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How many miles are too many for an EJ207? Obviously it depends on how well maintained and driven it is, but is there a certain amount you wouldn't care to look at? I'm looking to replace my 2000 2.5rs which has served me well in college, but having graduated I'm ready to move on but am still on a tight budget. Bug eye WRX wagons look like a good deal, being cheaper and less likely to be abused than their sedan counterparts and the performance loss to the sedan seems minimal.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:21
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WRXes will be EJ205. There are a handful of high mileage bugeyes failing locally but it seems to mostly be oil starvation killing bearings.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:40
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Kaptainballistik posted:Ok, As I cant find a straight answer on the Interwebs. Same. And no. The Legacy/Liberty hubs are the same as a standard wrx but bolt in. 08+ impreza gets them too. They are much smaller bearings than the 05+ sti and no stronger than the press-in versions. blindjoe posted:One of the pegs is stuck in my old block. Do I need them both or will 1 and all the bolts be enough? You get it in? Block and trans have to be almost perfectly parallel, you need to make sure there isn't a peg in the block and a peg in the trans hitting each other, motor mounts need to clear the xmember, TOB needs to be fully seated on the snub of the trans, clutch disc needs to be centered, and yes, the turbo can be a close fit sometimes. Usually you can kind of angle it to get the hotside over the first ridge and then it will line up, but if you need to you can loosen it up for more room. Shouldn't be a problem with an oem turbo though. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 20:42
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Neptr posted:How many miles are too many for an EJ207? Obviously it depends on how well maintained and driven it is, but is there a certain amount you wouldn't care to look at? I'm looking to replace my 2000 2.5rs which has served me well in college, but having graduated I'm ready to move on but am still on a tight budget. Bug eye WRX wagons look like a good deal, being cheaper and less likely to be abused than their sedan counterparts and the performance loss to the sedan seems minimal. EJ207 is the JDM STI motor. You should be able to find one with less than 50k on it. Keep in mind that you have to research the swap and what it takes. I've started looking into this for my project and will update my thread as I find it out. Edit: Good info here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2385141 daslog fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 21:47
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blindjoe posted:One of the pegs is stuck in my old block. Do I need them both or will 1 and all the bolts be enough? It's best to have both pegs, otherwise the engine could rotate on the transmission a bit. The bolts don't seat very tightly like the pegs do. Your car, but personally I run with both. And this is coming from mr. shadetree mechanic. Even a slight mis-alignment will ruin the pilot bearing at the very least, possibly even the input bearing on the transmission.
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Oct 22, 2012 21:54
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Neptr posted:How many miles are too many for an EJ207? Obviously it depends on how well maintained and driven it is, but is there a certain amount you wouldn't care to look at? I'm looking to replace my 2000 2.5rs which has served me well in college, but having graduated I'm ready to move on but am still on a tight budget. Bug eye WRX wagons look like a good deal, being cheaper and less likely to be abused than their sedan counterparts and the performance loss to the sedan seems minimal. One of the guys here regularly races his 350,000km ORIGINAL engine WRX (EJ205) and sets lap records still. The engine has never been out of the car and outlasted gearboxes, diffs and 20+ sets of rotors.
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Oct 22, 2012 22:11
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Cat Terrist posted:I find this a weeeeee bit hard to believe, given a very thrashed STOCK WRX would be still going hard if it wasnt for a broken oil pickup, the engine internals at teardown were pretty much perfect other than of course what the pickup would have done. Put the highest availible octane fuel in, no problem. Like nm said, our highest octane fuel is often 91 out in the western states - and I think our stock tune must be awful compared to what you get in Australia (not sure how strict the emissions requirements are there, but you guys get a lot of cars on the road there that would never make it here, so I'm assuming much looser than what we've got). Take a look at the fueling and open-closed loop transition delays on the tune of a USDM WRX or STI of post-2008 vintage, and you'll be horrified - they are almost always running around with the advance multiplier below 1, as the stock map can apparently take advantage of octane increases all the way up to 100. While that sounds good, it means that the stock ECU map is almost constantly in learning mode, and so it will knock much more often than a map specifically designed for a particular octane that isn't constantly hunting for the correct timing. It wouldn't be a problem if fueling was adequate, which I'm guessing it probably is in your maps. I will look around and find a stock dyno pull with the AFR's just for giggles shortly. Edit: here we go. http://www.airboytuning.com/archives/37 The most dangerous part of the rev range on a stock turbo STI is around 2800-3800 rpm, where peak torque and peak cylinder pressure can typically occur. The lean-rich AFR transition occurs almost 1000 RPM AFTER that - at about 4500 rpm (drops from 14.0 down to less than 11.0). It also means that every time you shift and end up below 4500 rpm, you're doing huge lean-rich transitions. 
BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 22:58
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Cat Terrist posted:One of the guys here regularly races his 350,000km ORIGINAL engine WRX (EJ205) and sets lap records still. The engine has never been out of the car and outlasted gearboxes, diffs and 20+ sets of rotors. There are a handful of 300k+ km EJ205s in 2002+ WRXes here as well, there's just a rash of them dying over the summer as new owners learn about the value of checking a dipstick.
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Oct 22, 2012 23:09
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My bad, I meant EJ205.  Most of the ones I'm seeing on Craigslist in the New England area are 110-170K miles. So provided regular maintenance has been performed and there's no oil leaking from the seals, mileage isn't too much of an issue? Does the turbo ever go bad?
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Oct 23, 2012 01:10
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Well, I hit the U-Pull-It yard yesterday, and after scavenging from three separate cars a half mile apart from each other, I got a good set of 16" wheels for our Outback (which has corroded 15's). $76.32 with tax. All the tires are shot, but I will still get a new set of wheels and tires for around $430 after all is said and done, due to the rebates/incentives the local tire place has going on. I'll be glad to get rid of the corroded stock wheels with lovely Douglas X-Tra Trac tires...
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Oct 23, 2012 01:17
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What year of WRX is it? My '97 EJ22 is still kicking up an angry storm at 350k with poo poo compression in one cylinder and it's outlasting at least one gearbox and possibly the car's body. I'm not convinced the issues with the EJ20 don't have to do almost entirely with owner neglect. Oil issues without a failed part causing it or really high g's just smells like "I don't check my oil."
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Oct 23, 2012 01:51
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nm posted:I'm not convinced the issues with the EJ20 don't have to do almost entirely with owner neglect. There are a handful of blobeyes that have died as well but it seems like those were a lack of maintenance, a part failure or freak accidents. Mobil 1 seems to be a constant factor in a lot of oil-related failures, but I think that is confirmation bias as I can't figure out how one brand would contribute to failure more than others. JDM WRXes/STIs seem pretty drat tough (coilpacks and bad mods aside) but I'm assuming Subaru changed a lot of things about the EJ205 in order to bring it to our shores in '02. The very earliest ("2001.5") EJ205s are reportedly extremely resistant to stupid mods/detonation but I've never met an owner of them. I am still convinced the 2.5 is more stout in our gas/emissions/economy environment, however (oil pickup issues and bad tunes aside). I would love to see some actual data on this, but I think it may be impossible. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 01:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I am still convinced the 2.5 is more stout in our gas/emissions/economy environment, however (oil pickup issues and bad tunes aside). I would love to see some actual data on this, but I think it may be impossible.
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Oct 23, 2012 03:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:JDM WRXes/STIs seem pretty drat tough (coilpacks and bad mods aside) but I'm assuming Subaru changed a lot of things about the EJ205 in order to bring it to our shores in '02. The very earliest ("2001.5") EJ205s are reportedly extremely resistant to stupid mods/detonation but I've never met an owner of them. The oiling passages on the 207 crank are better than the early 205, plus they might have had the better oil pan. Also, excessive knock is just as bad for the bearing as it is the pistons, so tuning and fuel can have an effect. The stock 2.0 pistons are just better than those in the 2.5.
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Oct 23, 2012 03:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That's pretty much the problem here. As they drop under the magic $10k mark bugeyes are very quickly becoming ratbag cars with dying motors when people who really have no business owning a maintenance-intensive car are owning them and not keeping up on what it needs at its age. It is unfortunate as a clean 2002 WRB/SRP WRX sedan is something I've wanted to own but probably never will. My friend's Legacy B4 with a PowerFC'ed EJ207 did something incredibly stupid like set up his boost controller to something like 28 psi untuned with horrible fuel and the engine took it like a champ, I will never understand how it did it.
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Oct 23, 2012 05:17
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jamal posted:The oiling passages on the 207 crank are better than the early 205, plus they might have had the better oil pan. Also, excessive knock is just as bad for the bearing as it is the pistons, so tuning and fuel can have an effect. The stock 2.0 pistons are just better than those in the 2.5. Is piston slap a factor? I get it for about half a second on cold mornings and it never shows up again, and it never seems to happen within the first 2 months after an oil change (Motul Xcess WD5-40 full synth), it scares the crap of me everytime.
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Oct 23, 2012 05:19
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I am still convinced the 2.5 is more stout in our gas/emissions/economy environment, however (oil pickup issues and bad tunes aside). I would love to see some actual data on this, but I think it may be impossible. I'd disagree - the EJ20's have a looooooong proof of being highly resiliant, while we all can name dumb poo poo the EJ25 breaks with. The EJ207 I *think* also has forged internals which makes them out of the factory about a good as you are going to get.
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Oct 23, 2012 05:55
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The early 207 pistons are forged. Later (like after ver8), are cast in the same way as the 2.5 pistons. The problem with the oem forged pistons is that while they are stronger, the piston to wall clearance is very close, so if you are tracking/abusing the car and get it hot you can scuff the skirts and walls up pretty badly and even stick a piston in the bore. My personal preference (if you've got money to spend) is a sleeved 2.5 with a billet crank. Stroker and big bores optional. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 05:58
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jamal posted:Same. Damm I love AiI  After Making this car Group N legal, Then its copy the Prodrive antisurge setup. Swindon sells the rubber Oil gate flaps .
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Oct 23, 2012 09:16
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 That's not gone well. Good thing I have a spare white one! For the record, I'm perfectly OK. Was a casual rollover. Think it's fixable? (Insurance wont cover me - no collision)   I think it's time for a rally build for this one - at least it's got the history now? Just hammer out the roof enough for a windshield to fit, and throw a rollcage and all the safety stuff in. The car looks as straight as it used to, just damaged hood, fenders and roof.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:11
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You're gonna feel that in the morning for sure. Glad you're OK! Seems fixable to me, as long as the hatch and all the doors still open and close the way they used to. Sorta wondering about the windshield frame though. Maybe go to an autobody shop and get an inspection done?
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Oct 23, 2012 22:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You're gonna feel that in the morning for sure. Glad you're OK! It was actually quite slow - I don't feel anything now and I'm not sure it'll be too bad. Maybe hit the ditch doing 20 kph? All doors close perfectly, windows all still seal up nicely (except for windshield, obviously). Even the bumper seems good, small crack on the bottom but its not horribly broken. Overall I'm actually quite impressed with the way the car handled it.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:25
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What happened, ABS go nuts on snow-over-ice and you low-speed slid into that culvert?
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Oct 23, 2012 22:26
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What happened, ABS go nuts on snow-over-ice and you low-speed slid into that culvert? ABS in this car drove me nuts so I deactivated it. I was going downhill, got on the brakes to slow for a corner coming ahead and the right side dug in (slush over ice). I tried all I could to save it but it just went straight for the ditch, hit, spun me 180 and flipped me casually over onto the roof. Got out via passenger door. Quite the experience.. Hope it doesn't happen again! Edit: Obviously I'm at fault for going too fast for road conditions and I'm glad no one got hurt. Not trying to put the blame on anything else - it just sucks.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:39
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Brutal. Hopefully you learned something from it, it does indeed suck. Surprised you could get the passenger door open, looks like another victory for frameless windows. 
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Oct 23, 2012 22:43
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Definitely Not fixable.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:03
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Your frame appears to be bent, no? Seems totaled.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:06
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blargle posted:Your frame appears to be bent, no? Seems totaled. Where? The front bumper came off the one side which makes it look all wonky, and the fenders are bent in. The pillar is fine and all the doors shut properly.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:09
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The pillars look normal to me, the fender and front end are mushed but the car looks pretty straight (from the ditch picture). The wagon is so soft you'd see the entire top hoisted off to one side in the back if there was significant frame damage. The only place I'm worried about is that windshield kink.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:10
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daslog posted:Definitely Not fixable. Yes it is, not even "resonably difficult", the roof is the only real problem and that's a few hours on a porta-power. Wether it's worth and time and money, now that's a different question. And on that I'd say no, not worth it. As a starting point for a rally car, I'd say I've seen worse starting points. It'll work fine I think.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:11
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes it is, not even "resonably difficult", the roof is the only real problem and that's a few hours on a porta-power. Yes it's the roof that's the problem. In order to fix, it's all got to cut out and a new one welded in. That's cost prohibitive. Is it a WRX? It's probably worth 3 to 4k as a parts car.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:15
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You have two concerns with that car. A pillar and front right suspension. The a Pillar can be pushed out and when you cage it, they can pull the roof skin and gusset appropriately. If the alignment and suspension squares up, I'd say you can. The other option is buy a car with a blown motor/gearbox and swap yours in. Or partout to make money. But what fun is that.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:17
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Slow is Fast posted:You have two concerns with that car. A pillar and front right suspension. I have a 2002 White TS, exact same model/year, just missing an engine. I'll be swapping this into it this weekend. I'm hoping I shut the engine off in time to not roast it, it probably ran for 20-30 seconds upside down. I got out, realised it was still running, and shut it off. This black car will turn into a rally project - at least that's the plan! I think it's quite fixable.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:20
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MrZig posted:I have a 2002 White TS, exact same model/year, just missing an engine. I'll be swapping this into it this weekend. I'm hoping I shut the engine off in time to not roast it, it probably ran for 20-30 seconds upside down. I got out, realised it was still running, and shut it off. 30 seconds upside down? There is supposed to be sensor that cuts it off.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:27
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Casual rollover? What would a business casual, or formal rollover look like?
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Oct 23, 2012 23:43
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daslog posted:30 seconds upside down? There is supposed to be sensor that cuts it off. I've never heard of a Subaru with a rollover cut-off sensor. 20-30 seconds at idle, upside down? It will probably be perfectly fine.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:53
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Alphius posted:I've never heard of a Subaru with a rollover cut-off sensor. There's a ball valve somewhere in the fuel system that should cut fuel once the car is rolled over. It might even be in the filler neck, though I dunno if that would actually cut fuelling if placed there or just keep it from leaking out of the tank onto the ground.
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Oct 24, 2012 00:02
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daslog posted:Yes it's the roof that's the problem. In order to fix, it's all got to cut out and a new one welded in. That's cost prohibitive. Nope on both replace roof and probibitive cost. The pillar is a porta power or a winch attached to a tree and chain, the roof is bonded on and easily removed / replaced or straightened. I doubt the front suspension is a problem - yeah there will be a cost BUT looking at it the real issue is the time spent. It's a NA car, it's not worth the time or money to get it back on the road. But it's actually a straightforward fix, abeit gonna take some time and trail / error if you havent done it before.
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Oct 24, 2012 00:06
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Yet a Katana in the snow is no problem. You're a weird kid, Zig.
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Oct 24, 2012 00:06
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Cat Terrist posted:Nope on both replace roof and probibitive cost. The pillar is a porta power or a winch attached to a tree and chain, the roof is bonded on and easily removed / replaced or straightened. I doubt the front suspension is a problem - yeah there will be a cost BUT looking at it the real issue is the time spent. I've got friends that have done all this before and they're more than willing to help. One rolled a yellow legacy and fixed it all up, and it was in much worse shape than mine. They're a crazy bunch. And it's N/A at the moment but I have an EJ205 ready to swap in. Going to DD the white car until I can get this one fixed up and then have a proper battle wagon going on. quote:Yet a Katana in the snow is no problem. You're a weird kid, Zig. Haha yeah. Although I've dropped a DR650 in the snow more times than I'd like. The snow is fun but it bites!
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Oct 24, 2012 00:10
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