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Blue Footed Booby posted:Same. Too bad, yours is amazing.
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Nov 1, 2017 20:10
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Midjack posted:Too bad, yours is amazing. Aww, thanks 
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Nov 1, 2017 23:50
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Nebakenezzer posted:Well gentlemen, what's holding you back? If your plastic kit isn't 90% resin, metal, and putty by the time you're done, did you even really try?
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Nov 2, 2017 05:34
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Weird question: does anyone have a Kei car model kit they'd recommend? I know about scalemates but I'm green enough about kei cars in general that I wouldn't even know what to look for; all I know is that I want to make a neat stubby car  Ensign Expendable posted:If your plastic kit isn't 90% resin, metal, and putty by the time you're done, did you even really try? Us gunpla fans compensate for our lack of problems inherent to the kits by destroying our lungs with increasingly more toxic metal paints. I'm pretty sure I could qualify as a chemist at this point.
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Nov 2, 2017 14:11
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Neurolimal posted:Weird question: does anyone have a Kei car model kit they'd recommend? I know about scalemates but I'm green enough about kei cars in general that I wouldn't even know what to look for; all I know is that I want to make a neat stubby car ARII owner's club. 1/32 scale edit: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3148869&pagenumber=209&perpage=40#post456778712 Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Nov 2, 2017 |
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Nov 2, 2017 14:22
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Jonny Nox posted:ARII owner's club. 1/32 scale Those are perfect! Thanks 
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Nov 2, 2017 14:56
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The Southern California Gundam Model Competition is Saturday, for any LA area people interested in mecha.
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Nov 3, 2017 20:45
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Saw this pop up on my facebook feed. This guy's handpainting skills are amazing! https://www.facebook.com/kwwang0220/
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Nov 3, 2017 21:40
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SkunkDuster posted:Saw this pop up on my facebook feed. This guy's handpainting skills are amazing! Fukkkkkkkkk I've made that kit Not painted it like that, obv Also good news for people who like silly robots Guy Goodbody posted:I just want to make sure I've got everything straight
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Nov 3, 2017 22:45
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Is this the place where I can post about gundam robots? I've been watching tested videos they have done some gundams and it looks cool, so I want to do it too. I picked up this guy from amazon: I have some flush cutters and an x-acto knife. I have some emery boards that are 100/180. Is that good enough for sanding down nubs? Or should I go with a finer grit?
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Nov 4, 2017 02:48
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Cojawfee posted:Is this the place where I can post about gundam robots? I've been watching tested videos they have done some gundams and it looks cool, so I want to do it too. I picked up this guy from amazon: Come visit us in the gunpla thread. At least one person has built that one there.
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Nov 4, 2017 02:54
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I can't airbrush for another few months because of construction, so I got around to oiling up some figures I already based but never finished. Turns out I'm a bit out of practice. I should have a policy of painting at least one figure in between tanks.  
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Nov 6, 2017 05:00
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Ensign Expendable posted:I can't airbrush for another few months because of construction, so I got around to oiling up some figures I already based but never finished. Turns out I'm a bit out of practice. I should have a policy of painting at least one figure in between tanks. Man, that guy is not pleased with your work.
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Nov 6, 2017 12:07
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Got all the wall shelves filled in my little library. Now on to more furniture
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Nov 6, 2017 12:45
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Ensign Expendable posted:I can't airbrush for another few months because of construction, so I got around to oiling up some figures I already based but never finished. Turns out I'm a bit out of practice. I should have a policy of painting at least one figure in between tanks. Looking good. Honestly, before you put him in the turret, he looks like he's shivering and cold. Diorama idea: Broken down tank, first snows of winter, tanker standing around shivering waiting for the motor pool guys to come along.
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Nov 6, 2017 14:10
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He's supposed to go with a Tarawa Sherman, but in retrospect, the crew is way too warmly dressed for the Pacific. I guess I'll need another Sherman now, woe is me.
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Nov 6, 2017 20:20
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That Alien paint job is even more amazing because it seems to be a perfect replica of the real paint job
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Nov 6, 2017 21:49
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Wow! I didn't realize that was based on a real helicopter. Here is the story behind it if anybody is interested: http://airshowinfo.hu/en/blog_entry_0703.html
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Nov 6, 2017 22:54
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How do you guys go about sealing prior to weathering? I'm using MIG/AK panel line washes and filters with a gloss pre-coat. Right now I'm using Future but it takes quite a few coats to actually get "glossy". Am I doing it properly? Anyway I can reduce the number of coats to get a full gloss coat?
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Nov 6, 2017 22:59
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Yooper posted:How do you guys go about sealing prior to weathering? I'm using MIG/AK panel line washes and filters with a gloss pre-coat. Right now I'm using Future but it takes quite a few coats to actually get "glossy". I haven't really found a way. It requires several heavy coats to get glossy. I usually apply a tacky, thin layer, then hose it down with a heavy future coat after about 10-15 minutes. I've tried a lot of other clears on the market and haven't been very happy with any of them, but that could just be me.
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Nov 7, 2017 19:32
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Yooper posted:How do you guys go about sealing prior to weathering? I'm using MIG/AK panel line washes and filters with a gloss pre-coat. Right now I'm using Future but it takes quite a few coats to actually get "glossy". Some gloss coats (Tamiya clear, for example) get much glossier than Future in fewer coats. Future usually requires several coats and there's not a ton you can do to fix this. On the other hand, do you really need the coat to be that glossy? I find that even a single coating of future, though not smooth, is sufficient to protect the surface for weathering. you can then seal it with a final matte or semimatte coat.
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Nov 7, 2017 22:16
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Triggerhappypilot posted:Some gloss coats (Tamiya clear, for example) get much glossier than Future in fewer coats. Future usually requires several coats and there's not a ton you can do to fix this. Ideally it'd give that awesome capillary action where the wash is sucked into every nook and cranny. I seem to have better luck with a high-gloss than a lower one in that regard. Protection wise though yes, a single even coat seems to do it pretty well. I did one model with Vallejo Model Air paints and did my MIG weathering no problem. Then the next model I used MIG acrylics, no clear coat, and the MIG weathering products totally shredded the paint.
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Nov 8, 2017 00:39
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Nautilus progress: Display box nearly done. I won't bother posting pics until it's done in here since this is not the woodworking thread, but it's looking nice (and huge). We've been working on the base for the diorama. Holy crap, I should have anticipated this but it is taking a long-rear end time to do all the washing, drybrushing and detailing (and we've barely started putting in the larger plants, just the algae/rock-growths so far). That said, I'm pleased with how it's starting to look - a long way from the original tinfoil at this point! I'm glad I'm not trying to one-man this though given the time involved. Once the bulk of the base detailing is done then the end will well and truly be in sight.   
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Nov 8, 2017 09:19
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Scharnhorst issue 17 We begin working on the front deck structures and this is where this kit gets weirder than anything else I have seen in ship building. Usually one would put up some vertical walls and put a roof on top. Instead in this issue we get the roof and some vertical internal supports to build some kind of drunkenly dysfunctional carport, then will proceed to add horizontal panels over the next few weeks to build the whole thing up into a massive weighty blob of "What? Why would they...? This is weird."
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Nov 8, 2017 10:17
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Scharnhorst issue 17 We begin working on the front deck structures and this is where this kit gets weirder than anything else I have seen in ship building. Usually one would put up some vertical walls and put a roof on top. Instead in this issue we get the roof and some vertical internal supports to build some kind of drunkenly dysfunctional carport, then will proceed to add horizontal panels over the next few weeks to build the whole thing up into a massive weighty blob of "What? Why would they...? This is weird."
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Nov 8, 2017 10:17
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Can anyone point me in the direction of a moon/lunar surface pre-made diorama base? My google skills are leaving me a little lacking and only seem to be able to find apollo crafts or fucken ipad covers of the moon. I found a rock formation one that will suit but its a little small for what I want.
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Nov 9, 2017 07:46
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Wouldn't that be fairly easy to scratch build? Form your base, layer of celluclay/plaster, texture it, add some craters, spread some moon rocks, paint, drybrush, some pigments. Probably could knock it out in an afternoon or two.
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Nov 9, 2017 07:59
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Wouldn't that be fairly easy to scratch build? Form your base, layer of celluclay/plaster, texture it, add some craters, spread some moon rocks, paint, drybrush, some pigments. Probably could knock it out in an afternoon or two. I probably could, I was looking at some videos on it, I even thought about doing a wire frame and maybe paper-mache it, but styrofoam with plaster probably would be easier.
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Nov 9, 2017 08:04
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Def. There probably are some pre-made lunar bases out there, but a decent one would probably ask $60-$100, and you could scratch for a fraction of that. If you want something a bit stronger than styrofoam for the underlying base, but cheaper than balsa-foam, there's a cool product called Foamular that you can buy at many hardware stores. It's a high density foam that's perfect for base building. It doesn't have the carving quality of balsa-foam, so it's mainly for basic shaping and cutting, but it's way cheaper and much easier to find locally. https://www.homedepot.com/s/foamular?NCNI-5
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Nov 9, 2017 08:15
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Be sure to email NASA and ask what paint and pigments they used for their moon landing stage. Yooper posted:Ideally it'd give that awesome capillary action where the wash is sucked into every nook and cranny. I seem to have better luck with a high-gloss than a lower one in that regard. Protection wise though yes, a single even coat seems to do it pretty well. I did one model with Vallejo Model Air paints and did my MIG weathering no problem. Then the next model I used MIG acrylics, no clear coat, and the MIG weathering products totally shredded the paint. If you're ok with spraying lacquers, you should try Tamiya X-22 or Gunze Super Clear. I switched to X-22 after some microsol ate through the future I used to prep a model for decals. I usually do one light coat of X-22 thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner, followed by a heavier coat. I then mist pure leveling thinner over that gloss for an extra bit of shine.
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Nov 9, 2017 08:27
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Def. There probably are some pre-made lunar bases out there, but a decent one would probably ask $60-$100, and you could scratch for a fraction of that. That looks good but I can get a 1200 x 600 mm sheet of XPS board for about 20 bucks, I'll probably go with that.
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Nov 9, 2017 09:33
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Symetrique posted:If you're ok with spraying lacquers, you should try Tamiya X-22 or Gunze Super Clear. I switched to X-22 after some microsol ate through the future I used to prep a model for decals. I usually do one light coat of X-22 thinned with Mr Leveling Thinner, followed by a heavier coat. I then mist pure leveling thinner over that gloss for an extra bit of shine. The microsol just ate through the Future last night.  I'll give the leveling thinner a try, thanks! I assume it's compatible with any lacquer? I've got some of the new AK Real Color stuff on the way.
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Nov 9, 2017 13:40
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Yooper posted:I assume it's compatible with any lacquer? I've got some of the new AK Real Color stuff on the way. Should be. Give a review once you've had a chance to play with the Real Color stuff, eh? I'm curious to see how it works.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:26
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Symetrique posted:Be sure to email NASA and ask what paint and pigments they used for their moon landing stage. Where do you purchase your Gunze lacquers from? I've been getting them from Sprue Brothers, but they seem to run out of stock on popular paints and it takes forever for them to get them back in stock.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:50
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I just gave up on gunze completely and switched to tamiya, at least every hobby store has a shelf of tamiya paints
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Nov 9, 2017 16:20
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Raskolnikov38 posted:I just gave up on gunze completely and switched to tamiya, at least every hobby store has a shelf of tamiya paints I used to buy my Tamiya fast set glue from the local hobby shop. It always had 1/4" of dust on the bottle and a yellowed label. They were always half full too, I just assumed this was how Tamiya shipped them. Imagine my surprise when I ordered my last bottle from Amazon and the fucker was full to the top.
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Nov 9, 2017 16:51
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Yooper posted:The microsol just ate through the Future last night. Leveling thinner is basically magic. Works with Tamiya, Gunze Mr Color and Mr Color Aqueous, and I've even heard of people using it with to thin ammo/AK paints. SkunkDuster posted:Where do you purchase your Gunze lacquers from? I've been getting them from Sprue Brothers, but they seem to run out of stock on popular paints and it takes forever for them to get them back in stock. Hobbyworld-usa carries most of the Mr Color line along with the leveling thinner. They carry it for about the same price as Sprue Brothers, but with a flat rate shipping option. They have also have Mr Paint. You could also give the Volks USA Scale Model shop a try, they're the parent company of Zoukei-Mura. They have Mr Color for the cheapest I've seen ($2.60), but the shipping might get expensive. They also have Gaia Notes paint, and really cheap Tamiya masking tape ($1 for the 6mm refill). I've also had luck with various ebay vendors. I just received a bottle of Aqueous from a Taiwan based vendor. It surprisingly got here after just one week. If you're looking for some of the other Gunze products, like the weathering products, tools, airbrushes, or WWII paint sets, ordering from Japan is probably your best bet. Unrelated edit: WETA put out a video showing the miniatures they used for Blade Runner 2049 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLxxbfsj8IM Symetrique fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Nov 9, 2017 |
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Nov 9, 2017 17:05
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Powdered Toast Man posted:... Touch and Flow Applicator: https://www.micromark.com/Touch-N-Flow-Applicator Zip Kicker: https://www.micromark.com/search?keywords=ZIP%20KICKER
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Nov 10, 2017 02:32
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If I wanted to add a fabric texture to seats, do you think medical tape would work?
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Nov 10, 2017 02:53
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Not really. Medical tape shrinks and expands to conform to the curves of whatever it is covering. Worse, with glue on it it tends to turn into what is essentially a big lumpy mess. You'd be happier with some finely woven cotton sheet. Or linen if you want more texture.
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Nov 10, 2017 11:11
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