|
Grimarest posted:
You have no idea, this hobby will completely bend your idea of "expensive". I believe it's probably cheaper to get a serious coke and hooker habit than some genres of photography.
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2014 23:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 15:34 |
|
|
Grimarest posted:I got mad water stains, how do you get rid of 'em, photoflow? I tried editing them out as best as I could. Yes, and consider using deionized water for the very last rinse.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2014 23:21
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:You have no idea, this hobby will completely bend your idea of "expensive". I believe it's probably cheaper to get a serious coke and hooker habit than some genres of photography. I actually flinched when I realised how much I spent on all my MF kit last year.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
Can someone describe their process for processing black and white negatives scanned via DSLR? I've been mostly playing with brightness/contrast sliders and tweaking the ends of the tone curve, not sure what else is good to try.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 00:06
|
|
|
Grimarest posted:I just developped my first film. hp5+ with ilfotec hc pushed to 800. These portraits are great. I use photoflo, and I have hard water but don't get any water spots. Photoflo is probably the cheapest out of all the dev chemicals, so you might as well get some.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 00:09
|
|
|
Thanks for the tips, I'll get a photoflow bottle and try with distilled water since I have some laying around.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 00:47
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:Can someone describe their process for processing black and white negatives scanned via DSLR? I've been mostly playing with brightness/contrast sliders and tweaking the ends of the tone curve, not sure what else is good to try. I'd love a link to that youtube video about processing negatives also (You know which one I'm talking about). Thought I had bookmarked it...
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 01:51
|
|
|
Primo Itch posted:I'd love a link to that youtube video about processing negatives also (You know which one I'm talking about). Thought I had bookmarked it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_qeZOWqchM
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 02:45
|
|
|
Shot HP5 for the first time. So flat. So pretty. Never buying Tri-X again. Jan & Michelle's by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr  Jan & Michelle's by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 04:04
|
|
|
voodoorootbeer posted:Shot HP5 for the first time. So flat. So pretty. Never buying Tri-X again. Try it in Rodinal 1+75 at EI 200 it's sweet (at least it is on 4x5).
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
I also shot some HP5 yesterday and was really happy with how it looks, these are 120 film developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 12 minutes.  
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 04:32
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:Try it in Rodinal 1+75 at EI 200 it's sweet (at least it is on 4x5). I definitely will. My previous attempts at non-stand dev with Rodinal came out with some kind of gnarly grain but I was also shooting Foma so that could explain it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 05:57
|
|
|
voodoorootbeer posted:I definitely will. My previous attempts at non-stand dev with Rodinal came out with some kind of gnarly grain but I was also shooting Foma so that could explain it. I don't agitate very much so YMMV. I generally do 5 inversions spaced out over the entire time to a total of 3 or 4 agitation cycles.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 06:20
|
|
|
 _DSC7729 by Stingray of Doom, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2014 08:39
|
|
|
   
ape fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 04:30
|
|
|
So i've been shooting a buttload of foma 200 and hp5+ and tmax 400 with this red 29 filter. I've been metering it as +3 exposure as per the recommendations and I just tested it yesterday (yes I know I should have tested it sooner) and apparently it's a 5 stop filter. So... Should I develop the films any differently? A few of you saw that midlands 8x10 shot with the insane contrast and gave some positive feedback but I'm wondering if if would be worth developing them differently with the extra 2 stops of exposure accounted for? I kinda liked the look of the last batch but I'm not sure what to do with it? WWJD?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 09:31
|
|
|
Sounds like you need to push two stops... could just stand develop everything in rodinal for 1 hour and 20 minutes?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 09:34
|
|
|
Cheers, i'm honestly not super keen to try stand developing them especially the 8x10s seeing as i'm positive they're going to get royally raped im the CL81, that and i've never had a lot of success standing sheet film (because i'm me). Any other dilutions i can try?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 09:50
|
|
|
Ah well I can't speak from experience for 8x10. Ive also had good results with Rodinal 1:50 for 9-12 minutes, depending on what the film manufacturer recommends then adding one minute for each stop you want to push, that is with 120 and 135 though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 10:06
|
|
|
I haven't developed my own film in a long time. I may soon have access to an  unused bathroom that can be very easily sealed against light.
8th-snype posted:Try it in Rodinal 1+75 at EI 200 it's sweet (at least it is on 4x5). Or at EI 1600 or EI 3200 in Rodinal 1+100 stand developed one hour. It's sweet on 35mm 
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 10:50
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:
- Steam up the bathroom before hand to get the dust out of the air while drying. - You can do c41 at room temp if you want, especially with the digibase kit, but even just a tub of hot water to get the chemicals up to temperature is more than enough. You only need to be accurate with the first step (Dev) and the following steps require less and less accuracy with temperature. - Throw your film in there when you see what you've developed and flush. Spedman fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 11:41
|
|
|
Spedman posted:- Steam up the bathroom before hand to get the dust out of the air while drying. gently caress. That is awesome. Thankyou. I'm pretty sure that's where most of my dust has been coming from. I've tried everything to eliminate dust. Didn't know about this, though. Cheers. E: also quote:- Throw your film in there when you see what you've developed and flush. lol Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 12:35
|
|
|
I've only ever developed Rodinal as a 1:100 stand development for an hour (occasionally a semi-stand with agitation at the 30min mark). Does 1:50 increase the concentration enough that 9-12 minutes is sufficient? I haven't noticed huge amounts of grain at 1:100, and I'm thinking the longer development would get more out of the shadow areas, right?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 14:05
|
|
|
Baron Dirigible posted:I've only ever developed Rodinal as a 1:100 stand development for an hour (occasionally a semi-stand with agitation at the 30min mark). Does 1:50 increase the concentration enough that 9-12 minutes is sufficient? I haven't noticed huge amounts of grain at 1:100, and I'm thinking the longer development would get more out of the shadow areas, right? The time would depend on your film, for example TMX in Rodinal 1+50 is 12 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 16:00
|
|
|
Stand development and regular development are two completely different processes with different uses. You really can't use one to judge the time for the other.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 16:39
|
|
|
That sprocket rocket is pretty neat.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 16:41
|
|
|
stand development's lack of agitation turns Rodinal into a compensating developer and basically becomes a universal process (one time for all film speeds). agitation changes things. one more film question: is there any solid info on whether it's alright to put used developer down the drain? I know fixer's bad, but how about Rodinal or Xtol?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 23:09
|
|
|
Developer is fine to go down the drain, unless it's something exotic like Pyro.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 23:14
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:stand development's lack of agitation turns Rodinal into a compensating developer and basically becomes a universal process (one time for all film speeds). agitation changes things. The only thing that makes Rodinal need to be shipped ORM-D is that the concentrate is very basic. Diluted is no problem. Xtol's even more benign, since it doesn't even have hydroquinone.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 23:17
|
|
|
Baron Dirigible posted:I've only ever developed Rodinal as a 1:100 stand development for an hour (occasionally a semi-stand with agitation at the 30min mark). Does 1:50 increase the concentration enough that 9-12 minutes is sufficient? I haven't noticed huge amounts of grain at 1:100, and I'm thinking the longer development would get more out of the shadow areas, right? Yeah like others said it's not just the concentration but amount of agitation e.g. I have had good results with Tmax for 12 minutes with 5 inversions at the start then one per minute after that. When doing semi stand it is 2 inversions at the start and two very gentle ones at 30 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 00:08
|
|
|
Spedman posted:Developer is fine to go down the drain, unless it's something exotic like Pyro. However I would recommend that you not put it down a septic field just to be certain. City sewer - usually no problem. It's not liquid mercury, one liter mixed into a thousand gallons of sewage isn't going to hurt anything. It still might be a bit poisonous on a local scale. If you're out in the sticks, go pour it on a gravel road - somewhere it isn't gonna end up in your well, somewhere it isn't gonna poison some grass or flowers. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 01:17
|
|
|
deaders posted:Yeah like others said it's not just the concentration but amount of agitation e.g. I have had good results with Tmax for 12 minutes with 5 inversions at the start then one per minute after that. When doing semi stand it is 2 inversions at the start and two very gentle ones at 30 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 03:23
|
|
|
Baron Dirigible posted:Yeah, I was just a bit confused by 8th-snype recommending 1+75 at EI200 with only 5 inversions across the whole time, which I took as an exposure metered at 200 and a semi-stand development, but I'm assuming he actually meant a regular development at EI200? No, I always use semistand development unless I need to add contrast to a scene and even then I'm more likely to heat the developer than to increase the frequency of agitation. Semistand allows the developer in the highlights to exhaust and gives the shadows some more time to open up. So I do 30 seconds of agitation at the beginning and then usually if the dev cycle is less than 20 mins I do 5 inversions 3 or 4 times at regular intervals. I up that to 5 times if it's going to be 30 mins or longer in the soup. I always like to point out stuff like that when giving recommendations because my method of developing has been tuned to the kind of photos I shoot over the ten years or so I have been doing it. Use the Massive Dev Chart for base times and then adjust based on your notes for future development. I shoot 4x5 HP5+ metered for 200 and use that agitation cycle in 1+75 for 18 minutes which is 1 minute longer than the chart lists. 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 05:14
|
|
|
I was with a professional landscapist who only hand develop/prints for the last few decades the other day who has worked a lot in chemistry and infrastructure industries. He broke down dev/stop/fixers going down the drain in a typical urban environment and explained to me the chemical breakdown and ecological ramifications and said it's basically a drop in the ocean and many of the chemicals we use end up disappearing anyway?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 05:17
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:I was with a professional landscapist who only hand develop/prints for the last few decades the other day who has worked a lot in chemistry and infrastructure industries. He broke down dev/stop/fixers going down the drain in a typical urban environment and explained to me the chemical breakdown and ecological ramifications and said it's basically a drop in the ocean and many of the chemicals we use end up disappearing anyway? Used fix has silver in it. Yes it's a drop in the ocean but if everyone puts one drop in eventually we get a whole new ocean. Don't dump stuff that's bad down a drain please. I can't stop some loving huge chemical company from making GBS threads on the planet but I don't have to contribute either.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 05:20
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:I was with a professional landscapist who only hand develop/prints for the last few decades the other day who has worked a lot in chemistry and infrastructure industries. He broke down dev/stop/fixers going down the drain in a typical urban environment and explained to me the chemical breakdown and ecological ramifications and said it's basically a drop in the ocean and many of the chemicals we use end up disappearing anyway? yeah well i work with professional chemists, geologists, and biologists, and they all loving hate you and your professional landscapist friend it's not even that hard to precipitate most of the silver out of spent fixer, jfc
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 05:35
|
|
|
Mr. Despair posted:yeah well i work with professional chemists, geologists, and biologists, and they all loving hate you and your professional landscapist friend I'll see if I can get him to relay exactly what he told me in text and get back to you on it. I've always been really conscious of disposal. But he went into excruciating detail of it all. Anyway, i'll get back to you...
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 14:02
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:I'll see if I can get him to relay exactly what he told me in text and get back to you on it. I've always been really conscious of disposal. But he went into excruciating detail of it all. Anyway, i'll get back to you... If it was just you and him dumping it, it wouldn't matter.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 14:06
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:No, I always use semistand development unless I need to add contrast to a scene and even then I'm more likely to heat the developer than to increase the frequency of agitation. Semistand allows the developer in the highlights to exhaust and gives the shadows some more time to open up. So I do 30 seconds of agitation at the beginning and then usually if the dev cycle is less than 20 mins I do 5 inversions 3 or 4 times at regular intervals. I up that to 5 times if it's going to be 30 mins or longer in the soup. I tried semistand once and ruined my vacation photos with almost unusably high contrast so I probably did it wrong 
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 23:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 15:34 |
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:I tried semistand once and ruined my vacation photos with almost unusably high contrast so I probably did it wrong Yes, you did.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 02:35
|
|