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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Took another log of my car on my way home today. Filled up from gas light on with some Shell 91 instead of Conoco 91. I have some -2.8 feedback knock in cells 5570-5574, but DAM stays at 1. Also some sporadic fine knock greater than -1.4* in magnitude. Am I over reacting or is this bad? I know I should "go do some pulls" but seeing these values makes me not want to. Not seeing anything out of the ordinary. You did just change fuel and that shows in the fluctuation of the A/F fuel correction. Don't worry about timing getting pulled unless it stays pulled. Honestly it could just be a loose heat shield, or the song you were listening to. The knock sensor is very very sensitive. edit: Uploaded a log I just took with my car, just re-flashed an ATR map so the ECU is still hashing things out. This should make you feel better about what yours is looking like: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsL0m_GGD5vcdEJ3VGRnbEFTNHU0TUJzVDhxQ1FvbVE fake edit: log taken on a closed course, do not try at home and all of that. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 00:39
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Took another log of my car on my way home today. Filled up from gas light on with some Shell 91 instead of Conoco 91. I have some -2.8 feedback knock in cells 5570-5574, but DAM stays at 1. Also some sporadic fine knock greater than -1.4* in magnitude. Am I over reacting or is this bad? I know I should "go do some pulls" but seeing these values makes me not want to. Is the a reason you mentioned that you bought gas at a different place? The only difference is the detergents that each brand puts into it.
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Sep 6, 2012 00:41
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Francis Baconator posted:I'm looking at a 2001 Legacy Outback with 182,000 on the clock in fair to good condition. There's a some wear, including missing foglamp inserts, but nothing major. Being a casual Subaru observer, I've heard a lot about the headgasket problems on the EJ25, but besides checking some forums, not a whole lot else. If this car has gotten up to this mileage, is it a safe guess that it's already had the headgasket serviced? From what I've seen, the most positive reviews for '01 Legacy Outbacks is from people who bought used units with over 100,000 miles on them. Anyway, I can get this one for $1,600. That's below blue book, but is it worth it? However, $1600 for an early Outback seems like a pretty good deal to me. Even if the engine pops there's probably enough there to make most of your money back, and it's hard to find a more profoundly useful car. I'd get it casually looked at by someone who works on Subarus a lot and knows the signs of head gasket failure and then drive the hell out of it. You could also get the H6 Outback in 2001 but I'm assuming you've already checked and made sure that it is in fact a 2.5L SOHC.
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Sep 6, 2012 00:48
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Amandyke posted:Not seeing anything out of the ordinary. You did just change fuel and that shows in the fluctuation of the A/F fuel correction. Don't worry about timing getting pulled unless it stays pulled. Honestly it could just be a loose heat shield, or the song you were listening to. The knock sensor is very very sensitive. There was one instance where fine knock learn stayed at -1.4* for about 5-7 sec. I guess I wont worry. I wonder what my logs would look like from when I was auto crossing on the stock map in the desert  What does it mean when a correction is less then 1.4 in magnitude? daslog, I only mentioned the fuel because I switched from Conoco to Shell and while I realize they are extremely similar, anti-knock agents/concentrations are likely different and I wanted to provide as much data as possible. I really appreciate the help and time. I know these are belligerent logs. Is ATR reasonable to use with a slow computer? I really want to tune my own car, but don't actually own a functional computer. Obviously, that will have to wait until I can post about data logs without a downs face.
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Sep 6, 2012 03:55
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Speaking of posting data logs, I thought if one or two of you had a moment to look at this you could tell me what the gently caress: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aomf9EH4ewx4dGdFNHdoUUpTTU1wUk1yaWhVYjVfN0E Was just a short ride home so I don't know if it needs to be longer or what, but here is my first attempt. I will eventually go to the Cobb forums and post it but you guys are so friendly and helpful I thought I would start here. Thanks in advance for any guidance. fake edit: 2012 STi with COI and SPT exhaust, Stage1 +SF 91 v310 Boost Select map if that helps/matters.
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Sep 6, 2012 04:48
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Took another log of my car on my way home today. Filled up from gas light on with some Shell 91 instead of Conoco 91. I have some -2.8 feedback knock in cells 5570-5574, but DAM stays at 1. Also some sporadic fine knock greater than -1.4* in magnitude. Am I over reacting or is this bad? I know I should "go do some pulls" but seeing these values makes me not want to. Tried using higher octane fuel?
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Sep 6, 2012 04:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The OP of this thread goes into more detail, but it's possible that it's on course for its second headgasket failure. They need to be replaced with multilayer steel gaskets as in the WRX/STI and not with the old style gasket that it has no doubt already been replaced with once.
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Sep 6, 2012 05:04
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I'd buy the '01 Outback before almost any of the EA Subarus. Sure, they're tough as hell, but they are extremely primitive cars, built more like early import trucks than anything resembling a modern car. The Outback also has a ton more space in it than the GL wagons. You'll find new uses for the Outback every time you take it out, whereas I'd be constantly afraid of breaking some hard-to-find part on a GL if I were to beat on it to the level my other two Subarus get. If you're planning to modify the cars and secure a decent parts hoard (like chrisgt's beautiful examples) you're basically sitting pretty either way. I think you'd just get more enjoyment out of the Outback vs. a 50-50 of "look at this quirky loving car" / "son of a bitch, you want how much for NOS parts?" Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 05:19
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'd buy the '01 Outback before almost any of the EA Subarus. Sure, they're tough as hell, but they are extremely primitive cars, built more like early import trucks than anything resembling a modern car.  ). In some reviews and forums, it sounds like there's instances in which braking power is lost. Would you know what that could be related to or if it's a consistent problem? Obviously, if it's just a freak thing, I'll disregard it. Beyond that, if there's anything to look at when I check it out, I'm all ears.
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Sep 6, 2012 05:25
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If I had to guess, they're probably talking about the check valve in the vacuum booster hose, which can freeze up in the winter as it gets clogged with crankcase vapour and water. It happened to me last winter on my 350,000 km '97 Impreza only once the temperature dipped past -30'C in the mornings. I never lost braking power, just power assist - which in the hands of an inexperienced driver would certainly seem similar. Once the car was up to temp the ice melted and the car worked as normal, so it wasn't that bad and I was able to drive after being very careful with it for a few minutes after starting each morning. The replacement hose was about $15 and took me a few minutes to replace. edit: 02 Imprezas/WRXes had spotty ABS, and I can imagine that goes a lot earlier as well since my 97's ABS will happily engage if I brake moderately and smoothly over a 2-3" deep crack in the road. It's annoying but not dangerous if you're aware of it. edit 2: You're in the Seattle area, correct? All Wheel Drive Auto sells some prearranged MLS head gasket kits that might be worth looking into instead of chasing down part numbers: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-parts/ Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 05:28
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Thanks for the clarification on the braking system quirk. Sounds like it's no big deal at all, to me. I'm actually in North Dakota, but if I end up having to do an HG repair, I'll definitely go through the place in your link. If a person is going to spend a couple thousand to replace the gasket, they might as well have the right parts.
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Sep 6, 2012 05:46
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Sten Freak posted:Did Subaru fix their AT woes by 2007? Also is it possible for an 07 Legacy to have a CVT in the US? Not sure if the craigslist seller is confused, correct or maybe scamming. (They also came with a 5MT but never a CVT)
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Sep 6, 2012 06:37
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:There was one instance where fine knock learn stayed at -1.4* for about 5-7 sec. I guess I wont worry. I wonder what my logs would look like from when I was auto crossing on the stock map in the desert That sounds fine. If you want to see knock correction put it back on the stock map.
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Sep 6, 2012 08:43
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steady posted:Tried using higher octane fuel? I wish. Colorado doesn't have more than 91 cause of the altitude. Sadly I don't think any of the gas station octane boosters will increase AKI by more than 0.1-0.3, but if I'm wrong and there is a great brand let me know! A tank of gas is at least 55 bucks. Another five isn't going to break the bank. And I don't feel like adding toluene either 
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 17:54
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Posting twice in a row is lame, but.. Finally did a WOT run in third in S mode, so target boost 14.7 I think. The run was clean! No feedback or fine knock, DAM=1 throughout, and dynamic advance was between 4 and 5 and consistent, which I have read is good. I didn't get to log a fourth gear pull, but perhaps next week.  I'm sure I will be assaulting you all with more questions, but thanks again for the help.
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Sep 7, 2012 01:09
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Posting twice in a row is lame, but.. So... When are you going stage 2 with a pro tune?
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Sep 7, 2012 04:19
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nm posted:A 2005-2009 OB with an auto will either have a 4 speed auto (2.5NA) that is really solid if not exactly refined or fuel-efficient or a 5 speed auto (turbo or H6) that I don't know much about but I haven't heard anything bad about. My wife's 99 Forrester has had its AT rebuilt once. Looking at used Legacies now and don't want to be burned by expensive tranny repairs.
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Sep 7, 2012 15:10
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My Turn in concepts Lateral Link Bushings have arrived (thanks Jamal!) Question, do I need to lubricate them before I Install?
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Sep 7, 2012 22:11
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Amandyke posted:So... When are you going stage 2 with a pro tune? It's only a matter of time and figuring out how to do it in a way that I feel safe ish. Also I should try S# (1.2 bar target) first I suppose.
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Sep 8, 2012 01:27
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daslog posted:My Turn in concepts Lateral Link Bushings have arrived (thanks Jamal!) They're supposedly "graphite empregnated". Mine squeaked like a son of a oval office when I put them in. When I sheared off the lovely steel lateral links, I greased up the bushings with a chassis grease my dad has and threw them in the aluminum links. Quiter, but still squeaky when cold. Ideally, get some pine wood derby graphite or some poo poo, and throw that loving everywhere on the bushings and links, go from there.
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Sep 8, 2012 03:23
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c355n4 posted:It looks like a mockup/test piece to me. I think you can still see the sharpie writing on the tubes. Primitive Racing has been around a looooooooooooong time. I haven't thought about it in 2 days but not 10 minutes ago it popped into my head that it was probably a mock up. What I get for not actually checking out the site.
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Sep 8, 2012 08:42
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Flyinglemur posted:Speaking of posting data logs, I thought if one or two of you had a moment to look at this you could tell me what the gently caress: Your knock events are all in very, very low revs (<2000) - at that range, it is probably just something rattling that has resulted in your knock tables pulling -1.4. Everything I've read, unless you're making ridiculous low end torque (like 300+ lb/ft) and have the in-cylinder pressures to justify your worries, you can safely ignore knock below 2500 rpm. Even with your foot to the floor, since boost is usually well below target (unless you have godly quick spool or are doing a 6th gear pull or something silly - looking at your log this is not the case), knock in this range can safely be disregarded unless you're pulling more than 1.4* frequently. Basically, at that rpm you travel through a lot of different little harmonics - you may even be able to hear some rattling; You're also lugging the motor if you're flooring it at 1500 rpm - it probably won't hurt anything, but it really isn't made for WOT at that rev. All of that rough running and rattling will trigger the knock sensor. A well-tuned stock turbo will make peak cylinder pressure at around 2900-3500 rpm (wherever your peak torque is). That is the range where ringlands get broken and bearings get spun, particularly if you have a bad tune. Don't floor it there in higher than 4th gear on the regular and you'll keep your motor happy (or sacrifice some torque for the sake of safety if you do like to do that). If you DO see any knock events with moderate to high load (>2 g/rev) in the range of your peak torque, then it's time to back off and address the problem - for example, if you're tuning yourself and see this, pull some timing and add some fuel in that range, then incrementally back it off to see what triggers the knock. You might also have a mechanical issue, and seeing bad knock like that means it's time to look around and see if anything has come disconnected. Check and see if you're running leaner than usual, as lean running will kill your motor quicker than most things - the stock O2 sensor will give you at least some vague idea (compare "A/F sensor 1" to "A/F Commanded" in your logs). The Accessport will also allow you to pull up to 5 degrees off your entire map without a computer present if you have a bad tank of fuel (under the "tune" section) - you can even do this with a pro-tune. Lastly, an EGT and AFR gauge are your best friends if you're paranoid or doing your own tuning; buy them, log them when the car is healthy, and pull them out to compare every once in a while to see if things are running okay. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Sep 8, 2012 |
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Sep 8, 2012 19:45
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Slow is Fast posted:They're supposedly "graphite empregnated". The standard tic bushings have graphite, the new softer enthusiast bushings do not. Mine have been in for about 18mo, no noise at all. Actually the only thing that ever makes noise are the front swaybar bushings. They are due for some re-lubrication. With urethane bushings, you don't want to use a standard petroleum grease because it can corrode the urethane. The energy suspension stuff is pretty good and easy to find.
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Sep 8, 2012 20:03
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All right, question of my own. What on earth could be making my car make a "whupp-ting" sound while driving? Sort of sounds like someone hocking into an old west spittoon, or a length of rope being pulled rapidly followed by the same tinging sound. I cannot tell where it's coming from precisely - I thought it might be from the external wastegate or dump tube somehow (fuel condensing and exploding inside the wastegate or the dump tube), since there's no knock event being recorded, and it happened right after I did a 3rd gear 2000-6000 rpm pull on the highway, since I noticed the car felt down on power slightly. It sounded like it came from underneath the middle of the car, with no particular regularity, and no impact on the function of the car as far as I can tell (oh how wrong I was). Edit: Oh poo poo. Take a look at this log and tell me what you see wrong AI  .https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ArOo22K8U9dEdEdlcGs0aElFa093b2ZGZ1FSZUxlRGc&output=html AVCS is completely non-functional now, for reasons unknown. Went from working fine to nothing at all in a day. Game over man, game over. Can't believe I didn't get a loving CEL notifier after driving almost 20 miles with something so obviously wrong. Oil changes with full synthetic religiously every 2500 miles or less - checking it now (2400 miles in - going in for a change this week even), the level is still completely fine, but the color is quite dark. Motor made it 61,000 miles - and didn't die of a ringland either. I thought this was supposed to be a solved issue as well. Hopefully it can somehow be saved (maybe something just clogged and I found it in time), but I really doubt it. I just datalogged 1 day ago, and found no issues, so here's hoping I'll get this fixed under warranty, especially since this seems to be a non-modification related failure. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Sep 9, 2012 |
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Sep 8, 2012 21:27
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Subaru Outback in its natural habitat: Yes, I set the tent up by headlight. I was stuck at work a few hours later than I wanted to be. 
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Sep 9, 2012 17:44
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BobTheFerret posted:
I'm not sure what the sound could be but it's weird that avcs would stop working without a cel. I'd start by just re-flashing the ecu and checking the cam sensor and avcs connectors.
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Sep 9, 2012 20:13
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Will give that a try Jamal - is there any way to make sure the cams/AVCS are actually getting oil though? Where should I check for a clog on an 09? I wanna be sure it's safe to actually run the engine. The engine definitely does not sound like normal, but not like it's louder than usual or knocking. I'm also pretty shocked I wasn't knocking like crazy with AVCS non-functional - my logs are almost completely clean. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 9, 2012 |
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Sep 9, 2012 21:59
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You can check the filter on the passenger side but not the driver's without pulling the timing belt, cam gears, and rear cover. It will be the banjo on the head that feeds the avcs solenoid. To get the filters out I jam a pick or small screwdriver into the side of the banjo (this ruins the filter). This is a wrx and what parts do you have on it? I think they got rid of the filters on the newer cars.
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Sep 9, 2012 22:31
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It's an 09 STI, so it has dual AVCS. I thought the filters were gone too, hence clogging shouldn't be possible, so I'm wondering what the deal is. Trying to find a diagram of the AVCS oil pathways - thinking about it more, I don't know if simultaneously losing both intake and exhaust AVCS function in BOTH heads at once is even possible. I'm quite heavily modified, but only in terms of intake, exhaust (downpipe, EWG), and fueling modifications (large injectors, large fuel pump, E85). I haven't added or removed anything (aside from basic maintenance stuff, spark plugs, and a bigger topmount) in 45k miles. Nothing in the oiling system has been touched - stock turbo has been removed once, for a port and polish, at 17k mi, and that's really the only part I can think of that is part of the oiling system and was touched. Is there any oil additive I could use to try to safely break up/redissolve any materials that may have gathered, just in case that is the issue?
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Sep 9, 2012 23:33
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There should be no filters, Subaru stopped putting them in at the 05. And Lord do I know about THAT one, I had to take the AVCS apart last year on the 06, no filters. On AVCS, I found if one side failed,the other side would copy whatever was going on on the failed side and both would be marked as failed. In the end after a great deal of frustration and WTF I simply found dirty / wet electrical connections. Try to clean them first. Also, the AVCS I found was no problem to keep using the car in a fail mode but your milage may vary. It is very odd tho the engine hasnt gone into limp home mode tho as it should do.
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Sep 9, 2012 23:46
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Ahhh, hmm, that makes a lot more sense then that both sides would seem to have failed if they copy one another. I'll check the connections. Here's hoping it's something as simple as that. Car has been taken off road quite a bit, in some very dusty areas, so it certainly seems possible.
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Sep 9, 2012 23:59
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Well they certainly used the filters later than 05 here. We didn't even get avcs until 04 and that was only the sti. But anyway, oil lines to the avcs is not the problem. The exhaust side doesn't even have external lines. The ports are built into the heads and the solenoid is in a block bolted to the bottom. Anyhow, I'd say look closely at the wiring. There are 8 plugs total for the avcs. one for each cam sensor and one for each solenoid. You should also look at the harness at the main connector especially since it is close to your turbo/wastegate and something could have melted.
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Sep 10, 2012 00:20
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Safety Dance posted:Subaru Outback in its natural habitat: That looks nothing like portland.
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Sep 10, 2012 00:45
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Powershift posted:That looks nothing like portland. Not enough lesbians around it.
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Sep 10, 2012 01:23
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kylej posted:Not enough lesbians around it. Or dogs.
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Sep 10, 2012 01:37
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kylej posted:Not enough lesbians around it. toplitzin posted:Or dogs. I'll try better next time, but I have no idea where I can rent/hire a couple of dogs.
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Sep 10, 2012 10:51
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It needs to be made official but I bought an 08 Legacy SE with 79K on the clock. They claim mostly highway due to the gal driving back and forth to home and I believe it based on the appearance. No leaks, fluids looked good, clean carfax, exhaust system has notable rust but everything else looked pretty good underneath. My last Subaru was an SVX which I adored. Hope this will be as good a car with a better transmission of course. The only thing that got my attention was a tiny bump in the steering near dead center. That is when moving the wheel it had a little hiccup. If that sounds familiar to anyone I'd appreciate any guesses on what it might be. No other steering sounds or squealing and like I said, I didn't see any stray fluid under the car or hood. Engine was dusty so it had not been cleaned.
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Sep 10, 2012 20:19
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Does anyone know when the XV Crosstreks are going to start showing up at dealerships? My parents are starting the process of evaluating replacements for my mom's Vibe and it seems like the XV Crosstrek is the perfect modern day replacement. She really doesn't want something larger than the Vibe, but at the same time it needs to be easy to get in and out of. The current line of small hatchbacks really don't hit that mark, they all sit too low to the ground. This is for both her and the fact that she needs to shuttle my grandmother around who has two bad knees and can't bend very easily. The other issue is their driveway is a pretty steep angle so decent ground clearance is needed. I actually can't get in and out of it with either of my stock height WRXs. I end up bottoming out and scraping. The Forester is a possibility and I know on paper it isn't all that significantly larger than the Vibe, but to her it looks too much like an SUV and I know she would like the Crosstrek better from an aesthetic standpoint.
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Sep 10, 2012 23:13
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BobTheFerret posted:Ahhh, hmm, that makes a lot more sense then that both sides would seem to have failed if they copy one another. I'll check the connections. Here's hoping it's something as simple as that. Car has been taken off road quite a bit, in some very dusty areas, so it certainly seems possible. Any updates? If there's no CEL I want to think it's more of an ecu/tune related issue. One thing that does come to mind is a cracked oil pickup not providing the avcs with enough oil pressure. You wouldn't happen to have an oil pressure gauge would you? I'm starting to think that should be mandatory for anyone with a newer turbo subaru.
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Sep 10, 2012 23:23
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bull3964 posted:Does anyone know when the XV Crosstreks are going to start showing up at dealerships?
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Sep 10, 2012 23:36
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