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TheWevel
Apr 14, 2002
Send Help; Trapped in Stupid Factory

Bounded Empire posted:

Its frustrating because our neighbor had another tree on his roof too and he has a different insurance company (USAA). They had people removing the tree at 8am this morning and are patching their roof now and its all covered. His contractors have great reviews online.

drat, that's literally in their commercial too.

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B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

TheWevel posted:

drat, that's literally in their commercial too.

Exactly what I was thinking. Your neighbor "got paid before you even got your claim started." Did he give you a wave over the fence?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwEEOpKViOU

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



^^^^ This is an amazing coincidence

FCKGW posted:

I would take a peek behind the switch if you can and see if there's a separate fan wire. My switches were on/off but had a 3rd wired that wasn't connected to anything. I bought some smart combination fan/light switches and now I just yell at my Alexa to turn on the fan when I go to bed.

There's some remote controllers that pop into a switch as well if you want a neat integrated solution.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Ceiling-Fan-Wall-Switch-9050H/202801200
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-Universal-Damp-Rated-Ceiling-Fan-Wall-Remote-Control-White-99393/313862621

I highly doubt it has an extra wire because there was a boob light before I installed a fan, and this is an early 2000s building with.... not the greatest construction decisions. But I'll take a look :)

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Inner Light posted:

^^^^ This is an amazing coincidence

I highly doubt it has an extra wire because there was a boob light before I installed a fan, and this is an early 2000s building with.... not the greatest construction decisions. But I'll take a look :)

On the home depot website for the fan you linked it said control by pull chain only. I don't think there's anything you can do but get another fan with a remote. My first ceiling fan I bought had only control via remote, and my new one is by chain only as well.

I think any fan with a chain is chain only but I'm not certain.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



StormDrain posted:

On the home depot website for the fan you linked it said control by pull chain only. I don't think there's anything you can do but get another fan with a remote. My first ceiling fan I bought had only control via remote, and my new one is by chain only as well.

I think any fan with a chain is chain only but I'm not certain.

Got it thanks, yeah that sounds right. I have spent too many hours of my life thinking about ceiling fans, I think I'm sticking with this model. It's kinda small and awkward but it works fine, and the light is nice.

Here have a photo, this is before furniture. Curious on any opinions if the blade size is too small for this size room, I think I did okay:

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jul 15, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

StormDrain posted:

On the home depot website for the fan you linked it said control by pull chain only. I don't think there's anything you can do but get another fan with a remote. My first ceiling fan I bought had only control via remote, and my new one is by chain only as well.

I think any fan with a chain is chain only but I'm not certain.

I mean, yes and no. There are universal fan remotes you used to be able to buy before fans started coming with them built in. They might still be something that is available.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Inner Light posted:

Got it thanks, yeah that sounds right. I have spent too many hours of my life thinking about ceiling fans, I think I'm sticking with this model. It's kinda small and awkward but it works fine, and the light is nice.

Here have a photo, this is before furniture. Curious on any opinions if the blade size is too small for this size room, I think I did okay:



Is the amount of air movement adequate for your comfort?

That looks like a generic American rectangular bedroom maybe 10x14, seems fine to me.

Bounded Empire
Apr 26, 2010

devicenull posted:

There's an insurance thread in this forum, maybe try that.

How did your adjuster pick an amount without having seen anything? Did you get written quotes from the contractors?

I will try the insurance thread, thanks! The max price from insurance was from the desk adjuster before the field adjuster came out. I think it is the max limit based on the tree size based on pictures we sent.

We got a couple quotes. One was to remove and dispose of the tree, which was too much. The other was to just move the tree to the edge of the road. They were on budget but we would need to find someone else to dispose of it, which insurance would only cover $500.

We complained enough that insurance did send someone out to give their estimate including removal. They came in just over the limit and insurance agreed to pay it. The work doesn't start until tomorrow but the adjuster said they would cover any additional damage from the delay.

Cyrano4747 posted:

What company are you with, out of curiosity?

You know, so I can avoid them in the future.

Northern Neck insurance in Virginia. Honestly I hadn't heard of them before we bought the house two years ago. We didn't really shop around like we're should have with so many other things going on when buying. We just went with what or realtor recommended.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Motronic posted:

I mean, yes and no. There are universal fan remotes you used to be able to buy before fans started coming with them built in. They might still be something that is available.

Yep I put one on my bedroom fan. Was like 20 bux on Amazon

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

Bounded Empire posted:

Northern Neck insurance in Virginia. Honestly I hadn't heard of them before we bought the house two years ago. We didn't really shop around like we're should have with so many other things going on when buying. We just went with what or realtor recommended.

Hahahaha gently caress we have Northern Neck. They were cheaper than USAA for way more coverage, and lower deductibles, guess this is why.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Tyro posted:

Hahahaha gently caress we have Northern Neck. They were cheaper than USAA for way more coverage, and lower deductibles, guess this is why.

Insurance thread has advice, but that sounds pretty bad. You'd generally want to find a independent agent (and definitely don't trust anything your relator says)

Nybble
Jun 28, 2008

praise chuck, raise heck
If you can get USAA, get USAA. Lucky to have it and use for almost everything but the mortgage itself.

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

Nybble posted:

If you can get USAA, get USAA. Lucky to have it and use for almost everything but the mortgage itself.

Yeah we've used them forever for pretty much everything. May as well switch the homeowners over.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Tyro posted:

Yeah we've used them forever for pretty much everything. May as well switch the homeowners over.

OPs has a 50% chance of getting dropped after this claim anyway, so may as well start shopping.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Tyro posted:

Yeah we've used them forever for pretty much everything. May as well switch the homeowners over.

I'm surprised they weren't trying to upsell you on homeowners - you typically get a pretty decent discount having all auto/home insurance with the same company

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

devicenull posted:

Filter drier is a standard maintenance item whenever you have a leak, so replacing that should be no problem. I'm guessing it's an R22 system? Refilling that could be fairly expensive. I'd suggest getting a second estimate, you might even be able to get one over the phone if you can describe the problem like you just did.

Yeah the refill is where I expect to get dinged. I'm trying to weigh whether it's worth the gamble of paying $1k+ to get the replacement and the recharge and ride out this unit for another year or two.

The cynical part of me thinks that it's certainly not going to get cheaper or easier to get this work done, so we might as well bite the bullet lest this stack up with the water heater or other stuff that are entering their end-years too.

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?
I'm buying house and the previous owner renovated the basement. In one of the walls they put a strip of glass blocks near the top:


Naturally this means those studs aren't running floor to ceiling. I'm sure this is no problem in compression, but I'm curious if it could be a problem with a bending load. Specifically I'm planning on using the room on the other side as my office, and I want my desk pretty much right under the blocks. I'd like to mount my ~30 lb. monitor on an extending arm, and possibly do a floating desk if I'm feeling real sassy.

Should I be opening up the wall to remove the blocks and replace the studs?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Drywall can carry 30 lbs no problem with good anchors, so your monitor would be fine. I'd wager even a floating desk cantilevered off that wall would be fine too, but it's not my toes. Those glass blocks are on an interior wall? Wth?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Ugh my handyman is an idiot, I thought I could trust him for small jobs but nah. First he hosed up painting, I was away when he finished and when I looked at it there were huge obvious lumps (like 3" across) that hadn't been sanded before he painted. So he redid that for me when I asked.

Now I'm exchanging one of my two ceiling fans that had an annoying hum to the motor. I have a 2nd of the same fan that does not hum. Again I wasn't home when he did this. This is also baby's very first quasi-electrical job, I've never changed a light switch or receptacle or did anything with wires in the wall before.

He clearly used a power drill to screw in tiny screws into wood, so both some screws are stripped out and some of the wood fan blades are damaged. Fine, whatever.

I take it down and the ground wire attached to the fan is just hanging there, completely unattached to the house ground wire. The house ground wire had nothing attached to it, but was covered up with a wire nut..... (?).

Once I'm done with this one I'll have to remove all the fan blades on the other one and take it down to check to see if it's grounded.

Guess I will stick to taskrabbit for crap that I don't want to attempt myself, instead of this guy in the future, like when I want to mount my TV to my steel stud walls. Or I'll call the local electronics store and pay a little more to not have to even worry about taskrabbit people.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jul 16, 2021

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Did you put the fan back up with the ground to see if that's why it was humming?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



StormDrain posted:

Did you put the fan back up with the ground to see if that's why it was humming?

That's not a bad idea -- but to my ears it was more of a mechanical brushing sound, and I could see when the motor housing was spinning it wasn't level and one side was higher than the other, so it oscillated. Seems like just lovely QA at the factory of the internal fasteners that I can't access.

Anyway, it would take me some more work to get everything back up again, and I already picked up the replacement at Home Depot, so I'm going to put the new one up and return the old one since I still can.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
fffffffffuck

So lmao at myself. All this fan chat and "rah rah I want switches" and this happens:



There are 3 switches. I need to add 3 more switches. There are studs spaced funny here on account of the door/window, so the current box is mounted to a stud on its left, and a few inches to the right is another stud. Quick measurements makes me think I can squeeze a 4-gang box in there.

Electricians stopped by today and pointed out the stud proximity. They want to just add another 3-gang box above/below the existing, but the more I think about that the more I hate that option.

Trying to puzzle out the best solution. Thinking I can eliminate 1 switch (it's a 3-way for a rarely used fan light) and then downgrade the patio fan/light to just a single switch (or remote, which I hate, but :shrug:).

I could maybe use one of those double-switch things for the fan, but at some point the wire fill will get me, so I'm not sure that'll pass inspection.

Alternatively, I can move 1 switch outside. Allows me to either keep the 3-way switch or add a fan switch inside. Kind of makes sense logically, except aesthetically we'll have a big ugly weatherproof box with conduit running up a post...

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

NomNomNom posted:

Those glass blocks are on an interior wall? Wth?
Those aren't even the weird ones, the basement bathroom has a 12"x30" section of them covered with textured glass panels on an interior wall shared with a bedroom.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Totally not relevant, but the off-center fake fireplace and mirror (relative to the glass blocks above) would drive me insane.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



biracial bear for uncut posted:

Totally not relevant, but the off-center fake fireplace and mirror (relative to the glass blocks above) would drive me insane.

i am pretty sure this would mean I pass over the house

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Well, re-hanging the mirror slightly further to the right and moving the fake fireplace over ought to be simple enough.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Oh right, I was assuming it was one of those ducted fake fireplaces that are not moveable. This one’s probably ductless

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?
Yeah, it's just an electric standalone one. I don't expect it to still be there on possession day.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

TerminalSaint posted:

Those aren't even the weird ones, the basement bathroom has a 12"x30" section of them covered with textured glass panels on an interior wall shared with a bedroom.


What the actual gently caress?

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?
Maybe trying to let in some of the natural light from the bedroom windows, I dunno.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

DaveSauce posted:

fffffffffuck

So lmao at myself. All this fan chat and "rah rah I want switches" and this happens:



There are 3 switches. I need to add 3 more switches. There are studs spaced funny here on account of the door/window, so the current box is mounted to a stud on its left, and a few inches to the right is another stud. Quick measurements makes me think I can squeeze a 4-gang box in there.

Electricians stopped by today and pointed out the stud proximity. They want to just add another 3-gang box above/below the existing, but the more I think about that the more I hate that option.

Trying to puzzle out the best solution. Thinking I can eliminate 1 switch (it's a 3-way for a rarely used fan light) and then downgrade the patio fan/light to just a single switch (or remote, which I hate, but :shrug:).

I could maybe use one of those double-switch things for the fan, but at some point the wire fill will get me, so I'm not sure that'll pass inspection.

Alternatively, I can move 1 switch outside. Allows me to either keep the 3-way switch or add a fan switch inside. Kind of makes sense that logically, except aesthetically we'll have a big ugly weatherproof box with conduit running up a post...

At this point you should probably just rewire the whole house to a lighting control system and you can have one of these here.



Seriously good call on the wire fill, I am not sure if you can get by with three double switches or not, or I guess perhaps it's a triple, double and single so one can be a three way?

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

DaveSauce posted:

fffffffffuck

So lmao at myself. All this fan chat and "rah rah I want switches" and this happens:



There are 3 switches. I need to add 3 more switches. There are studs spaced funny here on account of the door/window, so the current box is mounted to a stud on its left, and a few inches to the right is another stud. Quick measurements makes me think I can squeeze a 4-gang box in there.

Electricians stopped by today and pointed out the stud proximity. They want to just add another 3-gang box above/below the existing, but the more I think about that the more I hate that option.

Trying to puzzle out the best solution. Thinking I can eliminate 1 switch (it's a 3-way for a rarely used fan light) and then downgrade the patio fan/light to just a single switch (or remote, which I hate, but :shrug:).

I could maybe use one of those double-switch things for the fan, but at some point the wire fill will get me, so I'm not sure that'll pass inspection.

Alternatively, I can move 1 switch outside. Allows me to either keep the 3-way switch or add a fan switch inside. Kind of makes sense logically, except aesthetically we'll have a big ugly weatherproof box with conduit running up a post...

Why do you hate having another 3 gang box underneath? I’ve got a narrow bit of wall near my back door and I have stacked dual gang boxes and it’s never once bothered me.

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

TerminalSaint posted:

Those aren't even the weird ones, the basement bathroom has a 12"x30" section of them covered with textured glass panels on an interior wall shared with a bedroom.


I toured a house a few months ago that had an owner-finished basement with similar pseudo windows built into the "bedroom" walls. I think it was to make it feel more like a real bedroom instead of a dark interior room.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

StormDrain posted:

At this point you should probably just rewire the whole house to a lighting control system and you can have one of these here.



Seriously good call on the wire fill, I am not sure if you can get by with three double switches or not, or I guess perhaps it's a triple, double and single so one can be a three way?

Thinking we'll just have 1 double switch, the rest will be singles. So 6 is ideal with everything intact, but if we subtract 1 for removing the 3-way, and make 1 gang a double switch, that leaves us needing a 4-gang box.

I ran through some napkin calculations and I think we might be OK with wire fill, but I'm obviously not an electrician so I'm sure I missed something. Not sure how to calculate the non-wire/device things on there, and I don't know if they're running new circuits or not. But what I know of gets us to around 50 cu in, so there's room to spare based on the 4-gang boxes I'm seeing on LowesDepot.

skipdogg posted:

Why do you hate having another 3 gang box underneath? I’ve got a narrow bit of wall near my back door and I have stacked dual gang boxes and it’s never once bothered me.

Not entirely sure. Doesn't exist anywhere else in the house, and I've never seen it anywhere in the wild. Seems like it's a hack solution and in my head it'll look ugly as hell.

Actualy thinking about it, we do have stacked boxes in the master bath. There's a double switch 1-gang above a 1-gang receptacle, which is crammed in because it's a double vanity and has one of those builder-grade big-rear end mirrors that takes up everything except 5" of the wall.

I'm still turning it over in my head. But if I can make the 4-gang work as above, then really I think I'm OK getting rid of that 3-way switch. Hell, the fixture it controls doesn't even work anyhow... cheapass hunter fan with something wrong in the light kit that I've never had time to properly diagnose/fix. But even when it worked we barely used it, so we're really not going to miss it.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Jul 16, 2021

dalstrs
Mar 11, 2004

At least this way my kill will have some use
Dinosaur Gum
Does anyone have any experience with Elite Crete concrete overlays? I currently have a kool deck overlay (that is chipping up)on the concrete around my pool. Most of the options I have found to replace it with something that is also going to be tolerable underfoot have been polymer-based products (~$5-6k total).

The contractor for Elite Crete says it would also be cool underfoot. It is also supposed to be easier to make look any way we want and cost ~$2k less than the other solutions(~$3500). They also give a 6-year warranty.

It seems too good to be true really. Almost all the reviews I can find are positive, but there is just not that much I can find about it from non-biased sources and nothing about how it feels after being in the sun all day.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

DaveSauce posted:

Thinking we'll just have 1 double switch, the rest will be singles. So 6 is ideal with everything intact, but if we subtract 1 for removing the 3-way, and make 1 gang a double switch, that leaves us needing a 4-gang box.

I ran through some napkin calculations and I think we might be OK with wire fill, but I'm obviously not an electrician so I'm sure I missed something. Not sure how to calculate the non-wire/device things on there, and I don't know if they're running new circuits or not. But what I know of gets us to around 50 cu in, so there's room to spare based on the 4-gang boxes I'm seeing on LowesDepot.

Not entirely sure. Doesn't exist anywhere else in the house, and I've never seen it anywhere in the wild. Seems like it's a hack solution and in my head it'll look ugly as hell.

Actualy thinking about it, we do have stacked boxes in the master bath. There's a double switch 1-gang above a 1-gang receptacle, which is crammed in because it's a double vanity and has one of those builder-grade big-rear end mirrors that takes up everything except 5" of the wall.

I'm still turning it over in my head. But if I can make the 4-gang work as above, then really I think I'm OK getting rid of that 3-way switch. Hell, the fixture it controls doesn't even work anyhow... cheapass hunter fan with something wrong in the light kit that I've never had time to properly diagnose/fix. But even when it worked we barely used it, so we're really not going to miss it.

You could also just put another switch box on the opposite side of the stud, so they'd be next to each other instead of on top/below. The truth is, once you put it in and get used to it, it stops being weird and you forget about it. I had that situation in my previous house, a single switch for the hall light, and then a 3 gang for porch light, entry light, and living room light. If there'd been a 5th or 6th switch there it wouldn't have crossed my mind once I knew what it was. Here's a pic:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



I finished baby's first electrical job with the fan replacement :D

New fan doesn't have the hum of the other one, so mission success. The instructions said to put electrical tape on the wire nuts to secure them but they seemed tight enough without the tape, and definitely no exposed wire. :shrug:

Less Fat Luke
May 23, 2003

Exciting Lemon

DaveSauce posted:

I've never seen it anywhere in the wild.
Well now you have! Welcome... to switch overload:

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Inner Light posted:

I finished baby's first electrical job with the fan replacement :D

New fan doesn't have the hum of the other one, so mission success. The instructions said to put electrical tape on the wire nuts to secure them but they seemed tight enough without the tape, and definitely no exposed wire. :shrug:

RIP. Sadly due to it being your own failure the home insurance and life insurance are not going to cover this.

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KariOhki
Apr 22, 2008
Need opinions that aren't skewed by what type of website I'm looking it up on - what's better to do first, interior wall painting or carpet replacement?

The painting is almost the entire house (living room/kitchen, hallway, staircase hallway, and two bedrooms), and will most likely include the baseboards. Carpet replacement is the two bedrooms + staircase. No furniture in the place yet other than a few easily moveable dining chairs.

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