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daslog posted:Does Jamal sell Bushings? Jamal sells everything. 
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Sep 1, 2012 00:35
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daslog posted:Does Jamal sell Bushings? Yes. I was one of the first people to get a set of their lateral link/trailing arm bushings and organized a group buy of them.
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Sep 1, 2012 03:31
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You have a website or something?
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Sep 1, 2012 03:39
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Yeah sort of. You're better off just sending me an email though. peter at functionauto.com
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Sep 1, 2012 04:08
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Well I finally bought and installed an AccessPORT on my 2011 STi yesterday. I have the stage 1 91 v301 boost select map installed. Based on some mild canyon driving at no more than 75% throttle and 5k rpm in S mode, this thing is awesome. I did do one WOT run in 4th up to about 5k rpm. It is so much more smooth and powerful! And I haven't even tried S# yet, which is 1.2 bar instead of 1 for the boost target. I also haven't tried data logging, although I took jamal's advice from a page or so back about leaving it plugged in and at least getting slightly familiar with it. Also, I've heard alot of people have a hard time getting their cars started right after install/flash. I flashed the v300 map first, then updated the AP and installed v301 and had no trouble, fired right up both times. When I first plugged the AP into my computer I could not see any maps, so I called Cobb,and they said you have to install it before you can manage the maps on the AP manager, which is why I flashed twice. BUT THEN... Turning around in a dirt lot at about 4 mph or something very slow, I found a divot I hadn't noticed. Cracked my bumper cover in two places, snapped the left hand plastic support on the bottom, and generally gnared it up (the bumper cover). When I pulled it off the car, however, everything structural/metal looks totally fine, and none of the fender/headlight area connections look damaged. New unpainted bumper, tow hook cover, and that little brace: 270, 18, and 10 dollars respectively. Anyone have any idea what I can expect to pay the dealership collision center for paint? Not going through insurance for something this cheap/stupid. Anything else I should check? It also scraped up the cover on the bottom of the engine. I am assuming suspension/steering is fine since only plastics were damaged, I was going really slow, and it drove home just fine. 
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Sep 1, 2012 17:04
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Well I finally bought and installed an AccessPORT on my 2011 STi yesterday. I have the stage 1 91 v301 boost select map installed. What color?
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Sep 1, 2012 17:15
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Anyone have any idea what I can expect to pay the dealership collision center for paint? Not going through insurance for something this cheap/stupid. Anything else I should check? It also scraped up the cover on the bottom of the engine. I am assuming suspension/steering is fine since only plastics were damaged, I was going really slow, and it drove home just fine. If you don't mind having a slightly visible crack in the bumper, you could just plastic repair it: http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-Kwik-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346518279&sr=8-2&keywords=Plastic+Repair
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Sep 1, 2012 17:52
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Its dark grey metallic. I am sure I could get it done today, but I feel for whatever reason that the dealer collision center (which is located across town for some reason) will match it better since they will go by the paint code and probably have painted a few Subaru parts. The plastic repair is good to know about, I should have done that when I put the first crack in the bumper cover at autocross. I decided to live with that one, but this is way too gnarly. There are two cracks in the bottom now total, and one little kink/nearly a crack. And like I said, it was a gravel parking lot and the lip is all hosed up looking. I'm just going to fork over the cash for a shiny new one and keep this one for future autocross usage since it takes all of 30 mins to swap it out. The AP is great though! I drove without it for 1.2 years and 9800 miles, but I should have installed it right after break in like all you guys suggested. Off topic and over killed, now that motor warranty work is up to SOA (I plan on telling the truth if something goes wrong) I know that 5w40 oil is recommended by the people I listen to here the most. What about for winter duty? Keep the 5w30 for oct-march? I live in CO, and have 10 unopened quarts of Amsoil SSO 5w30 sitting in my garage.
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Sep 1, 2012 19:39
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So I've still got this problem I've been trying to figure out for a while now on an EJ25 with 175k miles on it. Basically I get an unnoticeable misfire on cylinders 1 and 2 while at high load (5th gear on the highway) and some very mysterious oil loss. It's losing a disturbing amount of oil, like at least a quart every 500 miles, but it doesn't seem to be going anywhere. It's not on the ground, I park in a garage over a piece of cardboard and there hasn't been a drop. It hasn't been burning it as far as I can tell either, no smoke from the tailpipe at all. So in searching for related issues that people have had with this engine people mentioned that the spark plug tube gaskets can go and leak oil right into the drat plug tubes since they go through the valve cover, messing with the spark and getting oil all over the wires. I pulled the plugs/wires to check and while there wasn't any oil on the wires themselves, the plugs in #1 and #2 looked like this:    Notice the nice oil ring on the ceramic, wasn't on the plugs from #3 and #4. So before I waste a bunch of time pulling valve covers, what do you guys think? It would be awesome to kill two birds with one stone here. Edit: Before someone asks, yes the headgaskets were replaced with the fixed versions at 90k miles on this engine and there is no mixing of oil/coolant on either side and the engine does not overheat. Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Sep 2, 2012 |
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Sep 2, 2012 03:12
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Its dark grey metallic. I am sure I could get it done today, but I feel for whatever reason that the dealer collision center (which is located across town for some reason) will match it better since they will go by the paint code and probably have painted a few Subaru parts. Don't use JB weld, it won't hold up. Mending plastic bumpers requires a lot of prep. Dark Gray metallic shouldn't be too bad. I'd guess they will want a couple hundred to fix it. On the oil, do you have some reason that the Subaru recommended spec won't work for you?
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Sep 2, 2012 13:26
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I already have prices for the parts just not the painting. As far as the oil goes, it seems like 5w40 is preferred but I wanted someone to weigh in on cold weather usage.
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Sep 2, 2012 16:10
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We just added a 2000 Fozzie to our family. 2.5 SOHC, 5MT with 116k miles on it. Since I have no first hand history on the maintenance, I'm going through it so that I can put together a to-do list. It's going to be a school commuter so my first priority is to get a baseline for reliability, then later work on the nice-to-have upgrades. Notes so far: - New brakes done - Suspension looks ok for now. No obvious bushing issues. - Clutch feels ok, no slippage - slight oil weep from heads and/or valve covers (no real drips) - Fuel gauge goes squirrley once in a while. Below 1/2 it will occasionally drop below empty. Almost like a bad ground or something. - Don't know if the T belt was done. - Both serpentine belts are age cracked...need replacing - A/C sounds like a Kenny-G concert. Goes away if you turn off a/c. I am thinking that the T-belt is priority 1. I'm putting 2 and 2 together because of the look of the other belts. I was thinking of tackling this myself if I could do it in place. Any advice would be great! Any experience with the fuel sender? Is it a common issue? For the A/C, I was going to start with the idler pulley, since it's a cheap fix. Sound like a plan?
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Sep 2, 2012 18:33
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I spent a day with my center console ripped and my factory stereo/climate control chimera disassembled, and a bit of hacking later I have a great sounding aux input with no need for a silent CD. I pulled ideas from a few different solutions I saw and came up with one that only requires adding a relay and an audio input cable to the radio, and running a switch somewhere (I put mine next to the 12V outlet in the arm rest box). I went tearing down some dirt roads in Maine this weekend and loved how it handled. A friend recommended adding this (skid plates) to it, and I'm considering it: http://www.get-primitive.com/ Have any of you done that?
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Sep 4, 2012 20:32
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I've ordered one for someone before. Probably my favorite skid plate out there, from a shop that actually builds rally cars as opposed to mudflaps.
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Sep 4, 2012 20:36
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Viking Blood posted:
Yes. You should get a whole timing kit that includes the idlers, tensioner, and water pump. I carry them but it is cheapest to get the gates kit from amazon. There are a lot of good guides around and some videos (I made one doing my dohc belt awhile ago) plus some of the subaru forums have links to service manuals. The hardest part is probably getting the crank pulley off. A/C I would think idler and a new belt will fix it. I see those pulleys make noise a lot. Not sure on the fuel sender. The gauge on my 93 sucked while the gauge on my 98 works great. The sender is built into the pump hanger so you could pull it out, clean it, and clean the connector to the harness to see if that helps.
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Sep 4, 2012 20:41
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Hillridge posted:I went tearing down some dirt roads in Maine this weekend and loved how it handled. A friend recommended adding this (skid plates) to it, and I'm considering it: Easy to install, well made, durable and I'd bet you could jack the entire car up on it if you had to. jamal posted:Not sure on the fuel sender. The gauge on my 93 sucked while the gauge on my 98 works great. The sender is built into the pump hanger so you could pull it out, clean it, and clean the connector to the harness to see if that helps. Unlikely to be the problem here (sounds electrical in nature) but probably can't hurt to pull the senders and take a look anyway. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Sep 4, 2012 |
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Sep 4, 2012 21:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've got one on my WRX. It's pretty great, and if shipping were cheaper I'd have one for the OBS as well. If you cant jack off it, it's worthless as a skid plate - that's exactly the kind of force you need to have in mind when protecting the sump. That said they look to be not bad, not quite true rally car armour but will protect the sump to a good degree.
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Sep 4, 2012 23:10
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Hillridge posted:I spent a day with my center console ripped and my factory stereo/climate control chimera disassembled, and a bit of hacking later I have a great sounding aux input with no need for a silent CD. I pulled ideas from a few different solutions I saw and came up with one that only requires adding a relay and an audio input cable to the radio, and running a switch somewhere (I put mine next to the 12V outlet in the arm rest box). Where the gently caress what. Have you read my thread yet? We bomb the gently caress out of logging roads in Maine. I have the primative skid on my RS, and I have battle tested it plenty. Paul is a great guy who makes a great product, just dont expect it in a hurry. Seat Safety Switch posted:Easy to install, well made, durable and I'd bet you could jack the entire car up on it if you had to. I do jack mine up by it. It's literally put the jack under front until handle hits bumper cover, lift.
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Sep 4, 2012 23:12
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Now I want one too.
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Sep 4, 2012 23:21
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Oh poo poo, when did they start carrying lightbars for outbacks?
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Sep 5, 2012 00:35
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I feel like its annoying to ask, but can someone tell me where to learn about logging on my AP and what is normal vs. what is bad? I have linked my first ever data log below. Its showing knock during vacuum and very low boost, never even got on it. It is of my drive home from work, about 24 miles. Ambient temp low 90s (*F). Anything I should be aware of? Its a large file, and the knock is there a few times. Scroll quickly and its not too hard to find the few instances. First instance row 958. I really appreciate any input. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ahvm-HT5B_RkdEt0SEl2LTM0NjBOU19ma2dPTjNsMlE
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Sep 5, 2012 00:35
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I feel like its annoying to ask, but can someone tell me where to learn about logging on my AP and what is normal vs. what is bad? I have linked my first ever data log below. Its showing knock during vacuum and very low boost, never even got on it. It is of my drive home from work, about 24 miles. Ambient temp low 90s (*F). Anything I should be aware of? Its a large file, and the knock is there a few times. Scroll quickly and its not too hard to find the few instances. First instance row 958. Your DAM is staying at 1 so there's nothing substantial enough to cause the ECU to retard timing on a global basis. Which map are you running or are you still on the stock map? I'd recommend signing up for Access Tuner Race from Cobb as well so you can plug into the ECU on your wrx and look at the live tables and see if the ECU is bothering to remember any of that feedback knock. All that said you have some very minor knock at around 2500-3000 rpm at about 1/3 throttle with low boost and low load. I wouldn't worry much about it. It is easy to freak out over though, I do it all the time. 
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Sep 5, 2012 01:53
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Amandyke posted:Your DAM is staying at 1 so there's nothing substantial enough to cause the ECU to retard timing on a global basis. Which map are you running or are you still on the stock map? I'd recommend signing up for Access Tuner Race from Cobb as well so you can plug into the ECU on your wrx and look at the live tables and see if the ECU is bothering to remember any of that feedback knock. Awesome. Running 2011 STi Stage 1 91 v301 boost select. I only have a Mac so no ATR for me, which sucks majorly. I might buy a 200$ laptop just to run it. When you say plug in to into the ECU do you mean via tactrix or...? How do I distinguish minor knock from something to be concerned about? I am trying to learn and really appreciate your help. I did find this page that seemed useful to a moron like me: http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/57-tuning-fork/7623-erics-guide-datalogging-understanding-datalogs.html
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Sep 5, 2012 02:09
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Awesome. You plug in the USB cable that would normally go to the AP into your laptop and now ATR acts as the AP. As for running a Mac, you could boot camp into windows or: http://www.vmware.com/products/fusion/overview.html quote:How do I distinguish minor knock from something to be concerned about? I am trying to learn and really appreciate your help. That's actually a decent little write up. And if it's correct then the -1.4 degrees that you saw was from a single knock event and seeing as the ECU did not read any other knocks it put the timing back to normal. I'd start to be concerned when you see your knock correction grow and stay above 0. The temporary -1.4's etc are fairly common and shouldn't be of concern. It's when they stay there and your DAM/ICM goes down that you should maybe start looking into what might be going on. I'd start with filling up at a different gas station next time. What state are you in? You should be using the ACN maps if you're in CA, NV, or AZ as our gas suuuuuuuuucks.
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Sep 5, 2012 02:31
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So, just how close to death is an engine that has the "tick of death" on the EA series engine ('87 GL)? I've heard a number of reports saying that replacing engine and oil pump seals, oil pump, etc will or will not remedy it and some even say a cocktail of MMO and Seafoam can help remedy it. What's the truth?
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Sep 5, 2012 03:09
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Amandyke posted:You plug in the USB cable that would normally go to the AP into your laptop and now ATR acts as the AP. So OBDII to AP to laptop? I'm in CO and the gas I've been using is Conoco 91. Its right by my house. I am fairly close to a shell but.. 91. Also, I just tried to log twice to and from the store, and I got back to no logs stored. Do I need to stop the logging and disconnect the AP while the car is still idling?
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Sep 5, 2012 03:31
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So OBDII to AP to laptop? It literally goes from the sender that plugs into your OBDII port via the USB cable to your laptop, no AP at all involved. I don't think you should need to stop the logging for it to save, but I do know you need to hit the center button to START the logging after you've selected Log mode
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Sep 5, 2012 03:47
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I think I forgot to press start. Also, the other end of the cable that plugs into the OBDII port is some kind of 10 pin Cobb connector I think. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/COBB-Tuning-AccessPORT-AP-SUB-003-PT-w-Proto-Tuning-Tool-Holder I'm not trying to be a turd I just want to be clear . You are very helpful! I feel like I'm back to square 1 with knowing what's up with my car 
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Sep 5, 2012 04:12
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jamal posted:Advice Thanks, pretty much affirmed my thoughts. From the info I see out there, I should be able to do the belt without pulling the engine. After that maybe something more practical like a set of Prodrives.
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Sep 5, 2012 04:25
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I think I forgot to press start. Also, the other end of the cable that plugs into the OBDII port is some kind of 10 pin Cobb connector I think. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/COBB-Tuning-AccessPORT-AP-SUB-003-PT-w-Proto-Tuning-Tool-Holder Oh shoot you're right. Mine doesn't have that other plug. No idea how you'd plug it in then. Maybe you would have to daisy chain it? Edit: Just stumbled across this little video FAQ on what COBB considers the top 5 monitors you should know how to read in your data logs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjEGZ-4dsDY Amandyke fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 04:40
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The dongle has a standard usb port though so you can just use a different cable (I think it comes with both?).
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Sep 5, 2012 05:01
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Amandyke posted:All that said you have some very minor knock at around 2500-3000 rpm at about 1/3 throttle with low boost and low load. I wouldn't worry much about it. It is easy to freak out over though, I do it all the time. Like Amandyke said, don't worry too much if your DAM doesn't drop below 1, and your knock doesn't occur at high load/WOT. Knock in this particular rev range and load is also very common on the 08+ STI's, due to a change in the fuel pressure regulator - if you log AFR you'll notice it go somewhat to very lean compared to what the commanded AFR is. Subaru apparently cheaped out and decided to use a regulator with issues rather than the same regulator they used in years past, and just solved the problem with a fueling compensation in that small range instead. You can swap in an old regulator from the 04-06 models (maybe 07? Can't remember precisely when it changed) or an aftermarket regulator and solve the problem. I spend a lot of time in that range on the highway, and on E85 the lean spot will literally car to hesitate or shudder at times in 6th, until I give it some serious throttle. I'm replacing mine with an aftermarket FPR when I have more car money, though it's pretty low on the to do list for now. Also, for the guy asking about the primitive skid plate, do it. You won't regret it - the finish is awesome for the price. I got the front plate and rear diff cover, and promptly drove the Apache Trail with it here in Arizona, where it definitely got some use going over a few rocks when I was forced to reverse course on a 1-car wide side trail. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 05:16
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c355n4 posted:Oh poo poo, when did they start carrying lightbars for outbacks?  Good lord that looks good. Maybe if I bite the bullet and get the 1" lift springs for my Outback, it won't feel like such a pig and I'll be inspired to do more motorsporty things.
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Sep 5, 2012 14:13
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Did Subaru fix their AT woes by 2007? Also is it possible for an 07 Legacy to have a CVT in the US? Not sure if the craigslist seller is confused, correct or maybe scamming.
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Sep 5, 2012 16:06
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Thanks for the info bobtheferret. I posted my log up on the Cobb forum as well and "bill from Cobb" was saying similar things as you and Amandyke. Another question: Is the IAT sensor pre or post intercooler? I would guess its either near the MAF in the box or at the throttle body. I ask because I have been watching IAT on the AccessPORT and during normal driving I'm 8-15 over ambient. This morning on my way to work, however, there were two wrecks and although it was 56 F outside, my IATs were in the 130s during the stop and go. Furthermore, I usually (heh) see the IAT drop after I get going, but it took a bit longer this time. This leads me to believe something is heat soaking in the intake tract and I immediately think intercooler due to materials. Is there a good way to work with the stock intake to reduce IATs and increase the speed at which they approach ambient? Do any of the cais on the market work to reduce temps? Buy a turbo blanket and a new heat shield? Also I'd like to bump my question about 5w40 in the winter in cold climates. Good, bad? Thanks guys.
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Sep 5, 2012 17:27
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Thanks for the info bobtheferret. I posted my log up on the Cobb forum as well and "bill from Cobb" was saying similar things as you and Amandyke. I believe the IAT for subaru's is located in the MAF, so just after the air filter in your engine bay.
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Sep 5, 2012 17:39
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Safety Dance posted:
It does look good, but I doubt that particular brushguard would do much, if anything, in an impact with wild-life or whatever. It looks like all the tubing is only spot welded together, and there is noticeable gaps in all the joints. Honestly it looks like something somebody threw together in their garage and not a professional piece. Just my two bits.
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Sep 5, 2012 20:01
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Terrible Robot posted:It does look good, but I doubt that particular brushguard would do much, if anything, in an impact with wild-life or whatever. It looks like all the tubing is only spot welded together, and there is noticeable gaps in all the joints. Honestly it looks like something somebody threw together in their garage and not a professional piece. It looks like a mockup/test piece to me. I think you can still see the sharpie writing on the tubes. Primitive Racing has been around a looooooooooooong time. *edit - nevermind says on website "These photos are unfinished prototype."
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Sep 5, 2012 20:50
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Took another log of my car on my way home today. Filled up from gas light on with some Shell 91 instead of Conoco 91. I have some -2.8 feedback knock in cells 5570-5574, but DAM stays at 1. Also some sporadic fine knock greater than -1.4* in magnitude. Am I over reacting or is this bad? I know I should "go do some pulls" but seeing these values makes me not want to. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ahvm-HT5B_RkdHJtb0g1RnQ5UFR1QTdubzJsU3ppSmc Thoughts?
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Sep 6, 2012 00:22
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I'm looking at a 2001 Legacy Outback with 182,000 on the clock in fair to good condition. There's a some wear, including missing foglamp inserts, but nothing major. Being a casual Subaru observer, I've heard a lot about the headgasket problems on the EJ25, but besides checking some forums, not a whole lot else. If this car has gotten up to this mileage, is it a safe guess that it's already had the headgasket serviced? From what I've seen, the most positive reviews for '01 Legacy Outbacks is from people who bought used units with over 100,000 miles on them. Anyway, I can get this one for $1,600. That's below blue book, but is it worth it?
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Sep 6, 2012 00:35
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