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whatever7
Jul 26, 2001

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

bull3964 posted:

I guess I'm confused about the Fuji lenses being so cheap compared to first party Sony lenses. Am I looking at the wrong things?

For example, the XF 35mm f/2 R WR Lens is listed for $399 which is the exact same price I paid for the SEL35F18. The Fuji 27mm f2,8 pancake lens is the exact same price as I paid for my SEL20F28 pancake. The Fuji 55-200 zoom is more expensive than the 55-210 E mount zoom (thought the Fuji is faster.)

Granted, there are a lot more X mount choices, but I'm not seeing the dramatic price difference that people are talking about.

Sony also has a few cheap 3rd party options out there. You can get the Sigma 30mm F2.8 for only $169 and the Sigma 19mm F2.8 for $199 and those are both supposed to be really great primes (if not super fast.) Soon, the Sigma 30mm F1.4 will be available for $339.

Right now you can go into Best Buy and pay $849 for the A6000 with both the 16-50 kit lens and the 55-210mm zoom. Regardless on how people feel about the kit lens, that's still a very low entry point for a body with lenses to cover you from 16 to 210mm. If you are working with a $1500 budget, that leaves you with about $600 for primes. You could easily add the 30mm f1.4 Sigma and either the 19 or 60mm Sigma on top of the kit and 55-210 zoom and stay under budget.

I was cross shopping the X-T10 and the A6000 and it seemed to me that the A6000 was the overall cheaper package even when I took into account the primes that I wanted to buy. It was my first interchangeable lens camera so I didn't really have any sort of brand preference.

The 2 Sigma cheap lens are really the only advantage Sony APSC E mount has over the Fuji X mount.

But they are really slow so you might as well get the Fuji 18-55 2.8-4. Outside of those Fuji pretty much have Sony APSC E lens beat across the board.

You should compare the Sony 55-210 to the Cheaper Fuji 50-230, not the 55-200mm. The 55-200mm is a mid tier zoom with better color reproduction.

And compare the Sony 20/2.8 to the Fuji 18/2.0, not the 27mm pancake. The pancake actually go on sale all the time you can get it for $200.

There are other minor things too. I can use the Olympus lens cap 9mm lens on E body with an adopter but I can't find an adopter for Fuji.

You know the main difference is Fuji doesn't care about gaining market share in entry level bodies and lens. Fuji see no profit in it. So I understand its hard to recommend first time buyers to start with a Fuji system. But you have had system camera before and want to start out with better gears then X system make a lot more sense.

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timrenzi574
Sep 11, 2001

whatever7 posted:


You know the main difference is Fuji doesn't care about gaining market share in entry level bodies and lens. Fuji see no profit in it. So I understand its hard to recommend first time buyers to start with a Fuji system. But you have had system camera before and want to start out with better gears then X system make a lot more sense.

It's not an unwise choice. Unseating the CaNikon juggernaut from entry level ILC's is not an easy endeavor to undertake. Fuji doesn't have a huge market share, but they have a lot of products that seem like they are profitable and are popular with enthusiasts in their niche they've carved out.

windex
Aug 2, 2006

One thing living in Japan does is cement the fact that ignoring the opinions of others is a perfectly valid life strategy.

LiquidRain posted:

When I was talking about DR in my G+ post I was referring to this earlier photo I took which still had another 1 to 2 stops left in the highlights around the sun to pull in had I chosen to. At that point I'd had my 7D and EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/4L for years, and I am confident that without bracketing I wouldn't have had the highlight detail or the resolution in the shadows I had with the Fuji - it'd have been one or the other. The 7D hated facing the sun, and the Fuji was a great upgrade in that regard. You can compensate, yes, but there's nothing like pulling in the highlights to see the wisps of my butts around the sun.

So yes, that's the end product I made, here's the Silkypix JPEG presumably equal to out-of-camera JPEG, and for shits and giggles here's a recklessly pulled down export from Lightroom to show how much color was still in the highlights.

I am totally going to nail you back with an EOS M3 photo that was facing the sun for fun. I am going to link these because they are full size jpegs.

I dislike HDR modes/software conversions because they do poo poo like this: http://photog.kthx.jp/p/ettl_example/ettl_hdr_comparison.jpg

Note: This has a lens correction profile applied which I neglected to apply to the series below.

So, let's forget that. Let's use the one of that set most overexposed.

Here's the original: http://photog.kthx.jp/p/ettl_example/ettl_orig.jpg



Using the image most exposed to the left in lightroom, I quickly tried three totally bullshit methods of recovering the image.

First, I overexposed the image by 1 1/3rd stop and drug down the whites and highlights, as well as the blacks a bit. This failed to recreate the HDR look: http://photog.kthx.jp/p/ettl_example/ettl_one.jpg



Second, I left the exposure alone and tweaked the highlights/shadows/whites/blacks, this really cannot compensate for the golden hue of the sun: http://photog.kthx.jp/p/ettl_example/ettl_two.jpg



Third, I drug the exposure down and blew out the blacks and this looks fine (at least, better than the HDR with similar characteristics): http://photog.kthx.jp/p/ettl_example/ettl_three.jpg



Because this is a Canon sensor, like every Canon sensor: the blacks and shadows lack detail, so there is some grain in those areas you probably will not notice or care about as a composition as a whole.

But, if I take that third image and drag down the exposure even further to -4: http://photog.kthx.jp/p/ettl_example/ettl_four.jpg



I have plenty of detail in highlights on the most overexposed in the set off my shittiest camera.

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

It just occured to me that the XPro2 has to be a really awesome camera for astrophotography because you can frame your shots with the optical viewfinder instead of pointing the camera in a general direction and then wasting time adjusting your shots after you take them. The improved sensor should also help. If anyone gets an XPro2 and has the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm or any other good astro lens please confirm this!

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Animal posted:

It just occured to me that the XPro2 has to be a really awesome camera for astrophotography because you can frame your shots with the optical viewfinder instead of pointing the camera in a general direction and then wasting time adjusting your shots after you take them. The improved sensor should also help. If anyone gets an XPro2 and has the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm or any other good astro lens please confirm this!

Maybe I'm fundamentally misunderstanding what you're saying, but what's the difference between framing with OVF and EVF? I would figure that EVF is actually going to be preferred for this. No way will my Xpro1 frame what my 8mm Rokinon is going to show me. Unless the Xpro2 does something drastically different, I mean.

I specifically bought the 8mm for astro so I'm really curious to hear your thoughts as I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

The EVF/LCD only shows you what the sensor can see. Astro requires very long exposures. You need over 15 seconds to even begin resolving some celestial bodies. Some of the stuff you can see with your naked eye, your EVF wont show. So while the EVF can show you certain very bright stars it can be difficult to get the framing right for the stuff the sensor is not seeing. You point the camera in the direction and then adjust your frame after you take your first shots. This can be very tedious especially when you are using a star tracking mount because readjusting the camera's position can take the mount off polar alignment.

Presumably an OVF is gonna have a much clearer view of your aim point, it should help with accurate framing, as opposed to trying to find bright stars with the EVF or LCD screen and pointing the camera in in a guesstimated direction.

-edit-
Since you are shooting with a fisheye it wont be a big deal as you are going for a very wide picture, but if you are using a longer lens, with a smaller aperture, it can be very difficult to frame your shots.

Animal fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Mar 7, 2016

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Excellent points, thanks!

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






perhaps a DSLR is more suited for this job

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

spankmeister posted:

perhaps a DSLR is more suited for this job

Maybe so, but I haven't used a DSLR I have not hated. Sony A7S II is great for astro and the sensor is good enough for framing and even focusing, but I hate Sony cameras. Or more specifically, I hate their software and general user interface.

Animal fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Mar 7, 2016

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

Animal posted:

The EVF/LCD only shows you what the sensor can see. Astro requires very long exposures. You need over 15 seconds to even begin resolving some celestial bodies. Some of the stuff you can see with your naked eye, your EVF wont show. So while the EVF can show you certain very bright stars it can be difficult to get the framing right for the stuff the sensor is not seeing. You point the camera in the direction and then adjust your frame after you take your first shots. This can be very tedious especially when you are using a star tracking mount because readjusting the camera's position can take the mount off polar alignment.

Presumably an OVF is gonna have a much clearer view of your aim point, it should help with accurate framing, as opposed to trying to find bright stars with the EVF or LCD screen and pointing the camera in in a guesstimated direction.

-edit-
Since you are shooting with a fisheye it wont be a big deal as you are going for a very wide picture, but if you are using a longer lens, with a smaller aperture, it can be very difficult to frame your shots.

The OVF isn't gonna be all that accurate with something like a rokinon 12mm since its very wide and has no electronics in it to provided focused distance for frame adjustment. Longer lens sure that would probably work.

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

Yeah the point is for using longer lenses. And even with a wide angle should be useful to accurately aim the center of the lens.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Actually, the fact that you can boost the output in the evf or lcd screen makes non OVF stuff better for astrophotgraphy poo poo.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
What can I use to polish scratches out of an XPro1 LCD? I have a replacement screen protector but the base plastic or glass layer has a few scratches. Brasso or what?

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc
Supposedly toothpaste is the thing to use. I clearly have not tried (since I sold you that xpro) so ymmv.

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

Mr. Despair posted:

Actually, the fact that you can boost the output in the evf or lcd screen makes non OVF stuff better for astrophotgraphy poo poo.

That has not been my experience. A lot of the time the EVF or LCD can't pick up faint celestial objects that the naked eye can, no matter what settings you change. It gets worse with "slow" lenses.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

8th-snype posted:

Supposedly toothpaste is the thing to use. I clearly have not tried (since I sold you that xpro) so ymmv.

I only buy the fancy useless gel kind :[

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc
A travel sized tube of OG Colgate is probably $1 at a convenience store.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
I spent money on camera and lenses, I have no bucks. Wah wah.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Animal posted:

That has not been my experience. A lot of the time the EVF or LCD can't pick up faint celestial objects that the naked eye can, no matter what settings you change. It gets worse with "slow" lenses.

Well, it's worked pretty great on my EM5s. Shame fuji doesn't know how to make a good camera I guess

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Mr. Despair posted:

Well, it's worked pretty great on my EM5s. Shame fuji doesn't know how to make a good camera I guess

Huh I seem to be able to pick up dim matter with my EVF just fine on the Xpro1.

It had no trouble locking onto your post, for example.

KABLAMMO

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc
Fuji added shitpost tracking to the latest firmware

MeruFM
Jul 27, 2010
fuji shitposts are much warmer in color

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Martytoof posted:

Huh I seem to be able to pick up dim matter with my EVF just fine on the Xpro1.

It had no trouble locking onto your post, for example.

KABLAMMO

Just be careful to keep your tears off of it, since it's not weather sealed at all

Aargh
Sep 8, 2004

8th-snype posted:

Supposedly toothpaste is the thing to use. I clearly have not tried (since I sold you that xpro) so ymmv.

Does not work, though my screen is now minty fresh.

spog
Aug 7, 2004

It's your own bloody fault.

8th-snype posted:

A travel sized tube of OG Colgate is probably $1 at a convenience store.

I bought photoshop so there is no need to brush my teeth - I whiten them in post.

Why yes, I am British.

Encrypted
Feb 25, 2016

What the hell is wrong with Sonys control that everyone complains about?

I mean for example in A mode, there's one scroll for aperture, one dedicated one for iso (but you can literally leave it in auto anyway), one dedicated exposure compensation wheel and it still leaves you bunch of other buttons for your customization likings.

On newer bodies you can even just leave the AF completely alone and let the 399 focus points plus face detection do its thing.

Is there something else terribly wrong with it?

Animal
Apr 8, 2003

I'm just a big baby who hates PASM dials, poo poo menu systems, and 1,000 AF options.

Ugly_Jim
Jan 23, 2004
Hello

Encrypted posted:

What the hell is wrong with Sonys control that everyone complains about?

I mean for example in A mode, there's one scroll for aperture, one dedicated one for iso (but you can literally leave it in auto anyway), one dedicated exposure compensation wheel and it still leaves you bunch of other buttons for your customization likings.

On newer bodies you can even just leave the AF completely alone and let the 399 focus points plus face detection do its thing.

Is there something else terribly wrong with it?

Try to change the focus peaking color. It takes ~6 button clicks. Also even simple things like changing metering mode or exposure compensation pop up a menu in your EVF or on the screen. But I agree that most things don't require menu diving, especially if you aren't the fiddly type.

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc
I'm sure nothing is wrong with it in a vacuum. Fuji and oly have made cameras with far more user friendly controls. The xt1 straight up feels like an old slr and for some of us that's a huge deal.

Encrypted
Feb 25, 2016

I guess I've never seen how bad it is since I just trust the magical 399 points AF since it's impossible to manual focus stuff @ 1.2 or 1.4 reliably, while leaving MF as an option with peaking just one click away.

Everything else can be done by dials without even looking :v:

whatever7
Jul 26, 2001

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Encrypted posted:

I guess I've never seen how bad it is since I just trust the magical 399 points AF since it's impossible to manual focus stuff @ 1.2 or 1.4 reliably, while leaving MF as an option with peaking just one click away.

Everything else can be done by dials without even looking :v:

As if Sony has 1.2 AF lens.

doomisland
Oct 5, 2004

Hello friends. I ended up buying a XT1 and plan to be traveling around Asia soon for 2 months. I assume I'll have no issues on buying a lens in Japan if I want and using it since a lens is a lens?

Encrypted
Feb 25, 2016

whatever7 posted:

As if Sony has 1.2 AF lens.
Yeah there are few and far between, but some of them are just hard to use with MF.

Encrypted fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Mar 10, 2016

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

doomisland posted:

Hello friends. I ended up buying a XT1 and plan to be traveling around Asia soon for 2 months. I assume I'll have no issues on buying a lens in Japan if I want and using it since a lens is a lens?

Shouldn't have any issues using it but warranty might be an issue.

whatever7
Jul 26, 2001

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

doomisland posted:

Hello friends. I ended up buying a XT1 and plan to be traveling around Asia soon for 2 months. I assume I'll have no issues on buying a lens in Japan if I want and using it since a lens is a lens?

Go ahead. Half of my lens were brought from Canada, and Thailand.

doomisland
Oct 5, 2004

Ill email Fuji on the warranty then. Good to know that's the only potential issue.

Danoss
Mar 8, 2011

doomisland posted:

Ill email Fuji on the warranty then. Good to know that's the only potential issue.

Depending on the country/region, I believe Fuji generally sees warranty on their X-series bodies and lenses as international (unless anything has changed since I last looked into it). I hear some locations are more difficult than others, but it should be relatively consistent.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Totally unrelated to my current camera, but for future reference does anyone know if Fuji will sell spare parts or will they require me to send my camera in for a $$$ out of warranty repair? Will any camera manuf., actually?

DJExile
Jun 28, 2007


Martytoof posted:

Totally unrelated to my current camera, but for future reference does anyone know if Fuji will sell spare parts or will they require me to send my camera in for a $$$ out of warranty repair? Will any camera manuf., actually?

Might depend on the part, but it can't hurt to contact them and ask.

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Nondescript Van
May 2, 2007

Gats N Party Hats :toot:

Martytoof posted:

Totally unrelated to my current camera, but for future reference does anyone know if Fuji will sell spare parts or will they require me to send my camera in for a $$$ out of warranty repair? Will any camera manuf., actually?

AFAIK they do not sell parts. I used to work next to a camera place and the main reason they did not service Fuji cameras is because they could not get parts for them. Fuji wants everything sent to their NJ repair center apparently.

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