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Rexxed posted:Oh yeah, after the 3d printer filament drying systems made the rounds on youtube I bought a food dehydrator that is exactly the same as one of those except for the container part on the top. You can just cut out the grid of a couple of the trays to make filament rolls fit. LOL, it's identical. Just a quick screen print addition and a 250% markup!
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Dec 18, 2018 13:45
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sharkytm posted:LOL, it's identical. Just a quick screen print addition and a 250% markup! It's funny the same people that are known for the clumsliest bodges don't realize they could bodge a food dehydrator to get basically the same machine.
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Dec 18, 2018 16:26
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I'll see your food dehydrator and raise you a light bulb in a bucket. http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html (lol "incondecent")
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Dec 18, 2018 17:01
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I'll see you lightbulb in a bucket and raise you using the bags of silica desiccant your filament came with in a zip loc bag. They're re-useable, just put em in the oven on low for a bit.
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Dec 18, 2018 18:44
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ReelBigLizard posted:I'll see you lightbulb in a bucket and raise you using the bags of silica desiccant your filament came with in a zip loc bag. Yeah, you can dehydrate those in the dehydrator while you're drying filament, too, but the oven works. I think the main thing you want a dehydrator or small oven for are just drying really hygroscopic filament rolls that would have issues. Besides the usual suspects I found that my wood fill PLA benefited from some time in the dehydrator, too There was slightly less surface roughness afterwards. I'm humidifying my Orchid and dehydrating my filament and it's 40% humidity due to being winter time! I've got ten of these little hygrometers all over the house: https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-5Pcs-Digital-LCD-Temperature-Humidity-Meter-indoor-Thermometer-Hygrometer/302452212860 Coincidentally Joel, the 3D Printing Nerd did a short video on his dehydrator today. The main takeaway is that it costs more than the kind I have but it's big and can handle more than two rolls of filament. I'm not sure why I'd need to dry so much at once but I'm sure it makes sense for some folks. He probably got it to dry food originally, too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZRAVdqy990
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Dec 18, 2018 19:06
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I was trying the other way for fun. A skillet griddle set to 45C, with a glass mixing bowl on top holding the filament. Let that warm up over 2 hours, then suck all the air out with a compressor to -15 psi. Seems despite the vacuum working to my benefit, getting it airtight is proving difficult. I'm pretty close to just dropping 50 bucks on a dehyrdrater.
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Dec 18, 2018 19:12
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When my physics teacher did vacuum jar demos, she put some kind of grease between the jar and the plate to keep it sealed.
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Dec 18, 2018 19:17
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Christmas bonus came in, I'm now in the market for a resin-based printer for D&D minis. I've been researching the Peopoly Moai, Anycubic Photon, and Wanhao D7. Are there any other well-reviews resin-based printers I should look at? The Form2 is out of my price range unfortunately.
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Dec 19, 2018 20:04
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Prusa released one as well, it seems similar to a lot of the others in your price range, though: https://www.prusaprinters.org/introducing-original-prusa-sl1-open-source-sla-3d-printer-by-josef-prusa/
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Dec 19, 2018 20:05
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Man i had this big post written up about how adding a BLTouch to my Ender 3 hosed up everything. X Axis not working properly anymore, end stops not doing what they are supposed to. Made a Youtube video and everything. Prepared to beg for help! Turns out, the connectors to the Mainboard are just garbage and after jiggling them around a bit everything works fine again...I'll have to glue those fuckers down...
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Dec 19, 2018 22:41
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Connectors that don't are the worst.
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Dec 19, 2018 23:16
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Rexxed posted:Prusa released one as well, it seems similar to a lot of the others in your price range, though: I've never tried the SL1 but I trust Prusa equipment implicitly, and if I were buying low-cost resin machine that's the one I'd go for. I understand that the Photon is also quite good. The prints I've seen in this thread look mostly comparable to what comes off a Form 2.
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Dec 19, 2018 23:25
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Christmas bonus came in, I'm now in the market for a resin-based printer for D&D minis. I have an anycubic photon and I love it. Leveled the bed once and have had really good successful prints with it. Some failures here and there, but those were all support related and errors from me, not the machine. The detail this thing puts out is immense, and I can pump out 6-9 hero forge size minis a day. Printed about a liter and a half so far and it’s been a joy. Make sure you consider your cleaning and curing process as well. I use a heated ultrasonic cleaner with Magic Yellow 7 as the cleaning agent, then after that is a 45-60 second isopropyl alcohol bath and small scrub with a soft bristled tooth brush. Then I have a during chamber I printed and lined with aluminum foil, turn the uv light in an let it cure for 5-7 minutes depending on how it looks.
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Dec 20, 2018 00:56
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taqueso posted:When my physics teacher did vacuum jar demos, she put some kind of grease between the jar and the plate to keep it sealed. I think I have that part covered, I'm using a sheet 2mm closed foam craft foam as a gasket. I think it's the hose to valve connections leaking, as I went from getting -15 psi to only -10 psi when I add that. I'm going to try printing out a block to mount the valve/gauge/hose barb to, then cover it in expoxy to get it all airtight. If that doesn't work, I'll try actual rubber for the gasket.
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Dec 20, 2018 16:17
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Today has been a good day for fixing my printers. Cura has been giving me some weird under extrusion issues on my CR-10s printers since the 3.4 update that I couldn’t get nailed down. I narrowed it down to combing causing loss of nozzle prime near the end of a layer. Turning combing off fixed that right up! My Ender 3 was having some weird bed issues where it was super unlevel, way higher on one side. Turns out one of the screws holding the x-gantry has come lose and was allowing it to move up and down around 6MM. After tightening that up and redoing my Z offset its printing like a dream again. Also just got a Geetech A20m to mess with some dual color stuff. It’s currently on its maiden print and doing super well. I really want to try out the fading colors option. Welp I guess that’s my night in a nutshell if anyone cares
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Dec 21, 2018 02:25
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I recently got a Taz 6, it's been really great so far. With some Polymaker PLA filament it had nearly perfect prints out of the box. Been working with some eSun PETG and it's going somewhat well, but I'm getting gaps in the outer perimeter that I'm not sure what to make of. Under extrusion? Weird retraction? This started with the PETG, the PLA has been working without a hitch. I did a small print with ABS and it looked fine, but since I don't have an enclosure for another week or so it held together about as well as a stack of pringles. I'm using Cura LE right now, with the Standard 0.28mm IC3D PETg profile with the heat bumped up and the speed knocked down a bit. It's a labyrinth box. Right side of the image is the base.  The layers appear to be bonding fine, it's very strong.
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Dec 21, 2018 03:45
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mekilljoydammit posted:I've cast aluminum with PLA filaments - never had enough trouble that I thought it was worth going to the wax stuff.  and i think I’d try PVA support filament before that expensive wax stuff.
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Dec 21, 2018 06:48
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PirateDentist posted:I recently got a Taz 6, it's been really great so far. With some Polymaker PLA filament it had nearly perfect prints out of the box. Been working with some eSun PETG and it's going somewhat well, but I'm getting gaps in the outer perimeter that I'm not sure what to make of. Under extrusion? Weird retraction? This started with the PETG, the PLA has been working without a hitch. I did a small print with ABS and it looked fine, but since I don't have an enclosure for another week or so it held together about as well as a stack of pringles. I'm using Cura LE right now, with the Standard 0.28mm IC3D PETg profile with the heat bumped up and the speed knocked down a bit. Re: ABS -- I used to have all manner of problems printing it on my MakerGear M2s (which aren't enclosed). I was printing slow, at 240ish, like all the guides said to do. I finally said "gently caress-it", and just cracked the heat to 290C. Now all ABS prints like a dream, without an enclosure, no warping, and no delamination. I did the same thing with PETG -- I print that stuff at 265C, and it's rock solid with a beautiful gloss. So, try hotter 
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Dec 21, 2018 16:18
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insta posted:Re: ABS -- I used to have all manner of problems printing it on my MakerGear M2s (which aren't enclosed). I was printing slow, at 240ish, like all the guides said to do. Just be weary of any PTFE at those temps. I also found my first prints of ABS needed to be up about 265C. But now that I'm running my own calibrated thermistor tables (Measured from in the melt zone), 230-250 prints just fine. I took measurements up to about 315C, when I started to smell fumes from something vaporizing.
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Dec 21, 2018 16:44
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The big Stratasys printers print ABS at 270C in a 70C enclosure, fwiw.
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Dec 21, 2018 16:56
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insta posted:Re: ABS -- I used to have all manner of problems printing it on my MakerGear M2s (which aren't enclosed). I was printing slow, at 240ish, like all the guides said to do. Nice, I'll give that a try. Increase it by 5C at a time and see what happens. Hexagon hotend can handle 300C, so no problems from a hardware standpoint going high. I got their 0.25mm nozzle toolhead as well, and it has very impressive results for right out of the box on a full Taz 6. This tiny engine block for a hotwheels car was the second print attempt with it. Green PLA then hit with a white airbrushed primer with pretty much no cleanup.  0.05mm layer height, took about 2.5 hours. 15mm x 11.5mm is the print size for those unfamiliar with a US quarter.
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Dec 22, 2018 01:06
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That's outstanding. Nice!
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Dec 22, 2018 01:21
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The Eyes Have It posted:That's outstanding. Nice!  Increased the heat to 250C with my PETG, and it shows improvement!  A Taz 6 on my Taz 6.  Printed with supports, a bit tough to remove the little ones. There's still a some roughness to the layers in spots, but no more big voids. Next test is a bit higher temp I think.
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Dec 22, 2018 05:33
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Holy gently caress!
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Dec 22, 2018 05:42
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Printed with supports, that's not all that impressive, side from the lack of stringing.
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Dec 22, 2018 16:31
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Do you have $90k and an interest in printing with welding wire? https://youtu.be/EqCjRoZmOno
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Dec 22, 2018 23:07
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Do you have $90k and an interest in printing with welding wire? No, and yes. Guess I'll wait for the cheap chinese version in five years to make myself a full suit of platemail a couple of square cm at a time.
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Dec 22, 2018 23:44
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sharkytm posted:Printed with supports, that's not all that impressive, side from the lack of stringing. True, but compared to the puzzle tube further up in the thread it doesn't have massive gaps in the outer perimeter layers. Aiming for settings for a competent print at the moment with this filament.
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Dec 23, 2018 06:42
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My mom's sewing machine has a small metal part (~1" in the biggest dimension) that's broken and is preventing her from using some of the machine's features. She's tried to get a replacement, but apparently the manufacturer doesn't stock that part for that older model any more. Any suggestions on a company that could scan the part and 3D-print a new one? I don't think it would be cheap, but I assume it would probably be cheaper than buying a whole new sewing machine.
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Dec 24, 2018 06:24
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What does the part do? That's important. What does it look like? Need pictures.
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Dec 24, 2018 07:24
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Craptacular posted:My mom's sewing machine has a small metal part (~1" in the biggest dimension) that's broken and is preventing her from using some of the machine's features. She's tried to get a replacement, but apparently the manufacturer doesn't stock that part for that older model any more. Any suggestions on a company that could scan the part and 3D-print a new one? I don't think it would be cheap, but I assume it would probably be cheaper than buying a whole new sewing machine. Scanning is the tricky part here. There's some prototyping places that will work with you to make a model that they can print in plastic or different metals, but it's usually meant for industry so it's not a small amount of money because you're hiring one of their CAD team to work on your project. Also, if you want it made in metal it will cost a bit more than 3d printing plastic. I modeled a part for my friend's car that took 17g of PLA plastic. Having Shapeways print it in metal would've been $73 for steel (and more for almost anything else). I ended up printing it in nylon (the original part was probably ABS or ASA). Take a look at some of the industry tech on Jay Leno's Garage. I don't doubt this is thousands of dollars of work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzIGfcIyBnc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwFspzVGUF4 It wouldn't be impossible to do what you want without a lot of money, I'm just not sure if there's a company that will do it and be a lot more expensive than a new sewing machine. If you can model it yourself it would be easy to have it 3d printed. You can reproduce a lot of things with some calipers and Fusion 360 or maybe even TinkerCAD (or another free 3d CAD software). If you have a lot of time to put into it you could also try Photogrammetry: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1D0EhSi-vvc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2VazVGm7TU If it's kind of a simple thing like a cylinder or a platform or something it might not be too difficult to have someone model it for you if you wanted, but we'll need some more details. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Dec 24, 2018 |
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Dec 24, 2018 07:37
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There's a living crap ton of sewing machine parts already on Thingiverse. What part is it? I sew a lot, I'm interested.
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Dec 24, 2018 19:24
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Definitely model it. Consumer-price scanning sucks, flat-out.
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Dec 24, 2018 19:37
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3D scanning of mechanical parts is almost never used directly for output anyway. The scan is used as a reference to help reconstruct the entire part from scratch, with critical mechanical features measured with calipers and micrometers. Unless the part has some really complex curvature or a specially ground cam profile or something, I'd suggest just getting a set of decent calipers and learning Fusion 360, because that's what a digitization service is going to do anyway.
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Dec 24, 2018 20:34
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Once you’ve recreated it and done a test print in plastic you can use a bureau like shapeways to print it in metal, if required.
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Dec 24, 2018 21:15
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I think the CF Nylon wore my plated steel nozzle a bit. After the holidays I need to do maintenance on belts, pulleys, nozzle, steppers, z-axis, firmware, bearings. 
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Dec 24, 2018 21:16
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Yeah if you are doing anything in 3D printing like trying to replicate existing parts, or make adapters/holders for existing things to fit in, etc., then calipers are invaluable. I highly recommend these https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W Very precise with a large display and battery life is decent.
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Dec 24, 2018 21:17
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I have that caliper set, but I usually just grab my dial calipers. Just, ease of use https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tool...RzWL&ref=plSrch
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Dec 24, 2018 21:19
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The  version at harbor freight works fine too
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Dec 24, 2018 21:41
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Bean posted:There's a living crap ton of sewing machine parts already on Thingiverse. The part is what holds the needles on a Singer serger. It's the U-shaped part in the front, held in by screws. 
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Dec 25, 2018 01:27
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