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That's either a fancy kitchen drawer knob, or the worlds teensiest weensiest little failed compressor wheel.
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Jan 26, 2014 05:44
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2012 Mustang V6 Premium. Spun #5 con-rod bearing while driving highway speeds. Being fixed under warranty as we speak. WTF?
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Jan 26, 2014 06:23
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thelightguy posted:
Isn't that a Super Beetle windshield? Someone replaced a lot of parts trying to make it look like a slightly older model. And without checking their fuel lines.
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Jan 26, 2014 07:01
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MrYenko posted:That's either a fancy kitchen drawer knob, or the worlds teensiest weensiest little failed compressor wheel. It's a water pump impeller for a motorbike. What looks like a parallel twin, maybe a honda? I don't know poo poo about vintage bikes.
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Jan 26, 2014 08:49
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thetechnoloser posted:2012 Mustang V6 Premium. Spun #5 con-rod bearing while driving highway speeds. Being fixed under warranty as we speak. WTF? I'm surprised they are not just R&R 'ing the entire engine. I din't think there were any dealerships around that still did engine work.
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Jan 26, 2014 10:22
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Citycop posted:I'm surprised they are not just R&R 'ing the entire engine. I din't think there were any dealerships around that still did engine work. Who says they aren't? Ford may require them to tear the old one down to validate the failure. Also, yeah, how does that just happen if the engine still has good oil pressure?
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Jan 26, 2014 15:25
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Citycop posted:I'm surprised they are not just R&R 'ing the entire engine. I din't think there were any dealerships around that still did engine work. Yeah, they had to do a tear-down. ^^^^^^^^ Engine still had good oil pressure according to gauges. No idiot lights, no codes, nothing. Developed some minor engine noises after a commute home one day (I do the DC commuting thing) and took it in to be told I was 2 quarts low--- and I check the oil every time I fill up! thetechnoloser fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 15:35
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thetechnoloser posted:Yeah, they had to do a tear-down. Aren't there supposed to be notches or galley holes in the bearing to admit / remove oil?
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Jan 26, 2014 17:19
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On mains yes, never seen them on rods though, or I've forgotten them.
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Jan 26, 2014 17:36
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They better r&r the whole engine. It would be really lovely of them to just throw some bearings in it. I would raise absolute hell.
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Jan 26, 2014 18:05
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DrPain posted:They better r&r the whole engine. It would be really lovely of them to just throw some bearings in it. I would raise absolute hell. They are. Had to do a tear-down to verify failure for Ford Corporate to cover it under Powertrain. Bonus pics of empty engine bay, new crankshaft waiting for install, and removed block!    and me baby during better days: 
thetechnoloser fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 19:15
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kastein posted:I see the problem, someone appears to have installed the steering column on the wrong side of the vehicle They're a good strong diff, especially in an XJ, but they're far from indestructible. My buddy has blown 2 of them, one behind a 3.8/C5 in a Fox and one behind a 302/M5OD in a Bricknose Bronco. Both were dailies at time of failure and he doesn't beat on his dailies (though the Mustang has since turned into a full-on trailered drag car). The best thing about the 8.8 though is a rebuild is about a 2-beer job for anyone who's been inside any diff before and parts are a dime a dozen even for posi bits.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:31
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Slavvy posted:It's a water pump impeller for a motorbike. What looks like a parallel twin, maybe a honda? I don't know poo poo about vintage bikes. Cold side wheel from a 1.8 turbo beetle. PO said he did deals on the turbo - found the nut sitting at the bottom of the casting. EIDT: the bike in the background is an 81 CB650. God do I hate that bike.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:50
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I love how the MDPS ecu is on the rack under the engine. Ford are past masters at finding ways of doing easy, common things in a loving retarded way I swear to god. DefaultPeanut posted:Cold side wheel from a 1.8 turbo beetle. PO said he did deals on the turbo - found the nut sitting at the bottom of the casting. Shows what the gently caress I know! 
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Jan 26, 2014 21:34
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Slavvy posted:I love how the MDPS ecu is on the rack under the engine. Ford are past masters at finding ways of doing easy, common things in a loving retarded way I swear to god. Maybe the same people who decided to stick the distributor/ignition module for Cavaliers on the under-loving-side of the car jumped to Ford?
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Jan 26, 2014 22:47
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Dr.Smasher posted:Maybe the same people who decided to stick the distributor/ignition module for Cavaliers on the under-loving-side of the car jumped to Ford? Or maybe the ones who decided you need to pull the front-passenger wheel to change the alternator on a Saturn SL?
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Jan 26, 2014 22:55
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thetechnoloser posted:Or maybe the ones who decided you need to pull the front-passenger wheel to change the alternator on a Saturn SL? Isn't pulling a wheel pretty much accepted as part of the job when doing anything accessory/belt related on most FWD cars though? It's not like they can put the alternator between the motor and subframe or anything.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:29
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Most FWD cars, yes. It's either a wheel off or up above your head if you have a hoist. On many you even have to remove the engine mount, it's just the price of doing business on FWD.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:52
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Try an alternator on an evo 7-9. Have to pull the drat halfshaft out too.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:53
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Slavvy posted:I love how the MDPS ecu is on the rack under the engine. There is a special place in hell for that engineering team.
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Jan 27, 2014 00:00
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Mazda Tribute alternator. all I'm gonna say. Oh yeah, 90s LT1 distributors mounted under the god drat water pump E: ^Optispark II cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 00:13
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cursedshitbox posted:Mazda Tribute alternator. all I'm gonna say. How about toyota V8 starters 
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Jan 27, 2014 00:17
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Powershift posted:How about toyota V8 starters The Cadillac Northstar is quite a doozy as well:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBtpFmY41eU
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Jan 27, 2014 00:21
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I still remember jacking one corner of the body off the frame to replace the alternator on my sister's Dodge Caravan.
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Jan 27, 2014 00:23
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cursedshitbox posted:Oh yeah, 90s LT1 distributors mounted under the god drat water pump But at least Optisparks had a breather hole, so They got slightly better when they went to an engine-vacuum connected vent in '95, but the best thing to do with an gen II at this point is to replace it with a gen III/IV, anyway...
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Jan 27, 2014 00:26
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ID-ing the bad cell in my battery was easier than I expected it to be:
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Jan 27, 2014 00:48
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Powershift posted:How about toyota V8 starters] Yeah, but they normally outlive everything else on those engines. I do, however, love that a 1UZ starter replacement was a 'punishment' in LeMons a few years back.
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Jan 27, 2014 01:51
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Dr.Smasher posted:Maybe the same people who decided to stick the distributor/ignition module for Cavaliers on the under-loving-side of the car jumped to Ford? Have you ever seen what it takes to do major work on the ford 6.0 diesel trucks? Step one: remove cab from frame.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:44
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Have you ever seen what it takes to do major work on the ford 6.0 diesel trucks? Step one: remove cab from frame. That's nothing more than one step worse than the similar body style F150s that came out several years prior. 1/3 of the motor is jammed into a "dent" int he firewall, making access absolutely brutal. To be fair "remove cab from frame" was only part of a service procedure where they were dealing with the multitude of recalls on that piece of poo poo motor all at once. Most individual jobs are more quickly accomplished by other means, like yanking motor mounts and lowering a bit for working over top, etc.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:46
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Have you ever seen what it takes to do major work on the ford 6.0 diesel trucks? Step one: remove cab from frame. I'm not sure if this is true or not (any Toyota mechanics can confirm/deny) but I've read that for changing the water pump on a Toyota Venza crossover wagon thing, the first step is 'prepare engine for removal'
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Jan 27, 2014 04:54
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It's exaggerating to say you need to take the motor out, but you need to manipulate the engine up and down with some of the mounts removed to get the pump out. I have a mate who works for an Audi dealership. There is a bulletin on a3's with a failed brake booster and step 1 really is remove engine. Doing a cambelt on a box-shape diesel kia sportage can technically be accomplished with the engine in the car, but I timed myself doing it either way and it is, in fact, faster if you unbolt the front subframe and lift the body off the subframe-engine-trans unit. The auto transmission is straight-up not removable without taking out the subframe, and this is similar to a lot of vehicles. Basically anything modern, FWD and v6 if you're doing a blown engine, the subframe is coming out because it's easier to do that than pull the motor out the top.
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Jan 27, 2014 05:32
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Slavvy posted:It's exaggerating to say you need to take the motor out, but you need to manipulate the engine up and down with some of the mounts removed to get the pump out. This also goes for KA24DE equipped Altimas/Bluebirds. For both the water pump and the idler pulley.
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Jan 27, 2014 09:56
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 Preshift check sheet says this was greased about 2 hours before failure was discovered.
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Jan 28, 2014 12:25
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Cakefool posted:
Seems like the grease went on vacation. Was the fitting blocked making folks think they were greasing?
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Jan 28, 2014 12:58
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Id say that the only thing that got greased was the checklist.
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Jan 28, 2014 15:07
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tater_salad posted:Seems like the grease went on vacation. Was the fitting blocked making folks think they were greasing? There should be a grease nipple on the top of the block, it's greased with a hand gun so... MrYenko posted:Id say that the only thing that got greased was the checklist. Bingo.
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Jan 28, 2014 15:58
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Powershift posted:How about toyota V8 starters I pussed out on this job and left it up to a mechanic to do. Who then somehow hosed up my air conditioning in the process.  Speaking of failures, here's one:    Bet that made a glorious noise when it happened.
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Jan 29, 2014 18:34
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It's not broken, it's just excited.
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Jan 29, 2014 18:35
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I knew a guy who had the same thing happen on the same type of truck. He was running it lowered though and the shaft kept rubbing on something underneath until it gave.
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Jan 29, 2014 20:12
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I should add that this was on an iced-up overpass. Some time later, I saw another pickup climb up the same approach in 4-Lo (or 4-Hi?), rear axle tramping all the way up the hill. Maybe this guy busted his drive shaft that way?
90s Solo Cup fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jan 29, 2014 |
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Jan 29, 2014 20:25
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