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skipdogg posted:Can anyone recommend an accurate tire air pressure gauge that doesn't cost a fortune? I've got 4 different tire gauges that all are off to some degree. I bought some digital ones from Amazon and they seem alright, but they're a bit off from the TPMS sensors in the car. I'm not sure how accurate those are, (I can read them in increments of .2 psi). I use an analog Joe's Racing Gauge. I'm a fan. Never compared its accuracy to other meters, but it feels well built and is well reviewed. $22 on Amazon.
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Apr 28, 2017 03:05
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ColdPie posted:I use an analog Joe's Racing Gauge. I'm a fan. Never compared its accuracy to other meters, but it feels well built and is well reviewed. $22 on Amazon. I have the same one, and I love it. It has a bleed valve button which is super useful, and the rubber shock-housing has held up to a lot of toss-it-in-the-console abuse offroading while airing up/down etc.
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Apr 28, 2017 03:46
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I like Harbor Freight's analog gauge: http://www.harborfreight.com/tire-gauge-with-flex-hose-92955.html Cheap enough to toss in the car and not care what happens to it. Seems to be accurate in my limited use. I have never had luck with any digital gauge--they all die or become wildly inaccurate. I'm not sure I'd want to compare to TPMS measured values either, AFAIK they aren't necessarily the most accurate measures of pressure. For most cars they're just a cheap 'is the tire totally flat?' indicator. Whether they can actually tell you if your tire is 30 vs 31 lbs. is highly questionable in my mind. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 03:55
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BraveUlysses posted:I recently picked up a Ryobi 18v cordless trimmer with auto feed and it's fantastic. Definitely enough juice to do my modest yard. The Royal Nonesuch posted:I have the same one, and I love it. It has a bleed valve button which is super useful, and the rubber shock-housing has held up to a lot of toss-it-in-the-console abuse offroading while airing up/down etc.
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Apr 28, 2017 04:00
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I done hosed up. I was given a nice old proper schookum socket set and stuck it in a plastic tool box I had laying around. 6 months later I go to find it's been sitting in a puddle and is fully submerged. I presume the ratchet is borked but what can I do? I figured a bath in some penetrating oil for starts? In the U.K. so specific fluid recommendations are probably not available here :/
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Apr 28, 2017 10:04
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thegasman2000 posted:I done hosed up. Photo? 3in1 oil might do the trick. Or you might have to disassemble the ratchet and wire brush out the rust.
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Apr 28, 2017 10:15
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thegasman2000 posted:I done hosed up. But I'd dismantle is as Spog suggested, only way to really deal with it.
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Apr 28, 2017 10:35
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Some brands/models offer ratchet rebuild sets.
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Apr 28, 2017 11:13
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How bad is the rust? I've cleaned a bunch of super rusty tools by just soaking them in white vinegar for a day or two. The rust just falls right off. I'd definitely disassemble it fully first though
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Apr 28, 2017 15:42
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I'd just buy a new ratchet. Unless it's like a really high quality 3/4" or something fancy ratchet chances are it's no better than something you pick up off the shelf these days. Some of the newer ratchets made out of composites and with 72-100+ teeth are pretty darn amazing. The sockets should be fine to keep.
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Apr 28, 2017 16:23
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http://imgur.com/WgnhuLE It's a hand me down so I kinda want to keep it as is. Partners grandad died and left it to me. He kept it from rattling with on old soiled vest under the lid 
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Apr 28, 2017 17:40
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I'd just keep it as is, the rust gives it a nice patina and adds to the story of it. Pick up any $20 socket set for actual use, they're comparable to what you have there. Besides those are 12-pt sockets which you really don't want to use anyways (they just round off bolts).
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Apr 28, 2017 17:44
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It's got weird sludge at the bottom of all the inserts so something is gross in there. http://imgur.com/khqHn3H http://imgur.com/SwCWsiK http://imgur.com/YQjCLnA
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Apr 28, 2017 17:46
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Here you go, have my super-secret, 'just for you' Halfords coupon for your really good sets that will compliment your classic set:  I bet most of that rust will disappear with a good wash and rub with a cloth. EDIT: I bet if you leave that in a bucket of old motor oil over night and use a handful of old vests to dry it off, the majority of that crap will come off and you'll have something nice to sit on the shelf. spog fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 17:50
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Yeah, while the history is nice and all, yesteryear's middle tier sockets sets are at best at par with modern economy stuff. Plus, 12-points. Feel free to fix it up, but know that it'll be for nostalgia mostly.
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Apr 28, 2017 18:05
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mod sassinator posted:I'd just keep it as is, the rust gives it a nice patina and adds to the story of it. Pick up any $20 socket set for actual use, they're comparable to what you have there. Besides those are 12-pt sockets which you really don't want to use anyways (they just round off bolts). I don't have trouble with 12 point sockets rounding off bolts. I also don't live in the rust belt, so that could cause your mileage to vary.
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Apr 28, 2017 18:09
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Soak that in evaporust and I bet it looks better than new.
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Apr 28, 2017 19:12
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Thegasman2000, my vote is to clean it up so it looks nice and keep it as a period set to carry in a classic car etc, and get one of the Halfords sets to actually use.EightBit posted:I don't have trouble with 12 point sockets rounding off bolts. I also don't live in the rust belt, so that could cause your mileage to vary.
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Apr 28, 2017 20:04
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I kind of don’t get why 12‐point sockets come in sets with ratchets. But they do occasionally come in useful with a bolt that doesn’t quite fit the nominal profile due to rust or whatever.
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Apr 29, 2017 01:55
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InitialDave posted:I think a fastener that's exactly right to be rounded off with a good 12pt, but not by a 6pt, is a rare beast indeed. My experiece is they're either fine with both, or they're hosed however you look at it. This has been my experience too. In Ohio, the snow-rain-snow rustbelt motherland, it's rare that a 6pt makes any difference. If a fastener really IS hosed, 12pt grips better anyways. All my old USA Craftsman sockets are 12pt, all my new Grey Pneumatics are 6 and they're completely interchangeable in terms of rounding.
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Apr 29, 2017 03:50
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Platystemon posted:I kind of don’t get why 12‐point sockets come in sets with ratchets. The head bolts on Jeep 4.0s have 12 point heads. Most bolts are plain hexagons, and for most of them the torque rating isn't high enough to worry about which socket you are using (6 or 12). When you need to put 110ft-lbs on a relatively small head, then 6 point bolts don't really work. Most of my sockets are 12 point, and I have never felt that I was about to round off a bold (rather, there have been a few where I felt that shearing off the head was close). But, my mileage my vary wildly compared to average goons, as I make  amounts of money and my tools reflect that.
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Apr 29, 2017 04:26
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EightBit posted:The head bolts on Jeep 4.0s have 12 point heads. Most bolts are plain hexagons, and for most of them the torque rating isn't high enough to worry about which socket you are using (6 or 12). When you need to put 110ft-lbs on a relatively small head, then 6 point bolts don't really work. Most of my sockets are 12 point, and I have never felt that I was about to round off a bold (rather, there have been a few where I felt that shearing off the head was close). When I had the head rebuilt on my '88 4.0, the (almost certainly OEM) headbolts were 1/2" 6pt and half of them had extended threads up past the bolt head, requiring a deep socket. A standard 1/2" drive 1/2" 6pt deep socket removed them all easily. Finding a replacement bolt set turned out to be a bit tricky, and I ended up with a set for a older 4.2 or something that was a good fit. They were 1/2" 12pt (half w/ extended threads again), and I went to hardware/autoparts stores all over and couldn't find a 12pt deep socket that would fit over the extended-thread bolts. All of the sockets had these really narrow internal necks that wouldn't accommodate the longer bolts. Part-desk jockeys shrugged their shoulders, and I didn't even bother asking at Home Depot/OSH/etc. Online searches weren't turning up anything with definitive internal measurements and I was getting pretty puzzled. I drove around for like a week trying to find one. Finally the lightbulb went on, and I remembered there was one of those rummage-bin/find-your-own rusty tool booths at the local swapmeet. I went down there on a Sunday with one of the new headbolts, and after thirty minutes of rattling around in their bins I finally found an older Craftsman 3/8" drive 1/2" 12pt deep sockets that fit the loving longbolt. It has it's own special place in my toolbox, held in place by it's own special magnet so it doesn't get lost.
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Apr 29, 2017 05:12
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Sometimes Satan lends a hand and you get bolts that have imperial heads but metric threads.
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Apr 29, 2017 05:23
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EightBit posted:The head bolts on Jeep 4.0s have 12 point heads. Most bolts are plain hexagons, and for most of them the torque rating isn't high enough to worry about which socket you are using (6 or 12). When you need to put 110ft-lbs on a relatively small head, then 6 point bolts don't really work. Most of my sockets are 12 point, and I have never felt that I was about to round off a bold (rather, there have been a few where I felt that shearing off the head was close). This post makes little sense to someone who deals with rust. And if you think a twelve or six point makes the difference when torquing a small bolt then you need to lay off drugs for a while and turn a wrench in the rust belt. Six points are less likely to round off a rusted bolt. But you make goon money so you must know everything. Edit: and most of my tools are snap on 6 point which are designed to grab the flats of the head and not the points. But I'm just some poor goon and we are so poor we know nothing.
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Apr 29, 2017 17:32
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EightBit posted:But, my mileage my vary wildly compared to average goons, as I make  Let's see your tools.
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Apr 29, 2017 17:48
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EVERYWHERE 
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I'm expecting 4th dimensional tools that extend into time, creating future cones where the bolt was never fastened in the first place.
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Apr 29, 2017 17:53
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My wrenches lightly caress bolts and talk them into unscrewing themselves naturally. It's amazing.
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Apr 29, 2017 18:55
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Maybe he meant the opposite of the normal use of that emote? It's a weird context to just drop in there how well-off you are.
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Apr 29, 2017 19:08
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What you're missing in the debate is that, on a given thread size, a 12pt head will be one size down from a hex head in most designs, so the higher torque capacity does serve a purpose. Also, if you have to deal with rusty hex head fasteners on the regular, buy a set of Irwin "Bolt-Grip" sockets.
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Apr 29, 2017 21:11
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I need a tire rack. The wall mount ones seem like a terrible idea because every example I've seen has the rack mounted high where it would be a pain in the rear end to get them there with the back problems I have. Does anyone make a cart on wheels I could roll around? Needs to hold 8 tires. I saw this but the ratings are meh. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JIQJ2O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_alObzbFEA00Q8
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May 1, 2017 01:36
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um excuse me posted:I saw this but the ratings are meh. A few lengths of wood or old box section and some cheap castors to make your own is probably the best option.
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May 1, 2017 01:43
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What's the best thing to use to push a caliper cylinder back in? I did it today with a c-clamp and one of the old pads, but that's pretty cumbersome. Especially because I can never find my big clamps. Maybe I'm just salty that I had a perfectly good set of these that I left behind instead of grabbing like I had wanted to.
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May 1, 2017 02:26
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A pad spreader. Lisle makes several, part numbers 29100, 24300 and 24400. Pick your flavor.
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May 1, 2017 02:28
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I've got the 24400, and it works well for what it is. I also grabbed the Astro 78618 for the wind-in caliper pistons, and it has a plate to push in regular pistons as well. It'll push the end of the piston instead of the bottom of the cup, so it works better most of the time. It's only $32 from Amazon, vs $10 for the Lisle, so it might be worth it if you do a lot of brake work.
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May 1, 2017 02:48
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EightBit posted:
I thought that when you made kinda money, you metamorphosed into the tool, since other people start doing the work for you.
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May 1, 2017 12:33
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InitialDave posted:, buy a set of Irwin "Bolt-Grip" sockets. I've ended up using those bolt grip sockets in some unusual ways. They have a large hex on them for a wrench, and also a square for a 3/8 ratchet. Sometimes I use them upside-down as giant allen head drivers.
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May 1, 2017 15:32
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QuarkMartial posted:What's the best thing to use to push a caliper cylinder back in? I crack the bleeder screw and push them by hand. After scoring a piston against the bore one time, I decided it's not worth it to try to force anything.
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May 1, 2017 23:42
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Oh, canadian tire. Bought a new 20v li-ion mastercraft cordless impact. Brought it home, opened it up and the battery had a faint electrical burning smell. Sometimes I'm not sure why I bother.
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May 2, 2017 01:44
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You buy poo poo at Hoser Freight, you take your chances.
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May 2, 2017 02:42
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Big Taint posted:You buy poo poo at Hoser Freight, you take your chances.  I can't believe I've never heard that before, that's amazing
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May 2, 2017 04:29
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