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Today, I jacked the front end of the bus up, and tried to tighten the steering box adjustment screw. However, I learned that if I tightened it up too much, it pushed the whole pitman arm out from the box  . So it would go in cycles of tight-loose-tight-loose as I screwed it in.I took reference photos, and tried to loosen it up to where it was originally, and got it on the "tight" end of where it was. I have no idea of what's going on.
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Apr 16, 2017 10:51
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 11:51 |
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A bit of light crossposting from the subaru thread. It came to my attention about a week ago that my WRX was not making as much boost as it should be. PO's gaudy boost gauge told me I was only getting 0.5 bar, what the Japanese hobbyists like to call '0.5 disease'. After a bit of research I decided to check the cheapest solution first and squeezed along the boost bleed vacuum lines looking for the restrictor or an absence thereof and what do you know, it was missing. Really what should have immediately tipped me that something was wrong was one of the vacuum lines was zip-tied on.   (Also pictured, PO's gaudy blue grounding kit and the yellowing aquarium piping to the boost gauge) The restrictor piece was on back-order at the dealer though (and is curiously called an 'orifice' in the Japanese literature) so I had to wait until today to pick it up. In the mean time I got some new long nose pliers (or 'radio pinchers' as JIS specifies them according to the label) because my old cheap ones rusted shut, and I also saved some JIS disposable chopsticks from a trip to the convenience store.    Missing restrictor in the top left of the bag. A bit of chopstick poking and a warm up later I took it out to the back roads to see if it worked. The boost comes on a lot stronger now and goes all the way up to 0.8 bar. Not a bad result for a $2 fix. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Apr 16, 2017 |
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Apr 16, 2017 12:52
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Cheap fixes are the best. Today I replaced the discs and pads on the back end of the car. I still need to bleed the fronts due to a hose replacement before bedding in the rears.
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Apr 16, 2017 14:02
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Washed it. 
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Apr 16, 2017 14:04
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DropShadow posted:Washed it. DropShadow nice picture I keep thinking about our roof rack / Thule (?) conversation from a long while back. I'm in need of one. I've got an 07 CTS-V. What are my options, and should I look for something new or is there a website that has some used ones for sale?
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Apr 17, 2017 01:27
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Elsa posted:DropShadow nice picture I personally prefer Thule stuff, but I'm also part of an annual event that is sponsored by Thule. That said, I'd still only buy their stuff if I weren't. I have owned Yakima racks, and the newest Thule gear feels more solid and stable. Most places are going to have the same prices no matter where you buy from. If you have an REI near you, become a member and wait for one of the 20% off sales. Otherwise, Craigslists are always chock full of used rack gear. Figure out what specific parts you need for your car (crossbars, foot kit, etc.), and then start searching. You're bound to find at least some parts of what you need for less than new.
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Apr 17, 2017 03:51
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DropShadow posted:I personally prefer Thule stuff, but I'm also part of an annual event that is sponsored by Thule. That said, I'd still only buy their stuff if I weren't. I have owned Yakima racks, and the newest Thule gear feels more solid and stable. Most places are going to have the same prices no matter where you buy from. If you have an REI near you, become a member and wait for one of the 20% off sales. Otherwise, Craigslists are always chock full of used rack gear. Figure out what specific parts you need for your car (crossbars, foot kit, etc.), and then start searching. You're bound to find at least some parts of what you need for less than new. Sweeet. Thanks. Are there different mounting systems, and are some better than others? I have a plastic strip running along the unibody and roof panel. I've also seen brackets that seem to hook into the door jambs. Should I avoid any of the mounting designs?
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Apr 17, 2017 04:14
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Built a little stand for my new ARB compressor to mount onto. This is the 3rd ARB compressor I've had- First one was the original one that after god knows how long wore the motor out in my old red hilux, that was replaced with the new high output model, which was running the lockers in the hilux, got drowned once, did hundreds of hours inflating tyres out bush and around the farm, got ripped out of the hilux, dropped into the cruiser, drowned AGAIN, broke a crankshaft bolt, got repaired, did heaps and heaps of work and finally after about 10 years and being asked to run the lockers broke the crank bolt AGAIN, but this time the bore on the piston was stuffed and the motor was full of chunks of brushes and the flywheel was scored quite badly from two blowups, so I got my moneys worth out of it. The new stand helps lift the compressor up a bit higher out of the bottom of the wheel arch to aid cooling and keep it above the flood line and also gives me somewhere to mount the wireless remote module for the Warn winch I picked up for a steal at an ARB garage sale   My only complaint is that ARB dont use a stainless steel pressure switch so they tend to corrode if you have em mounted downwards where moisture can pool. Im going to have to work out a better mounting solution for that eventually.
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Apr 17, 2017 12:48
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Last night on my way home on the interstate, while climbing the mountain that has been a part of my commute for years, I went to pass a car and mid-pass my engine started missing and bucking, and I lost a lot of power. Today I did a compression test, after checking the ignition coils. RIP Cylinder #3 
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Apr 17, 2017 22:00
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In the last few days, I installed a Cobb AP + 93 octane stage 1 map, weighted sphere-style shift knob, and a system update and usb hub that allows me to use apple carplay on my FiST. Really happy with all of it 
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Apr 17, 2017 23:05
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og6vk5W3u1c Attempted to get the s2000 out of winter hibernation & give it a valve adjustment. Most successful part was taking off the cover. During the post adjustment idling I noticed fuel dripping from the regulator. Then during the post regulator replacement idling I noticed a tapping getting louder & louder. Yea, I forgot to torque an adjuster.  Some of the exhaust valves were beyond tight, smaller clearance than the smallest feeler gauge I have. And some of the intake valves were way loose, more than one feeler gauge looser than spec. So, that could've gone better. And the valve adjustment needs to be done with the motor _totally_ cold, so it needs to sit overnight before I tackle it again. 
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Apr 18, 2017 04:31
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Get that loving ice out of your whisky you heathen I kid, drink your whisky however makes you happy
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Apr 18, 2017 08:22
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whisky straight up, with water, with soda, or with ice, all perfectly acceptable. no loving coca-cola.
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Apr 18, 2017 09:00
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Sagebrush posted:no loving coca-cola. Mixers are fine where the number of malts is > 1.
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Apr 18, 2017 13:15
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If I pay for the whiskey, im going to drink it however the hell takes my fancy that day. I copped a heap of flack once for mixing an 18yr old glenfidich with dry ginger ale. gently caress off, its my scotch, and I feel like a scotch and dry today. A very fancy one, but still. If someone ELSE offers you THEIR whiskey and you mix it when it should be enjoyed neat, then you deserve a kick in the dick.
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Apr 18, 2017 13:21
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GrantC posted:some of the intake valves were way loose, more than one feeler gauge looser than spec. Replace your valve hats if yours are affected by the cracking issue. I found 8 of mine with cracks, 3 severe, at 75k miles.
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Apr 18, 2017 14:00
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Terrible Robot posted:RIP Cylinder #3
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Apr 18, 2017 15:24
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ExecuDork posted:What's your plan now? I've never dealt with a failed cylinder, so I don't know how big this problem is. Can you replace parts (valves? rings? piston head?) or are you shopping for a new ride? My leakdown tester is still packed up in a box (yay moving) so I don't know if it's a valve or the piston has a hole. I disconnected the fuel injector for that cylinder and will be limping it to work on 4 (it's a 5 cylinder engine) for the next week or two until I can get my 245 roadworthy enough to daily drive and then I'll buy a low mileage engine from the junkyard and drop into the C70. The current engine has 221k miles on it so I'm not going to go through the trouble of rebuilding just the head or putting a junkyard head on it. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Apr 18, 2017 |
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Apr 18, 2017 16:46
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GrantC posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og6vk5W3u1c I need to do mine too
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Apr 19, 2017 14:45
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Nodoze posted:I need to do mine too Just get to it! I was putting it off for years, but it's not hard/scary at all. I just kept going around & around 1->3->4->2->... until I was confident in how they were all adjusted (and that they were all torqued). Purring away after it was all done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u79iJEGEEuU (I knew that whisky chat was going to be the most contentious).
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Apr 19, 2017 18:12
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Finally caved and swapped my center console after procrastinating for 2 years about sourcing parts.
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Apr 20, 2017 00:15
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Replaced both serpentine belts on the '96 Eclipse beater that I bought for my stepson. Who the gently caress designs this poo poo? At least I have the 420A engine that only has two belts instead of the three of the 4G6* engines. There's juust enough clearance to squeeze the belts on the crank side and power steering pump side if you try really hard. I've already done brakes, axles, replaced the headlights, and had to replace the steering knuckle after the 40 ton press wouldn't dislodge the LH axle from it after a week soaking in an ATF/acetone mix. I keep repeating, "It was only $700..." Of course, I bought it from a pack of methheads. The Monster sticker is a tell-tale. There's also one that says "Strung like a horse" and I don't even want to know what that means.   This thing is rolling probable cause. I wonder why the brakes don't work good? I had to replace the caliper as well as the rotor. Yes, there is no brake pad in there. The caliper was acting as the friction material, and it wasn't much good at it.  
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Apr 20, 2017 02:34
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Jesus Christ those 'brakes'. And here I thought I might be being a little too proactive with ordering two new calipers and wheel cylinders for the Tracker even thought they seem fine, but they are going on 25+ years old. In other news I just bought this  1983 Daihatsu Hijet with 12000 miles on it. Look at the thing, i just couldn't pass it up.
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Apr 20, 2017 03:14
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KakerMix posted:
You have such good taste in cars. Those little vans are adorable and I wish they would have caught on in America. A local muffler shop has a Cushman kei van. Its beautiful.
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Apr 20, 2017 03:46
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KakerMix posted:In other news I just bought this It's friggin adorable!
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Apr 20, 2017 04:16
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KakerMix posted:Jesus Christ those 'brakes'. And here I thought I might be being a little too proactive with ordering two new calipers and wheel cylinders for the Tracker even thought they seem fine, but they are going on 25+ years old. 
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Apr 20, 2017 04:18
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KakerMix posted:Jesus Christ those 'brakes'. And here I thought I might be being a little too proactive with ordering two new calipers and wheel cylinders for the Tracker even thought they seem fine, but they are going on 25+ years old. Dude.
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Apr 20, 2017 04:21
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That's amazing
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Apr 20, 2017 04:32
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Thanks, and yeah like, it isn't about taste so much as it's a 1983 kei van from before Japan was cool. Since I'm working with an import house in Japan ( https://www.japancardirect.com/ if you are curious or maybe want to get something for yourself, tell Scott and Matt that Devin sent you ) it's still actually in Japan. I won't have for another month and a half probably but I should be getting a bunch more pictures soon.
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Apr 20, 2017 04:42
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You are a bad man! https://auc.japancardirect.com/aj-2eGlGsvqWJDlp83.htm AWD turbo wagon... soon Zultan soon.
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Apr 20, 2017 12:51
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wallaka posted:I wonder why the brakes don't work good? I had to replace the caliper as well as the rotor. Yes, there is no brake pad in there. The caliper was acting as the friction material, and it wasn't much good at it. Painting the wheels and that door handle would probably knock the heat score on this poor turd down a few notches.
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Apr 21, 2017 04:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo. It's almost good that you got this car instead of someone who would have handed it to their kid without checking it out first. I've done some hack bodywork and beaten the RF fender to reasonably straight, but restoring the stock exhaust from arrest-me fart cannon status is the top priority. There's enough iron oxide deposits on that RF wheel that it'll be difficult to paint over.
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Apr 21, 2017 05:21
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Got the lift bolted down and much of my stuff moved. We still need to put up work benches and shelves, but it's getting there! Also, the obligatory coffee: 
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Apr 23, 2017 08:55
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I washed my car and cleaned my JDM POWER DUCT.
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Apr 23, 2017 20:57
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Larrymer posted:I washed my car and cleaned my JDM POWER DUCT. Why shouldn't you pull out the oil gauge (dipstick?) while filling the oil?
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Apr 24, 2017 05:28
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I dunno man, you don't question the POWER DUCT. (yes dipstick, no other gauge. And maybe because the oil cap and dipstick are on the same bank near each other so some oil could leak out through the dipstick hole, however unlikely...?)
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Apr 24, 2017 12:37
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It's probably a poor translation that doesn't mean anything close to what it says in English...
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Apr 24, 2017 12:59
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chrisgt posted:It's probably a poor translation that doesn't mean anything close to what it says in English... This seems to be valid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eDz1EkIB0Q&t=64s
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Apr 24, 2017 13:07
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chrisgt posted:It's probably a poor translation that doesn't mean anything close to what it says in English... On this occasion it is a completely on point translation that says near enough exactly the same as what it says in English. BigPaddy posted:This seems to be valid RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Apr 24, 2017 |
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Apr 24, 2017 14:00
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 11:51 |
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It got a car cover. I found a importer willing to import anything I send them a OEM part number for. So far it's worked on hatch struts, brake caliper brackets, and this car cover.
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Apr 24, 2017 21:45
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