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Edit : wrong thread
Jestery fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Oct 19, 2018 |
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Oct 19, 2018 09:38
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 18:19 |
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I just pre-ordered (pledged) $310, ($250 plus $60 China shipping) for the Sparkmaker FHD: https://youtu.be/xeCRrCbIvb8 I know it's a risk, there were issues with v1, it has the build volume of a potato, and the resins have already gone back in time and given me rear end cancer, etc... I have an isolated workspace which doesn't share ventilation with my living space. Hopefully it works out.
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Oct 20, 2018 00:34
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You can get a photon for 375-400 with eBay sales if that is within your range. I considered the sparkmaker but looking at the Facebook group the v1 had lot of problems. That one looks improved
goodness fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Oct 20, 2018 |
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Oct 20, 2018 07:25
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goodness posted:You can get a photon for 375-400 with eBay sales if that is within your range. I considered the sparkmaker but looking at the Facebook group the v1 had lot of problems. That one looks improved The early reviews I've seen makes it seem like they've addressed the major problems with v1. At this price for a resin printer, with the results I've seen in the reviews, I know it's a risk but one I'm OK with taking. Did you end up with the Photon? I'm not opposed to grabbing one if I could find it new (with warranty?) for the price you listed. r.y.f.s.o. fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Oct 20, 2018 |
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Oct 20, 2018 15:14
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r.y.f.s.o. posted:The early reviews I've seen makes it seem like they've addressed the major problems with v1. At this price for a resin printer, with the results I've seen in the reviews, I know it's a risk but one I'm OK with taking. I did get a photon with the last sale. If you keep an eye on Amazon or eBay there should be a sale within a month or two. Amazon is the better place as it's easier to return if you have problems of course
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Oct 20, 2018 17:34
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goodness posted:same, its so cheap for what it can do compared to what was available only a couple years ago. How long does it take to print one of those?
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Oct 20, 2018 23:30
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Listerine posted:How long does it take to print one of those? These took ~4 hours, the tanks take 1:30 to 2 hours, a tray of 6mm infantry take 40minutes e: This just came out of the UV cure, took 45m to print. That is a banana runt for scale 
goodness fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 02:06
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I have no idea what that is but the detail is really impressive!
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Oct 21, 2018 15:45
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Parts Kit posted:I have no idea what that is but the detail is really impressive! Random abstract shape I found on thingiverse. I thought it would be good at testing the machine e: An air compressor helps a lot for the small scale resin prints. You want to make sure you get all the liquid resin out before curing or else it may fill in something you don't want, or crack the model. goodness fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Oct 21, 2018 |
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Oct 21, 2018 17:35
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Congrats on being the first person in history to actually make the banana thing funny too.  The more resin prints I see, the more I think I know what I'm doing with some tax refund money next spring. Been getting back into propmaking a bit lately and having one would be great for little high-detail greeblies that FDM isn't as well suited for.
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Oct 21, 2018 19:45
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So I'm thinking about getting a cheap printer to gently caress around with. Just some 150€ thing to try out 3D printing in general and to see if I can actually find a use for it... I was thinking maybe Anet A8? It's about 120€ so cheap as hell and I'm fine with spending a couple of hours building it and I like tinkering with stuff. I've heard good things about the Ender 3 though. Is it worth the 30 bucks more? Any other ideas within that price bracket? I know its not a lot of money but I'd like to gently caress around a bit with this stuff before dropping hundreds of € into a new hobby. Also, there are surprisingly capable machines for less than 200€. It's kind of insane.
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Oct 21, 2018 20:28
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The Ender is worth the extra money. The Anet is not a good machine in a number of ways, mainly safety. It can be good but you will spend longer and more money getting the same quality. If you are looking for a really cheap kit then the Tevo Tarantula is better but as it stands the Ender 3 is the best budget machine around.
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Oct 21, 2018 20:47
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Foxtrot_13 posted:
Just want to second this. The Anet A8 is the only machine of which I've seen repeated instances of near fatal house fires. That thing shouldn't even be allowed to be sold.
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Oct 21, 2018 21:13
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Megabound here has personal experience with the failure rate of them, something like of the 50 he assembled one or two of them nearly burnt the facility down. That's near criminal levels of ignorance/negligence
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Oct 21, 2018 21:28
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Shai-Hulud posted:So I'm thinking about getting a cheap printer to gently caress around with. Just some 150€ thing to try out 3D printing in general and to see if I can actually find a use for it... Anet A8s are hateful garbage piles. They're a pain to load and unload filament from, the Perspex frame is lovely and will warp and out of the ~50 I've helped put together 2 have tried to catch fire. One had a shorted bed out of the box, the other ripped its own wiring out of the back of the bed. I even found one that had tapped holes where it should have had untapped holes that was impossible to put together out of the box.
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Oct 21, 2018 22:35
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Megabound posted:Anet A8s are hateful garbage piles. They're a pain to load and unload filament from, the Perspex frame is lovely and will warp and out of the ~50 I've helped put together 2 have tried to catch fire. One had a shorted bed out of the box, the other ripped its own wiring out of the back of the bed. I even found one that had tapped holes where it should have had untapped holes that was impossible to put together out of the box. *In master tang voice* "Well there you go"
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Oct 21, 2018 23:33
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Hum - I'm seeing the 500mm X5Ses on Aliexpress now for under $500. How bad are they? I have a couple designs for a similar size machine that would be arbitrarily rigid, but I don't really want to get to designing and troubleshooting my own design. I have no problem with trashing the electronics for something good and probably won't be doing anything other than PLA... and if I throw a Volcano at it and run a large nozzle as I intend, speeds are probably low enough rigidity won't be that much of an issue.
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Oct 22, 2018 00:22
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I just bought one of the x5s-400 printers, and it's been a bit of a money sink. New 24v PSU to run the bed, a MOSFET module tondo so safely, a new controller board (the CXY board you get is a melzi with no extra pins and no Arduino bootloader). Those are the "must have" upgrades, but you'll probably want to print out a whole lot of upgrades once you get it going. I added a bltouch, which is part of why I needed the new control board. Hint: stay away from the MKS-SBase. Not that it's a bad board, but the Smoothie community hate the board, and refuse to help with them. Smoothieware doesn't support a probe as an endstop, which I only found out after the fact, and was useless to me then. I also added a Volcano, and a x-chassis mounted titan extruder. The MKS-BASE 1.6 is a decent board, but if you go that route, there are a couple minor gotchas: the LCD display headers are rotated 180, and the power/ground pins on the servo headers are reversed. I thought I'd blown up my bltouch, but it was fine. It's not a good first printer, really. But if you're willing to add a little cash, and order some replacement parts, I can help you out. Most of the stuff is on Thingiverse, and I'll add links if you like. Anything for the X5S works, really. TwystNeko fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Oct 22, 2018 |
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Oct 22, 2018 04:47
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Jestery posted:Yes and no. The CR-10 is a step above Bargain Basement. I am running an AdimLabs Gantry, and the experience so far has been... spiritually taxing. It is 110% corner cut, stamped Chinese trash. The community is like 20 people, there are like 3 different boards, and no 2 printers work the same. It is literally desert island engineering to get this thing to keep working. I whould have paid the extra 60 bucks for a CR 10.
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Oct 22, 2018 06:43
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I picked up a tevo tornado, and it was a pretty good choice. Decent price, you can find some coupons and there's minimal "need to" upgrades.
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Oct 22, 2018 06:47
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Ok I looked around a bit and while the A8 upgrades are more of the "You need to do these upgrades or it will burn down your house, kill your children and summon PLA Satan" type, the Ender 3 upgrades are more like "you can do this to manage your cables better, heres a little tray you can attach to it...i guess, if you like that sort of thing" The Ender 3 seems way more thought out than the A8. Thanks for the advice guys, now to wait 35-40 business days for delivery 
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Oct 22, 2018 07:21
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I bought mine on Amazon. It was $20 more than ali or banggood, but I got it like the next day.
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Oct 22, 2018 07:25
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Yeah i'm having a look around but the best price on Amazon or Ebay is like 50€ more and thats a bit ridiculous. TomTop tells me its in stock in their german warehouse with a shipping time of 2-4 days but an estimateed arrival on November 30th which doesn't make that much sense. Maybe i'll order it anyway, its not like banggood or gearbest ar faster and i'll have to deal with import taxes and poo poo like that when i order it from china. Goddammit i made a decisions and i want my new toy NOW!
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Oct 22, 2018 08:53
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I have a dobot mooz 2 as my first printer, and I'm having some trouble keeping the outer edges of the build plate warm. Is there an easy fix short of building a full enclosure?
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Oct 22, 2018 09:58
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 Anyone have an idea why I'm getting these weird gaps? The slight discoloration makes me think humidity got to this roll, but I don't hear and popping. Only thing I've done recently is swap out M5 Z rods for TR8s. They're totally straight, and well lubricated, so I don't think that's the problem. Extruder is a Titan clone, no issues there. Printing temp doesn't seem to change anything, tried 190-215C My usual print speeds are 100-150mm/s, I've dropped it down to 75mm/s, still persists. Maybe it's coasting? I have no idea at this point.
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Oct 22, 2018 13:35
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Try playing with e-jerk. Perhaps, a lot of my issues kinda got simultaneously solved by a significant e-jerk bump
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Oct 22, 2018 13:41
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I had a similar issue caused by a tiny misalignment of the z axis stepper motor on my ender 3. had to print a spacer to fix it.
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Oct 22, 2018 21:17
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Shai-Hulud posted:Yeah i'm having a look around but the best price on Amazon or Ebay is like 50€ more and thats a bit ridiculous. TomTop tells me its in stock in their german warehouse with a shipping time of 2-4 days but an estimateed arrival on November 30th which doesn't make that much sense. Don't forget to account for import duties if you buy from China
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Oct 22, 2018 22:27
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Protip. The knockoff 3dtouch bed probe does not have preference as to Vin and Gnd of the limit switch The genuine BLtouch does have preference
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Oct 22, 2018 23:24
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TwystNeko posted:I just bought one of the x5s-400 printers, and it's been a bit of a money sink. New 24v PSU to run the bed, a MOSFET module tondo so safely, a new controller board (the CXY board you get is a melzi with no extra pins and no Arduino bootloader). Those are the "must have" upgrades, but you'll probably want to print out a whole lot of upgrades once you get it going. This will be my 3-4th printer or so if you count the ones I got running for my dad. Screwing with printers isn't my life but it's not my first rodeo. I was thinking Smoothie or maybe Klipper but then again it's not like a big volcano nozzle will have the movements going that fast. I'd totally appreciate some gotchas and links to necessary upgrades. I guess I'm just getting at "am I throwing my money away / should I just bite the bullet and design my own drat printer?"
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Oct 23, 2018 01:21
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I was not impressed with SmoothieWare - unlike Marlin, it feels like it's immature. The outright refusal to allow a probe to work as the endstop is an example of this - if you want a BLTouch, you'll still have to use a regular Z-endstop to zero the bed, THEN run custom G-code to do the levelling. Whereas Marlin just says "No problem. Want to autolevel with that too? Sure!". So my recommendation is to stick with a RAMPS-like board. As for upgrades I've done: - 24V 250W psu for the bed - MKS Mosfet board - BLTouch - Titan(Clone) extruder - Official E3D volcano setup. - 5015 blower fan - MKS-BASE 1.6 board. - lightweight "slimline" Nema17 for the titan. Things to print: - I printed the corner plates, idlers (need a 608ZZ in each) and spacers from this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2580773 - my Y carriages are actually rock solid, so I don't feel the need to replace them yet. - Print a bunch of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2771055 - they help make the frame properly square. - The belts aren't parallel at the X-Carriage, and will stretch if left this way. I used this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2815399. Print the endstop bit, but the tensioners aren't necessary. If you look in the comments, there's a bracket I got him to adjust, that'll put the BLTouch right behind the nozzle if you go the same route I did. - I printed a x-carriage that allows for tensioning the carriage, to eliminate slop (the stock one was really wobbly): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2895589 - same holes as the stock carriage, so it's a drop in replacement. You'll want 1mm washers between this and the wheels, for it to fit right. - As I have a titan extruder, I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2871308 , along with his recommended part cooler, fits perfectly. I dislike bowden extruders, so YMMV. Gotchas / Other Notes: - The stock board is terrible, like I said. Replace it. If you get an MKS-Base 1.6,it has exactly the same footprint and mounting holes as the stock board, so that's handy. - some of the pulleys are assembled crooked, so redo them. If you get an MKS-Base, the LCD connectors are rotated 180° - cut the keys off the LCD cables, and turn them around. You will also not have an SD Card available. Also, unlike most boards where servos are wired Signal/5V/GND, they are Signal/GND/5V. That's about all I can think of for now, let me know if you need anything else.
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Oct 23, 2018 02:18
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It should be pronounced "Tronski"  what a missed opportunity.
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Oct 23, 2018 02:41
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I'm pretty sure it's "Tronksy" 
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Oct 23, 2018 02:51
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TwystNeko posted:That's about all I can think of for now, let me know if you need anything else. That helps, thanks. I've been running a USB tethered smoothie for years so never really delved into the RAMPS/etc stuff as much, honestly. Yes, I know, I'm probably missing out on stuff - I've never done autoleveling or any of the rest, so maybe I'm missing out, whatever.  I think I actually have a RAMPS kicking around in my parts bin, come to think of it. Like I said, I imagine with a Volcano nothing will be moving that fast.
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Oct 23, 2018 03:02
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TwystNeko posted:
Can you link to some documentation about this please?
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Oct 23, 2018 03:08
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allow a probe to work as the endstop
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Is there a 3D modeling thread or can I ask questions here about that?
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Oct 23, 2018 04:24
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TwystNeko posted:I was not impressed with SmoothieWare - unlike Marlin, it feels like it's immature.  (Not a dig at you, just at what it reminds me of) I laugh because I briefly worked with devs who ported Smoothie (described as a clean and well maintained code base) to other architectures, whereas they would talk first hand about how Marlin was unmaintainable hack job spaghetti code held together with baling twine and duct tape from end to end and totally opaque to any dev who wasn't 100% immersed in it, so just kind of funny I guess that it comes across the opposite from other perspectives.
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Oct 23, 2018 04:58
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goodness posted:Is there a 3D modeling thread or can I ask questions here about that? There shouldn't be a problem asking your questions here
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Oct 23, 2018 04:59
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What would be the simplest way to make a model similar to this? I can't find anything on thingiverse that would work. I don't know much about using the software but it seems like it would be simple to make a sack 
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Oct 23, 2018 05:35
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 18:19 |
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Thats uh... a big ask to teach someone to model from scratch? Its a pretty simple model and modelling it is trivial for someone with experience. But getting someone else to understanding how to use a 3d package and the theory of modeling is a different thing.  Blender's pretty fast and free though. Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Oct 23, 2018 |
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Oct 23, 2018 05:52
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