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Digirat posted:I'm interested in an i7-8700 but last I checked it was out of stock everywhere. It looks like amazon has it in stock right now though? Do I need to jump on this poo poo right now? The stock situation for Cannon Lake should slowly improve, but if you see the 8700 up for MSRP then there's probably not much reason to wait since it's not like you're going to see a substantial sale on it anytime soon. I guess the main reason would be the potential of saving a bit of cash when H370 motherboards come out, but that doesn't seem very significant. I think going overkill on PSUs is a good thing, it's just that you're putting an 850W supply with a 300-350W system so I wanted to make sure you're not paying too much for it. You could go down a notch or two and still have way more headroom than you'll ever need unless you go dual-GPU and overclock a lot. Running in the middle of the efficiency curve is great but it's not necessary to get a PSU that will never even hit 50% load for that. alex314 posted:How stupid of an idea is getting TR1900X and X399 board now? The idea would be to get the latest TR goodness in two years with some high tech monitor and GPU. For now I'd run GTX1060 6GB on full hd 60Hz monitor. Seems like about as reasonable of a time to do it as any. As you say, it doesn't seem like the sTR4 platform is getting replaced soon. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 15:39
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Thanks, I'll grab the i7-8700 while I can then. I'll look into a motherboard more after work since the one I listed was based on the i7-6700, but this one looks pretty good (ASRock Z370 Pro4 LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z370 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard) I based the 850W on the specifications for the 1080, which recommends a 500W or greater PSU. Is that recommendation already factoring in some "safe" overkill?
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Nov 6, 2017 16:31
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The actual power use of the 1080 is capped at 180W under stock settings, they quote you figures like that because they have no idea what else is in your system and don't want to hear complaining from people who are already running a Broadwell-E with a custom loop doing 250W or 10 hard drives or whatever. Even if we assume the 65W TDP of the 8700 is a dirty lie or gets broken under AVX, you'll need a lot of other stuff going on in that system to break 350W. With on-CPU-die memory controllers and PCIe controllers the motherboard doesn't use much power by itself anymore, SSDs are <5W and HDDs are ~10 each. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 17:00
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If I'm not doing a lot of first-person shooters or major new releases, is it worth getting a GTX 1060 vs a GTX 1050? Both are an upgrade over what I used to run, but one being twice the price is rather steep for me.
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Nov 6, 2017 17:13
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We need to know what resolution and refresh rate you're running at to give a complete recommendation, but in general if you're not running intensive games from the past couple years a 1050 will probably be fine. Can you give some examples of games you'd like to perform well?
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 17:27
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Eletriarnation posted:We need to know what resolution and refresh you're running at to give a complete recommendation, but in general if you're not running intensive games from the past couple years a 1050 will probably be fine. Can you give some examples of games you'd like to perform well? Pretty sure I was running 1920x1080.... probably at 60hz? I'm not big into pushing performance so it was all very standard on an old GTX 760. Lately I was playing the latest Hitman, Distant Worlds: Universe, Warframe and Warthunder, Stellaris... a lot of strategy games which tend to have a much lower graphical threshhold. I'd say the most graphically intense thing I've played lately was X3: Albion Prelude.
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Nov 6, 2017 17:33
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What country are you in? US What are you using the system for? Transcoding video (raw to FFV1) What's your budget? ~$500-1000 per machine ($5000 total budget, would like to buy multiple) If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? ffmpeg + python I'm looking some options for local transcode stations at work. We generally get 2-3 8TB USB hard drives of raw video per week that we need to compress down using a codec that only has CPU-encoding. Is an i7 NUC going to be strong enough for that task? The guy I'm working with is quoting 15MB/s/core/GHz for encoding speed, but I'm not sure if the low-power variant in the NUC puts up the same numbers as a regular desktop processor. Some weeks we get over 100TB, so I have the budget to buy multiple stations. And if a NUC is enough, is it better to grab the 4 core/8 thread Sky Lake Skull Canyon NUC or the 2 core/4 thread Kaby Lake NUC? Giant Metal Robot fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 17:34
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Rhjamiz posted:Pretty sure I was running 1920x1080.... probably at 60hz? I'm not big into pushing performance so it was all very standard on an old GTX 760. I don't know about the others but Stellaris runs great at 4K on a 1060, it's really my CPU that holds me back and only in large-scale battles on Fast or higher speeds. I assume it would have no problems at 1080p on a 1050. That said... I am not sure if a 1050 is really much better than a 760. You should probably look for some head-to-head comparison videos so you can see what I mean, but they don't seem far apart.
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Nov 6, 2017 17:41
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Eletriarnation posted:I don't know about the others but Stellaris runs great at 4K on a 1060, it's really my CPU that holds me back and only in large-scale battles on Fast or higher speeds. I assume it would have no problems at 1080p on a 1050. Yeah, they definitely don't, comparing them. HMM. I guess I'll try to spring for a 1060. EDIT: Actually, speaking of all that, is an SSD really that necessary for gaming these days? I've got 16gigs of RAM. Given that I'm not pushing for the highest end of gaming I don't know if I'd actually benefit from an SSD. Rhjamiz fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 18:09
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Rhjamiz posted:Yeah, they definitely don't, comparing them. HMM. I guess I'll try to spring for a 1060. An SSD only influences loading times for games. It can (maybe) make a difference for huge open world games like GTA 5 or the Witcher 3 and the like. Since SSDs are huge QOL improvements though, the usual advice to save money is to get a small SSD (250gb) for the OS and most used apps, and a big HDD for games and media.
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Nov 6, 2017 18:47
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Yeah, an SSD isn't really necessary for anything but it's a huge quality of life increase. Even getting a 128GB one just for your OS will make a really noticeable difference, but with 250/256 or larger you'll be able to comfortably fit a few games with long load times in too. I noticed it made the most difference for games with frequent load screens (WoW) or lots of DLC (Skyrim, Sims 3).
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Nov 6, 2017 19:26
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Thanks in advance for advice! What country are you in? US What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? around $500 now, maybe another $500 in the next few months If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? 1920x1080 or 1080p I'm looking to upgrade my current rig which is a mish-mash of parts from my last two self-built PCs in early 2015 and 2011. CPU: Intel - Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: ASRock - H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($227.58 @ OutletPC) Memory 12gb of ancient DDR3 1600 Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 760 2GB AMP! Edition Video Card Case: Cooler Master - N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz) **Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.99 @ Amazon) **It's actually an older model Corsair 550W from 2011 so it's probably worth replacing. I'm looking to spend about $500 in the next week and maybe another $500 in the next couple months to upgrade my system. What are my highest priorities? I'd like to run games on fairly high graphics settings at 1080p. -I definitely need to replace my graphics card, that seems like the highest priority. -Should I consider upgrading my CPU? It was recommend in this thread a couple years ago and it sounds like from the OP that the improvement might be marginal. -Should I upgrade my RAM? It's really old, from two computers ago, but the OP also makes it sound like the performance difference might only be a few fps. -My case and SSD are just fine, I think. -My PSU should be replaced as it's going on 7 years old. So I'm thinking for now I ought to upgrade my GPU, replace my PSU, and I want to buy a new monitor. How badly to I need to upgrade my RAM and CPU? edit: basically I'm thinking of upgrading my GPU, replacing PSU, getting a new monitor now. Then in the next few months upgrading my mobo, CPU, and RAM. Pellisworth fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 20:13
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There are some cases where an SSD will make a noticeable difference in more than load times. The biggest one that comes to mind is subnautica, which is currently an atrocious choppy mess if you try to run it on a hard drive, as it apparently does repeated blocking disk reads anytime you're doing just about anything. The game absolutely cannot keep up with streaming the world on a hard drive, so it hitches and lags incessantly anytime you're moving (my system has never had trouble with streaming in worlds in other considerably more graphics-intensive games like witcher 3, either). People running the game on SSDs do not seem to have this problem. Not a common thing but worth considering.Eletriarnation posted:The actual power use of the 1080 is capped at 180W under stock settings, they quote you figures like that because they have no idea what else is in your system and don't want to hear complaining from people who are already running a Broadwell-E with a custom loop doing 250W or 10 hard drives or whatever. Thanks for the help.
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Nov 6, 2017 21:32
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I've been having issues with video card driver crashes since Monday, and unfortunately I changed a lot of poo poo on Monday. I updated Nvidia drivers, updated my motherboard chipset and usb drivers, updated the BIOS and installed the windows 10 fall creators update. I wiped the machine, did a clean install, disabled my cpu and GPU overclocks, disabled XMP, and it's still crashing. Suspecting maybe I was reaching the upper limit of my 550W power supply I turned XMP back on, re-enabled the CPU and GPU overclocks, and plugged the machine into a Kill-A-Watt to see my usage. It never went above 360 watts so it's not that. I've got an oculus rift with 3 sensors, rgb keyboard and mouse (both wired), an EVGA 1080ti hybrid liquid cooled (overclocked) a 7700k (overclocked), asus Z170-A motherboard, 2 SSDs and a spinning HD, and an AIO liquid cooler for the CPU. I also usually have a HOTAS or a steering wheel hooked up too. I just mention that to outline the power usage figure
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Nov 6, 2017 22:15
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So I hit a bit of a snag in my build (https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/vHD48d/great-intel-gaming-build) I assume I installed everything right because the computer turns on but the computer dosen't reconize my keyboard for whatever reason so I can't get into any of the motherboard settings. I have a usb disk driver with my windows 7 install disk but it won't install I assume because none of my stuff is formatted. I tried plugging my keyboard in every usb and it appears to be getting power, the keys just won't do anything.
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Nov 6, 2017 23:03
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Pellisworth posted:Thanks in advance for advice! Depends on what games you're playing but your CPU is probably fine, and 12GB of DDR3-1600 isn't bad to go with that as long as it's matched pairs and not 3x4 or 4+8. In your position I'd probably get something like a 1060 and save the rest for the monitor upgrade, then when you're ready to replace the rest you can do 6-8 core Coffee Lake/Ryzen refresh with 16GB of fast DDR4. The 1070 or 1080 would allow a higher-res new monitor to really shine but they'd also cost most of the money you would otherwise plan to spend on said monitor. DrManiac posted:So I hit a bit of a snag in my build (https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/vHD48d/great-intel-gaming-build) Windows 7 is too old to come with standard USB3 drivers. Use Windows 10, unless you really want to jump through hoops to slipstream your drivers into the installer and then replace it all anyway in two years when security updates end. e: It looks like that motherboard has two USB2 ports? You could try those but really, you should just install Windows 10 instead. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 6, 2017 23:31
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Eletriarnation posted:
Ah ok, I was using a old rear end W7 install cd I had from ages ago so I didn't realize installing from usb was a no go. I assume once I install a os I can get the bios problem fixed somehow.
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Nov 7, 2017 00:03
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Just thought I would plug the noctua D15. I was previously using the hyper 212 evo which throttled my cpu speeds to barely hit 4.4 Ghz overclocked with my i7 6700k before it overheated. I'm currently running my i7 6700k at 4.6 Ghz with ~50c cpu temps, and the fan is really quiet. If you were to buy a CPU cooler again I can recommend the Noctua D15.
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Nov 7, 2017 01:00
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Are water cooling solutions typically quieter than air cooling?
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Nov 7, 2017 01:02
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Eletriarnation posted:Depends on what games you're playing but your CPU is probably fine, and 12GB of DDR3-1600 isn't bad to go with that as long as it's matched pairs and not 3x4 or 4+8. Thanks! The most demanding games I play are action RPGs, most recent ones I've played were MGSV, Witcher 3, and Fallout 4. Those play okay on my current rig but they struggle on the highest settings, I'd like to be able to replay them with blinged out graphics and also have my gaming rig handle similar games on high (but not necessarily max) settings for the next couple years. It sounds like my choice is between getting a 1060 or similar and playing at 1080p, or shelling out $200-300 more for a 1070/80 and playing at higher resolutions? This might be a dumb question, but how would I get a feel for 1920x1080 vs. 2560x1440? I know more about PC innards than monitors, if you have any recommendations I'd really appreciate it. I've read through the last few pages of the monitor thread but the OP seems really out of date. For what it's worth I've been playing at 1920x1080 on a 23" LG IPS236V (https://www.lg.com/us/products/documents/LG-LED-Monitor-IPS236V-Specification.pdf) for the last 6ish years and I think I'd like to upgrade to a 27" I have two matched pairs of memory, 2x4 and 2x2. I won't worry about upgrading the CPU, RAM, and mobo for right now, wait to see what goes on sale in the next few months. Edit: actually would doing a 24" monitor at 144Hz and supporting 2560x1440 be a good idea? I sit fairly close to my desk and doing some googling I don't think I'll get much advantage out of a 27" monitor for gaming? Pellisworth fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 01:24
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Yeah, we're getting into really subjective territory here but in my mind resolution is at least as important as anything else. I have a 1060 6GB myself and have mainly used it with a 4K TV for couch gaming and a Dell U2718Q on a desk. I would usually rather turn detail and/or effects down a notch or two if it lets me run at 4K, and for older games where the 1060 is more than adequate I can just turn them all the way up and revel in the detail. I also tend to like the panoramic effect of having a large screen; I would have bought the 32" version of my Dell monitor, if it wasn't obscenely expensive. Lots of other people really love high refresh rates instead, especially for shooters or other twitchy games. I've never had a screen with a refresh rate over 60Hz though so I can't comment on that. Having played MGSV, FO4 and Witcher 3... MGSV is very well optimized, to the point that it will run smoothly on Haswell integrated graphics at 720p/low. I run it at 1440p/high on my 1060 and it worked well at 1080p/high on my parents' 1050. FO4 and Witcher 3 are both playable on a 1060 at 4K/medium, but smoother at 1080p/ultra. For Witcher 3 they look about the same quality wise so I went for smoothness, for FO4 4K looks great but was noticeably laggy for me. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 03:28
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Free upgrades for prior Windows versions ends 12/31: http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/microsoft-ends-its-free-windows-10-upgrades-december-31st.html
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Nov 7, 2017 05:50
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Do you actually need to have any kind of assistive technology installed, or is it just clicking "yes, I totally use assistive technology, honest"?
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Nov 7, 2017 06:32
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Chillyrabbit posted:Just thought I would plug the noctua D15. I was previously using the hyper 212 evo which throttled my cpu speeds to barely hit 4.4 Ghz overclocked with my i7 6700k before it overheated. I got a D15S and installed it as part of my new build today, had been using a Hyper 212 Evo for the past 5 years. I haven’t seen enough to compare relative temps yet but I was surprised at how much bigger the single-fan D15S is than my old cooler and how easy it was to install. Noctua did a great job on the mounting system. I really don’t like the stock colorscheme but at least there is the ($30) option to replace the fan with a black 140mm chromax one now.
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Nov 7, 2017 06:35
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Khizan posted:Do you actually need to have any kind of assistive technology installed, or is it just clicking "yes, I totally use assistive technology, honest"? Honor system
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Nov 7, 2017 06:35
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Parker Lewis posted:I got a D15S and installed it as part of my new build today, had been using a Hyper 212 Evo for the past 5 years. If you're going to go the effort to replace the fan, definitely go for a phanteks HP fan over a chromax. They're available in a shitload of colours, cheaper, and significantly better performing than Noctua's heatsink fans.
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Nov 7, 2017 07:08
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INTJ Mastermind posted:Are water cooling solutions typically quieter than air cooling? Depends, but usually not. Pump noise is an issue with water cooling, so high end air cooling should me cheaper and quieter than water cooling (though both trump low end air cooling). WC is more interesting to keep temperatures low when overclocking as far as I know.
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Nov 7, 2017 07:37
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Khizan posted:Do you actually need to have any kind of assistive technology installed, or is it just clicking "yes, I totally use assistive technology, honest"? I ran it yesterday to bring my desktop from 8.1 up to 10. I don't even think the EXE said anything about assistive technology.
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Nov 7, 2017 07:49
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Speaking of CPU temps, I’ve started to see my 8700 getting up to 88C on my Evo 212 with no overclock. It hadn’t been near that high when I first installed, but I’ve since replaced my GTX 1080 with a 1080TI. What should I be looking for on a prime 95 load temp? If I decided to spend $100-$200 on a new case and cooler what should I go with? I don’t care much about noise, but it needs to be consistent. The throttling up and down right now is really annoying. Keep in mind this is a non-K chip, but if I can get my hands on a 8700k before my return window expires it may eventually be. Edit: Just snagged an 8700K from Newegg. I think I'm going to grab a Noctua D15 unless anyone has a different recommendation. LASER BEAM DREAM fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 16:18
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My CPU fan started rattling and stalling a couple days ago. I think one of the bearings is shot. I tried lubing it up and cleaning everything out but that didn't really do anything. Then I realized I never bothered to adjust the BIOS fan settings, so everything has been going 100% for the last 2 1/2 years, so I definitely wore the thing out.  The heatsink is a Cryorig H5 and it's been rock-solid. I guess this would be a good time to get two fans and do push-pull airflow. I just have no idea where to start looking since searching for "CPU fans" just gives me results for new heatsinks. The fan is 140mm and clips to the side of the heatsink with thin metal bars. I was able to remove and replace it with little effort. The shape of the heatsink is the same on both sides so I know I can clip one on both sides. Worst case, I do have an extended warranty on this thing. I just don't know how good Cryorig's customer service is. Well, lesson learned. Could have been much worse than annoying rattling. I'll be sure to look up the safe temps for my CPU and adjust the BIOS as soon as I get new fans in there. e: Okay, it looks like the same fan is sold as a separate product. I *think* the heatsink came with an extra set of wire clips, so I'll have to go digging for those. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 16:57
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INTJ Mastermind posted:Are water cooling solutions typically quieter than air cooling? I splurged on a closed loop system from NZXT and my computer is dead silent. It's quite nice
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Nov 7, 2017 18:09
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Critique my proposed build! What country are you in? US What are you using the system for? Gaming (I don't do online FPS or anything, just nerdy RPGs for the most part) What's your budget? Flexible, my last build was in 2011 (using advice from this thread, actually!), so I'm ready to pay for something solid that will last me the next five years or so If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? TBD--I have an 19" monitor that's ten+ years old, time to upgrade that too. Monitor isn't included in the below build--planning to research that separately, unless you advise I pair it with my current shopping list. I have a new-in-box WD 1 terabyte storage HDD I plan to drop in, along with my current 500 gig HDD (to transfer over files and such) I am NOT planning to overclock (I messed with it a few builds ago, and found it too much trouble for me personally) PCPartPicker list, built from the advice in the OP: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($184.49 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock - H270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($95.39 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($184.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($233.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($429.89 @ B&H) Case: Corsair - 250D Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1416.51 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-07 12:24 EST-0500 Questions: --Is this still the appropriate CPU/motherboard combo for a non-OC build? --Decent graphics card? I always stress way too much about which I should pick. Thanks in advance!
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Nov 7, 2017 18:30
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Graphics card is a good call but generation 8 processors are out now and have more cores than the previous generation for the first time in a decade, so they're a clear step above. Check out Z370 boards and the i5-8400 or i7-8700.
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Nov 7, 2017 19:22
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Would a vega 56 be a better 'future proof' card for gaming purpose at the current MSRP price compare to 1070? I know it perform less on game that doesn't use dx12, but it would only get better from here?
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Nov 7, 2017 20:47
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Nyaa posted:Would a vega 56 be a better 'future proof' card for gaming purpose at the current MSRP price compare to 1070? I know it perform less on game that doesn't use dx12, but it would only get better from here? Nothing is future-proof but the Vega 56 is already outperforming a GTX 1070 most of the time to begin with. If you can stand the relatively loud cooler of the reference Vega card and the extra power it draws versus a GTX 1070, it's a fine buy.
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Nov 7, 2017 21:01
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i7-8700k popping in and out of stock on Newegg today. Looks like it's in stock at the time of this posting! edit: and it's gone. But if you really want one just set up a text alert from nowinstock.net. They aren't that hard to get. willroc7 fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 21:04
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I was lucky enough to grab one of the 8700Ks today(seriously, set up nowinstock text alerts ^^ ) I'm sending back the 8700 I have. Since its going back I have the chance to exchange my motherboard as well. Is there any reason to switch from the Asus TUF Gaming that I currently have? Its been fine with the 8700, but I recall reading something about v-droop a few weeks back. Is there "best of" z370 board? I started to pick up a Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 since they have a solid review on Tom's Hardware, but apparently it can't fit a 1080TI due to stupid audio heat sink placement in front of the PCI-E slots. WTF gigabyte?
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Nov 7, 2017 21:19
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My old pc, Phenom X2 processor I think, randomly powered off today. I opened the case up and it appears the fan on the processors heatsink is dying, it isn’t spinning fast at all and sometimes doesn’t spin at all. Computer is currently off. I’m not in a position to get a whole new pc, is replacing just the fan possible?
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Nov 8, 2017 00:15
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Waiting for Amazon to ship my 8700k pre-order. It was supposed to ship today but hasn’t yet. Anyone else in the same boat? I think I ordered it last week.
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Nov 8, 2017 00:22
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LASER BEAM DREAM posted:I was lucky enough to grab one of the 8700Ks today(seriously, set up nowinstock text alerts ^^ ) I'm sending back the 8700 I have. Since its going back I have the chance to exchange my motherboard as well. Is there any reason to switch from the Asus TUF Gaming that I currently have? Its been fine with the 8700, but I recall reading something about v-droop a few weeks back. Is there "best of" z370 board? I started to pick up a Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 since they have a solid review on Tom's Hardware, but apparently it can't fit a 1080TI due to stupid audio heat sink placement in front of the PCI-E slots. WTF gigabyte? Did you have to talk to customer support to send the 8700 back? Was it newegg?
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Nov 8, 2017 00:28
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