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You can also get things like this for the hydraulic jack. I have a similar item I got years and years ago, works well. https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Adapter-Rocker-DP-Company/dp/B01N1ID2KZ
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Aug 1, 2017 17:20
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I've got a pre-pinch weld frame, and hate trying to get jackstands lined up so it probably won't tip.
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Aug 1, 2017 18:13
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I have a 2007 Scion TC which burns 1qt or more every 1000 miles. This is a known issue with Toyota, they never issued a recall but some fix which I didn't realize until after the 10 year guarantee already passed. So here I am filling up 1qt of oil every 1000 miles. If I left the car for the 3000 miles, it's essentially empty on oil. Given that the car is over 10 years and has 140k miles on it and is worth probably less then 2k. I don't want to get it fixed because it will cost more then the car is worth. How much of a bad idea would it be to switch from synthetic oil to regular to save on costs of refilling oil at 1000 mile increments? I mean, the synthetic oil would burn 4qt basically by 3000 miles, for sure by 5000 miles.
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Aug 1, 2017 18:42
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spog posted:
The main problem is that I have FWD and non-directional tires, so I need to cross wheels when I rotate them. The only way I can see to do this is to put the rear end on jack stands, then use the floor jack to do the front wheels one at a time. This will end up with 3 wheels in the air at any given time, so I need the jack stands to be supporting the weight of the car. I guess I could use the spare donut as a placeholder and do it all with just the floor jack and one wheel at a time, but that seems like it'd take forever. Actually now that I think about it, that wouldn't be so bad...considering my alternative, that might be the most straight forward way to rotate my tires. I'm less concerned about changing the oil, but my car is pretty low to the ground, and there is a panel that I need to remove to get access to the drain plug and filter...so I have no choice but to actually be under the car. I see what you're getting at, but I would feel safer with weight actually on the jack stands. This way I know they're doing their job and supporting the car. I feel like if they're not taking the weight, then if the floor jack lets loose then there's no real guarantee that the jack stands wouldn't move/shift/tip under the force of a falling car. Not to mention that even if the car falls and the jack stands do their job, I would still die from a heart attack. Also, I've only tried jacking up the rear so far, but I've read that most floor jacks can't reach the front crossmember center jack point on my car. At least not without severely limited handle motion. I might be able to reach it from behind the front wheels, but I'd have to check. So to get the front end up, I might be stuck jacking each side up individually, which could prove to be a massive pain. Also wheel ramps are not an option for oil changes...front end is too low, I'm pretty sure it'll hit the ramps before the wheels contact.
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Aug 1, 2017 18:47
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https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-2-pc-63373.html
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Aug 1, 2017 18:59
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lol internet. posted:I have a 2007 Scion TC which burns 1qt or more every 1000 miles. This is a known issue with Toyota, they never issued a recall but some fix which I didn't realize until after the 10 year guarantee already passed. You are burning through oil so fast it could never go bad. Sounds like a rotory lol. If you have any info on the issue can you shoot a link? im curious whats causing it. I would definetly switch to regular oil for cost and if this is an issue where the oil is burning off for some reason, regular oil will burn away cleaner. Make sure you stay on top of oil filter changes though. As for how often to drain everything and swap, have you ever seen dirty oil come out of it during a change? I woukd do every 5k but basically just to remove any sediment from the bottome of the pan and to inspect. Thats really just so you catch any issues like metal flakes or to make sure no sediment is in there or other fluids. Your oil will always be so fresh that its life isnt going to come into play.
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Aug 1, 2017 19:02
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DogonCrook posted:You are burning through oil so fast it could never go bad. Sounds like a rotory lol. If you have any info on the issue can you shoot a link? im curious whats causing it. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10084308-5448.pdf https://www.youcanic.com/toyota/toyota-engine-oil-consumption It's not a recall, it's a "warranty enhancement." Basically, bad piston rings on these Toyotas: 2007-2009 Camry 2007-2011 Camry Hybrid 2007-2008 Solara 2009 Corolla 2009 Matrix 2006-2008 Rav4 2007-2008 Scion Tc 2008-2009 Scion Xb
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Aug 1, 2017 19:14
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DogonCrook posted:You are burning through oil so fast it could never go bad. Sounds like a rotory lol. If you have any info on the issue can you shoot a link? im curious whats causing it. I only started noticing this in the last year since I took on the oil change myself now that I have a house. I drove from east coast to west on a fresh new oil change and when I arrived to do an oil change out west, they told me there's like no oil in it.. it made me thought my mechanic back east was screwing me over somehow.. so the next time I went to finally do my oil change, I noticed like nothing dripped out of the god drat tray. I normally do oil changes at 3k, but I figure I could do it at 5k. This is the detail on the oil burn issue, this affects TONS of Toyota/Scion engines and has something to do with the pistons: http://www.toyotaproblems.com/trends/excessive-oil-consumption/ quote:Some 2006 – 2011 model year vehicles equipped with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit engine oil consumption. The piston assembly has been changed to minimize oil consumption.” And that “P030# (cylinder # misfire detected) DTC may also be set as a result of oil consumption. So I found this out just after my 10 year mark so I can't get it fixed free and from what I understand it's an expensive process to fix as they need to basically open up the engine. Thanks though, I'll start grabbing cheap oil. I just need the car to last another 5-10 years. edit: youtube video of issue explained https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgdZSXOslDM lol internet. fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Aug 1, 2017 |
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Aug 1, 2017 19:18
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1 quart per 1000 miles is not TOO bad. In fact, VW and Audi say that's "Normal" oil consumption. So yes - I'd just go to walmart and get the cheapest crap oil and keep fillin' it up, because it's way cheaper than a new engine. $5000 buys like 400 quarts of walmart oil!
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Aug 1, 2017 19:29
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Yeah stick with regular oil itll burn better. Watch yoir sparkplugs real close because those are innevitably going to foul earlier. Small batch oil is allowed to have more zinc so if you can find a cheap source of brad penn or something similar i would go with that. There are zinc additives too. Its not a huge deal with modern engines but if its lists zinc get the one with the most in it. Its doubtfull but it may slow this down a bit. Also floor that poo poo to redline once a week getting on the freeway or whatever. When you can get away with really get on it. May want to look into seafoam and do that once a year or every other year. Other than oil consumption you just want to watch out fpr the fact yoir spark will degrade faster than it should and you may build up deposits much faster. Thats what you want to keep an eye on in your oil. Other than cost itll probably not do any real damage if you can keep it clean in there.
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Aug 1, 2017 19:43
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My 2013 Audi A4 consumes nearly that amount. Maybe half a quart. It doesn't come with a dipstick, only a digital monitor that reads between max and min, so I am not sure what that translates to in quarts. Why are even newer VW/Audi engines so bad at avoiding blow-by? What is it they do that other makers don't?
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Aug 1, 2017 19:58
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Thats a problem thats been solved for 70 years at least. An engineer hosed up or they broke them in wrong but thats pretty unlikely.
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Aug 1, 2017 21:39
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I took my van into a quick lube place to get an oil change, and they broke the oil pressure sensor which ended up making a huge mess. I'm not upset about anything other than the goddamn oil mess and time sink that is getting it fixed. I've already called and spoken to management, I'm going to replace the part, they'll reimburse me and have offered up a few free oil changes. Thing is, I normally do my own oil changes (this is the first time in well over a decade I've taken a car somewhere) and I don't see that changing. I'm not sure what I should be asking for here. The engine has pumped out almost all of its oil and getting this fixed is a massive inconvenience as it is my only car right now (so no way to go pick up parts). I assume the engine will be fine since it never ran out of oil and still sounds fine. Considering the van is a total shitbox, but I value my time greatly, what should I be asking for from them? Part reimbursement + book time, transit time to deal with part-gathering, and time + materials for mess cleanup? Should I ask for more, or is that already unreasonable?
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Aug 1, 2017 21:56
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89 cougar Seems to be running hotter than usual. Until this summer, I could just run the AC all day and it wouldn't make the coolant temp go up unless I was idling in one spot for 20+ mins, but now it will start heating up at any moderately long red light. As a specific example, Sunday I drove up a long grade (route 46 in Oregon); as I went up the temp climbed up higher than normal but never passed the top of the "normal" range. Could audibly hear the coolant (currently all water) boiling. When I checked the coolant after the car had cooled off I hadn't lost any. It's borderline enough that I'm not 100% SURE there's an issue, because we're also in a big heat wave here. But it does feel like it shouldn't be doing this stuff, especially the boiling which I know isn't normal. The radiator is two years old, and I've replaced the lower hose and cap in the last couple months.
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Aug 1, 2017 22:03
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DogonCrook posted:Thats a problem thats been solved for 70 years at least. An engineer hosed up or they broke them in wrong but thats pretty unlikely. I don't understand your answer. This is a consistent problem with VW/Audi and other sporadic makes.
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Aug 1, 2017 22:05
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I mean they dont need to be pushing any limits on ring alloys or tolerances. I dont know why they are doing it but ring wear isnt some arcane art. They hosed up and at the end of the day whats even the payoff? Rings shouldnt be letting that much oil by.
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Aug 1, 2017 22:13
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Javid posted:89 cougar Maybe the fan isn't cycling properly. Could be the temperature sensor or the motor itself.
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Aug 1, 2017 22:40
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Ive never seen an accurate temp gauge either so if you can get 15 dollars of use out of a ir thermometer from home depot or Amazon pick one up and see where you are really even at.
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Aug 1, 2017 23:09
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Josh Lyman posted:Previous owner had engine coolant service at 104k miles, that was 14 months ago. Currently 131.5k. The inverter coolant reservoir is 100% full but the engine reservoir is empty. $26 for Toyota SLLC on Amazon The overflow reservoir has dropped from full to low, but I don't see any coolant on the ground when I leave my carport. Earlier tonight, I stopped for about 30 minutes to eat after running a errands for an hour and didn't see anything on the ground when leaving.
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Aug 2, 2017 01:38
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At least I'll be able to use for drain/fill on inverter loop at 150k per Toyota maintenance schedule.
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Josh Lyman posted:Inauspicious news. 9 days since I added coolant and I checked the levels while getting gas. All that coolant is going somewhere. If it's not leaking externally, it's likely leaking internally into a cylinder via a bad head gasket. Check your oil and see if it looks like a milkshake.
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Aug 2, 2017 01:48
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Deteriorata posted:All that coolant is going somewhere. If it's not leaking externally, it's likely leaking internally into a cylinder via a bad head gasket. Check your oil and see if it looks like a milkshake.
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Aug 2, 2017 01:58
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Just FYI if you need coolant for a toyota again zerex asian formula works fine, is available in the parts stores/walmart, and is a lot cheaper. I use it in my own toyotas. Its possible you had bubbles in the cooling system when you refilled it. Top it off again and see if it continues to disappear. A blown head gasket will make the oil look like a peanut butter milkshake if its bad enough. If its just a little leak there will be peanut butter milkshake on the underside of the oil cap.
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Aug 2, 2017 02:04
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You can buy an oil test kit from wix on amazon and you send it off and they can tell you if you have a leak. A vac gauge is the easiest way to figure out a lot of internal problems and learning how to use it will save your rear end. Its like 10 bucks and its really the only way to tell whats going on internally without pulling it apart. Its also really easy to do. If theres a leak in the head gasket it will show up on a vac gauge. http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/
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Aug 2, 2017 02:19
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rdb posted:Just FYI if you need coolant for a toyota again zerex asian formula works fine, is available in the parts stores/walmart, and is a lot cheaper. I use it in my own toyotas.  
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Aug 2, 2017 02:37
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Looks normal.
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Aug 2, 2017 02:52
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rdb posted:Looks normal.
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Aug 2, 2017 03:00
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Brown milky oil isnt normal thats water.
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Aug 2, 2017 03:07
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There is another piece of metal, in this case aluminum underneath the oil fill port. What your seeing is light, clean oil over aluminum, same as whats on the bottom of the cap and around the edge. You can see the very edge of the plate on the left corner.
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Aug 2, 2017 03:10
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That makes sense. The lighting is just right so it nails the color you dont want to see lol.
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Aug 2, 2017 03:15
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RIP Paul Walker posted:I took my van into a quick lube place to get an oil change, and they broke the oil pressure sensor which ended up making a huge mess. I'm not upset about anything other than the goddamn oil mess and time sink that is getting it fixed. Yeah that's kind of a weird one. The free oil changes mean nothing to them, and an equal amount of nothing to you. Since it's your only car and you need a part, you could try to demand one or two day's worth of rental car reimbursement. I pretty sincerely doubt you're going to get book/transit time from them outside of small claims court, which will cost you more in your valued time than just grinning/bearing it. Assuming your engine isn't actually damaged, I'd bill them for the part+oil, and post a scathing review on yelp/google once the funds cleared 
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Aug 2, 2017 03:16
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Yeah that's kind of a weird one. The free oil changes mean nothing to them, and an equal amount of nothing to you. Since it's your only car and you need a part, you could try to demand one or two day's worth of rental car reimbursement. I pretty sincerely doubt you're going to get book/transit time from them outside of small claims court, which will cost you more in your valued time than just grinning/bearing it. Assuming your engine isn't actually damaged, I'd bill them for the part+oil, and post a scathing review on yelp/google once the funds cleared I would also have them pay for an inspection at a mechanic to verify that no damage was done to pistons, valves etc. by a low oil condition. Assuming the OP isn't capable of that himself, I wouldn't be. Content: how much would this bug you? I changed a burned out HIDzzzzzz bulb but not in a pair, and the color is different.  I think I will shell out for another bulb, just curious if this would bug any of you.
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Aug 2, 2017 04:06
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That would annoy the gently caress out of me.
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Aug 2, 2017 04:30
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Michael Scott posted:I would also have them pay for an inspection at a mechanic to verify that no damage was done to pistons, valves etc. by a low oil condition. Assuming the OP isn't capable of that himself, I wouldn't be. This requires tearing down the motor, so pretty much nowhere is going to do this for a reasonable amount of money.
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Aug 2, 2017 07:40
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Michael Scott posted:I would also have them pay for an inspection at a mechanic to verify that no damage was done to pistons, valves etc. by a low oil condition. Assuming the OP isn't capable of that himself, I wouldn't be. Nobody will agree to pay for this. It's a fuckton of labor dollars.
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Aug 2, 2017 14:21
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DogonCrook posted:Ive never seen an accurate temp gauge either so if you can get 15 dollars of use out of a ir thermometer from home depot or Amazon pick one up and see where you are really even at. Oddly enough the gauge in my '12 Wrangler actually moves as the temp changes. I can pick out the difference between 205 and 215 despite it looking like a generic idiot light replacement.
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Aug 2, 2017 16:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That would annoy the gently caress out of me. I'm not seeing it, but color shift between a new and a heavily-used HID is A Thing. The HIDs on my MS3 went very purple before they burnt out. Godholio posted:Oddly enough the gauge in my '12 Wrangler actually moves as the temp changes. I can pick out the difference between 205 and 215 despite it looking like a generic idiot light replacement. Have you validated it against OBDII? Jeep does seem to stick with temp gauges that actually move (instead of a GM gauge that is programmed to stay dead nuts center for a wide range), but what the gauge "says" on my WJ is at least 10 degrees off of what OBDII reports. It doesn't help that the gauge scale is non-linear.
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Aug 2, 2017 18:23
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That's how I noticed, actually. I assumed the gauge was a typical low-normal-high but I wanted to see what temps the engine was seeing with a new radiator. I don't think it's actually linear, but there's some movement in the center that matches the readings.
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Aug 2, 2017 19:17
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Thats actually pretty cool. Offroad is probably the only time temp gauge accuracy even matters for the most part.
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Aug 2, 2017 19:50
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Yeah that's kind of a weird one. The free oil changes mean nothing to them, and an equal amount of nothing to you. Since it's your only car and you need a part, you could try to demand one or two day's worth of rental car reimbursement. I pretty sincerely doubt you're going to get book/transit time from them outside of small claims court, which will cost you more in your valued time than just grinning/bearing it. Assuming your engine isn't actually damaged, I'd bill them for the part+oil, and post a scathing review on yelp/google once the funds cleared That's not a bad idea about the rental car bit. I rent a shop within walking distance to my house, and a part store within walking distance happened to have a new sensor in stock - I was able to get it fixed last night no problem (though those motherfuckers had the filter on SO GODDAMN TIGHT that my oil filter pliers had to work extra-hard to get it off). I will itemize my part + time costs, and if they pay they pay, and if not they don't. I may pursue it, depending on available time. Engine certainly isn't damaged, or at least not enough that I would care. I'll revisit the thread after a final decision has been made by them/me/the court(s), in case anyone else is curious what this situation is like. This is just what I get for trying to be lazy. I have a shop with a lift, could have easily done this myself, but there was a car on the lift and another barely-running shitbox in the way... This ended up being way more work and way more getting dirty than just doing a loving oil change would have been.
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Aug 3, 2017 00:20
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| # ? May 30, 2024 02:14 |
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My girlfriends 05 ford Taurus lost all power to wheels while driving. I wasn't in the call when it happened and this is all second hand. I changed the oil a couple days ago. The engine apparently sounded fine, and would run, stop, and start, and would increase in RPMs when given gas, but the car would not go in drive or 2 (she didn't try reverse). I drove the car not a week ago and the transmission shifted fine - no noise, no problem hunting for gears. Could something really bad have failed on the transmission with no prior warning? Oh, also, the check engine light has been one the whole time she's had it and it seems no one, myself included, bothered to look into that. Edit - gently caress, the splines on the torque converter went, didn't they? http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/171569-2004-taurus-failed-transmission.html Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 00:45
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