Chiwie posted:

I sent you a PM, my wreck should be a good source of parts. (I might even be willing to buy some off you if I have any money spare from my payout.)



Picked up my new car today. Somewhat similar to what I had before but it needs more work on chassis bracing/slightly hardening the suspension.

quote:

Here are a few photos, more are available if required.

The following are some, but certainly not all of the other items that I have;

New STI plated front diff
New Motec SDC2 DCCD controller
New STI lightweight flywheel
New STI group N engine mounts
Used Altronic SM4 PNP
Used KW variant 3 sudpension (approx 1000km use)

jamal posted:

Boost gauges are fairly far down the list for gauges for me. I like coolant temp and oil pressure before that. If you have changed a bunch of parts and have an aftermarket turbo and boost controller it's a good idea though.

Sinestro posted:

How strong is a '04-'06 STi rear differential? I can't seem to get a straight answer.

Cat Terrist posted:

Decent enough to go behind 300Kw+ cars. I've seen them handle 500Kw drag cars and live beyond anything else in the driveline. Let me also put it this way - anyone saying the 6spd or R180 is weak is a complete loving moron who should not be listened to.

toaster_pastry posted:

I'm a big dummy with poor impulse control, but everyone knows that already.

Anyway, I bought an '04 STi tonight from a friend of mine (original owner). It makes lots of smoke, so I got it for very cheap. Help me figure out what to do? Keep in mind I have no tools or garage where I'm living right now so any steps will have to be done by a shop.

The car has 60k miles. Cobb down pipe, exhaust, and "stage 1" ecu flash (which is something that sounds 2fast2furious).

He was doing a trackday with it at ThunderHill and it went low on power and started blowing lots of smoke. I was there with him, and helped check it out.

Oil was leaking under the car, so I put it up on jackstands to check it out. Oil was coming out from where the downpipe meets the exhaust. I pulled the down pipe and there was oil everywhere inside the turbo and exhaust. Clearly it was being burned by the engine (hence the smoke), but also maybe just coming out of the turbo unburnt? The smoke was all white.... which to me means coolant being burned, but the coolant looks good and no overheating or signs of headgasket problems.

So, I have the car.. it runs and drives and blows smoke. What should I do?

I'm thinking of these two options:

1) drop it off at a dealer and tell them to put a new shortblock in it and send both heads out for a rebuild. New clutch, tune-up parts, waterpump, etc. Probably ask them to put all the stock parts back on (cat, exhaust, re-flash the ECU to stock). I <3 stock cars for reliability.

2) drop it off at GST motorsports in Hayward, CA (5 minutes from where I work). Have them diagnose it and repair it with whatever they think is best. Also have them convert it back to stock. I dont really trust "tuner" shops though... if they do a rebuild, I bet it will blow up and not be reliable like OEM.

I'd like to spend around $4500

Thoughts, opinions, insults? Additionally, I have read that the original ECU tune for the '04 is terrible and I should not put that back to stock. T/F?

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Blown turbo sounds possible to me as well.

Here's a tranny chart which might do it for you: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart but doesn't seem to have your transmission listed (Spec-C?)

Some cursory googling seems to say the front diff is helical which would be consistent with the 90s Type RA.

03 Spec-C is TY856WB3JA with a suretrac front
05 Spec-C is TY856WB6JA with a helical front

I'm guessing 06+ would be helical as well, I think Subaru basically ditched suretrac past USDM MY04/JDM MY03.

jamal posted:

Rallispec is who put that trans chart together btw

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2173258


Go to GST. The dealer will charge more and you DONT want another set of stock pistons (if it's not a blown turbo the pistons are your problem). They are one of the best when it comes to building a Subaru engine. And keep the exhaust. And tell Mike I said hi.

Cat Terrist posted:

So the transmission checks out as a SpecC and it's likely to be helical.

If the rear diff checks out as plated, I'm sold.

kaws! posted:

I'll need to find a new home for an G1S2 RS Liberty shell soon, picked up a converted herritage to put all my gear into that hasn't been sitting in a backyard unregistered for way too long.

jamal posted:

Rallispec is who put that trans chart together btw

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2173258


Go to GST. The dealer will charge more and you DONT want another set of stock pistons (if it's not a blown turbo the pistons are your problem). They are one of the best when it comes to building a Subaru engine. And keep the exhaust. And tell Mike I said hi.

Cat Terrist posted:

NO ONE SAY A GODDAMN WORD. I AM NOT GETTING A LIBERTY!

kaws! posted:

So when will you be picking it up?

nm posted:

Oh and "reliable" like OEM is a joke. Subaru can't make a piston to save their lives.

toaster_pastry posted:

I dont really believe this.

I have an intelligent and responsible friend whom bought an '02 WRX and '06 STi both new. The WRX has 200k miles and the STi has 90k miles. He and his wife autocross and daily drive both cars with great agression and they are both as nice, reliable, and original as the day they left the showroom.

All of these low mileage Subarus with blown engines strike me as kids with agressive tunes, random mods, and extremely abusive driving styles. Furthermore, most of these tuner shops do not strike me as being precise enough to deliver an engine build to the tight tolerances I can expect from a factory sealed engine. Sure, they can build a loose engine that makes lots of power with a big turbo and agressive tune, but its going to let go in 10k miles... the exact opposite of what I'm looking for.

OEM 270hp is plenty for me. I'd rather have it de-tuned and know that I can drive it cross-country reliably, or at least that it will hold together on California's lovely pump gas.

toaster_pastry posted:

Furthermore, most of these tuner shops do not strike me as being precise enough to deliver an engine build to the tight tolerances I can expect from a factory sealed engine. Sure, they can build a loose engine that makes lots of power with a big turbo and agressive tune, but its going to let go in 10k miles... the exact opposite of what I'm looking for.

OEM 270hp is plenty for me. I'd rather have it de-tuned and know that I can drive it cross-country reliably, or at least that it will hold together on California's lovely pump gas.

Cat Terrist posted:

NO ONE SAY A GODDAMN WORD. I AM NOT GETTING A LIBERTY!

Viggen posted:

You've got PLENTY of space for one.. or.. sixteen.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Just remember: you're living the AI dream. Just ask toaster_pastry.

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Just remember: you're living the AI dream. Just ask toaster_pastry.

toaster_pastry posted:

THE BLACK NINJA posted:

I have a very short log here of my 2011 STi on a Cobb 91 octane accessport map. Everything looks good except for this wacky boost data at the beginning.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ahvm-HT5B_RkdHdBMDBJa05SdTNTdHdMbEtBYmxJR1E

I didn't happen to notice whether or not my boost gauge indicated that as well. 38 psi boost following 13 psi in the preceding data point. I was going up the continental divide and it was cold as poo poo and snowy if any of that is relevant. Any ideas?

Amandyke posted:

Unless you have already signed the financing paperwork then there is nothing forcing you to pay for the car other than the refundable deposit you put down. By all means play hard ball on the price. You could have a wrx for that price...

THE BLACK NINJA posted:

I understand that exceeding boost targets is more likely in cold weather, but I was letting off the throttle at the time of the spike. Wouldn't an over boost look like spooling and just go on too long?