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This isn't mine, but it actually makes Sigmarines look kind of cool now?
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Jul 6, 2017 21:00
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Fyrbrand posted:I painted a big dumb thing. Also, gently caress barnacles.  I love the blue mix berzerkmonkey posted:This isn't mine, but it actually makes Sigmarines look kind of cool now? Wow my friend was offering to give me some of his sigmarines angels and I do have Brets...
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Jul 6, 2017 21:16
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Fyrbrand posted:I painted a big dumb thing. Also, gently caress barnacles. gently caress that thing's dope as hell.
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Jul 6, 2017 22:20
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Fyrbrand posted:I painted a big dumb thing. Also, gently caress barnacles. Seconded. This is amazing. I like the flamingo 
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Jul 6, 2017 22:23
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The flamingo is ace and the paintjob is sweet as hell, but I've gotta tell ya the boat on his back is dumb as gently caress. Gorgeously painted, for sure. But still dumb. I mean, the thickness of the sail makes it look like it's made out of pizza dough, ffs.
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Jul 6, 2017 23:08
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Ilor posted:The flamingo is ace and the paintjob is sweet as hell, but I've gotta tell ya the boat on his back is dumb as gently caress. This. So much of this. What the gently caress PP. Great job on it though.
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Jul 6, 2017 23:28
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That boat troll dude is jaw-dropping good
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Jul 6, 2017 23:55
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Hey, so I'd like to transition a bunch of GW paints to dropper bottles, and they're a little thick to really get all of the paint out on each transfer. What should I be mixing in to make them more liquid without diluting them too much (so that I still get great coverage on base coats etc)? Lahmian medium? Boring old water? Comedy option is Vallejo airbrush flow improver?
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Jul 7, 2017 00:34
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Arcturas posted:Hey, so I'd like to transition a bunch of GW paints to dropper bottles, and they're a little thick to really get all of the paint out on each transfer. What should I be mixing in to make them more liquid without diluting them too much (so that I still get great coverage on base coats etc)? Lahmian medium? Boring old water? I think a medium would be best. Water can work but a video on restoring old Citadel paints said they would dry up faster.
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Jul 7, 2017 01:41
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Arcturas posted:Hey, so I'd like to transition a bunch of GW paints to dropper bottles, and they're a little thick to really get all of the paint out on each transfer. What should I be mixing in to make them more liquid without diluting them too much (so that I still get great coverage on base coats etc)? Lahmian medium? Boring old water? When I was on a big jars-to-dropper-bottles kick (which I should really get back onto, jeez), I added a mix of matte medium and a very small amount of flow improver. This was mostly after transferring the bulk of the paint into the bottle; I'd add the medium mix into the jar and shake vigorously to loosen up the leftover paint.
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Jul 7, 2017 03:06
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Pendent posted:I've been steadily churning through my Primaris marines over the past few weeks and am reasonably happy with how they're turning out. I'm obviously not up to what most of the people in this thread turn out but I think they're decent tabletop standard. Honestly it looks way to thick and strong to me. Consider what GW edge paints actually are: light pigments, thinned down. Try with less paint on the brush, and just use the edge of the brush. Sometimes the best highlights feel like "why did I bother doing this?" but the overall model looks so much better. Oh, and the yellow is too far for the highlights, the colours don't look sufficiently related. Otherwise, at your level recess shade might be more effective for getting the models to pop. Especially the metallics, god they look good with wash. Wash is skill in a bottle! Check this video (I know you're not doing blood angels, but the principles for paint red space marines), especially how they do the red armour. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9HzqHVg1uE Wazzu fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 05:46
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Sharkman posted:I think a medium would be best. Water can work but a video on restoring old Citadel paints said they would dry up faster. I added water years ago to some of my paints that were thickening up (I always painted directly from the little lip on the cap) and have never had a problem with them drying. The caps on those bottles just seal too well, especially with the dry paint ring that forms at the seal. Obviously, a medium isn't going to cause you any problems, but don't go out of your way to pick some up.
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Jul 7, 2017 13:35
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Is there any specific matte medium in the Vallejo range that would work?
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Jul 7, 2017 15:03
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Arcturas posted:Is there any specific matte medium in the Vallejo range that would work? I would just use Vallejo Thinner Medium.
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Jul 7, 2017 15:18
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Wazzu posted:Check this video (I know you're not doing blood angels, but the principles for paint red space marines), especially how they do the red armour. I'm a dirty cheater
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Jul 7, 2017 15:22
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bonds0097 posted:I would just use Vallejo Thinner Medium. Thanks! It's frustrating how GW can't be bothered to use normal names for stuff and, as a result, I have no idea what to look for when I get other companies' products.
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Jul 7, 2017 16:09
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We just got hit by a major rainstorm and I'm still waiting for the humidity to get low enough to prime my models and try out the new approach for yellow. In the interim I'm having a ton of fun scouring my bits box to hack apart some of these Primaris models and get rid of the stupid stuff like Marines not wearing helmets and characters not carrying power swords.
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Jul 7, 2017 16:11
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What's the scale comparison for old style marine hands with Primaris? Can I chop a Primaris ancient's hand & bolt rifle off and put a normal marine sword hand in its place without it looking comically tiny?
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Jul 7, 2017 17:01
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ineptmule posted:What's the scale comparison for old style marine hands with Primaris? Can I chop a Primaris ancient's hand & bolt rifle off and put a normal marine sword hand in its place without it looking comically tiny? The hands look identical. I plan on doing the same thing as you.
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Jul 7, 2017 17:27
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:We just got hit by a major rainstorm and I'm still waiting for the humidity to get low enough to prime my models and try out the new approach for yellow. In the interim I'm having a ton of fun scouring my bits box to hack apart some of these Primaris models and get rid of the stupid stuff like Marines not wearing helmets and characters not carrying power swords. Obligatory recommendation that you can use the normally airbrushable Vallejo Surface Primer with a regular brush. I've done this before (as the black base coat of zenithal priming), and as long as your brush is clean and you're working in a largely dust-free area, the primer shrinks nicely into all the details on the mini. Humidity defeated!
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Jul 7, 2017 18:23
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Does anyone have a good recipe for Reasonable Marines in olive green armor? I have some spare Intercessors and I want to paint a few different chapters for display
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Jul 7, 2017 18:43
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Obligatory recommendation that you can use the normally airbrushable Vallejo Surface Primer with a regular brush. I've done this before (as the black base coat of zenithal priming), and as long as your brush is clean and you're working in a largely dust-free area, the primer shrinks nicely into all the details on the mini. Humidity defeated! It's a bit more complicated than that. Fortunately I have plenty of mold lines to scrape while I wait.
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Jul 7, 2017 18:47
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:It's a bit more complicated than that. Fortunately I have plenty of mold lines to scrape while I wait. Not really, I've had great success with the black version. You just need to make sure it's not pooling too much in any one place. The white and grey are pretty streaky with a brush, though it's not a huge issue once you base coat. e: I just realized you're doing yellow, in which case you can do two thin coats of white or grey and it will be 95% even. I've done this under reds and oranges and it worked great. WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 18:51
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:It's a bit more complicated than that. Fortunately I have plenty of mold lines to scrape while I wait. Right, I forgot, you're doing that multi-step priming method to maximize your yellow. Carry on (post pictures please when you're finished, I'm really curious to see how that turns out!)
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Jul 7, 2017 19:01
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:I would suggest looking into Bluestuff molding. Quick question. One, Oyomaru's Blue Stuff appears to be very similar to InstaMorph and other thermoplastics. Can I use that instead, as it seems to be a cheaper alternative? Two, if it's heat sensitive, it seems like resin would warp the mould while it's curing. I'm guessing I'd need Milliput or some other epoxy?
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Jul 7, 2017 19:20
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Sharkman posted:Quick question. One, Oyomaru's Blue Stuff appears to be very similar to InstaMorph and other thermoplastics. Can I use that instead, as it seems to be a cheaper alternative? I'm sure any thermoplastic would work so long as it doesn't activate with super high temperature, so it doesn't obscure your models. I've seen liquid resin that needs to mix like an epoxy rather than heat, but I can't make any claims as to how good it is. I'm sure anything that stays cooler than the mould would work. poo poo, probably even greenstuff, or some other two-part epoxy putty, but be aware of materials you use, including their smell and toxicity. Use appropriate protection and ventilation!  You could always try bondo. Bondo is just a polyester resin with a talc filler to thicken it. It has the benefit of being malleable and cheap, as well as not suffering from shrinking because of the talc stabilizing the resin. I've seen people mix in a bit of fiberglass resin too to make it harder, but that might make it impossible to work with.
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Jul 8, 2017 03:44
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dr_ether posted:Finished the Tzaangors Holy poo poo dude, please post your recipe for that skin!
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Jul 8, 2017 04:56
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Airbrushing yellow worked great. Sepia wash, not so much.
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Jul 8, 2017 13:58
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Airbrushing yellow worked great. Sepia wash, not so much. drat what happened? I was just about to spray some wash on my death guard.
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Jul 8, 2017 14:31
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At a guess, too much much pressure or too much shade in one area made it start running. Also, I can see neat sepia being too strong a colour for the yellow.
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Jul 8, 2017 14:57
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:At a guess, too much much pressure or too much shade in one area made it start running. Also, I can see neat sepia being too strong a colour for the yellow. Yeah, that's what happened. I just sprayed it on to see what would happen, and it turned into a blotchy mess. So now I will try gloss coating and painting it on. I'm using GW gloss wash so I want the recesses to see most of the liquid. I do like what the sepia does to the yellow though. Adds a really nice golden hue. Also I really like using white as a highlight between ink layers. Currently trying this method: Brown/Bone/White Zenithal Layers Yellow Ink Spray White Edge Highlight Yellow Ink Spray Gloss Coat Brush Sepia Matte Coat The thing I love the most is that it's incredibly fast and lends itself to batch painting. Also has anyone had success with using pencils for highlighting?
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Jul 8, 2017 15:56
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Only when it comes to showing exposed metal. And you need to seal it afterwards.
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Jul 8, 2017 16:30
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Well that didn't work. Brushing sepia over the yellow causes the same problems, even with a gloss coat. It just looks dirty, which is weird because if I do it the other way (sepia then ink) it actually looks pretty good. I wanted to see if I could get better contrast and yellows by going ink then sepia, but clearly that's not viable. Going to use the airbrush with the following method and see how it works out: Brown/Bone/White Zenithal Sepia White Highlight Yellow Ink White Highlight Yellow ink I probably need to accept that whatever I do will likely take longer than I want. At least I am remembering how to use the airbrush. Beer4TheBeerGod fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jul 8, 2017 |
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Jul 8, 2017 19:23
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Obviously it looks a lot flatter than your technique probably does, but I go with: White undercoat, Averland, secondary colours then clean up with Averland), Flash gitz, Reikland in the recesses, then highlight Sunburst & White 1:1. It comes out like this  That needs some tinkering with for the highlight, and I'd like to try out liquid masking the secondary colours and airbrushing the Flash Gitz on for speed. And I'm going to switch to using the gloss version of Reikland, maybe over a quick gloss coat.
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Jul 8, 2017 20:13
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Obviously it looks a lot flatter than your technique probably does, but I go with: Holy crap those are gorgeous, please post more of your stuff!
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Jul 8, 2017 20:19
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Just to.make sure: Patriot 105 is the go to airbrush for priming and basecoats right? I already have a SOTAR for detail work.
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Jul 8, 2017 22:06
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HardCoil posted:Just to.make sure: Patriot 105 is the go to airbrush for priming and basecoats right? I already have a SOTAR for detail work. I would certainly swear by it. Primes and basecoats like a champ, super easy to clean and you can get replacement parts (like if you're and idiot like me and bend the needle) really easily.
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Jul 8, 2017 22:11
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Hamshot posted:Holy poo poo dude, please post your recipe for that skin! Zenithal Prime first. Using just Scale 75 paints from the Fantasy Games range. Then airbrushing from beneath, Eldanil Violet, then highlight via airbrush with Lendanis Grey. Wash with Hastur Purple. With a brush now highlight with Harvester Flesh, and then Moonray Flesh. For tints to make them look more magical, go in with glazes of some dark red or dark green to patches of the skin.
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Jul 8, 2017 22:21
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HardCoil posted:Just to.make sure: Patriot 105 is the go to airbrush for priming and basecoats right? I already have a SOTAR for detail work. I use it for everything. It's dope as gently caress
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Jul 9, 2017 06:11
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bonds0097 posted:I would certainly swear by it. Primes and basecoats like a champ, super easy to clean and you can get replacement parts (like if you're and idiot like me and bend the needle) really easily. Patriot is indeed amazing for those things. Priming, basecoating, and varnishing. And bending your needle is a rite of passage for an airbrush owner. You just don't understand how delicate the things are until you do it at least once. Luckily it's only like 
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Jul 9, 2017 12:24
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