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StrixNebulosa posted:You saved my bacon! when it works , it works. Looks like you might want to tune your first layer a bit. Looks to be either pushing too much out or your too close to the bed, looks like you are dragging the nozzle through it. Overhangs look good. Its more so the gloss pla but layer overhang / flow can maybe use a slight tweak, but it could just be picture quality. Its fine if the stuff you want to print works without special needs. Example i never use a brim as my adhesion is spot on, but sometimes its just easier to hit that checkbox, or swipe some gluestick over the plate quickly
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Jul 24, 2023 00:50
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https://youtu.be/aneKDSGOu4k this poo poo is black magic
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Jul 24, 2023 01:27
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Give me my goddamn 5 extruder model already Josef!!!! 
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Jul 24, 2023 01:29
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Finally had time to setup the P1S. It was pretty smooth overall. Definitely made the promise of being ready to go out of the box pretty well. https://twitter.com/8bitminiboss/status/1683268534770733056
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Jul 24, 2023 02:01
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Found out the hard way that the AMS really doesn't like cardboard spools, even with plastic rings on them. Polymaker's worked okay; Overture's didn't at all, and were too big to close the AMS anyway. Fortunately, I had a solution at hand, while some actual masterspools printed: I was able to crack IIID MAX spools in half, rip the cardboard flanges off my cardboard spools, and put the cardboard ring inside the plastic flanges. Works like a charm.
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Jul 24, 2023 02:15
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Tremors posted:https://www.printables.com/model/436366-bambu-lab-x1c-wastebin I gave this one a go today, and it also backed up into the printer like the other design, a few hours into a 30 hour print with six colours. Caused a layer shift and I had to start the print over.  I'm letting the printer just poop directly onto the floor again for now.. Snackmar fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jul 24, 2023 |
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Jul 24, 2023 06:27
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tracecomplete posted:Found out the hard way that the AMS really doesn't like cardboard spools, even with plastic rings on them. Polymaker's worked okay; Overture's didn't at all, and were too big to close the AMS anyway. Polyterra spools are cardboard but spin just fine. Use the included filament (not the white support) to print 8 spool covers. Polyterra has a specific one which keys to the offset notch, but I also grabbed another one that prints quicker because it's just the ring, no inner bullshit. They are 24m prints each. Every other spool I have is polyterra or plastic. The off brand whatever fits the generic holder. I have 3 spools of Enviro ABS that do not fit the holders and hate the ams, soni will either rewind on a new spool (unlikely) or use it on the single holder or just another printer. My use for the included filament (which prints awesome btw) was the tools and mod parts I started using day 1. I'm also debating the hydra ams mod but I have nonuse for it yet
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Jul 24, 2023 08:02
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Usually I take my resin issues to the tabletop 3d printing thread, but this seems maybe a bit heavy for over there I have a relatively simple model with a flat bottom. Needs to be mirrored and printed twice. It's the outer grips for a cosplay pistol. However, I can't ever seem to get the flat edge to... be flat. What's the solution here? More supports? Thicker supports? Longer cure time? Heat my chamber more? Print flat on the build plate with a flex plate? Print it with the flat side up so it all equals out at the end? Ref photos:    
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Jul 25, 2023 03:42
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What's the preview look like with supports? A forest of supports, then post-cure and complete dry while still attached to the firsty of supports is the usual way I'd handle a thin walled part that needs to not distort at all. (The supports and ready provide important support during any drying and post curing.)
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Jul 25, 2023 03:54
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What if too small?  For a fast “hell let’s gently caress around and find out” eleven minute print, glitch cat came out pretty well. I’ll reprint larger later!
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Jul 25, 2023 04:20
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The Eyes Have It posted:What's the preview look like with supports? Reopened ctb files ... does not look very good, even being able to manipulate it in 3d. Looking at it, I suppose I should have slapped supports on the very outside edges where the dimensionality matters, rather than the inside edges where pockmarks would be hidden. This model is very very far from a thin-walled part. It's up to 3/8" thick or maybe more in certain places, so holding off on curing wouldn't do much, it's practically a brick. 100g of resin per half. Any reason I shouldn't just print it completely vertical? All the parts in this project were designed specifically for resin printing, which is a cool thing to see-- they're pre-hollowed in places that won't compromise the integrity, or used as places to stash electronics, very good and clever. However, if I wanted to print any of the larger pieces on one of my FDM machines, PrusaSlicer just chokes and dies trying to figure out how to support such a thing Fortunately, I'm fairly sure that this model is the only time that a surface being truly flat actually matters. Everywhere else is either hidden or a small enough surface that a little bit of sanding and filling will sort it out. These grip pieces, of course, can't be filled or have too much fuckery done to them because they need to be translucent red (This is the model https://www.printables.com/en/model/410403-johnny-silverhands-malorian-arms-3516/comments)
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Jul 25, 2023 04:51
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Sockser posted:Usually I take my resin issues to the tabletop 3d printing thread, but this seems maybe a bit heavy for over there Not sure if this is entirely what you're looking for, but one thing I've seen recently is the idea of 'continuous' supports along edges like that to try and prevent warping for more mechanical features/edges. This video from a 3d printing youtuber has a brief overview of the idea but I'd imagine you'd want to look for the original guy testing the idea or maybe experiment with it before just treating it as a full solution. You may also be able to deal with it all by just having more support along that edge, but hard to say without testing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=666M9bEpVgU
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Jul 25, 2023 06:07
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Yeah I saw that video and it's suuuuuuuper interesting and I hope we get a resin slicer that'll do it out of the box Or anything that's not chitu/lychee e: the biggest feature I want, and someone please tell me if it exists, is to be able to manually place the half-dozen supports I know are absolutely necessary and should be absolute brick shithouse supports and then just let the slicer auto-support the rest afterwards Or some good ol' support enforcer/support blockers would also be tight Sockser fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 06:10
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Don't let prusiaslicer figure out supports all on it's lonesome self. Enable supports, turn off auto generated, and paint them where it needs it. Where that is depends on how well your printer overhangs, etc. I generally get the best clean result from tree supports from build plate only You also need to play with how close they get to the actual part to help with post process
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Jul 25, 2023 06:40
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Sockser posted:Reopened ctb files ... does not look very good, even being able to manipulate it in 3d. That's a "thin" walled part in the sense of the part geometry. I mean the ratio of its area compared to it's thickness is kind of one-sided. Also the thickness isn't consistent across the whole shape, there are some pretty thin vs. pretty chonky areas which can exacerbate things. I can only speak from experience making GBS threads out parts of all sorts & sizes with Formlabs printers for work. Different machines, but many of the same principles apply in SLA no matter what. If I had to make that part, I'd:
Every SLA printed part distorts a little between when it's green (wet and fresh from the printer) until all the post-processing is done. Especially if there's extra post-print curing time in a wash & cure, or whatever. Leaving the part on the support network (complete with a raft) helps distribute all those forces and helps keep the part from distorting too much until it is no longer "green" and has finished settling/curing/hardening/however you want to think of it. The steps I listed above are what I'd do if I wanted to give it the best chance of working first try and I didn't want to gently caress around with re-work. It's very likely possible to get away with doing less than every item I listed above and still get a usable result, but you'll probably end up doing it at least twice, maybe more in the process. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 06:40
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The Eyes Have It posted:If I really really really needed to only print this ONCE and make it work then I'd extend the "lip" of the mating surface out like an extra 2-3mm. Then commit to sanding them down by hand until they mate flush with each other (doing that preserves the look of the translucent resin.) But I really loving hate sanding so I'd probably just firmly cross my fingers. This was going to be my suggestion. I've printed some models that needed absolutely flat bottoms by extending the bottoms 2-3mm and then putting a shallow channel where the actual 'bottom' was supposed to be. Then I just used a razor saw to chop off the extraneous base and sanded it flat. The caveat to this is that these were models I designed myself so adding the extra bit was something I could do from the start of the process and I haven't tried doing this with something someone else made.
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Jul 25, 2023 06:45
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BlackIronHeart posted:extending the bottoms 2-3mm and then putting a shallow channel where the actual 'bottom' was supposed to be. Can you elaborate on this? I'm not able to visualize this at all e: extruding the bottom face(s) I get, but I'm not understanding the channel bit Sockser fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 06:47
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If all I had was the STL I'd slice off like 1mm, stretch that 1mm piece out, then combine it back with the original model. Maybe in that process some kind of thinner spot to create something like the shallow channel you mention, which sounds like a really good idea!
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Jul 25, 2023 06:50
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The ones I printed will be ""good enough"" for now and can be removed and replaced later when I feel like wasting another $8 of resin but just for my present edification-- if these fit on my printer perfectly perpendicular to the build plate, is there any reason that I shouldn't just print them in that orientation?
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Jul 25, 2023 06:55
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Sockser posted:Can you elaborate on this? I'm not able to visualize this at all Here's one I did. You can see the channel where I want the actual bottom to be.  E: You can see here it's pretty shallow, .5mm, so the blade of the saw catches in it. 
BlackIronHeart fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 06:55
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Sockser posted:The ones I printed will be ""good enough"" for now and can be removed and replaced later when I feel like wasting another $8 of resin but just for my present edification-- if these fit on my printer perfectly perpendicular to the build plate, is there any reason that I shouldn't just print them in that orientation? You can give it a try, maybe it'll work out. Advantage being no supports to deal with (the support would be being attached to the build plate itself.) I'd still want to leave it stuck to the build plate to help keep the part from curling or whatever until it's completely done being washed and cured and all dried and poo poo. (And do it for the same reason that I'd leave the part attached to the support network, if I was printing it with one.) The only hassles I see would be 1) difficulty of washing/cleaning the inner area because it's stuck to the build plate, and b) difficulty of post-curing UV reaching the inside (again because it's stuck to the build plate) but it might be worth rolling the dice on it. e: Oh wait I misunderstood, I thought you were talking about printing them flat on the build plate ("inside" of grip flat on the plate) The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 07:01
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BlackIronHeart posted:Here's one I did. You can see the channel where I want the actual bottom to be. Oh, pffff, I read "razor blade" and not "razor saw" That makes perfect sense. Don't think extruding the entire surface on a part this big would make sense but if I only did a 3mm "ring" around the outside that would probably get the seams to match up which is all that really matters here e: just swapped out resin in my vat and I went to go grab the cones of calibration since I don't have the stl handy learned that there's a v2? And... I assume it's the boxes of calibration Which includes this absolutely perfect detailed guide for calibrating resin that I wish I'd had to read 3 years ago https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit Adding a sandable raft to my parts like he does on page 37 sounds like maybe the perfect solution? Sockser fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Jul 25, 2023 |
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Jul 25, 2023 15:43
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Oddly enough, I've always had better luck printing thin wall stuff with FDM vs the same part on a resin printer. Even the super duper Form 1 struggles with thin parts.
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Jul 25, 2023 16:51
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Welp the Voron has been put up on marketplace to see if I can get any bites. Hitting print and watching my P1P just go has made me realize I just don't want to tinker anymore and I've come to the realization that I don't need/use the 350mm volume. A X1C or P1S will replace it if it happens to sell. Goon discount if anyone(*cough* deviant *cough*) is interested 
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Jul 27, 2023 00:34
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How loud are the P1Ps when going full bore? I'm thinking of getting one and I have a closet it can live in as my WFH job deals with a lot of phone calls and I don't want it to be too crazy.
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Jul 27, 2023 00:56
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Mine are definitely pretty loud
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Jul 27, 2023 01:10
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The P1S has been a little loud on standard but not much louder than my tower fan in my room at medium to high speed. Barely notice it. Ludicrous mode is a fair bit louder. Door closed, have yet to to open. I plan to stuff the printer in a closet in the near future.
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Jul 27, 2023 02:24
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Roundboy posted:Polyterra spools are cardboard but spin just fine. Use the included filament (not the white support) to print 8 spool covers. Polyterra has a specific one which keys to the offset notch, but I also grabbed another one that prints quicker because it's just the ring, no inner bullshit. They are 24m prints each. I assure you, they do not work in mine. They slip on the rollers with PLA rings.
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Jul 27, 2023 02:45
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Kicked off my first multi hour print earlier today. 8 hours later, I have a poop chute and it came out basically perfect even at extra draft settings.
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Jul 27, 2023 06:57
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Finally got around to trying out my used Saturn 2 8k and drat are these rooks are tiny. Love the tiny double helix inside which really gives you an idea of how small you can print detail. I think I'm going to need to come up with a ventilation setup, not bad when printing but when I took my mask off post cleanup it still stunk up the place. 8K printer for $250 to your door. I probably need to replace the FEP since it is a little cloudy, but gonna print with it until it becomes an issue. Edit: The ABS like resin is a lot stronger than I thought it would be too. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 07:40
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Welp, I'm soon gonna find out if Elegoo Mars 4 Max was a good choice for a first resin printer. I just wish I could pick it up from the post office, instead of waiting for home delivery for tomorrow between 6pm and 9pm. I can see from tracking that it's at the post office just a few blocks away, why can't I pick it up right now, augh!  Bondematt posted:Finally got around to trying out my used Saturn 2 8k and drat are these rooks are tiny. [...] Did your printer come with one of those USB air purifiers? I don't mind chemical smells, but my flatmate can't stand them, so I'm hoping that air purifier + moving the print plate straight to a wash station keeps the odors at bay. (Also yes, I checked with them before buying this printer, and I have a plan B called enclosure-in-bathroom if it still stinks up the apartment) JointHorse fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 08:32
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JointHorse posted:Welp, I'm soon gonna find out if Elegoo Mars 4 Max was a good choice for a first resin printer. I just wish I could pick it up from the post office, instead of waiting for home delivery for tomorrow between 6pm and 9pm. I can see from tracking that it's at the post office just a few blocks away, why can't I pick it up right now, augh! The air purifier it came with seems to do it's job as the smell wasn't bad at all when printing, but still noticeable. This is in a closed garage so pretty large room. It was mostly from cleaning out the vat. If I didn't do that and instead just shut the lid it wouldn't have been as bad.
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Jul 27, 2023 08:56
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Oh also, basically any type of alcohol is OK for washing the prints, right? Looking around, I found that IPA is rather expensive in Finland (15-10€/L), and denatured ethanol is not much better (10-8€/L). But then I found camping stove fuel that's ~80% ethanol and ~20% IPA, that's only 4€/L. This should work, right? JointHorse fucked around with this message at 09:49 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 08:58
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should be fine yeah. the overall concentration is more important than the specific sort of alcohol. be careful that the stove fuel doesn't have any sort of lubricating oils or anything in it, though.
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Jul 27, 2023 09:44
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i was 17 layers away from finishing my 20+ hour print, and i ran out of green filament. Kudos to bambu firmware for pausing the print,holding bed temp for the last few hours while i over slept, and easily resumed right where it left off when i popped a (hopefully good color match) replacement in. Boo on bambu handy / studio whatever for not sending me a notification that told me. I get print paused, print cancelled, print complete... literally no other useful update.
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Jul 27, 2023 14:13
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Roundboy posted:i was 17 layers away from finishing my 20+ hour print, and i ran out of green filament. Kudos to bambu firmware for pausing the print,holding bed temp for the last few hours while i over slept, and easily resumed right where it left off when i popped a (hopefully good color match) replacement in. My brother has been waiting for a new roll of glow in the dark filament for 3 days now for a print that is 90% done and his P1P is just happily sitting there awaiting said new roll lol
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Jul 27, 2023 14:40
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mattfl posted:Welp the Voron has been put up on marketplace to see if I can get any bites. Hitting print and watching my P1P just go has made me realize I just don't want to tinker anymore and I've come to the realization that I don't need/use the 350mm volume. A X1C or P1S will replace it if it happens to sell. Goon discount if anyone(*cough* deviant *cough*) is interested I’m interested. I’ll be out of the country for a month, though. In case it doesn’t sell in the meantime, PM me. 
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Jul 27, 2023 14:50
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gbut posted:I’m interested. I’ll be out of the country for a month, though. In case it doesn’t sell in the meantime, PM me. Don't have PMs but shoot me an email mattfl at the google
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Jul 27, 2023 15:08
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Thank you. Sent.
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Jul 27, 2023 15:34
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lol did my first cross border trip and came back with 16kg of filament and 5kg of resin, going across to the USA no issues, coming back I got my car flagged and searched and asked if I planned on printing gun parts. didnt have to pay duty tho, so gently caress yeah saved like 60 bucks. came out to 11.49 per reel of filament, when I normally pay 25+
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Jul 27, 2023 16:43
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