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Seminal Flu posted:That sucks, but isn't surprising. Your clutch has probably seen triple the number of actuations compared to an average car with that mileage. Only triple?  Though the bulk of my miles these days are highway miles getting to the city my deliveries are in, followed by about 20 or 30 miles puttering around, then getting on the highway to get back to the warehouse.I'm at almost 162k, all original clutch components, so it was just a matter of time. I'm downright impressed that the disc outlasted the hydraulics. Also impressed that the starter hasn't let me down yet, as I don't leave the car running if I'm not in it. I used to, but I've known too many people who had their car disappear as soon as they looked away (then had insurance refuse to cover it, since they left it running, and got a ticket for leaving it running while unattended just to add the icing to the shitcake). I just need to limp it along long enough to earn enough cash to drop the trans, if bleeding (followed by a master cylinder) doesn't fix it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 20:33
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Double post action. This is how the pedal acts. Zero resistance till (almost) halfway down, then feels normal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pm-WK-U1RD0 The 2 times I've had to replace a slave cylinder, the pedal was kinda spongy and would sometimes get stuck all the way down. This is just nothing at all until I get resistance, then feels fine, aside from a really low engagement point. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 02:58
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I filled my crappy truck with more crap.  Honcho repower is a go for springtime. Time to buy stuff.
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Feb 3, 2017 04:05
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The fact that clutches last as long as they do these days blows my mind when I think of the forces and temperatures they have to contend with. I guess gearing helps when you're starting off in first with a 10:1+ gear ratio between engine and wheels, but drat.
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Feb 3, 2017 06:59
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I've only had a clutch wear out enough to start slipping once, and the car got stolen before I could replace it. That was an 80s Accord too, so not really that modern (but I taught myself how to drive stick on it).  I've managed to destroy 6 transmissions so far though..  (one was an automatic)It... probably helps that I've never owned a car with more than 2.3L, and I think the most HP I've ever had in one car was my 2001 Accord (150 hp). The sole exception to the displacement (but not HP) is the F-150 I owned, but it was automatic (5.8L with ~120 HP, I think?). And the transmission on that was being held together with Elmer's Glue Stick when I got it. So long as you're aware of how to reduce wear on a clutch, you can make them last for a lot longer than you would expect (in a passenger car, anyway). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 07:10
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MonkeyHate posted:The car hasn't been driven in at least five years so I spent half the day replacing points, condenser, distributor cap, plugs, wires, coolant, oil & filter well as draining the gas tank. Spent the next half of the day diagnosing a bad mechanical fuel pump and bypassing it with cheap electric pump. At the end of the day, the motor fired up and sounded sooo nice.  UPDATE Paid a small fortune to get a new master cylinder delivered today and spent the day wrestling it into the car. Went back into the house to feed my family and put the toddler to bed. Go back out to bleed the clutch only to find the car and all my tools covered by surprise snow in Seattle. Discovered I am too old and soft to do elective wrenching in the mud and snow. The Aristocrats.
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Feb 3, 2017 07:56
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Getting a quote to get the ball joints done on the car because I can take the head off an engine and do all that poo poo but having done all that, can't be arsed to lay on the ground to do suspension work. I had a look on Rockauto for ball joints and they're £15 a pop at the low end and £55 each at the top end. The garage called their supplier and came back with a cost of £210. Each. I laughed down the phone. He's trying again.
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Feb 3, 2017 15:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Double post action. If i had to guess, theres significant air in the system due to a leak or the MC is failing. That stuff is the "cheap" parts to throw at it before you gently caress with the imbedded slave (wtf), so get to bleeding!
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Feb 3, 2017 19:09
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Another question, does your car have a return spring on the clutch? It would make the clutch pedal still snap up and sort of mask the normal sagging that would occur.
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Feb 3, 2017 19:10
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Some googling says there is a spring. TT sent me a message on Facebook and said part of the linkage is plastic, and that he had to replace the pedal assembly in his Ion for the same issue.  It hasn't lost any fluid at all, and pumping the pedal doesn't improve the feel. I'm going to finally poke my head under the dash today and see what I can figure out.
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Feb 3, 2017 23:08
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kastein posted:I actually like the plastic ones. As you said, less corrosion andit handles the pressure fine. You can replace the cylinders and pipe individually I think... could swear rockauto has them. Some don't have bleed ports which makes things interesting. You can, but as I recall all the individual replacements were cast iron. As you say, the plastic ones don't have bleed ports. And the plastic fluid line uses o-rings, and a roll pin to hold them in the fitting, rather than fittings with threads. That shocked me when I saw it (one of my first things I do on a new-to-me-car is to flush and fill all the fluids - which I couldn't do on this clutch), but it never gave me any trouble, so I assume it's properly designed, in which case, thumbs up. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Double post action. That is kind of weird. Almost like air in the lines. Well, might as well replace the clutch disc if you're pulling the trans. Probably the pressure plate, too. kastein posted:I filled my crappy truck with more crap. Sweet! Hard to tell, but I think that's a Chebby van, so LSx? edit: nvm, just saw the posts in your thread. Previa_fun posted:The fact that clutches last as long as they do these days blows my mind when I think of the forces and temperatures they have to contend with. I guess gearing helps when you're starting off in first with a 10:1+ gear ratio between engine and wheels, but drat. Meanwhile, the clutch in my wife's Kia Spectra5 won't last more than 70k miles. Twice, now. Apparently, a Kia thing, according to my casual research.
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Feb 3, 2017 23:11
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Darchangel posted:Well, might as well replace the clutch disc if you're pulling the trans. Probably the pressure plate, too. SOP for me is if the trans is coming off, it gets a disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, rear crank seal, and in this case, a slave cylinder, unless it's all been done recently. I'm pretty sure the TOB and slave are the same unit on this anyway. e: holy poo poo when did a clutch kit get so expensive? $300 for a Sachs kit from Rockauto.  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 3, 2017 23:32
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Stuck my head up under the dash. TT nailed it. The pushrod doesn't even begin to move until the pedal is halfway down, so something is hosed between the pedal and pushrod.
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Feb 4, 2017 00:49
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:SOP for me is if the trans is coming off, it gets a disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, rear crank seal, and in this case, a slave cylinder, unless it's all been done recently. I'm pretty sure the TOB and slave are the same unit on this anyway. Good man. Huh, the kit for the Kia was like $100, with a Luk clutch (disk. The pressure plate was still Korean. Which I guess is OK for a Korean car? The previous replacement was Valeo, also Made In Korea.) edit: ^^^ fluid? MC all broked?
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Feb 4, 2017 00:59
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:TT nailed it. It truly is end times.
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Feb 4, 2017 01:06
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Some Saturn-specific forums also confirm that this is A Known Issue. GM made the pedal assembly out of plastic... with a metal pushrod that goes into in a cavity. Nope, that's not gonna wear out! OEM pedal assembly seems to range from $120-200 online. And it's specific to the Ion, I can't just grab one from another delta body and slap it in. If I went with a used one, I'd be playing roulette on if I got one that was worn as bad as mine is. Why the hell would you make a pedal assembly a wear item?  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Feb 4, 2017 |
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Feb 4, 2017 03:25
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
Come on you know why.
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Feb 4, 2017 03:57
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Previa_fun posted:The fact that clutches last as long as they do these days blows my mind when I think of the forces and temperatures they have to contend with. I guess gearing helps when you're starting off in first with a 10:1+ gear ratio between engine and wheels, but drat. IIRC the clamp load from the pressure plate is usually over a thousand pounds, so with a decent friction coefficient I'm not too too surprised really. This is another reason you don't want to stand on the clutch at lights, that force has to go somewhere, namely the crank thrust bearing, at idle with minimum oil pressure. I'll pass, feel free to make your own decisions though.
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Feb 4, 2017 04:50
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I don't like standing on the clutch either. I always thought I was putting extra wear on the TOB.... and my leg gets tired.
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Feb 4, 2017 05:05
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My Silvia had a problem similar where the clutch pedal bracket snapped. the spot welds get loose if you run even the OEM clutch too low since the pressure required to actuate increases exponentially with less friction material. I replaced it with a Nismo bracket which is exactly the same bracket with a few extra little welds. what was interesting was putting in a new Heavy duty organic clutch to handle up to 300HP and it brand new was lighter than the OEM clutch that was nearly completely worn out. Im scared of how heavy the new clutch is gonna be when its that worn
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Feb 4, 2017 11:14
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Newer Subaru WRXs have the same problem with the clutch pedal coming loose. But that's because they make their cars (an engine parts) out of ever cheaper and flimsier metal each time. Why does the actuation pressure go up exponentially, though?
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Feb 4, 2017 16:16
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Some Saturn-specific forums also confirm that this is A Known Issue. GM made the pedal assembly out of plastic... with a metal pushrod that goes into in a cavity. Nope, that's not gonna wear out! For the miles, this is about as good a result as you could have, especially with that internal slave bullshit!
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Feb 4, 2017 17:08
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Rear endlink, outer tie rod and O2 sensor on the new beater.   Thanks to tax, registration, and an expensive rear end lambda sensor my $700 civic doubled in price.
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Feb 4, 2017 20:03
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I accidentally ordered the wrong intake manifold for the 98 Grand Marquis and Summit Racing wouldn't accept a return, so I entombed all of the openings on the head and manifold in RTV. The only real difference between the two is one hole in the gasket, anyway. And a lack of a suitable heater inlet fitting. Thanks, guys. I will always be paranoid about raining coolant in the winter. It seems to not leak so far...but I'm gonna try to be more dedicated to an emergency car part fund just in case. I was barely able to scrape by this month because of that. But on the plus side, I can remove and reassemble a formerly intimidating thing lightning fast now!
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Feb 4, 2017 22:40
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PaintVagrant posted:For the miles, this is about as good a result as you could have, especially with that internal slave bullshit! Oh I agree 100%. I'm just annoyed that the pedal is made out of plastic, and that I'll have to drop the steering column to replace it. I'm amazed that the clutch has made it this long, and once the pedal does hit the pushrod, it still feels smooth. The only issue I have with the actual clutch is it chatters for the first few shifts when it's below ~50F or so outside and it's been sitting overnight, but given the miles, that's pretty good. I'm amazed the clutch has lasted as long as it has.
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Feb 5, 2017 05:41
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Just a little rust: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jt4Bctwe2RU Passenger side sill plate:    Inner/Outer sill plates "installed."    Door seal:   
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Feb 5, 2017 05:45
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Ordered non-poo poo wheels and tires for the commuter bitch. Looking forward to getting it aligned. Tires that came on it are bald, cracked, and have weirdo wear patterns. Pretty impressive.
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Feb 5, 2017 05:53
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Finally got around to finishing the reupholster job on my 300zx seats. I cut the time on the second by about 90% once I had figured out how to do it. It doesn't have quite a professional look about the job, but as a first go I'm pleased with the outcome  A before and after  
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Feb 5, 2017 07:13
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Wow, that's a lot better! Was that your first seat reupholstering ever? Makes me feel super lazy for not even stitching up the little tears in my bolsters.
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Feb 5, 2017 16:31
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Yeah I'd say that looks just about perfect, well done. I'd be more than happy with that, and like Switch it's making me feel like even more of a poo poo for not dealing with the tears in the C70s driver seat.
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Feb 5, 2017 17:25
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Changed the oil and got it to pass inspection after an accident back in late 2015. And now registered. The blinkers and bumper on the front left side got knocked out when I hit a median to avoid dooring someone. Most of the front end is held together with zip ties. If I wasn't a mechanic previously the condition of my car would probably disturb me. A lot.
Anagram of GINGER fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 07:14
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chrisgt posted:
Not sure, but when I was in the clutch workshop I raised the question of "how heavy" will the new clutch be and he showed me that the oem clutch plate from my car required a ton more force than my new clutch using a fancy clutch pressure scales or something. I think it's because the pivot point extends beyond a certain threshold as there is less material on the clutch, and the sharper angle results in less leverage? Maybe a physics nerd can weigh in
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Feb 6, 2017 09:52
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I sold my ride to my insurance company because my 2004 Civic Hybrid battery caught fire. 
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Feb 6, 2017 10:26
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Party Plane Jones posted:I sold my ride to my insurance company because my 2004 Civic Hybrid battery caught fire. Story time? What if your car was in an attached garage at the time, it could've started a house fire.
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Feb 6, 2017 13:45
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Yes, that's typically how fire works.
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Feb 6, 2017 14:31
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pictures are cool too
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Feb 6, 2017 14:56
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I was late to work today due to a car on fire on the motorway. I get to work and look at the BBC news site aaaaaaaand I see that Vauxhall is investigating Zafiras that have self-immolated. The car on fire earlier on was a Zafira. Whoops.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:00
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If I was a Vauxhall I would want to self immolate as well.
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Feb 6, 2017 15:57
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Michael Scott posted:Story time? What if your car was in an attached garage at the time, it could've started a house fire. It was in the best location for it to happen, a gravel lot with nothing around. I wasn't around so the oxygen in the car depleted quickly and the fire fizzled out. It was basically a write off only because it destroyed the hybrid battery (which is more than the car was worth at that point) and wrecked the interior with smoke. Car was pretty much fine otherwise.   To give you a perspective of how limited the damage was, this box was in my trunk, the battery caught fire near the rear of the trunk/back seat. The car still drove, it was just hotboxed with chemical smoke damage and a giant blinking IMA battery warning. 
Party Plane Jones fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Feb 6, 2017 |
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Feb 6, 2017 16:51
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Getting ready to do a flush/filter job on my 95 Caprice Wagon. Got a MIL (I wasn't driving) and well the fluid looks like hell and apparently it shifted like crap with the 4l60E. Long story. It's a 95 with an LT1. Figured I throw this question out there since I can't find a thread about LT1s and everything seems to be outdated on google land. Onto the question... Has a 12 pin diag port. The 94 to 95 GM years were in lala land with OBD1.5. Apparently I can I get the proper ALDL cable (they are proud of that cable given the price.) So what the hell software do I need to read the drat code? And yeah, I figure the tranny is on its way out. Just trying to get more life out of it.
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Feb 6, 2017 20:24
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C-Bangin' it 