|
Gold, or gray to match the triumph logo
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2017 21:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 10:53 |
|
|
 Changed the oil on my 701 @300 miles. There was so much metal on the magnetic plug I'm surprised the manufacturer suggests a change @600 miles.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2017 21:59
|
|
|
Nfcknblvbl posted:
Any time you have gears in the oil you have a poo poo load of filings on the first drain. This seems to be a thing universal to cars and bikes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2017 22:32
|
|
|
Yeah, it's when the amount of chips doesn't decrease that you need to worry.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2017 22:50
|
|
|
High Protein posted:Did you need to block off the hole the starter gear goes into? Yeah, I had planned to remove the starter motor, then plug the hole with one of those rubber expansion plugs they sell at auto parts stores. In the end, I decided it would look better if I shaved that whole part of the engine, and made it look as though it never had a starter to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2017 23:48
|
|
|
Bottomed out the exhaust pipe on a non-regulation speed bump  If it's not pierced it's fine, right? It doesn't look dented either, just scraped. e/ spent my lunch break extracting the rear brake light switch, which picked up a short circuit or something. My brake light is now no longer continuously on 
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Feb 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 09:12
|
|
|
It's probably fine. Check the bolts where the header goes into the engine for tightness, though. (This wouldn't have knocked them loose if they weren't already loose, but its a good thing to check occasionally.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 16:56
|
|
|
Dented exhaust/headers apparently doesn't matter at all \ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU Unless it's a 2 stroke I guess?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 16:59
|
|
|
Actually some dirt bike magazine studied 2t dents and discovered they did almost nothing too. Depending on the dent it sometimes improved HP. I think the only dents that made it worse were massive, like the pipe was mostly crushed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2017 20:28
|
|
|
With two strokes it matters more what the overall length of the expansion chamber is much more than the shape and a bit more than it's volume. So unless your dent is big enough to shorten the pipe chamber length, you won't really notice it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2017 02:06
|
|
|
Put a new LSL X00 Cross bar on, slightly lower, and slightly more forward. More comfortable, and stops me being sat bolt upright.  ...and an aluminium 'screen'  
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2017 23:20
|
|
|
Did a little tail-chop last night. Didn't turn out quite the way I'd imagined it, but still better than that big 'ol mud flap on the back.  The license plate bracket was purchased at the local pimp-my-scooter shop for 17 euros. Next project, I'll get rid of that big headlight/dashboard thing in the front. I'm thinking about replacing it with a MX style numberplate and an LED bar.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 12:26
|
|
|
This is rad as hell
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 15:05
|
|
|
Pinny posted:Put a new LSL X00 Cross bar on, slightly lower, and slightly more forward. More comfortable, and stops me being sat bolt upright. It's kind of amazing how much better the bike looks with just those 2 changes. Nicely done!
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 16:15
|
|
|
Z3n posted:It's kind of amazing how much better the bike looks with just those 2 changes. Nicely done! Thanks, I made up the bracket for the clocks too, which tucks it under the screen nicely. They put the clocks on top of the bars where the clamps are, which with the stock bars, makes it so you pretty much have to bury your chin in your chest to see the drat thing. I almost went for clip-ons to start with. I found some nice multi-adjustable ones that would work pretty well. I don't think the final riding position would be very comfortable though for day to day. The pegs are too far forward for the amount of leaning forward you'd be doing. They look quite nice though: 
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 16:44
|
|
|
That bike looks awesome and bars are superior to clip-ons in every form of riding except racing. Good choice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2017 16:54
|
|
|
Pinny posted:Put a new LSL X00 Cross bar on, slightly lower, and slightly more forward. More comfortable, and stops me being sat bolt upright. m'otorcycle 
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2017 00:02
|
|
|
 -removed tool tube as it kept sheering the bash plate bolts when I came down from wheelies/jumped curbs. I wish I could think of a way to affix this stuff to the inside of the front body panels. -removed passenger pegs -installed gas cap foam seal -MADE BIKE UGLY OH THE HUMANITY THOSE BODY PANELS. After wasting the day trying to find all white body plastic parts, I realized I can just vinyl wrap it far cheaper. Probably gonna do a white wrap of the second set of plastics soon. Or go full lisa frank and get those rainbow holographic vinyls.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 04:27
|
|
|
Coydog posted:rainbow holographic vinyls. Oh my god
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 08:30
|
|
|
I actually have something better in the works, but I can't say anything or I'll just procrastinate forever and never actually do it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 22:30
|
|
|
Emailed Heidenau to find out why it said "DRY" on the side of these treaded tires I bought.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2017 23:47
|
|
|
Started installing and making a soundcheck video for the Sprint's exhaust, but spent so long fixing this loving rusty muffler clamp that I didn't have time to figure out how to load the new map in.   PB blaster and heat didn't work, and that tool just broke while trying to back it out with an ez-out bit. Finally just drilled it most of the way out and had to pry the rest out with a screwdriver. But hey, I saved $8 plus shipping!
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2017 00:32
|
|
|
New crash bars and new stainless steel front brake line.   
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 05:38
|
|
|
Refreshed the seals in the rear brake caliper, and wired up switched power source from the rear light to a USB contact and the gps cradle. I also finally wired up the brake light feature of my rear led indicators. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 19:36
|
|
|
I rode the elite today, in the middle of February in Wisconsin. 65 degrees. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2017 22:38
|
|
|
 Fork seals, oil, Steerer bearing service, oil change.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
 Spent the afternoon with a brillo pad rubbing the melted plastic off my muffler, and removing the Wings medalion. It came off really well, to my surprise. Then I installed the muffler slider that I should have in the first place. Looks good.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2017 00:53
|
|
|
I washed it for the first time since I bought it in September.   (And checked the tire pressure and realized I'm awful and probably should have checked the tire pressure a very long time ago. It's like getting new tires each time!)
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2017 05:38
|
|
|
My tail lights conked out at some point on the way back from Bristol last week. Just my luck, it wasn't the bulbs. Got out the multimeter and it looks like the fault is somewhere in the main bus between the tail light plug and the ignition switch. Pulled the tank up to try and get at the ignition switch plug to narrow it down, turns out the bloody thing is buried under the airbox, so I can't do much without fully removing the tank, which I'm not equipped to do tonight. Go to bolt the tank back down, stripped one of the loving bolts  So my bike went from inadvisable to ride in the dark, to unsafe to ride at all. FML. It looks like there's 5mm or so of thread left in the bottom that the stock bolt couldn't reach; I'm going to get a longer bolt first off and try finger tightening it and praying that doesn't shred as well. If it does, would I be better off re-tapping the hole (that's drilled directly into the frame next to the headstock) or going with some kind of expanding bolt thing?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 22:20
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:My tail lights conked out at some point on the way back from Bristol last week. Just my luck, it wasn't the bulbs. You could drill through it and run a bolt to the other side. I would do that as a last resort, but preferable to replacing the frame. Before that, why not try just first helicoil, second, retapping it for a slightly larger bolt?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2017 23:27
|
|
|
Got the clutch side of the bike apart for my shifter repair/upgrade, only to find that I didn't order both of the springs I needed (the broken shaft return spring, which I didn't order, as well as the shift-star detent arm spring, which I do have). I could put it all back together, but I'd just be draining fresh oil and coolant again next week, and I'd still be dealing with having to manually reset the shifter to go up and down gears. I think I'm just going to go to the dealer today to see if they have the spring I need, 09444-20001 (pasted so I can find it again easily when I go to the dealer). I did find the broken piece of spring in the bottom of the oilpan though, right next to the drain plug. Stick magnets are the greatest, I tell ya.
|
|
#
?
Feb 22, 2017 06:36
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:Got the clutch side of the bike apart for my shifter repair/upgrade, only to find that I didn't order both of the springs I needed (the broken shaft return spring, which I didn't order, as well as the shift-star detent arm spring, which I do have). I could put it all back together, but I'd just be draining fresh oil and coolant again next week, and I'd still be dealing with having to manually reset the shifter to go up and down gears. I think I'm just going to go to the dealer today to see if they have the spring I need, 09444-20001 (pasted so I can find it again easily when I go to the dealer). New bits got in today. Spent 30 minutes scraping the old gasket off the sidecover. Shifts so much nicer now. The action feels much more solid, almost heavy. Harder to find neutral now, but that's fine. I kinda wish Suzuki had the positive neutral setup my Ninja500 had, it was nice to be able to simply click into N at a light you knew was going to take a minute or two.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:New bits got in today. Spent 30 minutes scraping the old gasket off the sidecover. Clutch adjusted properly? Shifter linkage got no loose joints?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 00:46
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Clutch adjusted properly? Shifter linkage got no loose joints? Linkage is solid. Clutch has about 5mm cable slack. I think I just needed to get used to the new detent spring and shift star, I'm not having issues clicking it in anymore.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 07:23
|
|
|
Installed a 2016 enduro r gas cap assembly. Looks way more leak proof and completely redesigned. My lock is 1/2 inch longer than the new locks, so I'm gonna find a local machine shop to cut mine down and drill a new retaining pin hole. Baby steps.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2017 19:24
|
|
|
Changed the oil + filter and cleaned it up a bit so it's nice and shiny for the guy coming to see it tomorrow. Hopefully the FZ1 will have a new home soon! Pulled the Multi into the other garage so I have more room to work on it tomorrow when I go to put the new driving lights, rad guard, and crash bars on it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 00:08
|
|
|
Fresh S21s Rev2 throttle kit   Brembo MC rebuild  90% ready for the season 
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
Put me down as envious of your garage setup. I'm struggling to find apartments that have motorcycle-specific parking, and even worse, some places flat-out told me to not own a motorcycle and live there due to theft. Also is the throttle thing a progressive cam setup? I was thinking of one of those as I've yet to meet an EFI bike that doesn't decide that a 1/1000th of an inch throttle movement means "full power".
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 14:21
|
|
|
Do those of you with a secure community garage chain your bike to anything or use other anti-theft devices? I just recently moved to a place with a garage and am debating getting a big chain. I feel like it's secure enough, but have known people with bikes stolen out of this type of set up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 17:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 10:53 |
|
|
Just get comprehensive insurance
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2017 17:32
|
|
