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1999.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE - Two issues Air-con isn't working The heater works and I can blow lots of air out of the vents but there's no cool at all. Air con fuse under the dash is fine. I tapped (very briefly) the two valves on the Freon lines and both hissed with a bit of green poo poo and therefore were under at least some pressure/freon going on. Does anyone have a link to a step by step to checking the generator/compressor? Getting intermittent P0325 (Knock sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)) and P2503 - Powertrain (Charging System Low). Also max battery charge is around 12.06 or so volts I think the Knock sensor issue is secondary to the charging issue as they always happen at the same time, and a knock sensor couldn't have any effect on the charging system. After driving for a while the battery is high at around 12.6v or so but drops down in a matter of minutes. Am i right in thinking this is probably a 'replace the battery you idiot' issue? Also, for anyone who's interested: A while ago I posted my crankshaft sensor was destroyed and disconnected but seemed to be fine somehow. So far it's done a solid few thousand km without any issues that I can see. I guess a Pathfinder doesn't really need the Crankshaft sensor. Outrail fucked around with this message at 05:17 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 05:12
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Take it to autozone or whatever and have them test the alternator and the battery. If the car is running, the alternator should be producing all of the electricity that the car needs... should be putting out something like 13.8 volts when running. If that 12v reading is while it's running, that's a problem.
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May 31, 2017 05:17
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`Nemesis posted:Take it to autozone or whatever and have them test the alternator and the battery. it's up there while it's running, I'm talking about when it's been running recently (so theoretically as charged as it gets), but isn't running at the moment with the headlights on. When it's running it's up around the 14 volt mark.
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May 31, 2017 05:19
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Outrail posted:it's up there while it's running, I'm talking about when it's been running recently (so theoretically as charged as it gets), but isn't running at the moment with the headlights on. Alright yea, battery is probably toast. No obvious corrosion on the terminals? Connections are tight? If the alternator is producing proper voltage (and amperage) when the car is running, then I doubt the knock sensor issue is related to the battery. Can you clarify why you thought they were related or did I just misunderstand?
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May 31, 2017 05:32
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So recently-charged testing voltage settles at 12.06? That sounds hooped, but get it tested to be sure. Then load test the alternator with the new battery in to make sure it's got good output.
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May 31, 2017 05:34
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`Nemesis posted:Alright yea, battery is probably toast. No obvious corrosion on the terminals? Connections are tight? Yep, oh well there goes another $150 :/ I figure they're related because they always appear at the same time around once a month or so (happened maybe 4-6 times since December) on starting. The first time it happenedI also got a Camshaft issue, but that never came back. I'm thinking it's a rough start exacerbated by poor battery. Either way it's never come up on it's own, so there has to be some connection. edit: Enourmo posted:So recently-charged testing voltage settles at 12.06? That sounds hooped, but get it tested to be sure. Then load test the alternator with the new battery in to make sure it's got good output. Yeah, I figure something like that that was the answer but wanted to be sure.
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May 31, 2017 05:37
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Yeah uh, for what it's worth, Nissan used absolute garbage knock sensors for a long time. I'd be shocked (and very suspicious) if a 90s Nissan wasn't throwing a knock sensor code. It seems even Nissan knew that. Most makes will turn on the check engine light and put the car into limp mode when a knock sensor goes bad. On non-turbo Nissans of that era, a bad knock sensor doesn't turn on the CEL, it just stores the code and pretends the sensor wasn't ever there. It doesn't pull timing, or throw the vehicle into limp. You would never have any clue that the knock sensor was bad unless you pulled codes on a whim. Which is how I discovered it on my Altima... then spent a few months and some money trying to fix it before giving up and just dealing with it always spitting a knock sensor code. If you do decide to replace the knock sensor, use an OEM sensor, and only an OEM sensor (courtesyparts.com is local to me, I can vouch for them being good people). The cheap ones you find on ebay are a lot more sensitive than the original, and cause the ECU to pull timing so hard that you'll be lucky to break 55 MPH (personal experience), and at least in my case, my mileage went from 25-30 mpg to 10-15 mpg. That car (1999 Altima 5 speed) could normally bury the 120 mph speedometer without breaking a sweat. Once you see the price of an OEM sensor, I'm fairly sure you'll decide to just live with it spitting out P0325. it's currently $215 from Courtesy Nissan, probably closer to $300 if you just walk in to a dealer and ask for one I went through 3 cheap knock sensors on mine, and wound up giving up and just leaving it unplugged. The car ran fine without it. If it were forced induction, or something with some form of variable valve timing, or anything that wasn't a Nissan KA/VG/VQ, I'd be concerned. But the VG series engine in your Pathfinder is pretty much bombproof so long as you keep up on timing belts and basic maintenance. The code will always show up when pulling codes, but that code by itself won't turn on the CEL, and at least in my state (Texas), it passed emissions fine with that code stored (TX does an OBD2 check as part of our emissions check on 96+ vehicles, if you live in an emissions county). e: don't run a forced induction or variable valve timing engine without a knock sensor.. this only applies to naturally aspirated 90s/early 00s Nissans randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:22 on May 31, 2017 |
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May 31, 2017 09:08
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Zero VGS posted:I never need to go under it, I'm sliding the battery pack out to work on it, sliding it under when we need to park another car, and when the pack is finished I jack up the motorcycle lift it rests on and bolt the pack on from the sides. What was the process for lifting the truck? Did you put it on the ramps first then lift the ramps or what?
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May 31, 2017 12:12
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I've been posting about this in the hot hatch thread, now there are new issues that a wider audience might be able to help me with or point me in the right direction. In January my less than one month old GTI was involved in an accident. Both drivers side bags popped, other driver was ticketed and I had no fault. I was out of state and leaving the next day so my first priority was securing a car to get home and I let my car go to the only recommended shop my insurance company had in the area. I got the car back 6 weeks later. When I picked it up I wasn't able to get a really good look over the car due to the conditions. Once I got it home and was able to wash it a whole bunch of issues stood out. I reported them immediately to my insurance company. Several months and many appraisers later I finally get clearance to get my car back to a body shop. I go with a shop of my choosing that the car would have gone to if the accident had been at home. Fast forward a little over 4 weeks now and my car is done but the body shop won't release it to me because my insurance won't pay them because they didn't take some pictures. Which leads to me getting these emails today: body shop posted:Ms redacted insurance lady insurance lady posted:Please do not provide false information to our insured. I clearly instructed what AAA needed in person with you, in email documentation, and on the estimate provided to the shop. This would be handled as any supplement for any claim – photo documentation is needed to support the additional damages. I will be calling to speak with the management there. What the gently caress do I do at this point? I now realize I should have just set the car on fire once I noticed how poor the work quality was.
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May 31, 2017 14:47
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Probably lawyer up.
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May 31, 2017 14:57
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I haven't been able to find a calculator/tool/guide that really answer this question: Will these wheels fit my 2002 Lexus IS300 with stock suspension (no lowering or fender mods)? The bolt pattern is compatible, 114.3 - but I'm worried they might be too wide. The ad says 9 but it's really 8.5 when I find the wheel online. Offset is +20mm. Tires on them are 225/40 R18. Would they fit? Would I have any issues/concerns with rubbing on the fender or anything? Is there a calculator you guys know about for this stuff?
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May 31, 2017 15:27
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How is any of this your problem? This is between the shop and insurance and you're being held as colateral.
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May 31, 2017 15:48
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:... Blah blah blah... Thankyou! I've been on two different forums trying to find someone to spell that out for me and all I've had is 'how the gently caress does it even start???' The only difference between your experience and mine is that my CEL light is always on now even if it's just the crank sensor. Either way that answers that problem, cheers.
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May 31, 2017 15:51
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fknlo posted:What the gently caress do I do at this point? I now realize I should have just set the car on fire once I noticed how poor the work quality was. Did you take any photos of it after the first sloppy job was done? Or are they asking for 'official check-in at the approved shop' photos?
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May 31, 2017 16:30
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Astonishing Wang posted:Did you take any photos of it after the first sloppy job was done? Or are they asking for 'official check-in at the approved shop' photos? Myself and the various appraisers all took a ton of photos. This is over the shop doing the re-repairs not taking pics of absolutely everything they did so that my insurance could use it when the first shop comes after them when they withhold the cost of re-repairing it from what they're still owed. I think the main issue right now is that they charged for a new radiator support or something along those lines that was causing headlight fitment issues without photographing it. Outrail posted:How is any of this your problem? This is between the shop and insurance and you're being held as colateral. Which makes it my problem. Doubly so since I'm in a rental that the other guy's insurance may or may not decide to cover since they may have covered their end of the deal with rentals during the original repair period.
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May 31, 2017 16:38
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Shop should probably start pulling your radiator back out I think. Getting the photos to satisfy the insurance companies requirements is going to be the absolute easiest way, and this is the shop's job. They know what they're getting into when they work with insurance.
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May 31, 2017 16:40
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah, look for a fuse relating to ignition/starter, but since you hear a click, probably the starter relay is engaging but then no response at all from the starter solenoid or motor. It could be the battery is so severely drained the solenoid can't even engage, but you've got lights on the dash etc. Normally with a battery that got a little too low from leaving a light on, you'd hear the engine struggling to turn over but failing to crank enough to start, at least with the first try. Each attempt further drains the battery of course. Hooking up another car for a jump should have at least gotten you to that point as well (actually you should immediately get vigorous turning over) so give it another try, but my guess is still that you've got something going on with the starter stuff and it's not just a dead battery. Lucky for me it started this AM when I gave it a longer charge time to the wife's subaru. Kept her revving it about 2k RPM while I started it, and it got going. No other issues, drove it around a half hour before parking it at my work. So now if it's dead when I try to drive home this afternoon, then that's a problem beyond a drained battery. But for now, I'm thinking it was one of a couple things: 1) I didn't give it enough time to charge yesterday before starting 2) I didn't seat the jumper clamps well on the terminals.
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May 31, 2017 17:00
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Outrail posted:1999.5 Nissan Pathfinder SE - Two issues We got an AC thread here in AI.
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May 31, 2017 17:49
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kid sinister posted:We got an AC thread here in AI. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944 It's archived, though, so no use posting in it.
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May 31, 2017 17:55
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Safety Dance posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944 drat. Somebody tell Motronic to make a new one. 'Tis the season.
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May 31, 2017 18:00
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Pander posted:Checked my fuses, none were blown. I'm still a bit confused by what you mean when you say "enough time to charge." When you jump a car, the donor car's battery and alternator are providing the electricity to start your car. Once it's running if you disconnect the jumper cables and your car instantly dies, that could be due to the battery being so drained plus you're not revving high enough to get enough power from your own car's alternator to supply a spark to the spark plugs... but that's secondary, and I think pretty unlikely because even at idle an alternator should provide enough power to keep the engine running. It sounds more to me like maybe the cables weren't seated or something. If it's dead when you try to drive home this afternoon, it could well be your own battery still. Because car batteries hate hate hate being deep cycled. But yeah it could also be an alternator issue. You'll need to have both tested to be sure.
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May 31, 2017 18:02
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Leperflesh posted:I'm still a bit confused by what you mean when you say "enough time to charge." When you jump a car, the donor car's battery and alternator are providing the electricity to start your car. Once it's running if you disconnect the jumper cables and your car instantly dies, that could be due to the battery being so drained plus you're not revving high enough to get enough power from your own car's alternator to supply a spark to the spark plugs... but that's secondary, and I think pretty unlikely because even at idle an alternator should provide enough power to keep the engine running. In the past I would've agreed with you. But I have absolutely seen a car (Toyota Matrix) that had a perfectly fine alternator and a battery that was so chooched it stalled at highway speeds.
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May 31, 2017 18:31
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kid sinister posted:drat. Somebody tell Motronic to make a new one. 'Tis the season. Whoops. Resurrected: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3822245
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May 31, 2017 18:48
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Motronic posted:Whoops. Resurrected: Thank you!
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May 31, 2017 18:49
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The car: 2003 Mercury Marauder. Im removing the front bumper in order to put an engine hoist in position to pull the engine out. These plastic grating things are in the way of the last 4 inches I need to put the hoist right over the middle of the longblock. I need advice on how to remove this grating thing.  Whats holding the grating in are these metal rivet looking things that are hard to photograph properly.  So far as I can tell, No aspect of these are threaded. Also, if I try to pop them out like Ford plastic fender retainers the head bends and my main means of leverage goes away with it. I don't think they're designed to pop out. Also, a couple of these are completely surrounded by that plastic grating thing so getting a pair of boltcutters to them would be nearly impossible. Is there some stupid trick to getting these things out I haven't noticed yet? How would drilling these out work if that turns out to be the option? Is pulling the whole front bumper off just going to be easier, anyway? Am I going to gently caress up the airbags if the front bumper comes off?
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May 31, 2017 22:18
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Breakfast Feud posted:What was the process for lifting the truck? Did you put it on the ramps first then lift the ramps or what? Jack up the front, place ramps under front tires, jack up back, put ramps under back tires, then I went around using the jack directly on the underside of each ramp to lift them an inch and place lumber on the front and back of the ramp. That way the middle underneath each ramp has room to put the jack for adjustments. It's been up there a month with no trouble even when I climb in the cabin.
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Jun 1, 2017 00:57
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Jun 1, 2017 02:11
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I was poking around my mom's new 2017 BMW X3 and there's a factory pouch secured in the cargo area with a bottle of oem oil and an oem paper funnel. Why does a brand new vehicle come with oil? I've never seen that in any other new car.
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Jun 1, 2017 02:58
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Their turbos consume more oil than should be reasonable. My 335 needed a quart after about 9k. The performance specialist said some of the M cars will burn a quart every 2k. No idea. But it's not uncommon.
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Jun 1, 2017 03:38
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Pympede posted:I was poking around my mom's new 2017 BMW X3 and there's a factory pouch secured in the cargo area with a bottle of oem oil and an oem paper funnel. They don't come with a dipstick, just give you a warning on the dash when it's low. People don't like to drive with the car complaining about it being low on oil. And chances are it's some BMW branded $20qt 5w-50 dealer only oil. Also 1qt in 9k miles is not bad. Both my toyotas use about that much, maybe even more. Even a quart every 2k isn't that bad. It's a problem when it's a quart every 1k or less according to most manufacturers. It's really a problem when it's a quart every tank of gas.
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Jun 1, 2017 03:45
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Deleted.
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Jun 1, 2017 03:46
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rdb posted:Also 1qt in 9k miles is not bad. Both my toyotas use about that much, maybe even more. Even a quart every 2k isn't that bad. It's a problem when it's a quart every 1k or less according to most manufacturers. It's really a problem when it's a quart every tank of gas. A quart per tank of gas is approaching a rolling EPA Superfund site. Or it will be whenever you have to drop the exhaust, anyway.  My Saturn with ~175k uses about a quart and a half in 9k, so long as I stick to Mobil 1. Anything else (even synthetic) and that turns into 4 quarts, which quickly offsets the savings with using cheaper oil. I'm pretty happy with a high mileage car that uses <2 quarts between long oil change intervals. It's been about 4k since my last oil change, it's right on the full mark. It's generally slightly above the full mark immediately after an oil change. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jun 1, 2017 |
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Jun 1, 2017 06:14
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:A quart per tank of gas is approaching a rolling EPA Superfund site. Been there done that, times two. 
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Jun 1, 2017 06:38
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You and me both man. My Integra would have made James Bond blush anytime I let off the gas. That thing was f-u-k-t, but it was so much fun smoking out anyone who decided to park on my rear bumper on the highway - just knock it down a gear and let off the gas. It was a bitch to get running after it'd been sitting overnight though, I'd occasionally have to pull the plugs and spray them down with brake cleaner (it would run on 2-3 cylinders on a cold start until it started warming up if it'd only sat overnight.. sitting longer meant pulling the plugs). I wound up giving the car to a friend in exchange for him doing a clutch job on another car; he called me a week later and told me that the cat was full of oil. My F-150 had built in rust prevention - for the truck and for several cars behind me.  When I drove it around town, I had to throw at least 1 quart in every day. When I moved from El Paso to Dallas, I think I used 8 quarts (bought a case of SAE 60 before leaving town). It didn't really burn that much (it would smoke for a couple of minutes on a cold start, but once it warmed up it didn't smoke at all), but the rear main seal was basically gone. Supposedly the 351M had a pressurized rear main.
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Jun 1, 2017 07:21
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:My F-150 had built in rust prevention - for the truck and for several cars behind me. My story is similar to that; it would leak rather than burn. But it would leak onto the flexplate, which flung the oil onto the headers. I was driving back down to the bay area from Portland, which is I think about 700 miles. I left with 13 quarts of spare oil in the trunk, and got to my destination with 2 left.
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Jun 1, 2017 07:41
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rdb posted:
That oil consumption is worse than any vehicle I've ever owned, including a 51 year old 327 with a leaking rear main and valve stem seals.
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Jun 1, 2017 07:44
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:My F-150 had built in rust prevention - for the truck and for several cars behind me. Raluek posted:My story is similar to that; it would leak rather than burn. But it would leak onto the flexplate, which flung the oil onto the headers. I was driving back down to the bay area from Portland, which is I think about 700 miles. I left with 13 quarts of spare oil in the trunk, and got to my destination with 2 left. These drives are almost precisely the same distance, so Raluek has the dubious honor of winning. I didn’t know there were vehicles capable of burning so much oil and still going from A to B. 
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Jun 1, 2017 07:53
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There was a car in the 70s in Australia called the Leyland P76, which was going to try to compete against the other big, 6/8 cylinder sedans. Its claim to fame was that you could easily fit a 44 gallon drum in the boot (trunk). Unfortunately, it also got famous for its British Leyland straight-6 using around a litre of oil every hundred kilometres out of the factory, and combined with the ongoing Oil Crisis, it ended up being unpopular as hell and labeled one of Australia's biggest lemons. It gathered this honour the year after being named Wheels Magazine's Car of the Year.
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Jun 1, 2017 08:36
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Platystemon posted:These drives are almost precisely the same distance, so Raluek has the dubious honor of winning.  Yeah, I guess he does win this one.I'll get you next time Raluek... next time.
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Jun 1, 2017 09:10
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Platystemon posted:These drives are almost precisely the same distance, so Raluek has the dubious honor of winning. Like I said, it wasn't actually burning it (in the combustion chamber, at least) as far as I could tell. That motor was fuckt though. Don't buy "just rebuilt!" motors from Craigslist randoms, kids
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Jun 1, 2017 09:40
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