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lol internet. posted:2007 Scion TC, need to replace spark plugs. Any recommendations? The service manual says replace every 120k. I see cheap $12 NGK and premium $30 NGK/denso brands. Will cheap do 120k? I have no idea directly, but given that it's a 120k mile part there's no sense in cheaping out on it. The potential downside of the cheaper being inferior and causing other problems is much bigger than the money saved. That's my reasoning, anyway. High wear, short life parts I'll risk a cheapo because it's not going to last very long regardless. Long-wearing parts I replace once every few years I spend on because I have to live with them. On the other hand, spark plugs are easy to replace so if they're bad it's not that big of a deal to swap them out. Maybe it's worth the risk. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Aug 14, 2017 |
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Aug 14, 2017 19:05
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Also hooning honestly doesnt create as much heat as loping along under load at peak torque like 3 or 4k rpms on a highway.
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Aug 14, 2017 19:11
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Deteriorata posted:I have no idea directly, but given that it's a 120k mile part there's no sense in cheaping out on it. The potential downside of the cheaper being inferior and causing other problems is much bigger than the money saved. Some engines actually don't respond well to expensive platinum type plugs. The 4G63 for example needs standard copper NGKs as opposed to iridium or platinum. More expensive plugs tend to cause problems.
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Aug 14, 2017 19:11
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BoostCreep posted:Some engines actually don't respond well to expensive platinum type plugs. The 4G63 for example needs standard copper NGKs as opposed to iridium or platinum. More expensive plugs tend to cause problems. True. I was thinking more along the lines of expensive OEM equivalents versus cheaper substitutes. There are times when saving money ends up being more expensive. ETA: To answer the original question, I would recommend getting the equivalent of what was in there and not fool around. If the cheap NGK is the same as the original, go with that. Otherwise, don't buy the cheap plugs just because they're cheap. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Aug 14, 2017 |
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Aug 14, 2017 19:15
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BoostCreep posted:Some engines actually don't respond well to expensive platinum type plugs. The 4G63 for example needs standard copper NGKs as opposed to iridium or platinum. More expensive plugs tend to cause problems. Ill second that and some cars are fairly sensitive to it.
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Aug 14, 2017 19:15
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lol internet. posted:2007 Scion TC, need to replace spark plugs. Any recommendations? The service manual says replace every 120k. I see cheap $12 NGK and premium $30 NGK/denso brands. Will cheap do 120k? Hard to say without PNs. OEM supplier is Denso (as are most Toyota engines). NGK replacement PN is IFR6T11 and can be had for 8 bucks each online.
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Aug 14, 2017 19:19
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Deteriorata posted:True. I was thinking more along the lines of expensive OEM equivalents versus cheaper substitutes. There are times when saving money ends up being more expensive. Honestly buy the cheap ones and just change them or check them once a year amd clean them if applicable. Spark plugs give you a really good heads up whats going on in your engine if you look at a spark plug reading chart and if the plugs struggle so does the rest of the system. E: by cheap i mean oem
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Aug 14, 2017 19:21
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Bad Munki posted:I'm about to inherit a 66 Datsun roadster that I need to ship from Seattle, WA to Des Moines, IA. Any specifically goon-recommended transport companies? I've never shipped a car before so I don't have much of a baseline here. So this worked out fine, I put it on a barge from Alaska to Seattle and then had it transferred to a carrier from there to Iowa. This little doodad arrived at my door first thing this morning:  Two new questions: 1) Is there a particular thread I should use for questions about such a car? 2) Need to sort out insurance. Obviously not a daily driver, fair-weather only, now and then. Not going to shows or anything like that, but I might like to take it on a date now and then in the summer? Otherwise it'll get socked away in storage over the winter. Figuring I'll go with some sort of antique insurance, any recommended providers? I do have access to USAA, if it's of note, although they just have an agreement with some other group, American Collectors Insurance I think it's called. Long story short, I have no idea if any groups are particularly good or bad, and am looking for some guidance in that regard.
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Aug 15, 2017 02:21
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Congrats man thats a good looking car. Id look into registering antique if your state allows it. For the insurance bit i would honestly just shop them all there arent very many that even offer it. Hagerty's is the big one. Geico offers it now im not sure about the other large providers. You basically just answer more questions and may need an appraisal. They will be interested in where you keep it so thats something to consider too. A locked garage is obviously best and will get you lower rates. Also on that note these cars are ludicriusly easy to steal so a killswitch or some way to immobilize the car or a tracker can lower your rates.
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Aug 15, 2017 03:22
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Oh right, I forgot about antique registration, thanks for reminding me, since I'll be doing that tomorrow. Pretty sure Iowa does that. For a kill switch, are you thinking something that can kill it remotely, or just some hidden switch in the car that'll prevent it from running, a la Fury Road?
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Aug 15, 2017 03:51
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I'd like to talk batteries for a moment. I have a 1986 Porsche 944 n/a. The battery hasn't been holding a charge, and so I took it to Autozone and had it tested. They confirmed the battery is bad. They want $170 for a new battery. The plus is that it has a five year warranty. I have a friend that works at Advance Auto and gets a 20% discount. He can only do about $156 after the discount and core. Those are both store-brand batteries. I'm told it's a T6 style battery. I don't know if that matches what I have in there right now, but I'll check when I get home. Where is a good place to get qualtity batteries for a good price? What other size batteries can I look at?
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Aug 15, 2017 15:19
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That's about what they run these days. Seems like a decent price for a five year battery.
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Aug 15, 2017 15:23
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Batteries are largely the same, especially since there's only a few companies making them. You're really buying on warranty and support. If Costco carries your battery size, they're great because they have the lowest hassle exchange of anyone I've dealt with.
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Aug 15, 2017 15:57
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CornHolio posted:I'd like to talk batteries for a moment. You might actually be able to use a differently sized battery that costs less. For example - the smaller 96R used in the Ford Focus has 590 CCA and the same hold-down attachments as a T6. The OEM battery on the 944 had 600CCA. Pretty close! A Group size 91 battery is the same exact dimensions as the T6. A 48 H6 is also very similar and usually has over 700 CCA.
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Aug 15, 2017 16:49
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Yeah, if it physically fits and has a sufficient amount of elastic trickery contained within it, the decision for me is usually warranty. Seems like it's not much more for 4-5 years branded over an unbranded 3 year one once you start hunting around with discount codes etc.
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Aug 15, 2017 16:53
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InitialDave posted:has a sufficient amount of elastic trickery contained within it I'm not sure what you mean by this part. Also, what's better, a wet battery or a dry battery?
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Aug 15, 2017 18:16
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CornHolio posted:I'm not sure what you mean by this part.
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Aug 15, 2017 22:29
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2014 Hyundai Accent Today I used my tire mobility kit to help a friend out of a jam. I am now out one canister of sealant. My obvious first stop for a replacement was ebay but results have been very strange. The OEM sealant canister is more expensive than getting an entire replacement kit with compressor and sealant. Guess my question is where can I find a new sealant canister than isn't ridiculously expensive? Are there non-OEM alternatives that'll work with my compressor/vehicle?
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Aug 15, 2017 22:29
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cigaw posted:2014 Hyundai Accent Anybody and everybody sells them. Try Amazon online, or Walmart or Target or an auto parts store for a B&M. There's nothing magical about the specific Hyundai OEM stuff. It's all the same.
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Aug 15, 2017 22:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Batteries are largely the same, especially since there's only a few companies making them. You're really buying on warranty and support. Make sure you get a copy of their warranty in writing. Most places do NOT do proration anymore. Napa still does. And keep your receipt...their store records system doesn't always work.
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Aug 15, 2017 22:53
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Godholio posted:Make sure you get a copy of their warranty in writing. Most places do NOT do proration anymore. Napa still does. And keep your receipt...their store records system doesn't always work. May I suggest photocopying the receipt and keeping a copy in a plastic sleeve stuck to the new battery?
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Aug 15, 2017 23:01
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InitialDave posted:Elastic trickery - electricity. It's a stupid line from a beer advert or something about 20 years ago.
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Aug 16, 2017 05:50
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InitialDave posted:Elastic trickery - electricity. It's a stupid line from a beer advert or something about 20 years ago. ha, I get it now. That's pretty awesome.
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Aug 16, 2017 19:24
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Does anybody have any experience in the cost of replacing a catalytic converter on a 2013 Toyota Tacoma? It's a 4 cylinder engine and the current cat. converter somehow fragmented. My dad took it off to get all the bits of metal out but he said it was basically busted and that I'd have to replace it. Are there any good after market converters I can buy? The Toyota dealership quoted me like $1200 for a replacement, but I'm seeing several options online between $300-1200 dollars depending on brand and capacity. Edit: There was a warranty extension bulletin issued for this and Toyota will apparently replace the part for free. I guess the guy I talked to on the phone didn't know about the recall. Vargatron fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Aug 17, 2017 |
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Aug 17, 2017 14:23
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http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2013,tacoma,2.7l+l4,3015099,exhaust+&+emission,catalytic+converter,5808 (if you're not in CA or NY)
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Aug 17, 2017 14:26
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Vargatron posted:Does anybody have any experience in the cost of replacing a catalytic converter on a 2013 Toyota Tacoma? It's a 4 cylinder engine and the current cat. converter somehow fragmented. My dad took it off to get all the bits of metal out but he said it was basically busted and that I'd have to replace it. Every cheap aftermarket cat I've seen used lasts for a couple years or so and that's it. It's also not an option if you are in CA. Do you have less than 80k miles on it? There is a federal emissions warranty that should cover it. (P sure it's 80k).
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Aug 17, 2017 14:30
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BoostCreep posted:Thanks for the advice. Do you think a thermostat is important on a race car that will only see use at road race events and HPDEs? There's very little reason NOT to run an oil cooler in a car that's going to be raced in 90°+ conditions. Is this a turbo car? Stable oil temps are even more important to turbo bearings than they are to engines. Oil thermostats aren't there to regulate temperature like a coolant thermostat. Oil system thermostats are a start-up aid. You want the oil to come to temp quickly, and to stay hot even when you're out of the throttle. Most thermostats start to open at ~165° and are fully open at 180°. Over-cooling of the oil supply can result in entrained moisture causing issues. Get that poo poo hot, fast, and keep it there while the engine is running.
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Aug 17, 2017 14:49
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Motronic posted:Every cheap aftermarket cat I've seen used lasts for a couple years or so and that's it. It's also not an option if you are in CA. It just ticked over to 90k miles. I unfortunately have a 45 minute commute to work every day on the highway and I have to put a lot of miles on it.
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Aug 17, 2017 16:05
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2006 - Mercury - Grand Marquis LS I am trying to disconnect the throttle position sensor connector from the accelerator pedal; I pull the red latch back on the connector but the connector is still secure on the pedal and doesn't budge at all. Am I missing another mechanism that secures the connector? I admit I am holding back somewhat when I try to pull it, as prior automotive issues have made me apprehensive when it comes to approaching this. (I can post pictures of the connector if need be)
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Aug 17, 2017 19:07
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BetterToRuleInHell posted:2006 - Mercury - Grand Marquis LS Post a picture - but have you tried wiggling it? Undo the red snap and then wiggle the two halves against each other if possible.
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Aug 17, 2017 19:14
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Astonishing Wang posted:Post a picture - but have you tried wiggling it? Undo the red snap and then wiggle the two halves against each other if possible.  Best shot I could get e: the red mechanism is the default position. I can slide it up but it doesn't seem to make a difference, the connector is still firmly in place BetterToRuleInHell fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Aug 17, 2017 |
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Aug 17, 2017 19:21
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I have a (hopefully) basic question on heat shielding material used in my 2017 Audi A4 (B9). I've found that my heat shield (or sound dampening material) between the engine and cabin is a different type than other owners I've talked to as well as pictures online; mine if a black foam felt-like material, where every other vehicle I've seen has a silver reflective material. Do both serve the same function and can be chalked up to different production plants/times/whatever? For reference, my car:  And everyone else: 
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Aug 17, 2017 19:50
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1973 Chevy C10- 350 v8: Had the truck for roughly two years and primarily use it for carrying loads, drive maybe once a week and put 500 miles during that time. Odometer probably rolled over, likely 170k, haven't made my way through the glovebox to find it's true mileage. Flushed the coolant, backflushed, cleared out gallons of reddish-brown (what I guess is dexcool- their old coolant from what I can find) crap until it ran clear, ran a descaler, repeated twice. After this my thermostat stopped opening, the connection showed 200 or so on an IR thermometer, the thermostat opens when boiled, but leaving it in drives the temperature up like mad. Since then I've been running without, but can't figure out why the thermostat won't work while it's in there. Quite possible I missed something, but searching through the service manual and online resources isn't really coming up for me.
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Aug 17, 2017 20:28
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Is there a reason not just to replace it? They're pretty cheap, so it's not worth fooling with.
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Aug 17, 2017 20:31
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PageMaster posted:I have a (hopefully) basic question on heat shielding material used in my 2017 Audi A4 (B9). I've found that my heat shield (or sound dampening material) between the engine and cabin is a different type than other owners I've talked to as well as pictures online; mine if a black foam felt-like material, where every other vehicle I've seen has a silver reflective material. Do both serve the same function and can be chalked up to different production plants/times/whatever? For example, that looks like a 2.0 TFSI engine, and I believe there are two versions, one of which has about 30% more power than the other. Selious posted:1973 Chevy C10- 350 v8: Had the truck for roughly two years and primarily use it for carrying loads, drive maybe once a week and put 500 miles during that time. Odometer probably rolled over, likely 170k, haven't made my way through the glovebox to find it's true mileage. Could the thermostat housing be deforming the 'stat when tightened down, and prevent it opening? Is it the right thermostat for that engine/truck?
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Aug 17, 2017 20:38
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Selious posted:Flushed the coolant, backflushed, cleared out gallons of reddish-brown (what I guess is dexcool- their old coolant from what I can find) crap until it ran clear, ran a descaler, repeated twice. Dexcool didn't exist until the '90s, so unless someone swapped it in for no good reason, that was probably just super loving filthy green coolant. Deteriorata posted:Is there a reason not just to replace it? They're pretty cheap, so it's not worth fooling with. This, though test any replacement before you install it - thermostats have high DOA rates. InitialDave posted:Did you put the thermostat in backwards, perhaps, so the actual functional part is on the "cool" side when it should be on the "hot" one? Could be this, or it could be you've dislodged some nasty poo poo somewhere that is blocking things. Have you pulled and inspected the water pump? That contaminant in your coolant came from somewhere, and it could very well be your water pump impeller in powdered form 
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Aug 17, 2017 20:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Dexcool didn't exist until the '90s, so unless someone swapped it in for no good reason, that was probably just super loving filthy green coolant. Hard to say on the coolant, my old service manual refers to some nasty old GM stuff and all the chevy forums are rife with complaints about the brown gunk. Could just be nastiness though. Did test the thermometer, even after removal it opens in boiling water, and with the above is pointing in the right direction and centered. Based on the marks on the gasket doesn't seem to have pinched. Don't have it near me, but type seems to be similar size/build of the one I took out. Not sure on water pump, I know it works from watching the fluid in the radiator(think that's how you check) while the engine is on and cap off, but I'd have to check if there is a record of when it was last changed.
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Aug 17, 2017 21:53
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I want to buy cheap tires for my BMW, as its going to to sit and do very little miles after they get changed. Do the cheap tires (ohtsu, achillies, whatever) ever go on sale at Discount Tire? Or only things like continentals/goodyears? Its a 2006 530xi wagon with 17"s, cheapest are sentry at $71 each, the ohtsu at $81 each US, install @19 each, works out to 410-450. In Canada, its Sumitomo HTR enhance for $149 each, or $130 each for the ohtsu FP7000 plus (Im in Canada but close to the border) TireRack has usually been more expensive for me after shipping and install, but im open for anything.
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Aug 17, 2017 22:30
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How long is it going to sit? Decent tires plus jackstands is probably a better bet if it's not parked for a long time.
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Aug 18, 2017 00:30
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Rust and stopleak will make green antifreeze look awful. I can't imagine someone swapping that thing over to dexcool.
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Aug 18, 2017 00:31
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