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clam ache posted:That looks like the inline 6? if so then theres a few small vacuum hoses under the intake that love to get brittle and turn to dust. With how you described that cable shattering its not to far fetched those vacuum lines are falling apart or gone. And the way you say you need to keep the gas steady to keep it running screams intake leak. It's a 302 (5.0 v8). I'm not sure which are the vacuum lines but there were 2 hoses connected to the side of the TB that were in pretty good condition. Going back to what powershift was saying actually-- when I was changing the air filter underneath was a smaller little filter that was insanely dirty and outside of that filter previously the hose had blown off the mount and there was a lot of oil debris... is that the PCV filter? I should probably change and inspect those components then e: found it in my manual:  the air cleaner side of the crank case vent hose was dislodged and there was a lot of crap all over the side Razzled fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 05:28
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Yeah, definitely check/clean EGR valve, possibly replace PCV valve(should be like $2). With that much schmoo already in the intake, i'd really be wondering what the valves and such look like and how much pressure is building in the crank case.
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Nov 18, 2016 05:45
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 Drilled out the seized screws holding the friction plate onto my flywheel out, rotated the plate about 15 degrees and drilled & tapped new holes to mount a new plate.  Also Clutchmasters can go gently caress themselves. Poor design - who would think that steel screws inserted into aluminum might bind and require far more torque to extract than you can put through an 1/8th inch hex driver? - they couldn't tell me which plate my flywheel needed without me taking it out of the car to measure it, and then the new hardware included was too long and I had to grind about 4mm off of 12 screws so they wouldn't hang out the back.
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Nov 18, 2016 06:11
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A flywheel with replaceable friction plate... You know, I never knew that existed, but it took approximately 1/4 of a second after seeing your picture to go "of course that would be a thing, duh." Just never occurred to me before, based on my own limited experiences. I'm so used to having to lathe and polish them.
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Nov 18, 2016 06:34
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I got tired of the lovely faded, chipped, pitted, scuffed and ugly wheels on the wagon, so I chucked some paint on them. It did not go well. One of the wheels was siezed to the rotor face and took some convincing with a rubber mallet and a prybar to remove. Crappy conditions meant spraying the paint didn't go right and I got runs in all but the last wheel, but gently caress it. Looks good enough to keep around for 4 months until I replace the wheels and tires on this thing and gave me an excuse to take all 4 wheels off and inspect everything in it. Brakes are fine, just has lovely pads. Tires are 4 1/2 years old and are starting to show signs of cracking due to dry rot. I was hoping to use them for a while longer since they have plenty of tread left, but hey, new tires are good to. Hope they last till april!   Bonus pan fried catte and '71 412 from the shop that did my oil change.  
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Nov 18, 2016 06:47
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:A flywheel with replaceable friction plate... It's generally just for the super duper aluminum tuner ones, because using aluminum as a friction surface would be pretty bad, even by the standards of aftermarket companies.
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Nov 18, 2016 14:47
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I'm under no illusion that it adds (or frees up) any usable amount of power, but it did solve the hanging rev issue common on the Zetec engine - with the stock flywheel it literally took over a minute for the engine to fully return to idle speed. Plus I like being able to blip the throttle to rev match. Content: got the transmission back on my Focus tonight after about two hours of fighting it into position. I still can't believe people used to shoehorn V8s into these.
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Nov 19, 2016 07:33
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Yesterday was the last warm day on the horizon, so I decided I better get some poo poo done. 70+ degrees in Michigan, in November? Thanks, global warming. My truck needed the most attention since it's too big for my garage and I can't close the door while working on it, so I swapped out one of the wheel bearings in the front. I just put in new control arms recently and did a bunch of other front end work so it wasn't too bad getting everything out, though the ball joints were not torqued very tight...Once I got the spindle off it was interesting trying to get out the bearing. I don't have a press and my vice is too small for something that size, so BFH it is. I beat on that thing with a 3 pound sledge and sacrificed an impact socket in the process, but it finally popped out. Made sure to torque the ball joints and other suspension crap as tight as I could once it was back on the floor. I planned to do both bearings yesterday but hahahaha wtf was I thinking. No way I was going to get it done with how beat I was from the first one so I put on the new intermediate shaft and bearing that might help the steering slop common with those trucks. Seemed to make a difference but there's still a bit of a deadzone. It's just slightly smaller. 
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Nov 19, 2016 12:52
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Geoj posted:I'm under no illusion that it adds (or frees up) any usable amount of power, but it did solve the hanging rev issue common on the Zetec engine - with the stock flywheel it literally took over a minute for the engine to fully return to idle speed. Plus I like being able to blip the throttle to rev match.
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Nov 19, 2016 19:02
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Swapped on the winter tires. I have a history of bad decisions when it comes to tires, but today I at least got the timing right - it was raining when I started, but snowing by the time I finished. Also, today is my annual insurance renewal day (I paid earlier this week) and this year I get a discount for using winter tires from November to March so today was a good day for this, despite the weather.
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Nov 19, 2016 23:21
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Razzled posted:It's a 302 (5.0 v8). I'm not sure which are the vacuum lines but there were 2 hoses connected to the side of the TB that were in pretty good condition. Going back to what powershift was saying actually-- when I was changing the air filter underneath was a smaller little filter that was insanely dirty and outside of that filter previously the hose had blown off the mount and there was a lot of oil debris... is that the PCV filter? I should probably change and inspect those components then This is a normal thing on the truck 302 as I recall (Mine looked the same last time I checked). It's something to do with the placement of the PCV valve. I seem to remember there is a fix where guys move the valve to one of the vacuum tree ports on the manifold towards the rear, but can't remember the details (but the broncolinks site that had it is long since gone). I ended up dumping mine into a catchcan/filter, because it just kept killing the throttle position sensor.
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Nov 20, 2016 03:53
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Wrar posted:Well, sure, but then the transmission is facing a different direction. Pointing the transmission to the back of the car would be an even bigger headache though, even with a modified crossmember.
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Nov 20, 2016 06:26
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I've gone pretty anti-AI recently, selling my twin-carb 205gti for a boring honda automatically puts you in that spot I am doing slight interior upgrades on my 300zx though First step, new wheel 
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Nov 20, 2016 10:17
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Now I'm starting to do the seats Here is my messy garage  
Raikyn fucked around with this message at 10:57 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 10:33
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Got it through emissions!  So loving weird not having the CEL on... it's been on for well over a year and a half. Got it through last year by clearing the ECU and beating on it until it was down to 1 not ready (catalyst), and the CEL popped on leaving the smog place last year. It shouldn't throw another cat code again now. TX allows one not ready. It's showing evap not ready, but GM's are a pain in the rear end to get evap to set for some reason. No idea how I managed to get it to set last year, I've seen it take over a month to go to ready on this car. It had a MAP sensor performance code when I checked it before clearing the ECU this last time, which was... weird. Hasn't come back. Guess I'll have to figure out where the sensor is if it comes back.
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Nov 20, 2016 23:25
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Finished my clutch job - it engages right off the floor now instead of at the very top of travel, I'm still stalling out here and there. Also found out how worn out my throwout bearing was. Clutch pedal only takes maybe 60% of the force it did before.
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Nov 21, 2016 03:47
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Finally fixed my fog lights. My car has factory fogs. I had hacked lovely HIDz (I know I know) into them awhile back. Ripped those lovely things out, but never got around to replacing the pigtails again. New pigtails installed with heat shrink crimps, halogens (yellow bulbs since "fogs") are working for the first time in ages. Aimed low, as fogs should be. Also the HIDDDDzzzzz... lit up the trees really well, but did nothing to light up anything else; if anything they killed my night vision. At least I never used them in traffic, I used the lovely HIDz more as a high beam replacement. Next up is headlight replacement. One of my low beams refuses to come on unless I smack the fender, I suspect the bulb is on its way out. Started a couple of days ago. Made drat sure to turn on the lights and hit the fender before I got it inspected today. Once I hit it, it's fine until the headlights are off overnight, so I'm guessing the filament is broken and hitting it is making it touch again.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 04:27
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Raikyn posted:Now I'm starting to do the seats I never used to like these but now I like them a lot, the rear lights are so good. How long have you had it?
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Nov 21, 2016 13:33
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On Saturday I installed the powerflex busing in the Volvo, got rid of all the drivetrain lash, soo worth it! It was also the first time I got to work on cars instead of my lovely house in quite a while. Then I had it washed & waxed, just in time for all this wind to kick up a ton of sand & dirt from the construction right next to my house, so its filthy again  
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Nov 21, 2016 15:55
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Swapped on the winter tires on the fleet. GF's car had gotten new summers this year, and the tire shop put the wheels back on. Clearly with their impact. Without any torque stick. My 400ft-lb impact couldn't handle a number of the wheel studs, wound up with a 3' breaker bar and 2' piece of pipe to get them to come off. gently caress lazy tire shops.
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Nov 21, 2016 18:53
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Geoj posted:I'm under no illusion that it adds (or frees up) any usable amount of power, but it did solve the hanging rev issue common on the Zetec engine - with the stock flywheel it literally took over a minute for the engine to fully return to idle speed. Plus I like being able to blip the throttle to rev match. That's basically what it's for. They don't add or free up any HP, they just reduce inertia on the driveline. Tends to make shift not as forgiving for the same reason, but if you know how to drive a manual properly, it's not really a problem. Did the clutch in the wife's Kia Spec5. I'm a little miffed that we only got 50K out of this one, and 70K out of the OEM. I've seen other Kia owners bitching about clutch life in a cursory web search, so I guess it not just us. Both my wife and I have been driving manuals since our first car many (many) years ago. I thought a novice driver we let use the car killed the first one, but apparently not. It took me all bloody weekend, but it was at least a nice weekend for it, temps were high 40's to high 50's here in N.TX. Before:  Some of the crap cleared away.  That mount, and one on the front and rear of the transaxle have to come out, so gotta support the engine, and the transaxle:  More crap removed:  And by dark:30 on Saturday I had them separated:   Splines and clutch fork look OK.  Hard to see, but worn out. Not to the rivets, but clearly the wear indicating grooves are mostly gone.   Because it's a pull-type clutch, these start slipping when the throwout bearing starts hitting the clutch hub.It still had a little meat left, really. Not much, but I don't think you could actually get to the rivets due to the design. Replacement. Previous one was Valeo made in Korea.  A little different design.  Of course, the clutch pressure plate is the same Valeo Korean stuff... Different part number, though.  Buttoning it back up.  It didn't fight me quite as much as the first time. I had a better plan for getting it all lined up this time around, a better transmission jack, and some long bolts as guide pins. It was dark (which is only 5:00-6:00 PM now) by the time I finished, and about 7:30 by the time I got all the tools and stuff cleaned up. After which, there was beer and food, Doom, and early to bed, because very tired.
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Nov 21, 2016 20:56
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I have always known the brief answer is "uh, stuff", but anyone want to explain for real what the 4 springs mounted in the plate of the clutch do/are for?
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Nov 21, 2016 21:05
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Ether Frenzy posted:I have always known the brief answer is "uh, stuff", but anyone want to explain for real what the 4 springs mounted in the plate of the clutch do/are for? https://youtu.be/dNUfMV2f_eo?t=1m6s
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Nov 21, 2016 21:11
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Nice. That makes sense. Thanks, I've never had occasion to switch out a clutch and learn more in the process.
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Nov 21, 2016 21:19
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I never used to like these but now I like them a lot, the rear lights are so good. How long have you had it? It's a 1989 car, I've had it for about 10-12 years. It's my 2nd 300zx, I had a nice shiny red one before this but it had an unfortunate demise in a workplace accident.  PIC_0004 by Marc, on Flickr
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Nov 22, 2016 04:58
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Installed KYB GR-2 shocks and struts on all 4 corners of the 99 4Runner. It rides like new now.
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Nov 22, 2016 06:29
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Mom was complaining about a weird grinding noise when braking during right turns on her Avalon. We went to dinner tonight. I drove back. Told her to hold on tight. Went through an empty parking lot and nailed the brakes hard in a hard right turn. She was not happy, but the ABS went apeshit, and she said it was the same noise. I tried a few more times, she said it was the same noise every time, and it seemed like the ABS was going off WAY too easy. .... I guess she's never engaged the ABS before.  Also guessing maybe a bad wheel speed sensor, she said she wasn't braking hard when it happened before. On the last turn where I set it off, I wasn't on the brakes hard at all, but did take the turn a little fast (tight turn at about 15-20 mph in an empty parking lot). It would have definitely been fast enough for a bit of a difference in wheel speed on the front wheels (and maybe even the back inside wheel), but I wouldn't think it would have been a big enough difference to set off the ABS. Guess maybe I'll be replacing wheel speed sensors soon.Also noticed a nice big cloud of blue smoke that lasted a good 4-5 seconds when she started it after it'd sat overnight. 2003 with 154k and religious 5k synthetic oil changes since new. drat you, 1MZ-FE valve guides!  Runs and drives great, has some interior wear issues, but it's been a great car for her. And the only car she's ever owned with over 40k. I suspect part of the oil usage is because she drives like grandma and never takes it over 3k (sometimes 3500). When I drive it I make sure to stomp it a few times and wind it out. Might try some seafoam, but I'm pretty sure it needs valve guides if I want to get rid of the startup smoke.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Nov 22, 2016 |
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Nov 22, 2016 10:31
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Raikyn posted:It's a 1989 car, I've had it for about 10-12 years. Aw man. I saw one last week on the way to work, I let him out of a side road and just followed him, two 80s Japanese sports cars just rolling to work... 
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Nov 22, 2016 11:11
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Bad picture but I doubt anyone will care. My washer pump stopped functioning. Wipers would still kick on but pushing in the stalk no longer pumped any fluid. Bought a new pump but that didn't fix it, looked at the relays and fuses and couldnt figure out why it wasn't working. So I just wired the power directly through a switch to the cigarette lighter. Since my rear wiper never worked I just popped out that dial + module and installed the new push button switch in its place so it doesn't stick out any. (upper right)
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Nov 22, 2016 16:40
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Raikyn posted:It's a 1989 car, I've had it for about 10-12 years. Nooooo that poor Daihatsu!
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Nov 23, 2016 18:20
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Don't work on your car when you're tired -  Didn't check everything as thoroughly as I should have on Sunday and the harness that runs the coil & MAF sensor was touching the EGR tube, leaving me stranded on the side of the highway until my father in law was able to trailer me home. Cut out the offending parts of wire that had its insulation burned off, spliced in some new wire and it's running like a top again. Also made sure to zip tie everything out of the way so this doesn't happen again.
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Nov 24, 2016 01:19
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Doesn't strictly count, but I removed the shredded rubber from a wheel rim so I could use it for the trailer. Discovered it was actually the wrong PCD so it got used to plant succulents in. Plopped it down next to the brake drum of cacti.
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Nov 24, 2016 03:18
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I put some '150% brighter' bulbs in my headlights last night, in the dark using a nice new LED lamp thing I bought. The car's got pop up lights and all the notes I've seen on how to do it talk about removing the actual light itself. The screws that hold mine in are fairly knackered so I soaked them in penetrating oil and then just unscrewed the cover from the top of them. Luckily the casing has a gap and I was able to unhook the wiring and pull the bulb out from there. Jobs that take less time than you've planned are rare. And now I can actually see where I'm driving at night!
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Nov 24, 2016 16:27
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This morning, instead of doing anything useful, like long-overdue servicing of my own car (because I am an idiot and would probably kill the car or myself if left unsupervised), I "helped" my father tidy up the garage and put together a hoist/crane for his project, restoring his 35-ish-year-old (MG/Spartan?) kit car, which hasn't turned over in 20 years. The only progress in the past year has been taking the engine and gearbox out, but retirement has freed up his schedule a little... (The A-frame in the background was used for that task, but it wasn't manoeuvrable.)     In the afternoon I found him back in the garage testing a replacement for one of the wheel studs (sorry if I'm getting terminology wrong) with a new, stronger/thicker bolt. What he described as a five-minute-procedure took the better part of an hour, and I don't know how long he'd been out there before I noticed. Eventually we got the drum brake reassembled, at which point he discovered that the bolt was too big for the hub and he'd have to drill the hole larger... and that was enough yak-shaving for one day.
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Nov 26, 2016 04:18
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Crustashio posted:Out comes the piece of poo poo B18 What did this go in? More details!
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Nov 26, 2016 05:16
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I returned the GTI to bone stock in preparation of selling it.
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Nov 26, 2016 05:39
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Earlier in the week we drove to Key Largo (from Sarasota) to camp for a few days with my wife's family and their renovated Avion, then on to Key West for a day, got back last night with many thousands of deaths attributed to the front of the van. 833 miles total with a large portion of that cruising at 68 mph or so which is not bad at all considering. Avoided the interstate, went across 72 with 70, 27 to a short little bit on 997 to highway 1. Didn't burn any oil that showed on my dipstick and had no issues at all. Didn't even have issues with wind although large trucks when we'd pass or they'd pass us would sap all my speed until we weren't next to each other anymore. The whole drive we got a lot of attention of course but especially on the keys where lots of people are driving around golf carts. So many that I wonder what setting up a small dealership there that only sells kei vehicles. Why buy and drive around a golf cart when you can have a little Beat or Cappuccino with doors, roofs and even A/C that you can drive up to Miami if you want? Heck you play it right you can even get old kei vehicles to become a part of the Key West Charm (aka tourist trap aspect) and have vans and trucks driving around as well doing deliveries and commercial work.      Stayed at the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and had a fine time sleeping in the tiny van. A portable room A/C that we set on the passenger seat, set up the drainage with some clear tubing shut in the door and vented out the hot air through a ~custom~ cardboard dyer-vent-tube-holder kept us comfortable. Rolled out a foam pad with the seats down and (while small) room enough for us two and our dog to sleep. Kept food on the driver's seat and the rest of our stuff in bins outside in front. An out-door run plus a canopy over the van completed our camping shelter.
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Nov 28, 2016 01:43
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^^^^ Love the kei van. Today I replaced the flip-up gooseneck hitch in my gmc 3500. The old hitch was stuck in the raised position. Best we can figure, a PO got rear-ended with a trailer hooked up. It must have broken part of the latch assembly, so their solution was to weld the door to the ball plate, and I suppose continue using it. One look at it from underneath and...yeah I wasn't pulling with that. The new exact fit replacement was all of $105 from agri-supply. A bit of deflection:  So the entire structure of the hitch was compromised. This underside is supposed to be one piece (and they were hauling with it):  All deflection that I could observe was in the hitch assembly. The angle iron rails it was bolted to, and the bolts themselves looked fine. Edit: and I put my new sign on the shop door.  
angryrobots fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 03:11
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Razzled posted:Pulled the throttle body off of my '89 F150 today. It was a pain and I broke my cruise control cable in the process (well, the plastic shroud thing around it anyway, it disintegrated when I touched it). Put everything back together to no effect. So I ran the codes got only 1: MAP Sensor signal out of normal range. Unplugged the MAP sensor and hey what do you know, the truck idles again in limp mode. Now to decide on dicking around at a pull a part or to just go with motorcraft
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Nov 28, 2016 03:28
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So originally I pulled it off to check the condition of the TB + the IAC Valve because the truck would not idle when starting up but I could keep it alive with gas...
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I put some '150% brighter' bulbs in my headlights last night, in the dark using a nice new LED lamp thing I bought. The car's got pop up lights and all the notes I've seen on how to do it talk about removing the actual light itself. The screws that hold mine in are fairly knackered so I soaked them in penetrating oil and then just unscrewed the cover from the top of them. Luckily the casing has a gap and I was able to unhook the wiring and pull the bulb out from there. Expect the bulbs to last only a couple of years, at best. All of the high output bulbs I've put in last 1-2 years; I'm right at 2 years on the Phillips Xtreme Visions I have, and one of them now has to be smacked to get it to light up if it's been sitting overnight. Guessing the filament is broken and hitting it causes it to weld back together for a bit. I pulled the original bulbs from 2005 out to put these in.  They still worked, but were dim as gently caress and the glass was fairly blackened.The extra light is worth it though. Razzled posted:Put everything back together to no effect. So I ran the codes got only 1: MAP Sensor signal out of normal range. Unplugged the MAP sensor and hey what do you know, the truck idles again in limp mode. Now to decide on dicking around at a pull a part or to just go with motorcraft Go with a new one, even if you don't go OEM (though I would go OEM). You have no idea of the condition of the sensor at the junkyard, especially with the funky signalling Ford used back then. Though if you look it up on Rockauto and find out what year models it fits, if it fits much newer ones you stand a much better chance of getting a good sensor out of the latest model one it fits. edit: 87-96 E series/F series with a 4.9, 5.0, and 5.8 are your most likely donor. The 460 claims to use a different one, but seems to have the same cross reference list on Rockauto.  edit2: gently caress the motorcraft one is spendy.. I'd probably go aftermarket too, and I normally only go OEM. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 03:40
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