-ordered things get here by then. I'll post some pics when it is all done (and before it gets stolen and wrapped around a lamppost). The plan is to convert the existing side-feed fuel system to top feed, replace the fuel pump, delete TGVs, upgrade to large injectors, add the turbo, new intercooler and a few other miscellaneous bolt-ons in the hopes of reaching 350+whp/wtq. This should be attainable on 93 based on other folks' dyno plots that I've seen. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 21:34
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What kind of oil filters do you guys like to use? I've been using Wix for a long time, just curious on the consensus "best" around here.
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Jul 23, 2012 21:57
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War Bunny posted:What kind of oil filters do you guys like to use? I've been using Wix for a long time, just curious on the consensus "best" around here.
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Jul 23, 2012 21:59
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War Bunny posted:What kind of oil filters do you guys like to use? I've been using Wix for a long time, just curious on the consensus "best" around here. I just use normal purolators on the race car. But, I also change the oil after every event.
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Jul 23, 2012 22:02
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jamal posted:Would anyone be interested in a group buy of extra-s? The cans are 20l, and I need to change my fluid, so there would only need to be 4 other people (or 9, 14, etc). I need to go to the dealership and see what my cost is but I could probably do it for less than the $15/qt fred beans charges. I'd be interested assuming it was under $75 shipped (my maths for an individual purchase of 5l)
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Jul 23, 2012 22:26
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Napa Golds are cheap and are supposed to be the same as the Subaru OEM filters except much cheaper. I believe they are actually rebadged Purolators which jamal has recommended before. I've read that elsewhere, as well. I use NAPA gold. But that's more of a lazy factor that napa is 6 miles from my house than anything else.
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Jul 23, 2012 22:33
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War Bunny posted:What kind of oil filters do you guys like to use? I've been using Wix for a long time, just curious on the consensus "best" around here. The factory ones, as it seems to be difficult to find aftermarket filters with the correct bypass spring.
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Jul 23, 2012 23:09
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If any of you wankers are removing an exhaust from a WRX or STi from 2002-2007, PM me. I'd like one at a goon deal versus picking through the weeds of the NASIOC forums. One of you must be upgrading sometime soon.
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Jul 24, 2012 00:02
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jamal posted:Would anyone be interested in a group buy of extra-s? The cans are 20l, and I need to change my fluid, so there would only need to be 4 other people (or 9, 14, etc). I need to go to the dealership and see what my cost is but I could probably do it for less than the $15/qt fred beans charges. I bought a 20l jug last summer from a Subaru dealer for around $130ish. I also picked up some nice chem safe liter bottles for around a buck a piece then had my wife help filling them one day. With labor and margin I can see how FB gets their 15$ price tag.
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Jul 24, 2012 00:19
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$130 is good. I was expecting to pay at least 150, which is what subarugenuineparts.com has it for. I'll have a total price by tomorrow or wed anyway.
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Jul 24, 2012 00:34
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Sockington posted:If any of you wankers are removing an exhaust from a WRX or STi from 2002-2007, PM me. Just get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-EXHAUST...079f4f3&vxp=mtr
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Jul 24, 2012 00:58
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Not a chance in hell.
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Jul 24, 2012 01:21
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It's metal bent into a cylinder. What's the issue?
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Jul 24, 2012 01:51
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