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jamal posted:
Nope. Swearing and tilting happened, but no mating. I am going to try harder on those pegs to get the one out of the old block. I had the bottom two studs in, and someone mentioned those should be out. Will remove. Its a good thing anyways as I couldn't figure out how to get the throwout bearing off the clutch, so figured it was supposed to be one unit. I probably would have had to pull it all apart to get the throwout to latch properly. Will try again after my brain and fingers stop hurting from smashing them into sharp corners under the car/on the hoist.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:37
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| # ? May 29, 2024 18:13 |
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Bottom studs can stay in and the pegs aren't an issue unless you have one in the trans and block hitting each other. Your problem may be the TOB. To remove it from the pressure plate take a flathead screwdriver and use it to separate the two rings between the TOB and PP. Then you should be able to just slide the TOB right out. The TOB has to be on the transmission with the fork and pin in place to install the engine. Then once the engine is bolted down you snap the TOB into the pressure plate and bolt on the clutch slave cylinder. Also, which clutch/flywheel are you using? I don't think the sti 6-speed pressure plate will clear the 5-speed bellhousing, and I'm not sure if the 6-speed TOB works on the 5-speed transmission either.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:45
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jamal posted:Bottom studs can stay in and the pegs aren't an issue unless you have one in the trans and block hitting each other. Your problem may be the TOB. To remove it from the pressure plate take a flathead screwdriver and use it to separate the two rings between the TOB and PP. Then you should be able to just slide the TOB right out. The TOB has to be on the transmission with the fork and pin in place to install the engine. Then once the engine is bolted down you snap the TOB into the pressure plate and bolt on the clutch slave cylinder. Stock leftovers from the 5 spd. The stud needs to come out as I have none in the 207 and one left in the 205, so there is only one in the trans. I have been looking at my clutch with contempt, but don't think I can afford a new one right now. It will probably go not too soon after the swap. At least I will know how to pull the engine to swap it.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:52
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2011 wrx with stock tires and stock suspension. I'm looking to get an alignment because the car is pulling pretty steadily to the right and has a really poor response feel in the steering. Is there any preferred alignment setup I should ask for, if Discount Tire will do any other alignment than OEM?
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Oct 24, 2012 01:54
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Cat Terrist posted:Nope on both replace roof and probibitive cost. The pillar is a porta power or a winch attached to a tree and chain, the roof is bonded on and easily removed / replaced or straightened. I doubt the front suspension is a problem - yeah there will be a cost BUT looking at it the real issue is the time spent. I can't imagine getting that roof straight with a porta-power but I'd love to see it done. Post pics!
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Oct 24, 2012 02:29
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Danger Doug posted:2011 wrx with stock tires and stock suspension. I'm looking to get an alignment because the car is pulling pretty steadily to the right and has a really poor response feel in the steering. Is there any preferred alignment setup I should ask for, if Discount Tire will do any other alignment than OEM? I didn't think they do any, but maybe it varies store to store?
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Oct 24, 2012 02:44
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Do twin scroll manifolds for the ej 255 work on the 205?
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Oct 24, 2012 02:54
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Yes. The ports on the heads and up-pipe are in the same spot on everything. There are a couple different stock manifolds but they only thing that changes is how the crossover pipe bolts up. So if you want to go to twin scroll you just need the newer oil pan setup for it to fit. I don't think I would go through the effort to swap all that in though. Getting a complete jdm engine is one thing but getting it all separately costs a lot. I would just spend the money on a better single scroll manifold (like a perrin EL) and a bigger turbo.Danger Doug posted:2011 wrx with stock tires and stock suspension. I'm looking to get an alignment because the car is pulling pretty steadily to the right and has a really poor response feel in the steering. Is there any preferred alignment setup I should ask for, if Discount Tire will do any other alignment than OEM? Check pressures first. If you're getting an alignment ask them for the max negative camber in the front. That works out to around -1 to -1.5, which will really improve front end grip and turn in without any extra tire wear. And then zero toe, and inspect the bushings in the front control arms. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Oct 24, 2012 |
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Oct 24, 2012 03:17
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The manager at firestone was arguing with me when I told him to max out front negative camber on my LGT. I said that toe eats tires, but a couple degrees of camber wouldn't cause a noticeable increase in wear. He disagreed, saying that the wear pattern for camber is the same as toe, which makes zero sense to me. Toe makes the wheel rotate about an axis that isn't perpendicular to the direction of travel, ie the tire is constantly sliding slightly. The only issue I see with camber is that you're theoretically reducing the contact patch, but with a wide sidewall (17") I don't see that increasing wear by a measurable amount.
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Oct 24, 2012 03:26
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daslog posted:I can't imagine getting that roof straight with a porta-power but I'd love to see it done. Post pics! KaptainBallistik, do we have pics of the RX2 after you rolled it? Altho now I think of it we managed to straighten this....  With a porta power before we cut the roof off.  It's rough there but you can see we actually got the pillar straight enoungh to allow micro work to occur. (Porta power is in fact in the boot and is the red thing). And we could continue if we wanted. However - if you note we had a roof ready to go off a donor car, what we were out to achieve is to make sure everything is straight so the roof cut would match properly as we had a decent twist in the C-Pillar and vanity window that would not have allowed proper mating of the new roof to the pillar stubs.  And achieved this  For about 300 dollars and two weekends.  Cattes quote:The manager at firestone was arguing with me when I told him to max out front negative camber on my LGT. I said that toe eats tires, but a couple degrees of camber wouldn't cause a noticeable increase in wear. He disagreed, saying that the wear pattern for camber is the same as toe, which makes zero sense to me. Toe makes the wheel rotate about an axis that isn't perpendicular to the direction of travel, ie the tire is constantly sliding slightly. The only issue I see with camber is that you're theoretically reducing the contact patch, but with a wide sidewall (17") I don't see that increasing wear by a measurable amount. He's a retard, the max camber setting you can get out of a stock car will do jack poo poo wearing and may even make tyre wear better. Tell him to gently caress off and just do what you want. Edit : gently caress me, looking back on the VR4 at how much was damaged over it's rally career in my hands. Two rear quarters, 6 doors, a roof, three bonnets, 3 front guards, front / rear bumpers and still survives today with a new owner. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Oct 24, 2012 |
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Oct 24, 2012 04:41
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jamal posted:Check pressures first. If you're getting an alignment ask them for the max negative camber in the front. That works out to around -1 to -1.5, which will really improve front end grip and turn in without any extra tire wear. And then zero toe, and inspect the bushings in the front control arms. Awesome, thanks for the heads up! e: got the alignment done and the toe and steering alignment were awful - everything feels ok now. Only concern I have is that the camber is -1.2 in the left rear, and -1.6 in the right. Doesn't seem like too terribly bad, but some googlin' found that people get really pissy if there is a difference in the camber. Is there anything I should be concerned about, and if so is this a dealership thing? Also I'd really like to learn about setting up suspensions because I want to get smart about it before I start throwing my money as hard as I can at whiteline or something, and make the right choices. Any suggestions on knowledge sources, or particular books? Thanks! Danger Doug fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Oct 24, 2012 |
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Oct 24, 2012 13:57
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jamal posted:Yes, you can install Cobb's software and then put whatever maps you want on the AP. They have lots of them on the website. You can also save the existing maps that are on it. If you are not set on using a perrin map I could probably save you a few bucks on an accessport. Do tell me more
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Oct 24, 2012 20:27
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New wheels installed with new tires! 
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Oct 24, 2012 20:58
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Imperador do Brasil posted:New wheels installed with new tires! Yup, looks stock.
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Oct 24, 2012 22:29
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Amandyke posted:Yup, looks stock. The best look for an Outback.
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Oct 24, 2012 22:33
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Rocketmoose posted:Do tell me more You don't seem to have pms so send me an email. peter at functionauto.com
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Oct 25, 2012 00:05
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Amandyke posted:Yup, looks stock. It's way more stock than before! Less aftermarket corrosion on the wheels!
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Oct 25, 2012 00:30
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Imperador do Brasil posted:New wheels installed with new tires! I may have to steal this idea, I have the same car and my wheels are corroded as poo poo too. What years have the same bolt pattern / offset as the 98 Legacy wagon?
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Oct 25, 2012 01:29
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Went into the tire shop with the OEM STi Dunlops that have seen many miles and autocross runs. It was (is) raining hard and 36 F. I came out with Michelin Pilot Alpin PA4s. The difference is unbelievable. Tomorrow's forecast is for snow. 
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Oct 25, 2012 02:31
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Sudo Echo posted:I may have to steal this idea, I have the same car and my wheels are corroded as poo poo too. All years of Subaru with 5-lug wheels except for the '05+ STI will work.
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Oct 25, 2012 02:59
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Alphius posted:All years of Subaru with 5-lug wheels except for the '05+ STI will work.
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Oct 25, 2012 03:10
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Alphius posted:All years of Subaru with 5-lug wheels except for the '05+ STI will work. Fantastic. I like choices. Subaru has made a lot of styles, it's going to be hard choosing just one. You guys got any favorites?
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Oct 25, 2012 03:39
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What size do you want? I'm particular to the 16" WRX and 16" Legacy snowflakes.  The Forester XT wheels are cool too, but seem rare. 
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Oct 25, 2012 03:46
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16" or 17", as long as I can get tires that won't change the overall wheel diameter and gently caress up the speedometer. I like the Legacy snowflakes there, look good and not too horrible to clean. Probably 16" though because a) the car looks more normal with a decent amount of sidewall to me and b) it does go off-road occasionally (lightly, I know it's not a 4x4). I'll just have to see what I can get for a reasonable price. There's a buttload of Subarus in this area so it shouldn't be too hard. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/3363042291.html looks pretty tempting edit: Currently sitting on 205/70R15 tires which have a 26.3" diameter. The tires in that ad are 205/65R16 with a diameter of 26.49". Close enough? Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 04:16
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Sudo Echo posted:16" or 17", as long as I can get tires that won't change the overall wheel diameter and gently caress up the speedometer. I like the Legacy snowflakes there, look good and not too horrible to clean. Those are nice looking wheels. I have a set of the same on my '94 Legacy Turbo. Great price for them too. 
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Oct 25, 2012 04:38
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Sudo Echo posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/3363042291.html looks pretty tempting Another SFBay subi goon? Why have you not spoken up sooner?
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Oct 25, 2012 04:40
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I see so many Subies every day around here, I should have guessed some of the drivers had to be goons. Honestly I just don't post very much in AI, mostly lurk for pictures and project threads. Know anyone good who could weld up an exhaust heat shield in the bay? It broke right next to one of the little bolts closest to the engine and the rattling noise it makes is horrible. It resonates right around 3k RPM into this incredible racket, especially when engine braking. I'll have to take a video, for such a small thing it makes an incredible racket.
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Oct 25, 2012 04:54
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I really like my RS 6-spokes Right now I'm on 17" 05 Legacy GT wheels, also painted black.
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Oct 25, 2012 05:21
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Sudo Echo posted:16" or 17", as long as I can get tires that won't change the overall wheel diameter and gently caress up the speedometer. I like the Legacy snowflakes there, look good and not too horrible to clean. Probably 16" though because a) the car looks more normal with a decent amount of sidewall to me and b) it does go off-road occasionally (lightly, I know it's not a 4x4). 205/65/16 should work fine. I went from 205/70/15 to 215/60/16, which is nominally the same diameter.
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Oct 25, 2012 14:55
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If you're in Canada, you can also get the JDM wheels pretty cheaply. $600 CDN with brand new tires.
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Oct 25, 2012 15:03
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Any idea how much over the local selling price I should add on if I just rebuilt (back to stock, not hi-po) the EJ20 in my 02 WRX?
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Oct 25, 2012 15:31
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Sudo Echo posted:I see so many Subies every day around here, I should have guessed some of the drivers had to be goons. Honestly I just don't post very much in AI, mostly lurk for pictures and project threads. That all depends on where you are in the bay really. I'd say any muffler shop should be good enough to do a tack weld for pretty cheap. Or you could run to harbor freight, buy a welder and do it yourself  Lord Gaga posted:Any idea how much over the local selling price I should add on if I just rebuilt (back to stock, not hi-po) the EJ20 in my 02 WRX? Salvage motors with 30 day warranties are typically in the 1500-2000 range for the bare long block. I'd say around $3500 would be a good starting point if it's a bare long block. Unless you're taking a bath at that price, then by all means at least come out even.
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Oct 25, 2012 15:40
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Sudo Echo posted:Know anyone good who could weld up an exhaust heat shield in the bay? It broke right next to one of the little bolts closest to the engine and the rattling noise it makes is horrible. It resonates right around 3k RPM into this incredible racket, especially when engine braking. I'll have to take a video, for such a small thing it makes an incredible racket.
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Oct 25, 2012 16:37
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So it snowed and my car felt great with the michelins. However, a plow knocked what I can only describe as a metal tumbleweed of coat hanger thickness in front of me. No choice, no reaction room, hit it. Front bumper looks fine, but it got caught under my car, passenger rear. I drug it 15 miles because I determined stopping on the dark snowy narrow shoulder during rush hour was a poor choice. I think it was hanging off the back of the bumper but I'm not sure. It looks like it damaged the paint on the bumper and scratched up the plastic "diffuser" for lack of a better word. This is the second time in a row that excitement about buying something for my car that I want is IMMEDIATELY tempered with some poo poo luck. Tl,dr: don't read it I'm just bitching
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Oct 25, 2012 19:35
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jamal posted:Bottom studs can stay in and the pegs aren't an issue unless you have one in the trans and block hitting each other. Your problem may be the TOB. To remove it from the pressure plate take a flathead screwdriver and use it to separate the two rings between the TOB and PP. Then you should be able to just slide the TOB right out. The TOB has to be on the transmission with the fork and pin in place to install the engine. Then once the engine is bolted down you snap the TOB into the pressure plate and bolt on the clutch slave cylinder. Gave up and am overnighting in a new clutch. I read more about it and the TOB pulls, not pushes. I have a crack in one of the "ears" of the TOB and I figured it would be fine since it is pushing. It pulls on the fingers, so that crack will probably break as soon as I get the car running again.
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Oct 25, 2012 20:19
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Is oil on the spark plugs a pretty sure sign of bad plug gaskets and/or valve cover gaskets?
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Oct 26, 2012 00:34
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The Jabberwocky posted:Is oil on the spark plugs a pretty sure sign of bad plug gaskets and/or valve cover gaskets? In my experience, yes.
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Oct 26, 2012 00:46
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The Jabberwocky posted:Is oil on the spark plugs a pretty sure sign of bad plug gaskets and/or valve cover gaskets? It's the plug tube seal gaskets. They're wicked easy to replace. Get new grommets, vc gaskets, and the plug tube seals.  CHRISGT BOUGHT A BROKEN SUBARU   $900. Needs head gaskets, clutch, and oil pan. I have the clutch poo poo and an oil pan already. I'll get the MLS STi gaskets, have the heads surfaced at the machine shop, and I'll be rollin' in purple. (also, those are the CL ad pics, so if you want to steal whatever car has those plates on it now, be my guest)
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Oct 26, 2012 01:17
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Good negotiation. It's a gorgeous car.
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Oct 26, 2012 01:28
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You got a stupid deal on that thing.
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Oct 26, 2012 03:15
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