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Combat Pretzel posted:So, I hear Klipper is the bee's knees? Maybe, but what do racquet-stringers have to do with anything? quote:Also, anyone here been crazy enough to build a Voron 2.1 yet? There is some stuff about it on reddit but I don't think anybody here has bothered with it.
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Oct 25, 2018 19:38
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Uh, guys? Check this out. https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=30993&seq=1&format=2 The "easy swap hotend" bit has me wishing I had $1,500 laying around.
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Oct 25, 2018 20:09
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Maybe, but what do racquet-stringers have to do with anything?
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Oct 25, 2018 20:47
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Has anyone used a dual extruder printer that is cheap and they like? I have some potential uses for one but low budget. Fortunately, I don't need much build volume. I was looking at those Cube 3 printers that you can supposedly use hacked firmware to strip the filament DRM out of, but I wouldn't mind not having to gently caress around with something too much just to get it to work.
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Oct 25, 2018 21:40
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Rexxed posted:Has anyone used a dual extruder printer that is cheap and they like? I have some potential uses for one but low budget. Fortunately, I don't need much build volume. I was looking at those Cube 3 printers that you can supposedly use hacked firmware to strip the filament DRM out of, but I wouldn't mind not having to gently caress around with something too much just to get it to work. Here are your options for 3d printers: -cheap -safe and functional -dual extruder Pick two.
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Oct 25, 2018 23:50
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The PowerSpec Pro Duo I had was great. Smaller build volume (maybe 5x7x6), but enclosed and dual extruder. It cost me $700, I printed $700 worth of poo poo on it, then sold it for $500 with extra plastic and maintenance performed.
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Oct 26, 2018 00:38
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Combat Pretzel posted:Klipper is some new firmware. It's a two parter. One controller specific firmware turns the board into a glorified interface and a RPi3 then runs the show (controlling all items, path planning, and so on). I’ve been using it on an Ender3. It seems to produce marginally better output than Marlin (though I haven’t exactly tested in depth).
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Oct 26, 2018 01:36
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Rexxed posted:Has anyone used a dual extruder printer that is cheap and they like? I have some potential uses for one but low budget. Fortunately, I don't need much build volume. I was looking at those Cube 3 printers that you can supposedly use hacked firmware to strip the filament DRM out of, but I wouldn't mind not having to gently caress around with something too much just to get it to work. If you’re talking about the 3D systems one then I’d recommend against it. It’s objectively not a good printer even it wasn’t gimped by DRM. All the low cost dual extruder printers have fixed parallel hot ends which risk catching the print, or oozing.
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Oct 26, 2018 07:54
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Neat. I have a new RPi3 inbound for it next week. Anything's better than Smoothieware at this point.
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Oct 26, 2018 10:53
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Just started using my simply3d license because I saw 4.0 came out. Wanted to see what it's settings was like for the prusa. For me, PETG is always an adventure when using slic3r pe; perfect for multiple models that don't take up much space, but fuuuuuck I have the worst time with large areas. I'm on standby for the first layer. S3D gcode makes huge chunky thick first layers and it's feels great I don't have to watch it as much. That and the fact the prusa has built in checks to stop a print if something is wrong makes it doubly sure I am not going to come back to an extruder having a waltz with a big spaghetti ball. The thing I hate S3D is it is super rough with the extruder. It sounds like straight up murder on the gears.
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Oct 26, 2018 16:38
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You know you can change the first layer settings in Slic3r too, right? They're scattered around a bit but try these: (All of these are in Print Settings) Layers and Perimeters > First layer height Speed > Modifiers > First layer speed Speed > Speed for print moves > Solid infill Advanced > Extrusion Width > First layer Support material > Raft layers
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Oct 26, 2018 17:45
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Sagebrush posted:You know you can change the first layer settings in Slic3r too, right? They're scattered around a bit but try these: Not even going to play that game. Played it with my non-prusa and loving with those specific settings is a nightmare. Especially extrusion width. Mannnn gently caress that setting.
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Oct 26, 2018 19:01
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EVIL Gibson posted:The thing I hate S3D is it is super rough with the extruder. It sounds like straight up murder on the gears. That really isn't a function of S3D unless you have "force retraction" enabled and really high/fast retraction values.
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Oct 26, 2018 21:07
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biracial bear for uncut posted:That really isn't a function of S3D unless you have "force retraction" enabled and really high/fast retraction values. It was a default profile from a default install. Weird....
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Oct 26, 2018 22:00
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Spent half a day trying to clean our machines and print at the same time which was a pain in the rear end. Had an extruder clog with hardened filament that just would not budge. Had to use a really small drill bit to destroy the blockage so it could be pushed through. I really don't want to do that again so whats the best method to unclog a bullshit extruder when pulls don't work? I lust for Makerbot death. Putty fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Oct 26, 2018 |
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Oct 26, 2018 23:40
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Honestly, acetone if you print abs would be best. I just swap nozzles though cause they are cheap as hell. I also don't print abs, just pla.
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Oct 26, 2018 23:46
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Just had a 10 hour print fail because I forgot to put on bed clips. Lesson learnt, PLA lost and my wardrobe is no closer
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Oct 26, 2018 23:47
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Honestly, acetone if you print abs would be best. I just swap nozzles though cause they are cheap as hell. I also don't print abs, just pla. Oh poo poo I forgot to mention the plastic. We only print in PLA. If something dissolves that that would be nice. When I finally got that poo poo out of the extruder it farted out black smoke, so some burning was involved. As for the nozzles we've never changed them. I probably should do that next time for a bad clog if we're in a pinch, which is every time. Putty fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Oct 27, 2018 |
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Oct 26, 2018 23:55
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Jestery posted:Just had a 10 hour print fail because I forgot to put on bed clips. If you really are planning on living a bachelor lifestyle, you should just leave your clean clothes to rumple in the dryer / basket until you are ready to put them on. Your 3d printer was meant for a more noble purpose, like making anime girl busts or a small fleet of cartoon tugboats.
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Oct 27, 2018 00:04
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My preferred way is getting them hot enough that the plastic burns away. It's pretty easy and fast to do it with a torch. It does need a bit of practice. You'll probably destroy the first few nozzles you try though, it's easy to get the brass too hot and deform or even melt it.
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Oct 27, 2018 00:10
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Nevets posted:If you really are planning on living a bachelor lifestyle, you should just leave your clean clothes to rumple in the dryer / basket until you are ready to put them on. Your 3d printer was meant for a more noble purpose, like making anime girl busts or a small fleet of cartoon tugboats. Hahaha *Brings home lass from tinder* "So have you heard about Tom Sanlanderer and why he is wrong?" *Collapses into a ball pit of benchys*
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Oct 27, 2018 00:32
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Putty posted:Oh poo poo I forgot to mention the plastic. We only print in PLA. If something dissolves that that would be nice. When I finally got that poo poo out of the extruder it farted out black smoke, so some burning was involved. The only solvent I've found that reliably dissolves PLA is methylene chloride. It is relatively poisonous and you can't buy it in California any more. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Oct 27, 2018 |
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Oct 27, 2018 01:20
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Brass nozzles are what, 50 cents each? Buy a few bags of them and treat them as wear items.
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Oct 27, 2018 01:44
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Jestery posted:Just had a 10 hour print fail because I forgot to put on bed clips. Walked through a hardware store today and these clamps were on special, Nail meet hammer 
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Oct 27, 2018 03:17
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Just in case I'd test the pads on those clamps to make sure they aren't going to melt or deform once you start heating the bed up.
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Oct 27, 2018 03:44
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So I've had a monoprice mini v2 for about 6-7 months now and thinking about upgrading to something with a little more volume. Ideally I'd like to have a printer that doesn't need a lot of tinkering and mostly works out of the box. I prefer to spend more time printing than tweaking. As far as what I plan on printing. I've been printing various things from board game containers, miniature stands, brio train tracks for the kids, and whatever I can come up with. I plan on getting a little heavier into my own 3d modeling and general futzing. My budget can go up to $1000 but if I can get what I want for cheaper I'll do it. Is there any reason not to get a real Prusa? I was thinking of getting an assembled one as I'm generally not a patient person with assembly and I've read most folks take several hours to put together. That is time I prefer to print though I suspect assembling it might help me better understand the system when I do have to tinker as I assume at this price point there is always some level of tinkering.
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Oct 27, 2018 05:51
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Nevets posted:Just in case I'd test the pads on those clamps to make sure they aren't going to melt or deform once you start heating the bed up. It's an unheated bed. But thanks for the concern. I've been opting to use a polycarbonate bed and to weakly plastic weld my print to it. Works well for PETG and PLA which is probably all I'm Gunna print with it
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Oct 27, 2018 06:00
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spoon daddy posted:Is there any reason not to get a real Prusa? I was thinking of getting an assembled one as I'm generally not a patient person with assembly and I've read most folks take several hours to put together. That is time I prefer to print though I suspect assembling it might help me better understand the system when I do have to tinker as I assume at this price point there is always some level of tinkering. Buy the MK3 kit, you can build it blindfolded. Literally: https://youtu.be/nVabEM2PN4M Yes I did that, and yes it was tedious and stupid. If you’re in CA I’ll build it for you.
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Oct 27, 2018 14:45
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Kill, meet Over. 
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Oct 27, 2018 17:56
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Am I crazy for trying to think of ways to minimize frame vibration / deflection on my Ender 3? I've got the filament path really smoothed out with Capricorn PTFE + metal extruder stuff + better couplings + moving the spool down to sit on bearings right next to the extruder for a straight-in path, and my under-extrusion problems are almost nonexistent now. The only thing that is bothering me is slight (and I do mean slight) inconsistency in start of layer placement - now and then, after a particularly sharp corner / sudden direction change of the print head, I'll see the next layer start a few microns away from the last and as the head rounds the circumference of that structure it gradually comes back in line. I have to believe that when layer heights are .1mm and other tolerances aren't much larger, even the smallest amount of vibration or movement of the aluminum frame of the printer will result in inconsistent placement of the extrusion - or worse, echoes / ghosting /etc. My thought is to focus on ways to stiffen and stabilize the whole printer, starting with the highest points (like keeping a skyskraper from rebounding too much in the wind, you either reduce the amount of weight placed up high on the structure or stiffen / counterweight it so the energy which would be causing resonance or serious deflection is used up by mass lower in the structure) so that the energy imparted by sudden head velocity changes won't cause the entire printer to move. Pictured is my latest print, Aria the Dragon on my Ender, .1mm layer height. Very happy with it, one of my cleanest prints yet, but I can't help but notice some layers are placed a few microns away from the previous. The only thing I can think of is the fast movement of the print head is causing the entire printer to move, thus the visible irregularities. Am I tripping to think this can be improved by reducing frame movement via stiffening / mass increase?  edit to add that ofc I can reduce accelerations to the point where there's minimal energy being imparted into the frame during direction changes but I don't want every print to take 3 or 4 times longer than it has to, I would very much like to keep print speeds around stock in Cura to minimize time. Maybe I'm being greedy with a $200 Zhōngguó special. edit2 - this is a CR-10 but the general principle applies. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzebS8FLwbM r.y.f.s.o. fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 27, 2018 |
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Oct 27, 2018 18:20
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eltoozero posted:Buy the MK3 kit, you can build it blindfolded. Not in CA unfortunately but how long would a first time assemble take?
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Oct 27, 2018 20:04
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I've heard someone took around 9 hours to build it while livestreaming. If you value that time higher than $250 then you might want to buy it pre-assembled.
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Oct 27, 2018 20:17
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Finally decided to give Marlin firmware a try on a Wanhao I3. Took a bit getting used to the menu compared to Repetier, but I'm really liking this manual mesh bed leveling so far. Even using a sheet of glass, I find the center is higher than the outer edges. Even a simple 3x3 mesh is coming out very nicely doing some layer tests around the bed. The K factor for adjusting extrusions at corners should be nice too, since I tend to only run 8 jerk and 800 accel.
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Oct 27, 2018 20:33
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spoon daddy posted:Not in CA unfortunately but how long would a first time assemble take? 4-6 hours for a LEGO minded person. If you’re not technically adept it may be more like 8-9.
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Oct 27, 2018 20:38
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Golluk posted:Finally decided to give Marlin firmware a try on a Wanhao I3. Took a bit getting used to the menu compared to Repetier, but I'm really liking this manual mesh bed leveling so far. Even using a sheet of glass, I find the center is higher than the outer edges. Even a simple 3x3 mesh is coming out very nicely doing some layer tests around the bed. The K factor for adjusting extrusions at corners should be nice too, since I tend to only run 8 jerk and 800 accel. Marlin 2.0?
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Oct 27, 2018 21:27
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r.y.f.s.o. posted:Am I crazy for trying to think of ways to minimize frame vibration / deflection on my Ender 3? Rigidity is the fundamental basis of mechanical accuracy. There's a reason that a mill or lathe that can cut a chunk of steel to a .0001" tolerance tends to weigh thousands of pounds. So no, bracing the frame or adding rigidity in other ways is not unreasonable. However, it's been my experience that a 3D printer's frame is not usually the culprit when you perceive things like minor layer wiggles or corner shifts. Usually it's more about how strong and rigid the extruder carriage mechanism is. Grab your extruder and try to wiggle it up and down a bit; you might be surprised at how much play you can feel, and that's usually due to slop in the bearings or the nature of the cantilevered support or whatever. Also consider that if your printer has a moving bed, the part itself can wobble as it slides back and forth -- this is particularly pronounced on tall thin objects like Aria. A delta or coreXY design will be superior in that respect. Issues like improper layer cooling will also have an effect, because if the plastic shifts and settles after it's laid down, that will give you visible surface artifacts. That's not to say that the frame can't also be a problem, but look at those other sources of error as well. Ultimately, you just may not be able to get the part quality you want and the speed you want simultaneously without entirely redesigning the machine. That's an accepted fact in the machining world, where you have to think about things like how much your tungsten carbide end mill is going to deflect when subjected to the cutting forces required, and adjust the aggressiveness of your cut accordingly. Fast - Cheap - Good: pick any two
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Oct 27, 2018 21:45
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If accuracy is the absolute priority for a particular print you could try adjusting overall speed.
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Oct 27, 2018 21:54
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Anyone here have any experience with eSun's ABS+? The plus isn't a typo. They say it has an order of magnitude less warp than their regular ABS. I'm looking at it to print the Voron parts on my shitbox printer.
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Oct 27, 2018 22:12
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Combat Pretzel posted:Anyone here have any experience with eSun's ABS+? The plus isn't a typo. They say it has an order of magnitude less warp than their regular ABS. I'm looking at it to print the Voron parts on my shitbox printer. It does have less warp as advertised. Not zero warp but less.
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Oct 27, 2018 22:20
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Update on project wardrobe Troubleshooting on large prints that can fail is a bit annoying. I am a little mentally stuck on where z offsets are relatively to compared to z0 , the offset required to get that perfect first layer and whether this stuff is positive or negative. I'll get it if I stare at my machine long enough But so far, so good.  
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Oct 28, 2018 01:24
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