Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

bawfuls posted:

Could use some AI advice on paint/epoxy/other sealant options for a cement garage floor.

Wife and I are in escrow on our first home and it has a pretty sizable garage which will be great fun to get dialed in for car projects.

Major work may have to wait as we prioritize what needs to get done asap on the house, but for the garage specifically it seems to me the easiest time to do the floor is while it's empty and not full of all our poo poo.

My buddy said to avoid Home Depot for this and get a kit from an industrial supplier like this one.

So who's done the epoxy floor thing, any horror/success stories? It sounds like prep is the most important part, not unlike painting a car.

Garage Journal has hundreds of threads about this. Don't do Home Depot.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Galler
Jan 28, 2008


bawfuls posted:

Could use some AI advice on paint/epoxy/other sealant options for a cement garage floor.

Wife and I are in escrow on our first home and it has a pretty sizable garage which will be great fun to get dialed in for car projects.

Major work may have to wait as we prioritize what needs to get done asap on the house, but for the garage specifically it seems to me the easiest time to do the floor is while it's empty and not full of all our poo poo.

My buddy said to avoid Home Depot for this and get a kit from an industrial supplier like this one.

So who's done the epoxy floor thing, any horror/success stories? It sounds like prep is the most important part, not unlike painting a car.

No experience with this company https://concretefloorsolutions.com/online-store/ but they from the videos they seem competent https://www.youtube.com/user/jkehnel/videos

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
I did the SPGX polyurea from Armorpoxy, and I've been really happy with it. I think I skimped on the prep on the first half of the garage, because I had a few spots that lifted off from tires over the last 4 years, but I'm hoping to do a recoat on that side of the garage this summer. I won't recoat the whole thing, I'll just do a better prep job on the spots that the tires tend to rest and recoat those spots with some overlap.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

As with all things, prep is indeed the key and special tools like concrete grinders with a very thorough clean up.

That is, however, where most of the non-pros suck because the first time they have ever done it is in their garage and just want to get it done.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Making progress on my garage refresh, every surface has finally been patched/repaired/washed/kilzed/painted around the entire garage. This corner I also added some cable raceway to protect the wiring from the basement to the 2nd floor, dmarc, attic antenna, etc.



Once I can get a non-rainy non-windy day, I’ll re-spray the upper cabinets, door trim, door, trim around the workbench, etc. It’s been a lot of work but I’m almost done. Final pictures when complete!

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Looking good, and I like the cat artwork too. I need to get out and do some cleaning myself, but I did add a little stereo setup to my garage to encourage that. Here’s a pic of my humble stall:

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
You can never have too many labels.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I find lots of colors to be helpful, particularly when trying to explain to someone else where something is.

If I am under the sink and can't move because my finger is keeping water from going everywhere (not a real scenario), when I communicate to my wife that she is looking for a "grey box with purple writing on it, label says 'widget confabulators'", it helps us both.

When I built the cabinets in my garage I made the inner panels of the Shaker doors out of white melamine so I could write contents on the doors with crayons or markers. I don't always follow through on writing down what's inside, but I do it enough that I can usually find the stuff in those cabinets. The markers and crayons both wipe away easily after application of pretty much any organic solvent (usually brake cleaner).

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 21:46 on May 3, 2022

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
I used this company and got the polyurea coating. https://www.garageflooringllc.com/garage-floor-coatings/

I put it down on a brand new garage floor after roughing it up a little with a concrete grinder, and it's held up great for the last 3 years and I didn't even do a very good job of applying it.

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius

ryanrs posted:

As a newbie welder, I am obliged fabricate shop furniture whenever the opportunity arises.



Made of steel angle and 3/8" rod, it's conservatively rated to carry 100 lbs of grinding discs.

(I pulled it off the wall this week for maintenance. It's in the paint shop getting a coat of gloss enamel in mustard yellow.)

Lovely! I should get better at making my own brackets, this looks like a great hanger!

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Maybe don't paint it. I painted mine, and I think the threads on e.g. the grinding wheels will quickly scrape off the paint. Might have been better to leave it plain.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

ryanrs posted:

Maybe don't paint it. I painted mine, and I think the threads on e.g. the grinding wheels will quickly scrape off the paint. Might have been better to leave it plain.

Eh, Paint will help the non-contact surfaces look good. Around here, it'll help prevent rust, too.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




ryanrs posted:

Maybe don't paint it. I painted mine, and I think the threads on e.g. the grinding wheels will quickly scrape off the paint. Might have been better to leave it plain.

Got an oven it will fit in? Try some gun kote https://shop.kgcoatings.com/kg/product/2417lav/

It'll still scrape eventually, but its a little harder and can be applied thinly. Also, it's more fun.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

I just bought a Quick Jack and the hangers were OOS, and also more expensive than they should have been. Has anyone improvised hangers? I'll need to either anchor to concrete or put up a 2x4 and anchor to that. Thoughts?

I also need to run some loving outlets. Two on the ceiling, one outside, two on opposing walls. All are in use or inaccessible except the outdoor one.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



carticket posted:

I just bought a Quick Jack and the hangers were OOS, and also more expensive than they should have been. Has anyone improvised hangers? I'll need to either anchor to concrete or put up a 2x4 and anchor to that. Thoughts?

I also need to run some loving outlets. Two on the ceiling, one outside, two on opposing walls. All are in use or inaccessible except the outdoor one.

Do you actually need to have them hanging off of the floor? Mine just sit on the floor and then have chains halfway up to hold them to the wall.

Edit: here's a pic of my setup

tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 23:53 on May 4, 2022

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

Nope. I haven't unboxed them yet, so didn't have any idea what I'd need. Something like that would be pretty easy for me to do

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I have left mine on the floor from day one. I just pushed them closer together so I can drive over them with no problem at all. If the hoses are a pain they are on QD so you can coil them out of the way.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

I can't leave them on the floor as half my garage floor regularly gets covered in water.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

carticket posted:

I can't leave them on the floor as half my garage floor regularly gets covered in water.

Maybe copy what tangy has done but put a cinder block under each one?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Commodore_64 posted:

Got an oven it will fit in?

Actually, yes. The shop has a Not For Food Use oven. The oven and the welder have to fight over who gets the 240V outlet.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

Rhyno posted:

Maybe copy what tangy has done but put a cinder block under each one?

Oh, I meant like lying down on the floor. If I put a spot on the wall for them, they'll be fine.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Put some marine grade plywood or pressure-treated 1x12 or whatever under then and let them live on the floor.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

So, actually related. I have a bunch of water resistant drywall for a basement room and leftovers from a bathroom. The wall with the doors has a total of about 2 ft across the entire length that's not door, and in the early spring it regularly gets submerged under a few inches of water. It's insulated, and some of the drywall has been cut back, but I'm wondering if I should just remove the fiberglass insulation and put something like closed cell foam in for that bottom foot or so. After that, I'd cover it with the good drywall. Any thoughts?

E: also, to clarify, I'm not concerned about water and the quick jacks if I store them upright, because I can put them anywhere in the dry half. It's the under-car storage that won't work because of water (either the seasonal flooding or runoff from cars in winter).

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

Ha my quickjacks sit under a car in the driveway all year.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

This QJ talk reminds me though, I want to attach some UHMW pads/channel under mine to help with sliding around and placement. It's a pain in the rear end.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Finally patched, primed, and painted the third bay workbench area, along with the top cabinets. This was the last area I had to do so now my garage has been refreshed on every wall.

This grey extends to the right as an accent wall on the back wall of the double bay. Everywhere else is white with the exception of the front middle column that has the lawn equipment.

It’s been a hell of a lot of work, over 26 years of PO neglect to deal with. Original primer, basically no patching of holes, filthy, etc. Still need to paint the door but that can wait.

devmd01 fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jun 1, 2022

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

The artwork looks great and so does the painting. In the same amount of time I’ve managed to scrub my floors and replace the death trap workbench the PO left me. Thinking about one of those power strips now, but I’m unsure how sloppy I should be with the cord.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I bought 4 normal ”L” or ”U” hangers (forgot which type) and put on the wall and hang my QJ’s on them. With the spacing if the wood beams of the wall, the QJ’’s need to hang in a specific way, with the frame slightly ”open” so make sure you check how it would work for you.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I finished my mobile/modular workbench. Now I need to clean my garage and configure new homes for things so that I can put it in place. Its only a single stall garage so I don't have a ton of room but its long so the mobility is a huge benefit. I'm going to buy some hard board and enclose them on three sides to help keep whatever is being stored inside, clean. I think I'm also going to build a shelf in one or two of them.

Its way sturdier than I thought it would be, and I love the idea of being able to move them around depending on what I'm doing that day. They've got holes spaced 12" apart around all sides and front so you can join them with large bolts to create one big bench in all kinds of positions. I'll also need to mount my vise.





This is the bench I made.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MovF5vjmOQg

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug

bolind posted:

Welp/Woot! Contract signed for new garage. It's going to be eye-wateringly expensive, but the result should be worth it.

35 square meter external footprint.

I'll make sure to post pictures.

I made a whole thread about it!

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009




long way to go but there's more than just a hole in the mess that the car slotted into.

I even actually got down to a bare workbench before i started piling stuff back on it. I had ~5 pails of tools that came back out from the house after fixing stuff there over the past few years.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I tore down a wall in my garage, it had a big door in it anyway. I did this to make the place roomier. I also had a shelf full of junk that I moved into my shed which is still under construction. I am pretty certain the shed will get a concrete floor in the future and probably become a place to work on cars. Uninsulated sure, but eh. My current garage really isn't suited for working on cars...





Looks so roomy compared to how it used to be. And the new shed is getting filled up rapidly:


And last night I got the final thing to winterize the garage properly:




I've used direct electric until now.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Beautiful. Mini splits are amazing.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
High hopes for this one to put a real dent in my heating costs. It's a nordic adapted model, 100% efficiency guaranteed down to -15C and will work down to -25C before it's only as good as direct electric.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

His Divine Shadow posted:

High hopes for this one to put a real dent in my heating costs. It's a nordic adapted model, 100% efficiency guaranteed down to -15C and will work down to -25C before it's only as good as direct electric.
If your climate is anything like mine (Stockholm) you should realistically lower your annual cost for heating the shop to a given temperature to about a third compared to straight electric. "100% efficiency" isn't how heat pumps work, but in the documentation there should be a graph of the C.O.P. at various temperatures at a specific relative humidity. The lower the Δ-t you're pumping against the greater the coefficient of power in a nutshell. While they theoretically work at a C.O.P greater than 1 down to -25c you'll commonly get a bunch of icing below -15 that puts a real dent in how well they work overall, but it's still a great investment and Mitsubishi make really good units. Great looking shop by the way!

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

I just had my whole house outfitted with Mitsubishi mini-splits. It's been great for the summer. One of the units is like that one, for the room that is most exposed and the normal house heat can't keep up. Interested to see how it works out this winter. I didn't put one in the garage, but it is mostly insulated by the ground, and the exposed wall is proper insulated.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Invalido posted:

If your climate is anything like mine (Stockholm) you should realistically lower your annual cost for heating the shop to a given temperature to about a third compared to straight electric. "100% efficiency" isn't how heat pumps work, but in the documentation there should be a graph of the C.O.P. at various temperatures at a specific relative humidity. The lower the Δ-t you're pumping against the greater the coefficient of power in a nutshell. While they theoretically work at a C.O.P greater than 1 down to -25c you'll commonly get a bunch of icing below -15 that puts a real dent in how well they work overall, but it's still a great investment and Mitsubishi make really good units. Great looking shop by the way!

When I meant 100% efficiency I meant it's stated to be capable of running at max COP down to -15C which is sorta what I consider the heat pump running at 100%. Heat pumps can be confusing though. Climate here is a bit colder than Stockholm though, nearly same level as Umeå. And thanks!

I'm building an enclosure for it to cope with the potential icing issues.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

His Divine Shadow posted:

When I meant 100% efficiency I meant it's stated to be capable of running at max COP down to -15C which is sorta what I consider the heat pump running at 100%. Heat pumps can be confusing though. Climate here is a bit colder than Stockholm though, nearly same level as Umeå. And thanks!

I'm building an enclosure for it to cope with the potential icing issues.

Here's a typical COP graph:



If it's 12c outside and you want 20 in your shop the COP might be about 4.5, i.e. 1kW of electricity makes 4.5kW of heat. At -15 it's gonna be closer to 2. On the average over the year you might end up at 3 or so, possibly a bit better.

From what I can tell from your pictures that install is perfectly fine and there's no need to enclose the outside unit. The ice I mentioned is formed on the evaporator sitting inside the metal box that gets cold when the pump is running. Moisture from the air condensates like it does on a glass of ice water (there's a drain hose installed so it can drip out) but when it's cold outside, and the evaporator gets even colder than the ambient air getting blown over it by the fan this moisture doesn't drip, it freezes. Your heat pump brain will notice that this has happened and de-ice itself periodically, usually by running "backwards" as an AC for a little bit, in effect turning what is normally the evaporator into the condensor, which get hot thus melting the ice. When this is happening, you're effectively pumping heat from inside your shop to the outside in order to get rid of the ice. This de-ice cycle needs to happen more frequently the colder it gets which is why the theoretical ability to run at -25c is purely theoretical (like at unrealistically low humidity I guess) and the most common practical limit is closer to -15. I grew up north of Umeå and even there temps colder than -15 were pretty uncommon in the grand scheme of things, so your heat pump is still a great idea even if it won't work perfectly more than 97% of the time for the next 20 years or whatever.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Would appear you are right, these are the figures I found for various temps:

quote:

https://asennuspalvelu-hopiavuori.fi/tuote/mitsubishi-electric-ft35-ilmalampopumppu/
Heating power (Nominal) kW 0.9 – 6.6 (4.0)
Max -15°C kW 4.4
Max -25°C kW 3.4

Still an enclosure is still in the cards, to make it look better and to protect it from rain and snow, which I am told is beneficial for perfomance, it's still an exposed location, perhaps the one most exposed to weather and wind on the whole yard.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Most people here just build a little roof protruding over the outdoor unit if they bother doing anything at all. Whatever you do make sure nothing you build around it obstructs the airflow or causes recirculation of air through the evaporator as this will have the same effect as a lower ambient temperature and therefore hurt performance.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply