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Maniaman posted:We are looking to build a break-room in my computer repair shop and would like to put a kitchen sink in it. However, the drain is on the opposite side of the room we are planning to convert to the break room. The shop is on a concrete slab and the only drain any of us know about is on the opposite side of the building by the existing bathroom. The room is across a hallway from the only drain, so going through an interior wall is out. We would prefer to not have to cut through the slab to run a new line if we don't have to. Does something exist that can pump everything up and run a drain line through the attic and then tie in to the existing drain on the other side of the building? Second year BC apprentice throwing my wrench into the ring. http://www.saniflo.ca/ Im Looking at installing one in my brothers basement.
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Jun 21, 2011 08:21
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I ran a forum search on backflow prevention and didn't find anything on my problem. Almost two years ago I had my hot/cold plumbing redone for my entire house, this included installing new outdoor faucets for hose connections. Because I had no use for a hose it's only been recently that I've hooked a hose up, it leaks. I seem to recall being told the faucets installed were ones with backflow prevention devices. It looks like this: Made in Indonesia - Proplus   Water is coming out from under the cap(?) on top, I crudely illustrated that. I have tried unscrewing the top part but it doesn't appear to come off. Lastly, I have an identical faucet on the front of my house that I haven't messed with yet, assuming it will either work or require the same repair that this one needs.
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Jun 26, 2011 22:43
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Totally TWISTED posted:I ran a forum search on backflow prevention and didn't find anything on my problem. Almost two years ago I had my hot/cold plumbing redone for my entire house, this included installing new outdoor faucets for hose connections. Because I had no use for a hose it's only been recently that I've hooked a hose up, it leaks. I seem to recall being told the faucets installed were ones with backflow prevention devices. It looks like this: That is the vaccum break, water usually comes out of it when the hose bib is being used then shut off. Its to prevent back flow.
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Jun 26, 2011 22:47
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That is the vaccum break, water usually comes out of it when the hose bib is being used then shut off. Its to prevent back flow. Attached the hose w/hose sprayer to test this out, should zero water be coming out of the vacuum break when water is coming out of the hose? I get some water coming out all the time, with an increase in volume if the hose doesn't have water coming out of it. Thanks for the quick reply!
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Jun 26, 2011 23:51
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Totally TWISTED posted:So this water coming out isn't going to cause a problem with my wall/foundation/crawlspace? It shouldn't be shooting water out all the time. It sounds like you have something stuck in the check valve of the vac breaker.
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Jun 27, 2011 00:20
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It shouldn't be shooting water out all the time. It sounds like you have something stuck in the check valve of the vac breaker. How would one go about replacing that part/this whole thing?
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Jun 27, 2011 00:32
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Totally TWISTED posted:Just tested without a hose attached, no water was coming out of the top like before, maybe a very miniscule trickle but I don't think so. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 02:19
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Find the brand of hose bib and google replacement vaccum breakers. It should only release water pressure when the hose bib is turned off. I can't really read the name on the handle to well but look at that and google the name. Then its simple just untwist the old one, remove it and put in the new one.
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Jun 27, 2011 04:45
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Totally TWISTED posted:This is what the handle says, "Made in Indonesia - Proplus" , I assume it's a stock part Hiller carries since they were the ones who did my plumbing. Apparently I'm a retard with Google, I'll try going to a local plumbing store tomorrow. I have never heard of the brand proplus and google gives me no help either. It looks like a standard soux cheif or Legend hosebib. What state are you in ?
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Jun 27, 2011 04:51
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have never heard of the brand proplus and google gives me no help either. It looks like a standard soux cheif or Legend hosebib. What state are you in
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Jun 27, 2011 07:43
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Totally TWISTED posted:Tennessee Go ask at a plumbing supply house then.
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Jun 27, 2011 15:49
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So this is probably a stupid question. I purchased a home this year, and the previous occupants showed me where all the sprinkler valves and such were, however we purchased the home before sprinklers were needed. A few weeks ago it finally stopped raining/snowing/being Utah and so I turned on the sprinkler system. There was the main valve about 4' under the front of the house, and then two sets of valves one in the front yard and one in the back yard. There are two sprinkler control boxes in the basement. I've read the instructions and checked the manufacturer's site (Orbit), but for some reason it seems like two sections of the system will not turn on. I've attempted to google basic sprinkler troubleshooting and everything starts out way over my head, talking about wiring and connection boxes and such. I did manage to replace two of the non-functional sprinkler heads with new equipment from the piping up just to see if there was any visible blocking, but I'm not even seeing signs of moisture in them. Am I basically stuck calling someone to come resolve this issue or are there any "beginner" type guides that I can look into?
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Jul 4, 2011 01:31
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Mulloy posted:So this is probably a stupid question. I purchased a home this year, and the previous occupants showed me where all the sprinkler valves and such were, however we purchased the home before sprinklers were needed. A few weeks ago it finally stopped raining/snowing/being Utah and so I turned on the sprinkler system. There was the main valve about 4' under the front of the house, and then two sets of valves one in the front yard and one in the back yard. If the zones aren't getting water you most likely have a stuck or bad cylinoid valve. Google how to trouble shoot those would be your first step.
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Jul 5, 2011 17:21
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My better half just bought a brand new townhome, including a dishwasher. We found yesterday that the dishwasher always leaves about 2 inches of water in the bottom when it is done running. Right now it drains from underneath, up about 2 feet through a hole in the cabinet into the sink's garbage disposal through the side. I found one mention on Google that said the line has to at some point be higher than the entry to the disposal or water may flow back down into the dishwasher when the pump cuts off. I haven't tested this yet, but it seems sort of fishy to me. Any help would be appreciated.
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Jul 5, 2011 18:32
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Dragyn posted:My better half just bought a brand new townhome, including a dishwasher. We found yesterday that the dishwasher always leaves about 2 inches of water in the bottom when it is done running. If the dishwasher drains straight into the disposal with out hitting an air gap first it can cause issues if the sewer backs up. Either support the pipe up high and see if it prevents it but it sounds like it could be the problem. And regardless the pipe should have a high point to prevent any food being washed into the dishwasher.
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Jul 5, 2011 18:38
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Two questions: 1) I came home yesterday and found that both of my toilets (in adjacent rooms) had somehow shot water up and around the seat and floor. There wasn't a ton; I saw water around the seat the base. It wasn't a puddle, it just looked like a dog drank out of the bowl and left a small mess. The tank was full, but the bowl itself was near empty. I flushed it and they both work perfectly now. I went underneath the house to see if something was leaking but everything looked perfect. Could this be some kind of sewage issue, or a fluke? Maybe the city did some unannounced cleaning or there was a block in the sewage? I am leaving for vacation soon (3 weeks) and would hate to come back to a smelly bathroom.. 2) I have a piping system in the laundry room that was installed last year. The water comes out fine, but the water from the washer drains into the sink. I don't think the guy installed the sink properly though, as the water drains extremely slowly. There used to be two drain holes, one for waste and the other I think for air? The water used to drain at a normal pace, but if there was a lot of water, the water would shoot out of the other drain hole. The contractor came back and just filled the hole with some ALEX caulk. The water doesn't come out anymore, but goes down extremely slowly. I don't really care about it, but I figure if it can be fixed I might as well do it. The currently filled drain hole got cut, so there are no threads..
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Jul 7, 2011 19:06
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Bank posted:Two questions: Is this a house you live in? The toilet shouldnt be shooting out any water ever. It could have backed up and the last flush just made it over flow a little. Try flushing it numerous times to burden the drain and see if it does it again. Or just keep pouring 5 gallon buckets down it to make it quicker. The other one could be slightly clogged, it wouldnt hurt to snake through the drain. It still does need a vent but with out a picture I can't really say more.
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Jul 7, 2011 19:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Is this a house you live in? The toilet shouldnt be shooting out any water ever. It could have backed up and the last flush just made it over flow a little. Try flushing it numerous times to burden the drain and see if it does it again. Or just keep pouring 5 gallon buckets down it to make it quicker.
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Jul 7, 2011 19:34
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Bank posted:Yes, I live in the home. What's weird is that the water appeared on both toilets, in the exact same manner. I'll give both of them a good amount of flushing tonight. The only thing I could think of is if there's a cat running around my house causing trouble, but I have no pets. Ya if it wasnt a puddle I don't know what to tell you.
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Jul 7, 2011 20:17
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the zones aren't getting water you most likely have a stuck or bad cylinoid valve. Google how to trouble shoot those would be your first step. So the good news is I ended up trying the manual bleed and everything came on. The bad news is one of the recommended steps before tearing apart the valve is to check the voltage to the valve, but I do not own a voltmeter and have only used one once in high school. Any recommendations on where to go with this? Such as is there a specific type or model recommended for this or just in general? I doubt I'll have much repeat use for it so I don't know that it'd need to be crazy awesome on options and such. On a side note, the heads which had not worked ran for like 20 minutes or so before they stopped once I capped the manual bleed screw again. Is that normal? Edit: They didn't _all_ turn off after 20 minutes like I thought. (Hooray huge water bill and wasting water!) Most of them turned off, but the few that were acting up won't turn off unless I go to the control box and tell the whole system to turn off. I checked the timing and it's 15 minutes, but the "bad" section now won't shut off without a manual ending of the system, which works fine. I can do this since I have them set to go at dusk and before dawn, both periods of time which I am awake during. What would cause this? From what I've read it seems like the valve is clogged or bad, but I've not seen this specific issue, and I don't want to go digging up and replacing a valve if there's something else that could cause this behavior. Mulloy fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jul 10, 2011 |
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Jul 9, 2011 23:12
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Do you have to use plumbers putty when replacing a sink drain or can you use caulking? My sink drain suuuuucks, and plumbers putty suuuuucks. What kind of caulking is acceptable?
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Jul 11, 2011 03:58
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insta posted:Do you have to use plumbers putty when replacing a sink drain or can you use caulking? My sink drain suuuuucks, and plumbers putty suuuuucks. What kind of caulking is acceptable? Plumbers putty doesnt seal the drain. It just keeps stuff from getting stuck between the drain and the sink. Clear Caulking will work just fine.
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Jul 11, 2011 04:01
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Question from someone that doesn't know anything about plumbing: My landlord had to change our faucet a couple months ago now, and for some reason he also changed out the PVC underneath the sink. Since then, the water coming from that faucet continually has that plastic PVC smell. Is this a problem other than smelling bad? Did he use the wrong kind of PVC? I does seem to have a different taste too, but I can't tell if that's just cause of the smell altering my perception of it. Like I said, it's been a few months but the smell hasn't gone away yet.
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Jul 13, 2011 12:57
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Orgophlax posted:Question from someone that doesn't know anything about plumbing: Are you sure its pvc? It is white pipe? If he used the pvc on the hot side there is a good chance its eating itself. And soon you will wake up to a flood. If its cpvc you are using it could just be that he you arent use to a plastic taste.
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Jul 13, 2011 13:45
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It's white pipe. I'm not sure if it's on the hot side as I'm pretty sure the smell is only there with cold water. I can't look at it right now since I'm at work. Is there any writing on it that I can tell the difference? And it's not just the taste. There is a noticeable plastic pvc smell that emanates from the faucet when it's running. I know the smell cause I built a hockey net out of PVC once.
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Jul 13, 2011 13:56
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Orgophlax posted:It's white pipe. I'm not sure if it's on the hot side as I'm pretty sure the smell is only there with cold water. I can't look at it right now since I'm at work. Is there any writing on it that I can tell the difference? If its on the hot side also it will eat the pipe. If its just on the cold side there really isnt much you can do. Have you talked to your landlord yet?
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Jul 13, 2011 13:59
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the dishwasher drains straight into the disposal with out hitting an air gap first it can cause issues if the sewer backs up. Either support the pipe up high and see if it prevents it but it sounds like it could be the problem. And regardless the pipe should have a high point to prevent any food being washed into the dishwasher. Just to follow up on this, a plumber came out on the builder's dime and found that some cap in the disposal needed to be removed. I wasn't present, but I assume it was some sort of vent cap.
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Jul 17, 2011 01:33
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Dragyn posted:Just to follow up on this, a plumber came out on the builder's dime and found that some cap in the disposal needed to be removed. I wasn't present, but I assume it was some sort of vent cap. Hah that is funny. It was actually the plumbers fault. If you don't remove the plug in the disposal to hook up the dish washer it will never let the dishwasher drain. Ive seen a lot of plumbers make the mistake and have to go back to a job.
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Jul 17, 2011 20:45
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We've run into another small problem with the new place. The builder accidentally left the water on the outside spigot through the winter and it cracked on the body of the actual sillcock. (as opposed to the plate it's threaded to that is sweated to the PEX) I found the exact make/model of the part (the 1/2 inch one): http://www.ravenproducts.us/PDFs/Spec%20Sheets/1165_1166_Sweat.pdf I really only need half of it, but I've only been able to find it in one place online for $11 + plus $11 shipping. Any idea where I might find one at a fair price?
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Jul 17, 2011 22:39
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Dragyn posted:We've run into another small problem with the new place. The builder accidentally left the water on the outside spigot through the winter and it cracked on the body of the actual sillcock. (as opposed to the plate it's threaded to that is sweated to the PEX) What state do you live in? I can't believe they installed that for a hose bib. And not an actually frost free hose bib then you never have to worry about it freezing. And $11 isnt to bad, you can get something simlar at home depot. You will just have to unthread the old one and tape and dope the threads. Then put the new one in.
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Jul 17, 2011 22:43
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:What state do you live in? I can't believe they installed that for a hose bib. And not an actually frost free hose bib then you never have to worry about it freezing. We're in Mass (where the winter routinely falls into the low teens). All three townhome units have those on the front and back. It's not th $11 that bothers me, it's the $11 shipping on top of it. I went to Lowes to check for a replacement, but from what they were able to find, I'd have to replace the whole thing and sweat in a new one. I've pretty much resigned myself to that, but you've come up with some pretty good ideas before, so I figured I'd give it a shot.
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Jul 18, 2011 19:01
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Dragyn posted:We're in Mass (where the winter routinely falls into the low teens). All three townhome units have those on the front and back. I don't know what plumbing code they use there but they should have installed frost free hosebibs. It wouldnt be to hard to install one, are you good at sweating copper? If not you can use a shark bite.
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Jul 18, 2011 19:19
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I don't know what plumbing code they use there but they should have installed frost free hosebibs. It wouldnt be to hard to install one, are you good at sweating copper? If not you can use a shark bite. I've never personally sweated before, I've seen it done at least a dozen times though. They suggested a sharkbite at Lowes, but I've never used one of those either. May be the best shot I've got. It's alright to put one of those inside a wall?
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Jul 18, 2011 19:28
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So thanks to the thread my sprinklers are fine, however I have a general information question. Last night my wife was doing something in the bathroom and ended up tripping over the toiler somehow, and it loosened a bit. She tried to move it back to be center, and that was that. This morning, about 13-14 hours later, I came home and found a bubble in my ceiling in a lower floor. It was about 14" in diameter and from the dampness of the carpet it had only just begun to leak. I found a small seeping from the base of the toiler, it was very minimal, I could barely see it once I realized it was there/touched it. I shut off the water to the toilet, drained any water in it with a cup/towel, dried the floor, and then put a dry towel around the base as a precaution. I could see where the water was seeping into the molding on the wall. There's a very small gap between the molding and the tile. Anyway, the bubble was about 10' away on the ceiling of a lower floor as I mentioned, so I'm not sure what path it took or what else in my ceiling could be wet/messed up. My question is when the plumber shows up, what things should I be prepared to ask him/make sure I know about, and is there anything I can do to make his job easier other than just leave everything alone.
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Jul 18, 2011 20:47
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Dragyn posted:I've never personally sweated before, I've seen it done at least a dozen times though. If you don't have a torch and flux and solder, or access too. Then use a shark bite. Before you attach it make sure you sand and lube the fitting. Vegitable oil will work great to lube it. I usually put some on my finger and rub it on the pipe about an inch up (depending on the shark bite fitting) and then rub it on the O ring of the fitting itself. Make sure to use the stiffener when putting the pex in it. I usually remove the stiffener and put it in the pipe then slide the shark bite over it. Now shark bites arent perfect, they can leak over time due to the chlorine eating the rubber but you should be good for a long time as long as its not touched. Mulloy posted:So thanks to the thread my sprinklers are fine, however I have a general information question. Last night my wife was doing something in the bathroom and ended up tripping over the toiler somehow, and it loosened a bit. She tried to move it back to be center, and that was that. Cut out the drywall so he can always double check his work but if the toilet rocks then that is most likely the problem. Also since the drywall will have to be removed to patch it, it wont hurt you any. Take all the stuff around the toilet out, like garbage can and or magazines. The more open work space he has the nicer. Also unless you wife tried to tackle the toilet I doubt she broke it fully. It sounds like the toilet had issues to begin with. Since bumping into it wouldn't usually rip out the bolts. Unless the floor has already been rotting and you've had a problem for awhile. Did the toilet ever rock when you were sitting on it(before she bumped it)?
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Jul 19, 2011 02:08
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That type of drain makes it a bitch to install the pan. If you get the type of drain that attaches to the pan then you slide the pan over the already glued in pipe . They have a rubber washer that is long that goes between the drain and the pipe. Then a metal nut screws inside of the drain to seal the the rubber around the drain.
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Jul 22, 2011 04:14
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bssoil posted:Back to the shower drain questions 6 weeks later....I have tried to install this kind of drain from the video and it looks like the rubber washer bottoms out in the drain apparatus well before being flush with the ABS pipe. This seems like it is a bad thing, and I suspect the drain pipe is not long enough. Any advice? Will the metal nut still be able to make a suitable seal? You may have to cut the abs pipe like a 1/4 inch under the drain with an inside cutter. And the metal nut squishing the rubber gasket around the pipe will make it seal.
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Jul 23, 2011 01:49
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Dumb question I can't seem to find an answer to - What kind of box do I need to use when putting a natural gas connector inside a wall? Longer version - in my wash room the gas line, washer drain and dryer vent come straight up through the floor behind the washer and dryer. I intend to extend the wall out so that everything is inside the wall. The washer drain is easy, I've ordered a Dryerbox for the dryer vent but I can't figure out what to use for the gas line. Is there a special or recommended way to keep the connection on the line available that looks good with a finished wall?
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Jul 24, 2011 14:05
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TouchyMcFeely posted:Dumb question I can't seem to find an answer to - What kind of box do I need to use when putting a natural gas connector inside a wall? Here is what i've always used. http://www.amazon.com/Dryerbox-DB-500-Retro-Fit-Receptacle-Dryers/dp/B003AOBZTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311525054&sr=8-1 See the smaller hole on the right side. Drill that out and run your gas line into there. Then attach a ball valve and drip leg.
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Jul 24, 2011 17:32
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Well crud. I ordered the DB3D dryer box which looks like it has the smaller punch out but it's on the wrong side. I'm not particularly comfortable playing with or changing the gas line so if there's another, smaller option I would appreciate it.
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Jul 24, 2011 20:17
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